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bkuhr

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Everything posted by bkuhr

  1. bkuhr
    :sign yeah that:I agree, other than electrical overload (discuss in a minute) only thing I can think of to cause stator to burn, is lack of cooling. Attached pic of OEM directions for install of cooling kit. The wire inside the flywheel bolt hole should be felt within 1/4-1/8" with a small wire pressed into hole. This wire is to prevent clogging of the hole in the bolt. Second, and very important, is a washer shaped plate installed 'around' the bolt and closing up the area around the rotor. Directions show how should be attached. Make sure your cooling kit is properly installed. As for electrical overload. Stock charging system is rated at max 26 amps. Not sure what upgraded system is rated for, but OE regulator is a shunt regulator, in that at all times ALL excess amps from the stator is sent to ground. The load of the bike plus ALL the reserve of the stator equals the max 26A from the stator. This means that the stator is running 100% all the time with out a break. (actually all this applies above about 1800 rpm, below rpm then less amps produced). I believe the recommended upgraded stator and RR also works the same way. Now a problem I could see, In 1983 a bunch of 26A stators were burned out, so Yami developed the oil cooling kit which cooled the 26A enough to prevent burnout. Now a upgraded stator is being used for ~30-50A(I dont know rating), maybe the cooling system designed is not sufficient. If this is a true issue (i not sure), I see 2 options 1. go back to OE 26A stator&RR 2. Find series type regulator which will allow stator to only produce the Amps that are actually needed. There was another thread in discussion about this. No matter you choice, I would recommend you get and "clamp style" amp meter. While waiting for parts learn to use the meter. When you are back together, you would clamp around the white stator wires to actually measure amps from the stator, which is way different than amps to the battery. If running more than OE 26A, I would be worried about burnout again. LET THE DISCUSSION BEGIN
  2. bkuhr
    Not sure if it would make any differance, but gotta ask Do you have a matched stator and rectifier? Meaning do have upgraded stator and stock RR?
  3. bkuhr
    I agree. As far as can be determined it appears that the rectifier section of the RR is ok, no way to test the regulator section. You need to crack the case and see what is wrong with the stator windings. You may also have other issues such as maybe loose rotor.
  4. bkuhr
    .42ohms +-15%@68F, yes point 42, less than 1 ohm. Lowest scale, Short meter leads. Zero meter if possible, otherwise record and subtract any LEAD resistance from measurment of stator wires.
  5. bkuhr
    meter on x1 ohms test red and black leads together meter should swing full left. Adjust thumb screw adjustment to ZERO needle If you have a diode laying around test it both directions see how meter responds You are testing the 3 wires you cut from the stator, except this time the RR side, to the RR big RED and BLACK wires, Per your senerio (small red and black=meter leads, Big Red and Black= RR big wires) w1-red / RR Red-black read Y/N w1-black /RR Red-red read Y/N w2-red / RR Red-black read Y/N w2-black /RR Red-red read Y/N w3-red /RR Red-black read Y/N w3-black/ RR Red-red read Y/N w1-red / RR Black-black read Y/N w1-black /RR Black-red read Y/N w2-red / RR Black-black read Y/N w2-black /RR Black-red read Y/N w3-red /RR Black-black read Y/N w3-black/ RR Black-red read Y/N every other SHOULD have a reading, and the opposite SHOULD NOT
  6. bkuhr
    Gary, first see if you can duplicate dropout- run same route, same agressivness, same outside temp....etc If you can pin down a spot you can duplicate, I suggest you back out v88 software and load v80. I am suspecting problem with IAP option. If v80 works reload v88, but change IAP to TPS running MAP. Then try run with TPS running TPS.
  7. bkuhr
    Not supposed to be blindly probing AMPS and blowing fuses!
  8. bkuhr
    neither, bike off. Only reason for this test is if it also tests bad, you MUST replace RR as well as stator, If it tests good you MIGHT get lucky and not have to replace RR
  9. bkuhr
    Read the RED hash mark scale. Compared with the 0-50 black numbers, the large RED hashes would count 0-5-10-15-20-25-30-35-40-45-50. The small hashes have a value of ONE each when on this scale (5 small hashes between Large Hash 0-5)
  10. bkuhr
    here is rectifier directions
  11. bkuhr
    Looks like really a bad stator, you may find like squeeze said, that something came loose and stator was rubbing against rotor, tearing it up. There is another test in the manual for testing the rectifier(diode)section of the RR. Now that the 3 wires are cut you will use the x1 ohm selector and the green ohm scale. This test only checks 1/2 of the RR. there is no test to test the regulator. If the rectifier test good, the regulator can still be bad. However if rectifier is bad, you KNOW you RR is bad. Will try to find and post the test, easier than typing it all out.
  12. bkuhr
    Mike, before you crack the case again, I would like an additional test. First a little meter training-see attachment, to make sure you are reading the correct scale when doing you AC test. On the 0-50VAC selector, you read the red AC hash marks and line then up with the 0-50 black row of numbers. Also make sure you can not see a reflection of needle in mirror to either side of needle (makes sure looking straight on) Second, do the AC stator test at both idle and high rpm for all 3 wire sets Third, cut your solder joints, seperating the stator wires from the rectifier. Then do the AC test again on the stator side. (It is possible a shorted rectifier is causing low AC readings on the stator, removing the rectifier removes this possibility) Also keep in mind that a bad stator could have blown the rectifier, and a bad rectifier could blow a stator. Replacing any one could be blown again by the other. May consider replacing as a set.
  13. bkuhr
    Does the turn lights come on but not flash? Does the 4 ways work? Does the turn switch feel ok?
  14. bkuhr
    Meter set for 50ACV, read the 3 white wires from the stator. Since your removed the connector, stab thru the 3 white wires from the stator, while idle and fast rpm, 1 wire at a time. Sometimes safety pin is better at stabbing thru wire, then touch meter lead to safety pin. Stagger the 3 stabs, and avoid excessive damage to wire insulation- when done should be able to roll wire in fingers and close stab hole in insulation. Aviod letting safety pin touch ground while doing this. What does each read at idle and fast?
  15. bkuhr
    Go to the advance map and select 2D. Guesstimate % of throttle you have applied at the 3500-4500 stumble. Find that point on the map and drag to a couple degrees higher advance. Hit program, then go for another ride and evaluate the change. Example: stumble felt during hard takeoff using ~30% throttle near 3500 rpm. find the 30% and 3200 point and drag it from 43 to 45 deg advance. Screen shot attached. This is the way to fine tune for your machine.
  16. bkuhr
    While a rubber coating can save some money for now, I have found that any coating at all adds thickness, and stiffness, DRASTICALLY effecting how the diaphrams respond. Effects are even worse when 1 diaphram is treated, and others are not. Then they start to respond at different times and throws sync way off. Ya, treat them for now, but keep in back of mind if having issues, and start saving for 4 new diaphrams.
  17. bkuhr
    idle screw likely under brass plug needs pulled out. (drill small hole, then screw in sheetmetal screw, then pull on screw with pliers to remove plug)
  18. bkuhr
    Remove the 'diaphram cover' on the end of the carb. Under it is a long spring. Then is a black diaphram. Notice the notch/nub for alignment. Reach into carb, and push with finger round gray center thing called a 'slide' to remove it and the diaphram. Hold the diaphram up to light, inspect carefully for pin holes. When installing align daiphram ridge into recess aligning notch/nub. Hold slide with finger to prevent completely depressing, then install spring and cover. Sometimes the diaphram poppes out of the ridge if depressed completely prior to cover tightly secured
  19. bkuhr
    wonder if can be restarted with ingitech. Maybe overheat problem and cooled down. If can be restarted, would be great if can provide screen shots of all the tabs while running.
  20. bkuhr
    Gary, wonder if we remove the adapter harness jumpers combining coils?
  21. bkuhr
    here ya go
  22. bkuhr
    Due to no pressure in handle and no fluid flow out of master, I would have to say the small hole, 'fluid intake and return port' HAS TO BE PLUGGED. Even a bad or reversed cup would push some fluid out the easiest port, the OPEN master output. You are not getting any fluid in front of the cup seal.
  23. bkuhr
    Parts 5 of the attached graphic is a good explnation of how master cylinder works (graphic auto type dual master). http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mastercylinderreplace/howworks.html I think I read a post earlier that you could see cup seal moving past BOTH holes. Per the gra[hic, this would be improper. The big hole 'the equalization port' should always be behind the seal. Also the new seal could be damaged when operated PAST the 'normal' stroke while bleeding into a possible damaged/gooped bore area. Just some suggestions
  24. bkuhr
    Very Sharp Gary, I like.
  25. bkuhr
    You could start making small adjustments to the advance curve in the Ingitech TCI. That was one of the great benefits was that it was programmable. At what RPM and what % throttle roll(estimate of bar1 sensor), does it feel 'sluggish'. Open the software and find that point on the graph and move it a little-increase advance or decrease advance (no more that 2-3 deg advance change) then hit program, then take back out for a ride,better-going right direction, worse-going wrong direction with the advance. One you start to get thinks real close, You may start to notice other spots in a run that could use a little improvement. ie as an example:fast takeoff may feel a burp, equate to high rpm maybe ~4000, high throttle~75%, and adjust that point on the chart.
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