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bkuhr

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Everything posted by bkuhr

  1. bkuhr
    Well that is interesting, how current can flow the the coil primary, and be induced on the secondary, when the ground (tci) side of the primary is an open circuit with the tci unplugged. There must be some way for the primary current to 'leak' thru the coil to ground. I still doubt this is a real problem, especially if all four coils preform the same, but now I am curious how you are detecting the 'slight current at the plug'
  2. bkuhr
    Even with start cutout relay removed, coils and tci still are receiving power in the on position. The ground safety cutoff on the sB wire is removed due to missing start cutoff relay, and tci will not operate, but there could be leakage across the power transistors feeding each coil primary internal the tci, or across each primary itself thru leaky coils. I do not think this is any issue to worry about, but would be curious if this continued with tci unpluged.
  3. bkuhr
    It seems shorted diodes internal the start cutout relay assemby is causing the problem, still possible after start cutout relay energizes, there is another problem further downstream that could cause a short, but it feel at this time it is unlikely, and a new start cutout relay assy should repair your problem. Good job troubleshooting so far. I do not have an RSV, so I am relying only on wiring diagrams in assisting you.
  4. bkuhr
    sounds like it probably is bad. Remove it and see if fuse stops blowing give it a 'sniff test'-elect burnt smell, replace for sure
  5. bkuhr
    All right, sum up again so we are on the same page. TCI and Fuel pump is unplugged, and still blows ing fuse when start button pressed. Does not blow fuse when emergency stop is STOP, and starter does crank. Does this sound correct? I dont have wiring diagram in front of me now, but I believe we are left with just some relays and wiring. Left start with also diconnect the start cutoff relay. It could be something downstream from when this relay is active, but would give a starting point that does not blow fuse. (or vice versa, quickly isolate problem at/near this relay)
  6. bkuhr
    also disconnect the fuel pump and try
  7. bkuhr
    This one could be difficult to identify. To sum up, ignition fuse blows when start button pressed when emergy stop switch is in normal run position. Does not blow when start button pressed and emergy stop is on STOP position, but starter does turn properly. This eliminates starter and solenoid as problem. Looking for items energized when start button pressed and emerg stop norm, but not when emerg stop is STOP. 2 items look to meet this condition. The fuel pump, and the TCI. Replace ing fuse, and disconnect first the fuel pump then the TCI, and try to see if fuse blows. Could also be wiring problems, or other relays. Go ahead and remove cowlings. You may spot a damaged wire, and will need access for further troubleshooting.
  8. bkuhr
    The caps have inside resistors, the caps should have a built in resistance of about 10kohms. If significantly higher, likely the resistors are corroded/melted. The plug end can be opened with screwdriver and resistors/pieces removed. You can try to clean with pencil eraser. Don't loose small pieces. I found it easier to just replace all 4 caps.
  9. bkuhr
    As you figured out, a ground on the the b/w will kill the ignition. This comes from the sidestand relay, and requires relay to energize to remove the kill ground. To energize the relay the relay coil must receive a ground from EITHER the sidestand switch (all 3 wires connected to each other when up, 3rd wire for cmu lcd) OR a ground from the neutral switch in Neutral. These two switches are seperated by a diode to prevent cross interferance. Suggest to repair the b/w wire and the problem circuit, because it IS for your safety, to prevent taking off with side stand down!!.
  10. bkuhr
    Well I blew that one. I was thinking when I asked you to check for power on r/w, that WAS testing the sidestand and other safety systems. I completely forgot about the b/w wire from the side stand relay. Sorry. Good job on figuring it out yourself! Do you now have all 4 cylinders firing? Have ya had chance to test your orginal TCI?
  11. bkuhr
    No, that does not appear to be a tci to me, no power transistors, I have strd 83, so not sure what that really is, maybe cruise module or someing I don't have. If you want to dig the TCI out of your parts bike, it is mounted upside down on the plate the coils are on, behind the battery.
  12. bkuhr
    Don't use butt splices. Solder splices are worth their time in gold. Depending on how badly PO butchered wiring, you will likely need to extend some wires to reach the new fuse block. Try to find spare wire #1 priority same or larger gauge, #2 try to match same colors. Get heat shrink tubing at radio shack, harbor freight, electronic supply... Solder splice wires and cover with shrink tubing. I also remove the insulation on crimp terminals, then both crimp and solder, then heat shrink.
  13. bkuhr
    83 was a unique animal. It detectes vacum for advance from above the butterflies of #2 carb. 84 and later detects from below butterflies. not sure about vmax, DINGY, member here but at international has highly modified 83 with vmax head and cams &vboost, and would know better about the vmax program. What many of us has done is installed a programmable unit from INGITECH. see this thread http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=593206&postcount=249 This unit is also usable with the vBoost. I do have my OE 83 TCI I could loan you, I was saving as emergency spare, and did not run perfect, but if interested PM your address.
  14. bkuhr
    Don't forget to clean wires at grommet, slide wires in and out thru grommet, and coat wires with black rtv to ensure oil tight seal around wires at grommet.
  15. bkuhr
    At a minimum you have insulation damage to the wire, and it may be actually cut. either way, go ahead and cut it at the damage. Clean very well with degreaser, brake cleaner works well. Slide on a piece of heat shrink tubing, can be bought at radio shack or harbor freight or electronics supply store. Strip 1/4-1/2" insulation both sides of cut and solder splice the wires back together. Then slide the preinstalled heatshrink over the splice and heat to shrink.
  16. bkuhr
    I assume this is the meter RadioShack® 29-Range Digital Multimeter Model: 22-813 | Catalog #: 22-813 I downloaded this book, not the clearest This is an auto ranging meter that should be in auto mode when turned on. Just select ohms and test. Be very sure of symbols in display during test. ohm=~0-500 ohms, Kohm=~.5k(500 ohms)-500k(500,000ohms), Mohm= simular in million ohms. This meter also has option to lock into manual range mode. Again, watch the display. Looks like per book you would want to lock into 400ohm range for reading 0-400 ohms. Watch the symbols as above, as well as decmial point. For very low expected readings (less than 10 ohms), short the leads together and note the reading. This is the lead resistance. Appears to be .3ohms per your post. Subtract .3ohms from test readings for actual values compared to books. Tempature also frequently affects resistance. Usually books rated at~68F room temp. Meter should be stable at same temp.
  17. bkuhr
    swelled resistors almost guaranteed to have changed their values to the point the the entire circuit is unusable. Now possible damage to transistors and IC chips. Can try to replace swelled resistors, but would not hold breath. Do you know resistor color code? Also need proper watt ratings (size)of replacements.
  18. bkuhr
    You can use ohm meter to verify all solder connections to traces, but I have never researched proper points on PCB to test for proper voltage levels-sorry. check for power on red/whitewhile cranking-maybe start-cutout safety sytem blocking ignition for some reason while cranking.
  19. bkuhr
    Earlier said water was pouring out. Minerals in water must be completely removed. Use above diagram to test all parts too the tci. But I suspect you will need to clean TCI again. Needs complete scrub with alchohol and nylon brush to remove a traces of minerals (iron) in water that may bridge between solder points and between legs of IC's and components. Then high pressure rinse with electrical contact cleaner for any area's under IC chips and components missed wth brush Then bake to completely dry everything, including under IC's.
  20. bkuhr
    I would suspect a problem with the diode repair. You are aware diodes do have a polarity and can only go in 1 way? Did you clean the pcb and bake it? Did you do goos solder work without overheating?.....many things could be. Use chart from link in post 49 to test all to tci plug- then redo tci again. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=12414&d=1190758505
  21. bkuhr
    With key switch on-yes
  22. bkuhr
    suppliment #2 of the manual includes good troubleshooting instructions and diagram http://home.centurytel.net/malizia/RS/Manual/CH00-SuppManual02.pdf I guess you have a wiring problem. Last guy I helped with rsv horn problem found mouse nest and chewed wires behind faring.
  23. bkuhr
    Flasher has only 1pole (output) wired BEFORE the turn switch. Then turn switch selects left or right, completes a ground thru BOTH forward and rear bulbs. Front and Rear appear to be spliced together in the wire harness. If the rear works but not the front, it must be defective wiring/connectors. FYI, the flasher will only put 12v on line and start flashing, when load of lamps are sensed & trigger of auto-cancel is started(temporary ground thru another contact (1 for L& 1 for R) in turn switch when switch activated). Suggest remove turn relay and jumper a wire from brown to brown/white. This will apply continous 12v to the turn switch and allow you to test for volts everywhere all the way to front and rear bulbs.(they just wont flash). If the bulbs work steady with jumperwire, then likely either problem with autocancel signal(clean turn switch contacts) or problem with flasher itself. This likely does not apply though if the rear bulbs works ok-Flashing, then the front should also.
  24. bkuhr
    here is link to wiring diagram http://home.centurytel.net/malizia/RS/Manual/CH08-Electrical.pdf This comes out of 97-01 RSV service manual in the 2nd gen tech library. again- is the right dash and tail flashing?
  25. bkuhr
    Assuming that both the right dash light and the rear right turn light IS flashing, then the only place that could cause the front right NOT to flash would be a broken wire. Any recent work that could have caused a pinched wire somewhere?
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