coy55boy

It's cold here in Tucson too! We're only gonna get up to 75 today...

Hmmm, so they announce a recall that will cost the company 10-12 million bucks to fix and the stock price goes up? I don't understand the logic behind that...

Interesting description too: "DESIGNED TO BE DIRECT REPLACEMENT FOR THE FACTORY FUEL FILTER" :mo money::mo money::mo money:

I've been thinking about it. But, the only ones I've seen that I really like are the Vance & Hines Monster slip-ons. However, at +$800 it'll just have to be a thought...

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n163/coy55boy/Misc/cow_a_socky.jpg

No Kidding! It's a half day job! Makes me want to believe the people who think engineers design things in such a way that routine maintenance items are better performed by dealers. I heard (but didn't confirm) that an air filter change on the GL1800 costs in the neighborhood of $400.

I use Purolator Pure One PL14612. It's a little longer than the 14610 but has more filtering media. It's a tight fit, but it has terrific filtering specs and a good back flow valve.

WOW! (wiping away drool...)

I wonder if there's an app for that I can add to my Wing?

I admit I'm intrigued by the car tire idea. I've read a number of posts about it and for the most part, the people that use them swear by them. I figured I'd wait until my rear was up for replacement before making the decision. Did you install it yourself? Or take it to a dealership? I kinda figured they'd frown on the idea. Another question I have is about balancing. I like to use ceramic beads instead of lead. Can you use them in a run flat tire?

This sounds more like a system issue to me. If you are using Internet Explorer, try using FireFox or another browser to see if you get the same result. If you do, it's most likely that your mouse or mouse driver has a problem. Borrow a mouse and see if that corrects it.

:rotf:Mount them on top of your trunk facing aft. That way, you can also use them as turbo boost!

I mounted a pair of Rivco air horns on the left side of my 1st gen (I'll take pics and post 'em later). I picked it up used for $25 including the chrome horns, compressor and relay along with the associated wiring from an owner retiring his Harley. It meant having to fashion a bracket to attach to the existing horn location, but it was fairly easy using some 1/8" aluminum flat stock I had laying around. I mounted the compressor and relay under the radio inside the left fairing. This made for a really clean looking install. I was unimpressed with the sound initially (sounded more like a sick cow than anything else). So, I tested the horns using compressed air. They worked great!. Because it was a used item and I had no idea how old it was, the compressor was questionable. So, I went online and found that a [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Wolo-808C-Replacement-Compressor/dp/B000GVPEYU]Amazon.com: Wolo 808C Replacement Compressor: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31iLVA6oYhL.@@AMEPARAM@@31iLVA6oYhL[/ame] existed (25 psi vs. 15). Once I got that puppy installed, I was happy! It has the sound signature of an 18 wheeler. I don't activate my horn often, but when I do...I want people to notice! http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n163/coy55boy/83%20Venture%20trailer%20hitch/Horn1.jpghttp://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n163/coy55boy/83%20Venture%20trailer%20hitch/Horn3.jpghttp://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n163/coy55boy/83%20Venture%20trailer%20hitch/Horn2.jpg

Actually, the spelling should be ass_me because I can't say anyone else was made an ass of... I bought a little trailer to pull behind my Wing. I thought it would be perfect since the Wing already had an unusual 6 wire weatherproof connector and the trailer was equipped with the same device. I got the bike out and attached the trailer coupler to the hitch ball and was thrilled to see that the trailer tongue was perfectly level. Then I connected the chains and stood back to admire my work. So far, so good. Next, I connected the wire harness and turned the ignition key to on to verify the lights working properly on the trailer. That's when all hell broke loose! As soon as I turned around, I could see dense white smoke billowing out from the under the trunk. I immediately turned the key off and went to assess the damage. When I got to the back of the bike, I could see that the rear lights were still on. HUH? I already turned off the key... I figured (assumed) that somehow the rear lights were getting feedback voltage from the trailer, so I disconnected the wire harness. Nope, still got lights. So, I thought maybe I should start the bike to possibly reset any relays that had gotten stuck. It started right up, but I'm still getting smoke. By now, I'm beginning to panic. After turning the key to off, I quickly yanked the side cover off and pulled the main fuse. But, even that didn't stop the smoke! Now that the battery is exposed, I ran back to the garage for a wrench and disconnected the battery. Finally, the smoking ceases. It seemed like a long time, but this all took place in about 2 or 3 minutes. I opened the trunk but realized that there could be nothing in there causing the problem. I opened the left bag. This is where the previous owner installed 2 additional fuse boxes (for the lighting, audio system, trailer, etc.). I checked everything over and couldn't find any visible indication of extreme heat or any wires hot to the touch. Next step is to remove the rear fender and start following the wire harness. As soon as I got the fender off, I could see the culprit. A trailer wiring harness isolator had been installed. It was now a tortured, twisted mass of plastic, wires, and epoxy. After doing some research online, I could find no 'standard' wiring setup for the harness connector. So, the assumption I made (that made an ass of me) was that they would already be correct. Compounding the issue was that whoever installed the isolator (gotta blame someone!) had put in a 30 amp fuse. The online instructions said 10 amp max. The auxiliary fuse box was wired directly to the battery which is why pulling the main fuse didn't help. The likely culprit for all the mayhem was probably the 6th wire. This is added to a harness where a dome light is being utilized. It is normally wired to be 'hot' when the bike's ignition is in the 'off' position. When I first connected the trailer harness to the bike, it must have fed the dome light voltage back to the output side of the running lights relay in the isolator and then fried it with the contacts closed. I was fortunate that it didn't do any further damage to the bike. The moral of this story? NEVER ASSUME the previous mechanic got it right!

Hmmm, an aluminum rainbow!