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Been there done that. Glad you caught it now. I also had problem with bent sync links took forever to figure out, Thats why I recommend the presync procedure in previous post.

Looks like I was to late with my post, sorry. I did mean to mention that in your pic I copied in my post, your right rear carb looks to be slightly tweaked (angled) as compared to the other carbs. Need at least to check flatness with straight edge.

Attached pic of my left side and right side choke links, and pic of your rear view. Looks like my right side link is angled more to the right than yours, yours appear to be straight down. Your vid also shows play for your link to move more to the right. Possible for rod to be slightly bent, but more likely you have carb banks assembled together slightly wrong. Front and rear mount rails have sight amount of wiggle room around screws before tightened. Suggest loosen 4 screws on each front and rear mount rail, and push left and right bank toward each other. This will make the 'chock rod' longer and angle the right link a little to the right. Also very important for carbs to be assembled on an assembly plate (very smooth, very flat surface). I use a 1/4 steel plate cut to fit between mount protusions, but glass from picture or mirror may suffice if fully supported on flat table top. Double check flatness with very good straight edge. (If using glass use caution not to drop or press to hard onto it). Leave the bottom mounts and drain tues off, installing last, so carbs can sit on bottom carb thoats on assembly plate. Very easy for carbs to be tweaked into a slight angle otherwise. First install top mounts and tighten screws for each carb bank. Then install front and rear mounts to assemble the banks together and tighten screws. (While doing this press banks together to get your choke right.) Finally flip carbs and install bottom mounts without changing any other adjustments already made. Now double check that the carbs are flat with each other. If they will not sit on assemble plate with bottom mounts on, use a very good straight edge across the bottom throats in every direction. You have already figured out that the 'choke' finger set screws self center into dimples in the actuating rods. Make sure they are properly in the dimples. Finally if you decide to bend the rod, remove it from the right link first, to avoid bending pressure on the link-(bend and test and repeat method). After this is done make sure throttle rods actuate butterflies correctly, and preset all 3 sync screws so all 4 butterflies are just and fully closed, then start to open exactly same time together. Go ahead and play with these screws now and understand how they work together for when it comes time for sync, but finish with them set as above. Now do fuel float level check, procedure in forum. If good, fine ready to install carbs on bike. If not, then.....start all this topic over to get the bowls off for adjustments. (seldom needs adjustment, but should be checked during reassembly to be sure.)

How about some real good pics of your setup. Maybe some one can spot the problem.

'Seems' to me there is a plastic bushing in the right hand choke, (enricher/starter), bell crank that the push rod secures thru. If missing, slack would account for right hand 'choke' responing late. Of course it 'seems" I might be spaced out and wrong about this bushing. Will try to look at mine later.

Staying out of Mac/Win and getting back to orginal question. I had similar problem and it was a bad memory stick. Remove all and reinstall 1 at a time and boot up. Found the bad one that way when it would not boot.

Assuming just power was unplugged, maybe internet connection still plugged in? Start by just removing modem/eithernet card, maybe it is fried and locking up CPU. If true static damage could be both motherboard and cpu-good luck.

I cut an old bicycle innertube into in effect a large/fat rubber band. Then stretched around relay and relay bracket.

May try milling slots onto cam gear bolts holes, to allow 1-2 deg adjustment of gear on cam shaft. A metal plug in the space left in the slot between the bolt and gear prevents movement and is retained by the bolt itself. Had a simular setup on race car, but cant find info right now, that had a couple of different plugs with off center hole that could be installed with offset to right or left in slot(advance/retard), and plugs with different amounts of offsets. Let me know if you want more info.

Gary, All 3 layers are magnetic. Top and bottom strongly and middle less than strongly but not weakly. Suspect top and bottom steel, and middle some steel alloy. Top and bottom measure the same as follows. material thickness=.0065", with 'glue lines' seem to measure about =.008" Middle material tickness=.001" but has stamped raised parts that measure=.005" All 3 stacked together measured accross glue lines and raised stamps=.029" Math should be .008+.005+.008=.021" but I also have a lot of corrosion built up. Suspect the stamped raised parts crush during torque, so I would guess an installed gasket would measure .0065+.001+.0065=.014" This may give you a range of .014"-.021" Hope this helps Brian

I have read here that sometimes changes to suspension such as leveling links or lowing fork tubes can effect handling. Maybe PO changed something. No experience here, others can chip in.

Ken, On my 83 the 6 pin connector is forward on the left side near rest of left side connectors(regulator/stator) for removing the whole rear end intact. There are bullet connectors right on the fender near the actual turn and brake housings, for removing these housings. Need to look how you brake housing is actually hooked up, suspect PO tapped into stock wiring somewhere you have not found to keep the brake/running light working, and used the empty connectors you have found for the original mod. Just a guess but pretty sure blue and yellow should go only to the brake housing Another thought, does the RSV have stock dome lights or lights in the luggage, if so may be for these.

Gary, I still have my old gaskets out in the garage, they are the 3 piece and seperated, but I will mic them tomorrow squeezing 3 three pieces as tight as possible, as well as all 3 seperate to be added together, and see if that will give you a working range. Brian

No , talking about bright and dim lights in the brake light housing. IE running and brake

Blue should be running light (low beam) in brake light housing, and yellow should be brake light (high beam) in tail light housing. At least per 83 diagram, RSV should be same.

I congratulate you on a great design, and your effort to created a seperate control at each corner, as opposed to my effort to create a central control and rewire/modify vehicle, is defenitly simpiler, and the cost/components difference is likely minimal. I have made photosensetive boards before, and was planning to do so again. Gives me something to consider. Thanks Brian

They should be able to due current drain tests both when off and on running and compare to a good bike to prove something like radio problem or not. Could be they are having a bad case of chasing their tail, replacing 1 component(ie stator) when another component (ie rectifier) is bad and blowing new stator, then replacing rectifier and bad stator blowes it. I feel for ya. Maybe try a different dealer/mechanic. Good luck

check out this thread http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53772&highlight=starter+clutch Have not messed with mine at all, so no first hand info.

TRANSLATOR, BINARY Please note: This application encodes and decodes ASCII and ANSI text. Only codepoints [ TEXT ] ok by next wensday ill post up a rough idea of where we will go for a summer ride from hell to paridice so you will know what i have in mind for a ride this comming summer be nice if you could all make itdray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f 6b 20 62 79 20 6e 65 78 74 20 77 65 6e 73 64 61 79 20 69 6c 6c 20 70 6f 73 74 20 75 70 20 61 20 72 6f 75 67 68 20 69 64 65 61 20 6f 66 20 77 68 65 72 65 20 77 65 20 77 69 6c 6c 20 67 6f 20 66 6f 72 20 61 20 73 75 6d 6d 65 72 20 72 69 64 65 20 66 72 6f 6d 20 68 65 6c 6c 20 74 6f 20 70 61 72 69 64 69 63 65 20 20 73 6f 20 79 6f 75 20 77 69 6c 6c 20 6b 6e 6f 77 20 77 68 61 74 20 69 20 68 61 76 65 20 69 6e 20 6d 69 6e 64 20 66 6f 72 20 61 20 72 69 64 65 20 74 68 69 73 20 63 6f 6d 6d 69 6e 67 20 73 75 6d 6d 65 72 20 0d 0a 0d 0a 62 65 20 6e 69 63 65 20 69 66 20 79 6f 75 20 63 6f 75 6c 64 20 61 6c 6c 20 6d 61 6b 65 20 69 74 0d 0a 0d 0a 64 72 61 79 6 [ BASE64 ] b2sgYnkgbmV4dCB3ZW5zZGF5IGlsbCBwb3N0IHVwIGEgcm91Z2ggaWRlYSBvZiB3aGVyZSB3ZSB3aWxsIGdvIGZvciBhIHN1bW1lciByaWRlIGZyb20gaGVsbCB0byBwYXJpZGljZSAgc28geW91IHdpbGwga25vdyB3aGF0IGkgaGF2ZSBpbiBtaW5kIGZvciBhIHJpZGUgdGhpcyBjb21taW5nIHN1bW1lciANCg0KYmUgbmljZSBpZiB5b3UgY291bGQgYWxsIG1ha2UgaXQNCg0KZHJheQ== [ DEC / CHAR ] 111 107 32 98 121 32 110 101 120 116 32 119 101 110 115 100 97 121 32 105 108 108 32 112 111 115 116 32 117 112 32 97 32 114 111 117 103 104 32 105 100 101 97 32 111 102 32 119 104 101 114 101 32 119 101 32 119 105 108 108 32 103 111 32 102 111 114 32 97 32 115 117 109 109 101 114 32 114 105 100 101 32 102 114 111 109 32 104 101 108 108 32 116 111 32 112 97 114 105 100 105 99 101 32 32 115 111 32 121 111 117 32 119 105 108 108 32 107 110 111 119 32 119 104 97 116 32 105 32 104 97 118 101 32 105 110 32 109 105 110 100 32 102 111 114 32 97 32 114 105 100 101 32 116 104 105 115 32 99 111 109 109 105 110 103 32 115 117 109 109 101 114 32 13 10 13 10 98 101 32 110 105 99 101 32 105 102 32 121 111 117 32 99 111 117 108 100 32 97 108 108 32 109 97 107 101 32 105 116 13 10 13 10 100 114 97 121 [ MESSAGE DIGEST / CHECK SUM ] MD2: 4c9544f71bb1dfffedee1f3ea136647eMD4: 634c759a964e65435488559a81214d3eMD5: e966fdec0c624a09a8c2c4a29c7d793aCRC 8, ccitt, 16, 32 : CRYPT (form: $ MD5? $ SALT $ CRYPT):$1$r7mX2/Y9$zYYpsXhgDk9lXGR3u6gGM0 (form: SALT[2] CRYPT[11]):psuIMOJ0gydBESHA1: f7057dfa15e933f092f54fe979b064cf3f8c3d9eRIPEMD-160: 3942687a40fb33282349baabea853592c13aaa88 (This cannot be decoded*) Happy? A small donation goes a long ways! *Cannot be decoded easily (within my lifespan). The source code for this page is available here. Credit for this idea goes to http://nickciske.com/binary/ in its original form in 2000. Mirror sites of this page: home1 - home2 - home3 HA 01001000 01000001:thumbsup2:

Very cool, I like. Any specs on how you did it?

Can also find them on old computer cables at 'goodwill' etc. It is the big 'knot' on serial, printer, and some power cables. Some are inside a snap apart plastic cage, and some are molded into the cables, but can cut out-ruining the cable(it was junk anyway). Not familar with these specific types of lamps, but suspect they have pulse width modulator (unsure reason if dimming not required) or more likely a DC to DC voltage multiplier(due to limit of about 5 LEDs that can be run in series on 12V, and running 100's of LEDS in parallel would increase amperage significally, ie 100 leds=about 2 amps). Either way both types of circuits are osillators running at high frequencies in the Khz range(same as radio frequencies). The RF Choke may help, but the best way to dampen RF freq is a small capacitor as close as possible to the osillators power source and RF shielding.( this means internal the sealed beam). Someone may wish to try to place a cap as close as possible to the sealed beam bulb(directly into the bulbs wiring or contacts). Suggest ceramic chip cap of .01-.1uf rated for 18V or more, directly from plus to minus.

Gary, have you figured out who to interface these with your venture?

LM3914 is a good thought I had not considered, This chip senses an adjustable voltage to drive up the led strip simular to the analog bar graph on the bottom of a digital multimeter. I figured it was easier to drive a circuit with a clock to progress the led strip. When I was at Fort Lewis I build a LM3914 circuit and wired it accross this signal strength meter on my CB. Our CB group used to have CB "rabbit hunts"(hide and seek). Bar graph helped out much in finding a CB transmitter! Maybe idea for Ventureriders? I like idea of additional turn signal, ( may have to design power output to drive aditional turn signals in my design) but there are a lot of ready made LED Bar Strip lights available for less than they can be made with descret components. Saw some at AUTOZONE the other day, and they even have a built in battery for testing on the shelf. Pretty neat. Keep the ideas coming Brian

Thanks Gary, but I don't think so. I have an Autocad(98) program on my desktop(which I seldom use anymore) but it wont load on my Vista laptap. I am using electronic design software called KICAD. I am learning the software but it is supposed to let you build a schematic, then it will automatically design a PCB design(even multiple layers) with input to component locations, then output photo resist ready transparencys for use on photo resist pcb's. I do like and appreaciate all the CAD work that you do, and sure would make it easier to provide visual descriptions when helping someone. Maybe sometime I will purchase a new CAD program, but low on $ list. Thanks anyway, Brian