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looks to me like it might be the actual fuel pump connector

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1999/V-MAX%201200%20-%20VMX12L/SHIFT%20CAM%20FORK/parts.html parts 6,7,13

yes, upgrade to list of parts in post #5 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40604 If cant get pins, I read someone had cut some pins down

The top pin bracket is bent and the pin is about to come out. Should consider the shift segment upgrade to the 1 piece segment on later year models. I also agree with Dingy, pin found from shift segment, likely previous owner replaced one that had fallen into the pan.

1 to 3 phase VFD should do the trick here is a option on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/HIGH-QUALITY-3HP-2-2KW-10A-220-250V-VARIABLE-FREQUENCY-DRIVE-INVERTER-VFD-NEW-a7-/300652886556?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item46004efa1c

Where is your float level set to? Mine is set here-about in line with choke shaft

Did you ensure you set fuel levels when the carbs were exactly level?

Have the dash lamps been replaced with LEDs? If so a very light cross connection would allow a LED to light at nearly full brightness, where a incandescent bulb would just barley glow and not be visible. The High beam indicator is directly wired to the RLU, and depending on how the RLU has been bypassed it could be an issue here, otherwise the high beam indicator signal comes from the CMU, and if there is corrosion on the boards inside the CMU, this could account for a possible cross. This will require access the the rear of the dash to troubleshoot. Study the wiring diagrams in the Tech library to try to find where the cross ground is coming from.

Max rating for 14AWG is 32 amps. Not much leeway for surges, and routing, and sharp bends of the wire could effect its cooling ability, but yes- for intermittent duty, this wire should be fine.

Well, I can not determine a specific polarity from the pic. It may be that it does not matter. If you pulled a brush, and find that it rides 90deg to armature, direction would not matter. If you find that a brush rides at an angle to the armature, then there would be a preferred rotation direction You could also power the compressor in both directions, and verify the same air output in each direction. If you find a difference the higher output direction would be correct.

Looks like you really are pulling 30 amps- Is this a Train Horn:thumbsup2: Fuse should be rated slightly higher than the load. I would install a 35 amp fuse. Now you have to ensure you have the proper wire size for a 30 amp load, or the wire could overheat and melt or burn. For a 30 amp load you need at least 12awg wire, and consider using 10awg wire. Also need to ensure the relay you are using is rated for 30 amps, or the contacts could fuse closed, leaving the horn blaring. Make sure the big wire is used from battery to relay, relay to compressor +, and compressor - to frame.

Does this mean you read zero ohms from terminal to body, or no ohms (infinity) from terminal to body? As for specific + and - terminals, it is possible it does not matter. and chance of posting a picture? Sometimes a specific + terminal would be brass colored and a - terminal silver colored.

As we are suspecting compressor is pulling more than 20 amps, then yes- the 10amp meter fuse will blow. Best not to do this test. Would be better if you could get a DC amp clamp. verify with ohms compressor coil resistance across both wire connections, and wire connections to compressor case, all with compressor unwired. 1st short your leads to each other and measure ohms, likely around .1 ohms. This is lead resistance. Subtract this reading from readings taken on the compressor.

A volt meter must be hooked in parallel. The Amp meter is hooked in series (in line). A Ohm reading 'in line' is useless as you are applying external battery across the ohm scale, and stand a very good chance of damaging the meter. First lets test your Amp meter. Set meter leads in the ports for amps- red lead usually has a different port for amps than normally used for volts and ohms. There may be 2 different ports, one for amps and one for mA milliamps. Put red lead into Amps port. Black lead usually remains in the same common port used for volts and ohms. Now put meter in highest Amp scale, and touch leads to a 9v transistor radio battery, Red to battery plus and black to battery negative. Meter should show 2-3 amps. If not the internal fuse in the meter may be blown, and would need replacement. This fuse is used just for Amps readings, and the meter would still work volts and ohms with the blown fuse. Assuming the meter is ok, the compressor should turn with the meter in series and set up for amps, if it turns without the meter.

Yes, you could take the ground lead off the compressor, attach Amp meter plus to the compressor, and amp meter negative to the removed ground lead or frame ground. Ensure leads are in the correct AMP ports of the meter, and Amp scale set to highest possible.

Very concerned your picture shows .1 ohms across the wiring points. Looks like one side shows to ground and the other side to +12v. Ohms Law states that this is 120 Amps on a 12 volt system. The quality of your meter can easily effect this reading. You could also wire a meter with at least a 30 Amp scale in series with the compressor and read amps directly. I would recheck this reading, and I would expect about .8 ohms or a little higher, which would equate to 15 Amps on a 12 volt system. Next I would check both wiring points to the compressor frame. Assuming the frame is not designed to also be ground (should not be if it has dedicated ground wiring point). The expected reading would be very high (5M ohms+) to infinity.

I don't have a starter apart to verify your reading. The shunt field should have a high resistance, but 3.4 million ohms seems to me to be excessive, almost an open. Test the bus bars of each winding (coil/pole) of the stator and see if the resistance is about 850 K ohms, (apx 1/4 of the total 3.4 M ohms of the 4 poles wired in series). If this comes out correct, then I would confirm your 3.4 M ohms to be correct. The only other issue could be a break down of the windings insulation, really need to be tested on a growler. Try to find a motor rebuild shop to due this test.

It would help to know what model/year bike we are talking about, but my first thought would be a issue with the hazard switch, possibly unplugged or defective contacts.

Here is an excellent interactive spread sheet to find what shims you need http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43410

1993 ZR-1 Spyder on loan from General Motors 2009 ZR1 “Blue Devil” on loan from General Motors The other six vehicles were owned by the National Corvette Museum including: 1962 Black Corvette 1984 PPG Pace Car 1992 White 1 Millionth Corvette 1993 Ruby Red 40th Anniversary Corvette 2001 Mallett Hammer Z06 Corvette 2009 White 1.5 Millionth Corvette

http://www.bgdailynews.com/news/bg-man-shot-in-craigslist-transaction-gunman-flees/article_a7b2d694-57ca-57fb-830c-505be44d55e9.html In my town of Bowling Green KY. Unbelievable. Please take care and recommendation of meeting for sale in bright public area may be safer. BG man shot in Craigslist transaction; gunman flees Posted: Tuesday, January 21, 2014 10:30 am BG man shot in Craigslist transaction; gunman flees By MONICA SPEES The Daily News mspees@bgdailynews.com 783-3246 bgdailynews.com | 0 comments Authorities are looking for a man involved in a shooting Monday night in Bowling Green. Kentucky State Police Post 3 troopers and detectives responded to a residence in the Southern Sky Circle area after a shooting was reported. When they arrived, Roger D. Carroll, age and address unavailable, was in a neighbor’s backyard with a gunshot wound to his leg, according to a KSP news release. Carroll had been trying to sell a motorcycle using the online site Craigslist, and a man claiming to be a buyer shot Carroll in the leg and stole the motorcycle, the release said. Carroll was taken to Vanderbilt University Medical Center in Nashville. Because Carroll is the victim of a violent crime, Vanderbilt will not release any information about him. Trooper Jonathan Biven, spokesman for Post 3, said it’s important to use caution when using the Internet to buy and sell items. “Anytime you use the Internet to conduct business, you take a risk,” Biven said. “Dealing over the Internet is potentially dangerous.” Because sellers often deal with people they don’t know, not only is violence a possibility, but fraud as well, Biven said. “Sometimes people are there to commit a crime, not just to buy your product,” Biven said. Biven suggested people use PayPal for payment over the Internet rather than meeting someone in person. If a seller chooses to meet a buyer in person, Biven said the meeting place should not be at the seller’s residence and should be in a well-lit public area. — Follow police and crime beat reporter Monica Spees on Twitter at twitter.com/BGDNcrime or visit bgdailynews.com.

Gary, so sorry for your loss Brian

been receiving a bunch with address: paypal @ E.paypal.com I forwarded to the paypal spam link, and they did confirm the E. address was spam. I then created a rule to dump all from this address to a spam folder.

I think primary reason for junction box on non-cruise, is because Both ends, throttle and carb, have rather large 90deg fittings that would not thread thru the bike very well. using the junction box allows one end of both cable sets to be straight, making easy threading thru the bike. Guess decision depends if proper cables ends can be threaded thru frame on hybrid.

Looks like the double coil that should be for the tail light circuit. Check the solder connections on the other side are not melted. I would probably reflow them anyways.