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bkuhr

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Everything posted by bkuhr

  1. bkuhr
    Most likely in bad need of sync, but could be vacum leak (sync nipple caps, yics nipple caps,carb boots leak,holes in diaphrams, missing diaphram cover oring), or plugged vacum passages in the carbs. Suggest start with static sync, remove sliders (good time to look for holes in diaphrams and cover oring) adjusting per sync procedure until as you see same barely open butterfly on all 4. Reassemble and due vacum leak detect with (diff of opionion-sprayed flam gas ie:ether, LP {have fire ext very near by}or non flam gas ie:wd40) and listen for change when running to pinpoint sorce of vacum leak. Use either gas in moderation at small pinpoint suspect areas. Keep in mind does not run well with airfilter off, but sliders should respond about the same.
  2. bkuhr
    [ame=http://www.google.com/search?q=5+point+torx+bit&hl=en&tbs=shop%3A1&aq=f]5 point torx bit - Google Search[/ame] bunch of choices
  3. bkuhr
    My quess for the poor running would be the TCI, and more specifically the glass diodes. Your YICS disconnect does not sound correct to me and may be cause of poor mileage. I believe when YICS is removed, all 4 ports should be individually plugged, not sharing vacum with other cylinders.
  4. bkuhr
    On my 83 the pressure cap is in an awkward position and difficult to install properly(level and sort of "double clicks"). Look at the locking tabs on your cap and how they work, then make sure it is fully and properly engaged. Then rinse the radiator with water hose to get all spilled coolant out of the fins. After is is warmed/dried up it should stop steaming the windshield.
  5. bkuhr
    Have you checked coolant level in the RADIATOR, as opposed to the surge tank?(pull pressure cap only when cold, coolant should be to very top). I made the mistake of checking level and servicing at surge tank, but hose from tank to radiator was plugged, and the radiator was actually low coolant. Also defective pressure cap on the radiator could cause surge tank to not keep radiator full.
  6. bkuhr
    try dennis kirk, says 10 in stock http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/search/search.jsp?searchString=mv85hb15&store=&resultType=subCategories&x=11&y=11
  7. bkuhr
    My first thought with 1st post, then this post confirms... Loose ground connection at the battery. Loose=heat and discoloration/corrosion Disconnect and sand post and terminal till clean, then reassembly snugly.
  8. bkuhr

    Lost Phone

    bkuhr replied to BuckShot's topic in Watering Hole

    No big problem, glad I could help Brian
  9. bkuhr

    Lost Phone

    bkuhr replied to BuckShot's topic in Watering Hole

    Phone recovered from Wally world-what a pain, and in the mail. Tracking# sent PM
  10. bkuhr

    Lost Phone

    bkuhr replied to BuckShot's topic in Watering Hole

    same here, I live close
  11. bkuhr
    ,plan to replace the shift segment with a new model type that Gary shows. Also order new pins, long and short. Easy fix, hardest finding tools for removing the clutch basket.
  12. bkuhr
    Don't know about Lincon, but is there some sort of condensor/surge suppressor in the coil primary circuit. If so I would replace it, and maybe the coil also on the assumption the the coil is creating to much back emf during field collaspe and overloading the module. Just a guess:2cents:
  13. bkuhr
    RC2 in pic 7 looks promising as a special purpose resistor, maybe adjustment screw on right side I cant see?
  14. bkuhr
    I am trying to figure why the bean counters would have run a ground wire all the way back to the CMU when there are lots of opportunities a lot closer to the tank float. My 83 does not have return back to CMS. What changed? I am thinking maybe they build it a 'calibration circuit', maybe like a variable resistor in the CMU adjusted for differences in floats, maybe 1-5 ohms built into circuit when float all the way up (0 ohms across float) = all bars light. Just WAG. If this was the case, just running the bypass wire as discussed would throw calibration off, all all bars would stay lit until float reached ~6-10 ohms, which could be nearly 1/4 tank before gauge started dropping, and at the empty end, still 1 bar lit when looking for reserve switch on side of road. It may be worth it to crack the CMU again just to trace it out, and take pics for others.
  15. bkuhr

    tool

    bkuhr replied to oldgoat's topic in Watering Hole

    I use this type of extractor almost exclusley, but be very careful. If you break the tip of the extractor off in the screw, you are scr.....d. High carbon extractor steel will prevent redrilling the hole. I have, when possible, drilled completely thru the screw as a precaution so if needed can tap a wire in from behind a push broke extractor out. I have seen the 'grabit' type extractors, and they look promising, but have not tried them yet. +1 to use reverse drill bit to drill the hole, and you may not even need an extractor
  16. bkuhr
    Looking at Garys 'official' diagram above, it looks like the main CMU ground IN is the black wire in the bottom pin of the top connector. I would suspect a PCB trace from this pin to the black pin out to the float. Might suggest trick each segement system into a fault to verify all segements work, and if so call it good. not sure about 86, but my 83 has headlight segement-disconnect bulb taillight segemant-disconnect bulb sidestand-actuate stand eng oil level-temp ground bypass level switch brake fluid level-open master cover and press on float switch with plastic straw battery-most with AGM have bypassed. Disconnect (open) bypass wire fuel level-disconnect green wire from float and apply rheostat or fixed resistors in value from 60 ohm to 0 ohm to ground(or pull float and move arm)
  17. bkuhr
    I dont have wiring diagram for 86, and to tired to dig it out from tech library, but if diagram shows sendor return comes ONLY from CMS and not from frame, then the broken ground connection is internal the CMS as a ground OUT, vs other grounds on the CMS as ground IN. Should not have any problem installing permemant bypass, but I would want it to be 'right', and would open the cms again
  18. bkuhr
    Beer not necessary, just glad I could help My first suspect for the float return ground problem would be the attachment nut on the float itself-corroded,loose,etc. After that likely a connection in the harness you are not likely to find. may have to install permemant bypass Little correction to my above about CMOS logic, I meant to state TTL but was occupied at work. TTL=5V source and 5V logic CMOS=5-18Vsource and 5v logic
  19. bkuhr
    Not 100%, but old CMOS logic that my 83 CMS is based on is 5v for both source and signal referance. I would expect the same-BUT-I would only expect the full 5v with the float UNHOOKED, open circuit. With the float hooked up, I would expect a lesser voltage do to the resistor(in the float) voltage drop, and 0v when tank is empty. This suggest to me, you likely have problem with ground side of float. Do ground side bypass I suggested above
  20. bkuhr
    Suggest backstab a ground wire into the wire at the CMS connector that comes from the float, with the CMS hooked up to the bike wiring harness. Zero ohms(good ground wire) should cause gauge to read full. Give it time, on mine it takes 10-20 second/per bar for gauge to increment. (Double check wiring diagram for your bike, that you correctly identify the correct wire at the CMS, and triple check with an ohm check from the unplugged CMS to the wire on the float.)(backstabbing a ground in the wrong pin of the CMS may cause more problems than you want) If this does not work, there is a problem with the CMS. If this does work, do the same ground bypass at the float on the wire contact.-If you did the above ohm check, then gauge should still work. Now assuming it works with ground bypass at the float, but not in normal, this leave just 2 things. -do the ground bypass to the ground wire side of the float, If this fixes it, repair ground wire problem -If still does not work, than there is a problem with the float itself.
  21. bkuhr
    Thinking out loud, bogs under load at speed Sounds like main jet sliders not keeping up with throttle Maybe dirt/carbon in-on sliders, holes in diaphrams, vacum leak, valve lash shim adjustment Also maybe igntion timing not keeping up- not sure of RSV, does it have manifold sensor? Maybe defective sensor or vacum leak.
  22. bkuhr
    Did you have the radiator cap off before?, real tough to get back on correctly, and if it was loose-could be the pop! Could be as simple as getting the cap back on correctly Same goes for the cylinder side plugs, dont run it with side covers off-thats all that holds the rubber plugs in dont give up yet
  23. bkuhr
    Wonder if white RLU indicator light is also on in low beam? I would still suspect bad connections internal the CMS, but the Reserve Lighting Unit is lighting the low beam that you see(suspect really lighting the high beam when you are switched into low beam) as designed. Heres my CMS repair/mod/wiring diagram from testing http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58292
  24. bkuhr
    Bottom of this thread http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58292 talks about LED dash lights from http://www.superbrightleds.com/ I replaced on my 83 dash. There are 4 backlights and 5 indicator lights. I would suggest a green led for the neutral, and leaving stock incadescent bulb in the RLU indicator. The dash bulbs are 158/194 bulbs. http://www.superbrightleds.com/ also have direct plug in LED replacement for 1156 and 1157 bulbs, which should be turn and brake/marker lights, although I have not tried them yet. I used blue backlights, and white indicators lights, but if you want backlight bright you may want white in backlights also. I saw a few LEDS at autoparts, not sure how well they would work, and they were very costly. Likely run into problem with turn bulbs flashing properly. The normal solution is to add a load resistor (also available from superbrightleds)(this defeats any power savings) but this would involve 'wiring'. I made a custom flasher that fit in place of stock flasher, without rewiring of bike, as I could not locate an autoparts flasher that would both work with LEDS and work with the autocancel system.
  25. bkuhr
    I would venture a guess its a leaking rubber plug (freeze plug) behind the cylinder side covers. Easy to check, pull side cover and see if wet or green. If rubber plugs need replaced, they just pull straight out-screw spark plug into threaded part, but have new plug ready to avoid to much coolant loss.
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