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bkuhr

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Everything posted by bkuhr

  1. bkuhr
    have you bumped the emergency stop on right grip?
  2. bkuhr
    123
  3. bkuhr
    Is the R rear flashing? Already said dash is flashing. Seems flasher circuit is ok. Looking at wiring diagram, appears disconnects on each of 3 wires to remove front turn assembly. Clean the dark Greenwire disconnect, as well as the 2 raised 'pins' in the bottom of the light socket. Also make sure using correct 2 filiment bulb. Not sure but I think it should be a 1157 type bulb.
  4. bkuhr
    hope that doesn't mean another broke reservior!
  5. bkuhr
    Actually, if it is dripping water, don't bake it just yet. Keep it wet-throw in bucket of water until ready to open the screw plate & unsolder the connector pins. The drying out electronics will start corroding- so leave them wet. When all opened up scrub well with nylon bristle brush (tooth brush works well), with rubbing alcohol. Once all clean, hose down with spray electrical cleaner, shake dry, then bake low temp in oven to dry undercomponent areas. After all this, then start the diode replacement, and after seal all raw solder with varnish or clear finger nail polish. Now you can resolder and seal the connector pins putting case back together. Hopefully the transistors are still good.
  6. bkuhr
    most likely, possible repair of diodes needed
  7. bkuhr
    Little bit of operation theory. All 4 lighting circuits, headlight high & low, tail running light, and tail brake light, use a current sensing system. They also share just 2 icons. Big light icon is for headlight faults, and small light icon is for tail light faults. Each of the 4 circuits has a wire coil on the back pc board of the cmu. Each coil creates an electromagnetic force when operating correctly that actuates a glass reed switch within the middle of each coil. The reed switch is Normally Closed to ground, and Opens when activated, working on a biased resistor network creates a High logic voltage when open. One of the IC chips is a quad XOR comparator. The XOR gate monitors both, when a circuit is activated (high voltage), and if the reed switch is activated (high voltage), and sends a output to turn on a fail icon only if 1 input or the other is high. If both inputs are high, (circuit on & working), or both low (circuit off), The XOR remains off and icons are off. The moral of all this is, if by chance there is a large non stock external magnet(such as a speaker magnet) in close proxmity of the cmu, it could affect operation of the reed switches.
  8. bkuhr
    r/w & orange is supposed to be the #1 (left rear) coil ?? (Unless you are refering to the coil side wires, I think all 4 have the same colors) is headed toward the TCI, under the coil shelf behind the battery.
  9. bkuhr
    Ok, it was a volt test while cranking. Was the 2 pin connector attached to coil or disconnected at the time? If attached and you are testing from the back of the pins, you should see the battery 12v as it goes in the red/white wire, thru the coil, and back on the yellow wire (#3,RR coil) waiting for a ground.(typically while ing key on-but not running or cranking) While cranking/running, the yellow wire would be pulsing ground, and a regular volt meter would likely show a moving reading probably somewhere around 6v. You could compare this moving reading with another coil, but not likely very specific answer. test the coil primary (r/w-y wires) 2.7ohms +-10% @ 68degF secondary (high tension-grd) 13.2kohms +-20% @ 68degF next test the pickup coils at the tci connector, I dont remember which pickup wire=which coil. 110 ohms +- 15% @ 68degF and nothing to ground. they are the 6 pin connector on the tci. Test from the black wire to each orange, gray,w/g,w/r If all these good, plan on opening the tci.
  10. bkuhr
    Tach shares #2(left front)coil signal
  11. bkuhr
    Not quite understanding what troubleshooting you have already done. How did you do this? Did you move the High Tension wire from rear to front, or move the 2 pin 12v coil connector rear to front. I ask because the coils on the 83 are completely buried and non-accessable with plastic on. I am assuming this is being done at the 2 pin 12v coil connectors. What is .223 & .612? Is this a volts or ohms reading to ground? This is the coil fire wire and is actually a pulsing ground (simular to points on an old engine) while engine is cranking or running. Most likely you are having issues with the actual TCI. It is upside down on the coil bracket. It needs to be removed anyway for test and repair, and plan to velcro (relocate) on top of air box afterward. Here is a good place to start reading about TCI repair and diode replacement http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51767 Another option would be to replace with another used 29 year old TCI and hope it works, or use a aftermarket tci like this thread http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40414
  12. bkuhr
    Due to my modified Turn Flasher, I know the cancel signal is: normal no turns or start turns=open, turns time out and cancel until hard reset of turn switch, or power cycle of mc=+12v It comes from the cancel relay assy under right fairing, but is most easy accessable at the 3 pin turn signal flasher pin 'C', located behind left front turn lens and under air duct. It only operates after a signaled turn has BOTH, driven 150meters (490 feet) as per the reed switch on the odo, AND 10 seconds. Defined as which ever is longer. I have trouble seeing how this could be used for a fan control. I agree with Flyingfool, your system is working correctly while cycling, but if you have a reason for pursuing this, 1. I might suggest that the fan temp switch control a time delay relay (easy to use a standard relay and create a RC (resistor/capicator) time delay). Then the delay relay controls the fan relay. The delay could be set for what ever felt right-3 minutes or so, or even be adjustable with a variable resistor. 2. second suggestion would be for some air pressure switch capable of sensing forward movement above ~5mph would cause your latching relay to latch pic is my working modified flasher for LEDs
  13. bkuhr
    On the 83 ONLY, there was a special port 'above' the butterflies on the left front carb, as well as the sync ports on the manifolds. This was done away with on all later models. This port WILL NOT work for current ingitech mods, because it has the wrong vacum signal above the butterflies. Gary included a plug for capping off the 83 port, For ingitech, all models use a manifold port.
  14. bkuhr
    I think the rule was no pictures, it didn't happen:stirthepot: http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/IMG_2419sr.jpg I think it is too late now:doh:
  15. bkuhr
    Here is wire pinout of the plug Backstab with ohm meter the effected circuits, (sidestand, brake level, engine oil level) and check for ground. This would give us indication if problem is from bike or internal cmu. Headlight would be tested for volts in and volts out. As for tach, I had a slow tach that needed lube of the mechanics. I over did it an ruined the electric board on the tach. Use light amount of instrument oil (3in1) and work needle by hand. Also lube speedo mechanics, and grease in the speedo cable head. I also lubed my volt and temp gages. Make sure needle of gages are on correct side of stop pins before reassemble
  16. bkuhr
    Did you split the borads in the cmu? I am suspecting corrosion such as pic needs fixed
  17. bkuhr
    Be very careful opening that plug. More than a few have broke their entire resorvior when the plug would not break free. If it won't open easily, I would remove resorvior where you can work on it. Once you get plug loose, add anti-seize to the thread.
  18. bkuhr
    oiling system should cover the stator 1/2 plug is inspection cover for checking ignition timing
  19. bkuhr

    Gauges/Tach color?

    bkuhr replied to a topic in Watering Hole

    I love my white dash gages, backlight shows thru well and lights everything up, BUT- I frequently have a nasty glare from the gages when the sun is over a shoulder.
  20. bkuhr
    Great job! Reason oem horn was allowing feedback, is because both it and the new relay coil were both wired to the pink button wire. To fix the problem, unhook the orginal wiring from the oe horn, (tape it up and tuck it back into the harness), and wire it up to the same relay, the same way as the new air horn. That way when the relay powers up, it applies power to both horns, and both horns have a direct ground on their other side.
  21. bkuhr
    Maybe not. On the xj750 I had, book called for .7 ohms and I measured .4 ohms and thought 'close enough'. Turned out is was a bad stator, although his AC volt readings due appear to be proper. I agree to figure out lead resistamce and subtract from reading.
  22. bkuhr
    Its a long shot, but sounds like every thing else has been done, so I will throw it out there for consideration. Has there been any work done to the heads or valves where maybe a cam chain is off by 1 link? (out of valve timing) Could also be a problem with a cam chain adjuster or guide allowing slack in a cam chain. It may be time to pull valve covers and timing inspection cap, and just verify the cams line up at crank TDC, especially the rear cam with problems of cyl #4.
  23. bkuhr
    I would expect loss of a main cmu ground to cause the cmu to fail to display anything.
  24. bkuhr
    Glad all working. How has the humidity been? I would suspect with the sudden problem, then sudden clearing of the problem, that you have corrosion internal the cmu, and high humidity causes some of the detector circuits to short to ground thru wet corrosion. Then it drys up and works fine. I would plan on a non-riding weekend to pull the dash and cmu. Clean any corrosion with electrical contact cleaner and nylon brush or pencil eraser. Then reseal exposed solder joints with varnish or wifes fingernail polish. I prefer clear-the natural look seems so much better:)
  25. bkuhr
    PINK is supposed to be ground from, and only when button is pressed
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