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bkuhr

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Everything posted by bkuhr

  1. bkuhr
    Now that I decided to not try to dim LEDs and just leave them bright for markers and flasher, I started working on the demand, autocancel circuit. This required in depth study of MC schematic to figure out how to interface new circut with MC. My plan was to remove existing MC flashers, and tap new circuit into those connectors without damaging any stock MC wiring. Easier said than done! Attached PDF shows my best effort. But requires me to seperate the wiring at the hazard switch and the turn switch from stock MC wiring. I can do this at in harness connectors, but not sure if replacement MOLEX connectors are available in both male and female to create jumper harnesses to be installed between existing connectors and avoid any stock wire cutting. On attached PDF I reduced stock wiring schematic to just affected wiring involved with stock wiring to left of all MC components. To the far right are necessary inputs for new circuit. Does anybody have a source for molex connectors, and know how to identify specific connector types/parts numbers required to match existing connectors on MC? Does anybody have any suggestions to modify my best effort pdf, preferable to avoid above need to modify stock wiring? Questions/comments/suggestions welcome Brian
  2. bkuhr
    paypal sent thanks gary
  3. bkuhr
    item #8 of the following thread is some old readings I took of direct air pressure on top of cylinders minus heads to test suspect rings. Turns out I had bent valve. The bad cylinder had bad ignition problems and had not fired in a long time, and PO had abused MC with dead cyl for long time. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46640
  4. bkuhr
    Great suggestions, keep em comming Brian
  5. bkuhr
    Gary, thanks for sharing. Wow, lot of relays. Not sure if you want critque or not, if not sorry-don't means to offend. Just a couple of notes I see you call for time delay on the LED relays, planning to use special purpose relays or design descrete delays at each relay? Would recommend simple RC circuit on each coil to delay the following relay from activating, then maybe another contact assembly in each relay to deactivate the previous relay. I also see you are calling for +5v source for your LEDs. As you may be aware LEDs have certain operationing specs that must be met to light. Industry standard LEDs, both panel indicator and high output require 20mA to light. Some can operate up to 50mA with limited duty cycles, but below 20mA most will not light at all or only dimmly. They also have a Forward Voltage rating simular to the .6V drop seen on a standard diode. Due to different chemicals required to make different colors, most have different FV ratings in the 2.0-3.5v range.This means each LED will drop as example 2.0v in the 20mA circuit. Standard resistor for 2.0v-2.2v LEDs in a 12v circuit is 470 ohms. If all LEDs in your chevron are in parallel, your circuit will require about 2.3 volts(use 470ohm resistors on 12v) and run about 60mA(3 leds) per chevron. If your LEDs are in series to each other, each LEDS will drop about 2.2 volts times 3 leds =6.6volt drop plus your signialing diodes drops and you will need to supply about 7.5volts with total circuit current of 20mA per chevron. Have you considered duty cycle ratings for you relay contacts? Finally a question, in your pic rear view MC, looks like you have yellow under red lenses. Is this LEDs?
  6. bkuhr
    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=beqi-UuiXq8]YouTube - flash arrow.AVI[/ame] Above vid of my design for arrow led turn signal At first I thought I would PM the only other member I know here who has experence in electronic design, Dingy, to see if he was interested in collobrating in my project, as he had stated in another post he was working on simular, then I thought this would likely be of interest to others, especially the final result, so I will provide my progress here. My plan is to replace lighting on my Venture to LEDS. Many places to buy plug and play, but I thought I would like turn arrows, and started experimenting I set my conditions for 1. turn arrows at 4 corners to sequence both front and rear on left or right as switched 2. turn lights also marker lights 3. turn lights also 4 way hazards 4. Minimum parts count/$ 5. also design trim lighting/brake lighing/passing lights from LEDs In my favor I found a source for cheap LEDS, buying 100ea 5mm for about $5 including shipping. For testing I have bought 100 each, Blue 5mm 6000mcd 20-50mA 3.0-3.4fV, Red 5mm 4000mcd 20-50mA 2.0-2.2fV, and Yellow 5000mcd 20-50mA 2.0-2.2fV. All have narrow view angle of 25-30deg and are very bright see straight on, not so much from an angle. Item 5 above is pretty straight forward, so started design of flashing arrow first. PDF is of my circuit so far, I am working on breadboard so changes are easy. Circuit is based on HCF4094 8 stage shift registar driven by high voltage 555 clock called TLC555. The shift registar outputs are driving NPN transistors, but due to high part count I chose transister array CA3083 with 5 each independent transistors capable of 200mA each. I chose my IC's purposly as high voltage (18V) as opposed to TTL(5V) to avoid parts count in voltage control for our 12-14 volt MC systems. Leds are arranged in series arrays. Had wanted to only have 1 major control circuit, but will need two , for left and right. Plan on 1 central control box with multiconductor wire to each corner light. As current to each segment is only 20-30mA this is well within capability of telco 24ga inside wire such as CAT5, and 4 pair wire gives 8 conductors for 8 chevrons, using main 12V already at each corner. Flashing arrow works great so started designing item 3 above. A little experimenting accomplished lighting all LEDS in sequence till all lit then hold, then a timer to output enable of the 4094 will flash all lit LEDs as in 4 way flasher. Then I started working on 2 above, meaning I thought I would need to dim the turn signals and have them fully lit to act as marker lights. I designed a 555 based pulse width modulator which will adjustable dim the LEDs, but at a noticable dimness as opposed to fully lit arrows, I think the LEDs are too dim and can't seem to find a happy medium. This is where I am looking for input. now I am thinking I need to have all LEDs lit full bright for marker lights, and when turning, only turn side will change from full bright to flashing arrow. also considering ordering White 18000mcd leds, but high fV will require changes in array. Weclome all questions, comments, suggestions
  7. bkuhr
    Some of the less expensive Motorcycle Jacks, such as the Harbor Freight one that I have, lower in a wierd and dangerious way. The jack instructions state step on release all the way to lower slowly, and step on release lightly to lower all the way FAST! This is wierd in my mind, as you have to step on release thru 'lightly' to get to 'all the way', and by the time you get there, the jack is down. I have never been able to lower my jack slowley, and just plan on MC coming down, all the way, fast and hard. Skydoc17's procedure has you up and down with wheels on and off. I would just be very sure how your jack works and take precautions. On my 1st gen I can lift both wheels high enough for removal at same time and just leave it up against the saftey stops, straps on of course, and when done come down on the wheels.
  8. bkuhr
    I'll take one also.
  9. bkuhr
    Is it possible to 'prescreen' posts for certain key words? (for sale, craigslist, ebay...) If so have window pop up on poster and ask 'if discussion', and button to continue, or 'sale item' and button to automatically move post to correct forum with auto delete date. Your question to poster should include short note explaining issue so they dont just hit the continue button because they dont understand issue. Just my thoughts.
  10. bkuhr
    This is last years deer, taken 50 feet behind my garage. But as I am laid up with cast on foot, not likely hunting this year.
  11. bkuhr
    Tracked down 3 dead cylinders on my first gen was resistor plug caps. Internals were rusted and dirty and likely any humidy casused problems. Tried to clean and repair only 1 of 3 worked after repair. Suspect spring lost required oomph. Ended up putting on 4 new plug caps for about $2.50 each and problem solved. I also replaced my plug wires at the time. Just suggestion
  12. bkuhr

    Surprise!

    bkuhr replied to 1 Canuck's topic in Watering Hole

    When I was stationed in New York, deer tag came with bear permit-free. Been a good chance for a 2fer:)
  13. bkuhr
    This would work if the switch is internally lighted with incadescent bulb, but if lighted with LED, which is a polarity sensitive diode that must be forward biased to turn on, power must be applied as designed to the common port for the switching contact and ground to the specified third port. If you reversed this hookup for the LED, you would be reverse biasing the diode, and possible beyond the max rev bias limit to where you could see the 'magic smoke' I agree with your previous statemant of ECMs and other solid state systems preform 'ground switching' of systems they are controliing, they seldom directly control a load as the solid states are limited in the amount of power they can 'sink', and typically switch the ground side of relays-simular to the way you have advised Golf&Venture to wire his lights, but most operator controlled switches on autos, military aircraft and our motorcycles-(not sure about new generation big rigs), are hot side switching, with exceptions being switching sensors(temp, oil level-press,kickstand), typically switching ground. With hot side switching, power to the load is cut off at the switch, which is typically very near the power buss and a short run of energized wire,(buss to switch). With ground switching, power is energized all the way thru the load to the ground switch. A lot of energized wire with no way to de-energize short of pulling fuse/breaker. Aside from greater potential for chaffing wire problems, makes difficult for troubleshooting problems when necessary.
  14. bkuhr
    Ranger Wipe Seperate the roll into squares and stack within reach, no more roll spooling onto floor and 1 square per operation saves paper too! Ranger wipe 1. Take a single square of t-paper and fold it twice. 2. Gently rip out a semi-circle from the folded square from the folded corners (Do not discard this piece!!!) 3. Unfold square (you'll have created a hole for your finger to be inserted) 4. Place paper with hole over finger (like a Bib) 5. Wipe with finger 6. Roll paper up and over finger applying pressure to remove fecal matter. 7. Discard 8. Now take the little cut out piece from earlier and clean under the finger nail. 9. Flush!
  15. bkuhr
    yep:thumbsup:
  16. bkuhr
    Although it is sometimes possible to 'switch' the ground side of a circuit, as Dingy posted above, it is not normally recommended, and in your paticular case with new light assemblies, most light housings receive a secondary ground thru the housing/mounting, and to put a switch in a housing ground wire will not open the circuit if it continues to receive ground from housing. As per switch you plan to use, your description sounds like a lighted switch, where a LED in the handle/rocker turns on when switch is on. The LED get power from position #1 and ground from position #3, and the load(lamps) on position #2. Although could work as you described using positions #1 and #2 on the ground side, the LED will not work and best to use a designed.
  17. bkuhr
    You did not state what model this is for, although I see in your profile you have an '89. I can only speek for the '83 I have but would assume yours to be simular. On the '83 with stock fuse block, there are 2 screw terminals at the top of the fuse block. The right is 10Amp fused power for ACC, red wire; and the left is ground, black wire. You need to install a relay for most all accessorys to avoid overloading bikes electrical system. Use a relay with 12volt coil and contacts rated for at leat 1.5 times your accessory load in amps. You would wire the coil of the relay to the ACC screws, so the relay will only activate when bike in on or acc. The contacts of the relay need to be wired with a fuse rated for you accessory(lights) to the plus terminal of the battery, and to you accessory. Use a new ground from frame or engine or battery minus. Do not use the ground acc screw,(except for relay coil ground), as this could also overload bike wiring. If you want accessory to be individually switched to be able to turn off even when bike on, add a new switch between the acc screw and relay coil. This way you can use small gage wiring and small low power switch.
  18. bkuhr
    both www.cheapcycleparts.com and www.bikebandit.com list the part numer MiCarl provided for $3.00 and $2.77 and do not state unavailable.
  19. bkuhr
    Go ahead and pull the battery and battery box now, you will have to anyway to get to the TCI connectors to swap in another. Then you can use an inspection mirror, and read your TCI part number, which is mounted upside down (label facing down) on the bottom of the coil mounting bracket. At this point I was able to go ahead and remove the TCI for the relocate mod with the fairings on, but be advised, it is very, very difficult. I took about 3 hours to unscrew 4 bolts holding coil bracket. Some state they have been able to unscrew tci directly from underneath the coil bracket, I could not. It was too tight and I had to pull the complete bracket and flip the bottom up to reach the TCI. Not sure, but may have been easier and faster to go ahead and remove fairings. Prior to disconnecting, somehow mark both halves of each of the 4 yellow coil connectors, to prevent mixing them up. While I has my coil bracket out, I modified it for future removal from the battery area, and replaced my coil leads/caps. The mod consisted of 1. Reinstall forward coil bracket screws from inside-out 2. Cut forward facing slots in forward coil bracket screw ears. This allows coil bracket to slide from rear to front, camming onto front screws, locking coil bracket down in up/down direction. Also required grinding of unnecessary tab to allow forward/rear mounting action. 3. Welded 'L' brackets to both coil bracket and frame to allow rear bolts of coil bracket to bolt in from the rear vs the side, although the orginal side mount could still be used without to much difficulty, skiping this step 4.Chassis ground wire was attached to forward left coil bracket screw. Extended wire and attached to new rear left coil bracket screw. Also steel wire welded to coil bracket which helps holds throttle junction block in fairing removed, and junction block held with tie-wrap to near wires. 5. I also modified the battery box bracket by removing the nutplate from the frame, and welded a nut the bracket so the bolts would work from inside out. PS. I have pics, but I used a cheap camera and they are badly out of focus.
  20. bkuhr
    I am working on a simular project, and found a source for LED's http://stores.ebay.com/buynow360?_fcid=1&_jgr=0&_localstpos=42101&_sid=705716716&_stpos=42101&gbr=1 I ordered blue, and got 100ea 5mm dia with 100ea 100 ohm and 470 ohm resisters for about $5 total including shipping. This was a trial order to see how they work, and they are great and very bright when looking straight on, but barely noticable when looking at an angle. They do project light quite a distance, as I wired 6 together on breadboard on kitchen table and lit up ceiling. I also just ordered red and yellow. May need some kind of diffusing lens for turn signals. Working on chasing light strip light to mount around bike to increase side visibility. Also plan on making simular turn arrows, although I was planning on 5 led's per chevron. Per your question, I believe there is only 1 magnetic pole in the rotating magnetic in the speedo which acts on the reed switch(could be wrong) but unsure gear ratio in the wheel hub to figure wheel rotation to speedo cable rotation. Suggest ohm meter green/white at cancel relay to ground, and rotate front wheel counting pulses on ohm meter.
  21. bkuhr
    Glad ya got it
  22. bkuhr
    Suspect defective bulb with too low of resistance Easy check, with 4 way on is a bulb brighter than rest? 4 way circuit uses all parts of turn circuit except turn switch. Also a ground in turn switch could cause problem, but you likely ruled out with another turn switch. Could put jumper in turn switch connector from brown/white to chocolate(power from flasher to left turn) to 100% rule out switch Hard check, pull 3 wire flasher and check resistance from brown/white wire to battery ground. Key off, flasher switch first to right, then left I expect readings as follows 1156 tail bulb=12.8V,2.1A,26.8W,6.09ohm 1157 front turn bulb(bright element)12.8V,26.9W,2.1A,6.09ohm (turn) (dim element) 12.8V,8.3W,.648A,19.7ohm (marker) Unsure dash bulb estimate same as 1157 dim @19.7 ohm So 2ea 6.09ohm and 1ea 19.7ohm bulbs in parallel=about 2.6ohms circuit resistance 1/(1/r1+1/r2+1/r3.....) Expect working right to show about 2.6 ohms, and defective left to show something less. Then start pulling the left/dash bulbs until you find the one causing trouble.
  23. bkuhr
    I found the post talking about the pins. Pretty easy job when I did mine. I was missing 1 pin at 3rd gear, and it prevented shifting to third or above. Not sure what action would be like with pin missing at first gear, but your post sure sounding like a missing pin to me. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40713
  24. bkuhr
    83? Likely dropped pin from shift cam. Pull clutch cover and clutch basket to verify. Replace entire cam with later model solid cam which does not use sheet steel to hold the pins in. Likey need new pin/s and missing pin likely in oil pan. There is a post somewhere here about it, thats how I found and fixed my 3rd, 4th, 5th gear.
  25. bkuhr
    Yesterday on the way to wife doctor appointment, stopped at MY local harbor freight in Bowling Green Ky to see it they have a Mctire changer on the shelf. They had only display model, and I didn't have time to track down manager to see if I could by the display. 2 hours later I was back and ready to buy, and display was gone! I thought no way, and found the manager. Manager said they had the last one from display in the back on hold for someone from Clarksville TN to pick up, and to call back tomorrow(today) to see if it had been picked up or had a new one on the truck due in. Called today, and manager said I miss understood, and that they gentleman from Clarksville was supposed to pick it up on Saturday, or they would put it back on the self Sunday, and they had not finished unpacking truck, but apparently we know there will not be one on the truck. Geeze, talk about service, hold item at MY store for someone not even from here, for days:doh: Just wondering if gentleman from Clarksville was on vr.org? If so congrats, ya just barley beat me. PS, if it's still there Monday its mine. Now I guess I will have to weld up my own. Can anyone provide pics and measurments?
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