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bkuhr

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Everything posted by bkuhr

  1. bkuhr
    google search, TID14-10 appears to be Kawaski XJ and XS 1100
  2. bkuhr

    Morphine......

    bkuhr replied to BEER30's topic in Watering Hole

    I've had 2 stones(attacks), and they would not pass. Had to be surgically removed. They just go up there with some little grippers called a basket and pull them out. Thank god not awake. Up where you ask? Well they don't cut any new openings in ya. Not sure which pain is worse, the stone or the surgical roto-rooter recovery-for days! And I still have more formed stones in kidneys just waiting to come out, one of the is 12mm, they say to big to pass into urter and nothing to worry about.
  3. bkuhr
    I thought the same thing when I did my TCI, so I bought both: "pkg of 25 assorted 1 amp recifier diodes" radio shack #276-1653 $2.79 and 4 pkg of 2 "1N5402 3amp 200V recifier diodes" radio shack #276-1143 $1.59/pk Both items stocked in store-no need to special order. When I got the TCI open, I realized 3 amp diode was way over kill,and would require redrilling pcb holes for larger diode lead diameter, and the "pack of 25" included at least 8 of the 1N4001 others have called for-so this is what I used, and no problems since. BTW- if still interested, I still have the 1N5402's, 4 unopened packs of 2.
  4. bkuhr
    Most every part for 1983 has '26H' in it
  5. bkuhr
    I walked into HomeDepot a couple of years ago, and they had these ceiling mounted radiant heaters over the registers. Was really warm. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_5840_5840 I found one at a yard sale, but have not hooked it up yet. Need to dig in about 100 feet Lp line to garage. Been looking at this gas line http://cgi.ebay.com/gas-Flex-tubing-pipe-METER-1-2-10353P1-/260616249441?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cadf06061
  6. bkuhr
    http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200307961_200307961
  7. bkuhr
    http://www.pauljrdesigns.com/contact sounds like a neat idea, try the sales tab in above contact
  8. bkuhr
    All fixed now, and vac leak was due to poor fit between 5way and gauge hoses. No clear stuff, and mercury reads straight accross, and holds steady with vac applied. Actually tubes closest to vac pump on 5way start up tubes faster than others, and retain this dirrerence all the way up scale, but difference is almost none. Suspect if 5 way manifold used rather than plumbing fittings, all would be perfect.
  9. bkuhr
    I have had for 15+ years a mercury sync stick. Lately during sync's on my venture, I have noticed a 'clear' substance, of different amounts, rises in the tubes above the mercury, and got me wondering when I sync'd, lineing up the mercury line, if I was really in true sync-ie:is the clear substance changing the vacum level imposted on the mecury? So today I decided to check calibration, went to fish store an got 5 way hose adapter, and applied vacum with pump up mityvac. My mercury lines are off a little +-.5", but more interesting, I had to apply continous vacum, as vacum bleed off fast, and was unable to hole mercury at a constant level to be sure where mercury was really at. Considering opening mercury tank and removing the clear substance, and vacum test all the lines/tubes. Q. Is it normal for sync sticks to bleed vacum? Supposedly thru the liquid mercury pool
  10. bkuhr
    Yep, thats it Thru right hand turn signal way down low, two relays-bottom turn cancel(pointer and X on mine), maybe need to get to connector thru headlight though. Hard to get pic.
  11. bkuhr
    Flasher cancel relay under right hand faring with 5 wires and flat 6 pin plug, maybe?accessable thru right turn signal?
  12. bkuhr
    see post#7, install directions for stator cooling kit http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52939 In your picture your 'washer' needs to be turned around with flange IN
  13. bkuhr
    Try flasher with cancel relay disconnected-per manual.
  14. bkuhr
    Not sure if our flashers are load dependant like old car fashers, Have you converted to low load LEDs, or check for burned out bulb. Just suggestion.
  15. bkuhr
    Check out my last post here http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52265 Then check for major air leak
  16. bkuhr
    I believe on my 83, turn and 4-way flashers are on forward left frame, (maybe accessable-?- thru left turn signal housing) on the fairing frame under the left cowling simular location of reserve light relay on right side
  17. bkuhr
    Disconnected overflow hose at radiator, just a drop of antifreeze. Hooked up Mighty Vac to end of hose, just a couple of pumps and flowing. Disconnected Mighty Vac and entire overflow tank started draining by gravity-Just like GaryZ said. Put it all back together and hosed the mess off the scoot and the floor, and refilled overflow tank! Able to complete all with just long curved nosed pliers, and didn't have to remove any plastic:) Thank You all for input!
  18. bkuhr
    When I replaced my plates, I stalled when kicking into gear from neutral, restarted in gear and ok, about 2 days was working fine.
  19. bkuhr
    On my old honda 360 I had a plate mounted to left front brake caliper bracket, secured with the caliper bolts.
  20. bkuhr
    Good info, yesterday on way home stopped and picked up, , fits great-thanks, When I stopped at autoparts, Radiator was leaking from old cap, guess I didn't get it tight when I did the previous "finger test" Radiator was hot-ie:full, even though I had lost fluid during leak, and overflow tank had not moved from previous position. Also per garyZ my tank did not drain. I topped off overflow with premix from autoparts and headed home. Guess tonight will check for overflow blockage, but temp gauge is doing great. Ain't this a GREAT site:thumbsup2:
  21. bkuhr
    Pull fuse and put ohm meter on load side to ground, Suspect you will see 1-2 ohms during fault.(12v/15A=1.5ohms). Fault may be intermittant, move things-steering/buttons/controls/etc until you see low ohms. If it happens when moving things that helps narrow down problem (ie pinched wire in steering...) During fault on meter, start disconnectiing items powered by this fuse (cmu, tach, clock, dashlight lead, etc) I don't belive you provided scoot model, and I don't have my wire diagrams on hand right now to help you decide everything that is powered by this fuse, but you can search thru tech libary for wiring diagram.
  22. bkuhr
    Thanks all, Before post had checked overflow tank, was and is at 1/2 between full and low mark. This weekend pulled rad cap, stuck finger in hole:whistling:, and came up dry. Added about 1/4 gallon water. Not sure capacity, but 1/4 gallon in little tiny radiator was probably a lot! This am rode and forgot to watch gauge as it warmed, but when I did look I was at middle green, and it stayed there for entire trip-even at stop. Now I suspect due to having water in overflow tank, but not being drawn into low radiator during cooldown, that I have defective pressure cap. I think I need to replace it. Does autoparts carry usable cap, or need OEM specific? BTW-83VS1200
  23. bkuhr
    Check out these posts I had with my carbs. Carb problems are a PITA, but overall I believe, If you are sure you have no vacum leakes, you need to do a complete carb breakdown and cleaning. Need to ensure you can spray carb cleaner (wear eye glasses)thru every port and jet. IMO the jets in the jet block can not be cleaned except by disassembly. Do not clean ports/jets with any kind of wire. After I messed mine up, I thought I should have used ultrasonic cleaner to try to clear plugged jets. Be advised-plan to replace all orings and gaskets. About $80 worth. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51716 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52265
  24. bkuhr
    Under and forward of the battery box is the tray the coils are on, bolted to the bottom of this tray is the TCI box, with connector facing where the battery box was. Very very difficult to get off with fairings on, but possible.
  25. bkuhr
    YICS chambers used for fuel economy, did not make much differance and not really needed. They are the plastic box mounted forward of the carbs with the 4 vacum lines going directly to the heads. They have 4 compartments, that need to be isolated from each other and from atmosphere. And hoses need to not leak. Think of it like this. You idle ok. Air and fuel mix is ok. Fuel coming only from idle ports(assuming no carb problems) and butterflies are nearly closed. Now you roll on throttle and this opens butterflies. Adds more Air and needs more fuel to keep good mix. As butterflies open and rpm increases, more vacum produced, and vacum used to pull open carb sliders, opening main fuel needle, increasing main fuel from main pilot ports maintaining air fuel mix. A vacum leak will keep sliders from opening, or opening slow/late. Could be in 1 or more carbs. Clogged ports in carb can also cause same problems in blocking vacum, air and or fuel.
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