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bkuhr

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Everything posted by bkuhr

  1. bkuhr
    Ok, mine helmet was HCI. Plastic pull cord had popped out of the red trigger button. ended up held in with bread ties. Entire flip up removed, and inside pulled loose from top down, leaving bottom seam intact. BTW HCI L Black modular with mirror visor for sale cheap
  2. bkuhr
    I had a flip up, dont remember type, that did same thing. found button actually pulled on plastic 'pull cords' to open the lock cams, and 1 side had pupped off the cam. easy enough to put back on, but then did it again 2 weeks later, and got a new helmet. I had to pry up the cover, then glued it back down with headliner cement to get access.
  3. bkuhr
    You are listing a fixed, 2d advance/rpm. Are you not using any kind of throttle position input(MAP or TPS)for a 3d advance curve? I have been playing with an actual TPS where most here with ingitek TCI are using a MAP sensor, but in any case my advance tops out a whole lot faster than yours. Suspect it feels like bogging a little above 3000 rpm. Attached copy of 3d curve I am currently using, but I messed up my last mileage check due to fuel leak-stuck float, but I was running high 30's.
  4. bkuhr
    Pull the speedo cable core out (at the wheel and reattach housing)and ride. If no noise then likely still speedo problem even though you lubed it-maybe gauge itself. If noise still there at least your definitely eliminated speedo. If noise from front wheel low, could be speedo gear internal wheel may need lube.
  5. bkuhr
    Jeff, it is a plastic probe(1"long?) with a carbon/graphite shaft protuding out the end ~1/16" reading voltage of the electrolyte in the cell it is installed, assuming of course that the electrolyte is not at a low level below the tip of the probe. Forget exactly but I believe installed in center cell 3rd from minus, =~6v
  6. bkuhr
    Not familuar with RSV, but my first thought would be a missing or bad conection of a dedicated ground wire from good frame ground to the unpainted metal of the sendor unit itself. Maybe the open circuit is also causing the error code.
  7. bkuhr
    Likely PO tried to cancel the battery light by hooking straight to 12v without resistor and has damaged the CMS. Here is an option for repair http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63495&highlight=repair
  8. bkuhr
    Possible cross interfance from defective trailer light converter.
  9. bkuhr
    FWIW The worst problem with the YICS was the plastic box itself, not the hoses. It would crack in the seams and allow vacum leak to either air or another chamber. If you can put a vac gauge and pump on each port of the box seperately, and each port will hold 10-15in with out dropping, then will will be ok for now. If you ever to suspect vacum problems, then suspect the YICS box.
  10. bkuhr
    First have to have a garage/floor:witch_brew:
  11. bkuhr
    I believe the lastest map versions have been kept updated on post 1 of this main ingitech thread http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40414 They are easy enough to email as needed though.
  12. bkuhr
    heres the post that helped my when I did the same http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48414
  13. bkuhr
    2007
  14. bkuhr
    That did it, thanks
  15. bkuhr
    Messed something up on Outlook and unsure how to fix. usually email is: left-folders,,middle-sender/subject,,right-preview. now: left-folders,,middle-sender/subject,,under middle-preview How do I fix this back? Don't like this current format.
  16. bkuhr
    should be a main reset on the gen assembly itself, not the resets on each plug outlet. probably little round white button.
  17. bkuhr
    Heres a good read for ya http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycle/text/plugwiretech.html I suspect, due to the short length of wires we use, you will be unable to get close to the required (5Kohm) secondary resistance with your proposed carbon wire. Did you find out WHAT failed in the NGK plug caps? I replaced all 4 of my caps with NGK, but preventivly, removed the resistors and coated all metal parts with dielectric grease and reassembled. The grease squezes around all the actual metal contact points allowing contact, but helping prevent any corrosion-ozidation-ionization problems. Have not taken them back apart to inspect, but has been running great for over a year now. Could also consider resistor spark plugs with steel/copper core wires.
  18. bkuhr
    NO reading to ground is good, the coils are not grounded, any reading would be bad.
  19. bkuhr
    http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10640 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51767&highlight=ingitech http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40414&highlight=ingitech
  20. bkuhr
    I would suspect still a vacum leak preventing diaphrams from responding quickly. During idle, spray start fluid (speed up) or carb cleaner (slow down), and listen for change of rpm under carbs, rubber hoses, nipple caps.... to pinpoint a vacum leak. Most segments of LCD screen (4) are related to lighting failure monitors, (headlight High&low, and tail light and brake light) and have a tendency to go bad internal the lcd screen (CMS) itself. Usually cold solder joints that can be repaired with CMS removal. Search for CMS repair or CMU repair. Also a battery monitor segement that needs a battery bypass resistor installed if running a gel cell type battery, vs old wet cell type. Tach operates off the #2 ignition coil, and usually indicates #2 coil is not receiving a signal, and therefore not firing (possible engine preformance problem). Usually caused by corrosion and bad diodes internal the TCI. There is a repair for the TCI and replace diodes, search for TCI repair, but remember-it is about 28 years old. Another option is to upgrade to a new type of ignition control box made by ingitech for about $250 some of us are running. Search for ingitech.
  21. bkuhr
    Going to take some testing to figure out. Will need 1. Fully charged battery 2. A AMP/MILIAMP meter hook up in line (SERIES) with the battery identify a load in excess of about 60mA(clock/radio memory) Then start pulling fuses until excessive load stops. Pulled fuse that stopped excessive load will identify the circuit to look at for the problem.
  22. bkuhr
    Best option is to remove them completely and plug the intake port nipples with sturdy plugs/clamps. YICS is not really needed.
  23. bkuhr
    Suspect if you look down the carbthroats, you will see that butterfies are partially open with throttle closed. Try adjusting sync screws to get butterflies to just barely open and same across all 4. Then you should be able to use your idle screw.
  24. bkuhr
    Been playing with ingitech software. Went for ride around the block to test my latest load. At stop sign I thought to myself "awful rich" due to the gas I could smell, "wonder how my ignition advance changes caused it to be so rich?" (TPS ingitech is running great!) Headed home and pulled into garage, started to back into my park spot, and slipped in pool of gas-it was pouring out right in front or rear tire. Key off and finished parking. Pulled the overflow lines out where I could identify which one was leaking, and identified #4 when pump on. Turned pump off, and rapped on #4 diaphram cover. After big gush of fuel (primed pressure?), fuel stopped. Turned pump back on and still no leak. I may be alright now, possible piece of dirt was stopping float needle I got cleared when rapping on carb, but now leary to take for ride. Any other suggestions to ensure my float is ok now? BTW, heavy dose seafoam in this tank of gas. Been doing it about every 4th tank. Messed up my MPG check:bang head:
  25. bkuhr
    Frank, you are correct. The diagram I have is labeled 83-85, but review of diagrams in libary, 84-85 is different from 83 I have been using. Please disrequard my incorrect info.
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