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bkuhr

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Everything posted by bkuhr

  1. bkuhr
    I would be interested also. Any thought given wither TPS would be better than VAC sensor?
  2. bkuhr
    Is the 1 exposed pin on the bike side trailer connector a ground as it should be, or is it possibly the running light circuit, bumping the hitch and blowing the fuse.
  3. bkuhr
    You have not specified what bike you have, but yes, on 83-85 left middle light is brake.
  4. bkuhr
    Good luck today Gary.
  5. bkuhr
    Not sure about RSTD, but I would assume carb overflow to be on a drain hose simular to 1st gen. PO states fuel from carbs running down fairings. Sounds like loose pressure/inlet fuel line. Might be a simple as remove air box and tighten loose hose clamp/ring clamp.
  6. bkuhr
    Gary, Good luck with the surgery. Hope all works out with your back. My wife had simular surgery in April, and doc did not get enough first time and had to do it again 5 days later. She had 6 weeks rehab, but now nearly 100%. Don't worry about riding, its too HOT anyway. Brian
  7. bkuhr
    Jeff may be close here. I suspect book is calling for 16-17VAC at the stator output before the rectifier, and about 14-14.5VDC after the rectifier, at the battery.
  8. bkuhr
    Are you sure you do not have actual failure of the high beam circuit, and the RLU is preforming as designed and switching in the low beam circuit when HI is requested?
  9. bkuhr
    I recently sold my 82 yamaha 750 seca for $1100. Was not prettiest, but was in great mechanical shape except tires were dry rot cracking. Very upfront about every thing and advised I would not ride much without new tires. Buyer was new rider with no MC endorsement but he brought a friend to test ride, and his friend was real inpressed with 'sportyness', and told him it was good buy. Have seen it a few times around town, mean to stop him sometime and ask if he is happy. KBB lists for $750 I listed CL and local paper for $1200 figured I would let buyer talk me down to $1000 but we agreed at $1100. I figured, and stated 'where else can you buy any bike for $1000' Thought I made out good, hope you can do the same. Really hated giving it up as it was so reliable and fun, but I decided I need to be 100% in the venture. I bought the venture for $300, but have spent more than $1000 on it, with more to go- and thats not even safety chrome
  10. bkuhr
    I dont think the 85 have a TPS, but does have a vacum sensor used by the TCI for ignition advance. Going along with your thinking, I would first make sure someone has not placed 83 carbs on an 85. Vac port below butterfly on 83 #2, above butterfly on 85 #2. Second, I think I would disconnect vac hose and plug port and see if failure to reach afore mentioned RPM's. If so then vac sensor is advancing when installed, if not then a possible problem with vac sensor/vac tubing. As Op stated he can reach redline in first, so sound to me like ign is advancing, and fuel/air mix is not keeping up. In my opinon, I would suspect an air leak, maybe the bottom boots folded during carb reinstall. Maybe sync plug missing/worn. Would suggest spray carb cleaner.... under carbs during idle listening for rpm change, if so pinpoint leak with carb cleaner. Keep fire ext nearby.
  11. bkuhr
    Sorry took so long WPS#56-9700 NGK#XD05F NGK stock#8072 I paid #3.95 ea The lead-in is a straight 90deg, vs 45deg on the old ones and for me fit lots better. Yes they are taller than old ones but still fit. I also replaced my wires, making them long enough for good routing.
  12. bkuhr
    Independent MC shop in town here carried bunch of different plug caps. I was able to carry my old one in and match up a new resistor cap with a different angle that actually fits my tight 1gen clearance better, and it was NGK. replaced all 4 for about $5 each. Can get you the number later if you want. I saved the boxes out in shop.
  13. bkuhr
    Just to get your "actual" ohms, short your meter leads to each other when on the same ohm scale you used above. This is the lead resistance and needs to be subtracted from your above .9 readings. Normal lead resistance usually .1 or .2 ohms which would put your stator at about .7, still in limits, but a cheap meter with cheap leads may be higher resistance, and could make your stator resistance too low.
  14. bkuhr
    On my 750 book called for .4 ohms between the stator leads, I read .2 ohms and thought just tolerance error, but turns out it was bad and and replacement repaired the problem.
  15. bkuhr
    I have a 24X48 pole barn garage and not big enough, so I also have...er had.....2ea 10x12 sheds. Last nights storm took out 1 of them . (shhh, it was just the wifes yard sale stuff) brought bucket truck home from work and used it to lift tree off, then raise roof that was at about 3feet AGL. She still gonna make me get her another one, guess I got my work cut out for me this weekend.
  16. bkuhr
    I dont have helmet comms on my 83 and not sure how they work, but I would suspect a power problem-low voltage, to the rear controller of the rear controller itself. The idea behind this is you are getting signal from the main control to the rear, just low volume, but it is working. I expect low volts to the rear amplifier, or failure of the rear amp internal power regulator itself. Just a thought being unsure how it really works.
  17. bkuhr
    Mike, these plug caps have resistors inside them. They can be taken apart to inspect the resistors, but if very corroded would recomend to replace the caps. Found some at a non yami mc repair shop for less then $3 each.
  18. bkuhr
    Just thinking out loud-slow return to idle/hard start/smell of gas/good sync sounds like over rich almost flooding to me, need to blow out excess fuel from cylinders before start, too much fuel fed into cylinders during decel. Now what could cause this? Vac leak would cause diaphrams/main jets to open slow-late, wrong problem A plugged vent could cause vacum to be slow to bleed off leaving diaphram and main jet open too much and too long I think I would look at the vent/overflow tubes on the carbs for obstructions such as kinked/pinched hose or bugs in the tubes Along the same idea maybe a piece of debris in the carb under the main needle-might pull the diaphrams/sliders/needles and inspect the needle for wear/scaring from debris, and spray pressurized carb cleaner into needle jet to try to dislodge anything Just my thoughts
  19. bkuhr
    sparkplug socket/ratchet to break loose/tighten. 3" piece of rubber hose that slides over/grips insulators, and spin out-in with fingers.
  20. bkuhr
    bumped the engine stop switch on the right handlebar. check easy thing first!
  21. bkuhr
    The front marker lights do not run thru the CMS(dash LED dispaly), but the rear marker "tail light" and rear "brake light" do. You can start testing at the rear of the CMS, removed windshield and dash cover, and maybe headlight. looking at the long 18 pin connecter in middle of the dash, probe with volt meter or test light. -Top row second left from release tab BLUE wire is battery + from key switch thru tail fuse to both CMS and front marker lights -Top row first left from release tan BLUE/WHITE wire is battery + going thru CMS and coming back out heading to tail(marker lights). this wire runs thru a 6 pin connector near front of seat left side, then a 3 pin connector under seat, then 1 wire bullet connectors at rear of light housings. Needless to say, if you have power into CMS, but not out, then you have a CMS problem attached is internal wiring diagram I made concerning mod to remove coils/switches, but provides pretty good pinout. Looks like a lot of links mod-ing cms, heres mine http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58292 Just a note, jumpering reed switchs eliminates CMS alarms, but current for the actual lighting circuits is thru the coils, and if your problem is in the CMS, it is the coil that needs repaired. likely resolder. My mod is a little different in that I eliminated both reed switchs and coils, and extended reed switch alarm circuits for external activation.
  22. bkuhr

    fork work

    bkuhr replied to darthandy's topic in Watering Hole

    heres a play-by-play pics of my fork rebuild on the bike http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49226
  23. bkuhr
    I assume you mean the white RLU warning light at the top of the dash. RLU is reserve lighting unit and is indication that the main circuit for the headlight is defective, and headlight is being operated by the RLU. The most likely problem is bad circuit in the CMS(LCD display assembly) simular issue here. the tail and brake light circuits run thru wire coils inside the CMS, and appear to be working, the in the middle of these coils are magnetic reed switches that are supposed to activate when the HI/Low/Tail/Brake circuits are turned on. If a circuit is activated, but no current flows (or there is a fault), then the warning light in the LCD turns on. :sign yeah that:You will need to pull the dash, remove and resolder the connections on the CMS search for CMS/CMU repair
  24. bkuhr
    Extract from service bulletin in 83 parts manual The cooling kit consists of two baffles plates to trap oil around the stator, a new rotor bolt with a hole which has been increased from 0.7mm to 1.0mm, and a shaft to prevent the hole in the bolt from plugging. This bulletin also requires one of the mysterious “punch marks” on the engine BTW, I still have a complete kit
  25. bkuhr
    I went back and looked at the test you conducted, and you #s do look good for the most part-nothing suspiciuos to me, but keep in mind that all those test were for wiring and components external the TCI, not the TCI itself. To be frank, I think you have multiple proplems, as I did on my 83. The 27 year old TCI is always a suspect for poor eninge preformance, with no real test for good or bad, but if you open it up and look at the diode side you will likely say " Ya thats got to be the problem", the get fustrateted after fixing it and still not quite right. YES I still think you have TCI problems. I found the idle jet in the bottom of the jet block to have a very,very small port, and very easily plugged. I had my carbs off 5-6 times and tried to run .020 stainless lockwire thru jet which was to big of a wire, and ended up reaming out the jet-and ordering a new one. Need to be 100% every port is open and running clean fuel thru new filter to avoid new dirt in carbs. spark plugs with couple hundred miles on them can be good indicators of how the carbs are working. Dont give up, I find it challenging if fustrating to get it running right but enjoy it- spend about 8 months on mine and its starting to act up again- I think TCI again as I have lost tach above 1500rpm-thinking about jumping into the $200 igntiteck unit. good luck.
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