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bkuhr

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Everything posted by bkuhr

  1. bkuhr
    Glad it was so easy. NOW while the passages are open, it is time to run heavy dose of seafoam. Plan to replace plugs again afterward.
  2. bkuhr
    Assuming this is 22.8-23,000 ohms (kiloohms) I would say your caps and coil secondarys are good. Could still have issue with coil primarys or coils break downwith heat. FYI, the sparkplug side of the cap has screwdriver slot for unscrewing the brass fitting inside. Behind the fitting are resistor, spring, and 2 small flat brass washers. Might try spark test, grounded plug where you can watch electrode, comparing all four cylinders looking for weak or non spark on the bad cylinders.
  3. bkuhr
    These engines are rock solid, and I would not read to much into compression #s. My #s were about the same, but when I finally got it to start pulling on all cylinders, the low ones started coming up. In my opinion, both the ignition and the carbs are very finickey. ignition-check spark cap and wires, I found corrosion and bad resistor here ignition-flakeyTCI, I found bad diodes here-find someone to try swap with. The ingtitech option is the best but cost ~$250, Do relocate the TCI to top of airbox, you will be glad you did. ignition-cracked coils-try coil swap Earl suggested, must swap the 2 wire connector on coils as well as the HV lead.(keep track of where these started at, suggest paint marker both halves of 2wire connector cylinder#) carb-I have cleaned my carbs 3 times, finally running pretty good but still can't adjust idle mix on 2. My mgp is 30(suspect I have sync and main fuel higher than normal to compensate for no(plugged)idle mix on, sucking main fuel at idle and killing my mpg. I plan to buy ultrasonic tank and try again-just not during riding season. carb-sync is a must, buy a 4cyl sync tool. You will be glad you did. Every time you get something fixed(ign, carb) and it finally starts pulling, your sync will be off from where it was when a cylinder was not pulling carb-vacum leaks. Leaks screw up everything how a carb works. I spray ether(start fluid) under carbs and listen for RPM increase, try to hit all fittings&hoses. If so pinpoint where leak is at.
  4. bkuhr
    My feeling is your compression is not a major problem, but if you feel the need a more useful test would be with a leakdown tester http://www.harborfreight.com/cylinder-leak-down-tester-94190.html and you can even hear where leaking air is coming from, ie:exhaust=exhaust valve, carbs=intake valve, crank case breather=rings Recommend you do not even try to reuse valve cover gasket.
  5. bkuhr
    With cap removed should be 10K +- 10% Testing thru the coil would add secondary coil resistance of 13.2k +-20%, and the hot lead of the coil actually makes is way back to the IGNITION fuse, not ACCY fuse.
  6. bkuhr
    True AT&T DSL limit is 18,000 copper cable feet from the DSLAM or Central Office based on 24awg cable(6Meg). The DSLAM is 'typically' located at the same place as the 'distribution station' that we call a cross box. Most telco cable in metro is 24 and 26 awg. In rural usually 24 and 22 and sometimes waaaay out 19 awg. The bigger 22 and 19 awg allows even longer DSL reach. We have some DSL working as far as 30,000ft at slower rates(700k-1.5m). The biggest problem, is on long cable routes, at every 6000 ft is installed load coils to balance impedance for voice POTS. DSL will not pass thru a load coil. Not to difficult for a tech to remove loads, but they have to be motivated to go to the trouble. Easier to just say it does not pass. (effect on voice POTS of removed coils is not noticable-with conditions) A&T is also deploying IPTV, but the limit is 2500ft on 24awg. Typically in metro or subdivision. Limited 'fiber to the curb' sites, and even less 'fiber to the house' sites The service tech has the authority to qualify your wire pair as good for dsl if it can be made to pass the tests. Suggest order POTS service and talk to the technician who comes out and hooks it up.
  7. bkuhr
    The spark plug CAP has a resistor inside. With meter, OHM out inside of cap to frame ground. Forget exact spec but I think it should be about 2000 ohms (compare to one of the others) If way high, or just plain open, it would account for weak spark. The cap can be unscrewed from the wire, and the resistor can be removed from inside the cap for cleaning of corrosion(watch small parts and spring), but likely I would just get a new cap from MC dealer for about $5.
  8. bkuhr
    Think I had one in sundays paper, will look when I get home. Its your unless I already trashed it sorry, gone in trash
  9. bkuhr
    Wonder if he selected TPS, or still selected IAP?
  10. bkuhr
    Continue to use the v75 tcip4a software'driver' to load the, or any, .ing map. v88 tcip4a software includes setting for IAP,TPS, or NONE as apposed to v75 and v80 was just TPS or NONE. IAP is Indicated Air Pressure or MAP sensor, used on same pins as orginal TPS(only use one or other) any .ing map, including v88 can be loaded on v88, v80, and I assume v75, but specific data such as IAP would just be lost as it is not used in the tcip4 version software. No real need to buy v88 unless you want to play with the IAP vs TPS settings. Actually something not quite right with v88 .ing IAP files, and directing folks to load v80 .ing files on their v88 hardware and select TPS (using MAP sensor) to correct cutout problems.
  11. bkuhr
    Just got email from DHL Inc. Says failed delevery attempt and print attached .zip and contact support Notice about 15 versions of to address, and no from address. Looked for email link for dhl web site to forward to them to investigate, but just find email form to fill out i strongly suggest link NOT be opened screenshot attached
  12. bkuhr
    This is TRUE, ATT does own the cable that was SWBell. ATT owns and maintains this cable, but other providers (resellers) can lease it 1 pair at a time and sell service to a customer. This reseller service is for Plain Old Telephone Service only. ATT got an agreement with FCC they did not have to lease DSL to resellers. The decals are only changed when a wire tech works on a closure for some reason. Need to order POTS landline service, and provide 911 address, expain never had service-new house. Would also be helpfull to provide neighbors phone number as a "near by number". Using the 'near by' they may approve a DSL order also, but even if not, when POTS tech shows up have him test and qualify for DSL.
  13. bkuhr
    Loose battery connection, even though it 'feels' tight. Take plus and neg apart, sand battery lugs and wire terminals until shiny, reattach and retighten
  14. bkuhr
    Have AT&T landline phone? Call in trouble 'line is noisy'. When ATT technician gets there have him test for DSL ability considering neighbor DSL only 1/4 mile away. Tech should have equipment to do link and speed test back to DSLAM, and should be able to state the rate it could get, and should be able to 'Qualify' your line for DSL service. Maybe you really are to far and will not be able to get DSL service. The issue may be that att has decided to convert ATM based DLAM to IP based DSLAM to help get traffic off the ATM switched network. When an ATM dlsam is full (max allowed customers), it is capped out and no new customers allowed, and will not increase capacity until converted. Lately $'s for conversions have been very tight. If this is the case, just keep checking back. Some one will not pay bill or disconnect and free up a port. Would still need to have your line qualified to place an order. Also one day conversions will be completed and should free up capped sites.
  15. bkuhr
    Everyones harness from ingitech had 2 empty pins. These 2 wires are where the OE pressure sensor wires are located on the bike side OE plug. The pressure sensor is a Manifold Air Pressure sensor(MAP). The third wire to the OE sensor is hard wired in the bike to 12vdc. This is the reason it was determined early on NOT to use the OE MAP sensor, a failure could put 12vdc directly on the ingitech input that is only rated for 5vdc. Verify the wiring of your harness. They have been know to be wrong from ingitech. pic attached. A new GM MAP sensor would be wired to 20pin connector on pins 6,7,17 as indicated, and a new vacum tube attached to the lower plugged port on the manifold. You will not use the port that has the current vac tube. send email for copy of v80 .ing map to load
  16. bkuhr
    IAP is indicated air pressure. This is the setting to use with the GM MAP sensor. TPS is Throttle Position Sensor. TPS was the only option with the v80 and v75 versions, but was still used with the MAP sensor. Dingy should chime in a can provide you a copy of latest .ing map, or I can when I get to my home PC this evening. Will likely need email address-don't think we can send these maps by PM. We currently seem to be having better success using the v80 .ing map with the v88 hardware and the GM MAP sensor. Receiving reports of ignition cutouts using the v88 .ing map.
  17. bkuhr
    Just the contact with power will light up the test light. The other contact is ground. This IS correct. This is what the horn button contacts are supposed to be doing, but it appears you may have a problem with the ground contact or wiring.
  18. bkuhr
    If you have power at the switch contacts, then you DO have power at the horns, no need to check. The problem is 1, you do not have ground on the other switch contact, or 2- the diaphrams of the horns are jammed(they are working but cant blow) To test 1-, apply a jumper wire from frame ground or battery minus to the switch contact that had power. Horns should blow. Y-bad ground wire to the other switch contact. N-jammed horns, try to blow/shake them out
  19. bkuhr
    To expand on this, battery plus +, runs through the key switch in ON position only. Then it runs thru the 'signal fuse'. Then it runs to one side of each stock horn(assuming OE wiring and horns-if some had done an upgrade, may run thru a relay). The battary + then runs thru the coils of the horns and up the wire going to the horn button. With a volt meter set on a scale to read 12vdc, and the meter black lead (com)on battery or frame - (NEG), the red lead of the meter should be able to read 12v at any and all these locations all the way up to one of the horn button switch contacts. The other contact should be ground, and can be read with the red lead of the meter, but meter set for OHMS, lowest x1 scale, should read less than 2 ohms(black lead sill on battery - or frame).
  20. bkuhr
    Not sure this is what is needed, but here is the top bushing I used 3JJ-23125-00
  21. bkuhr
    My biggest thought is vacum leaks. Spray ether or start fluid under carb rack while idling and listen for rpm change-then pinpoint spot. Second, running OE or aftermarket ignition really should use some type of load or demand sensor such as the MAP sensor. The basic timing map is fair for normal cruise or slow, steady throttle changes. Sudden changes effecting load on the engine (getting on semi-hard, or quick roll off), are not detected and spark advance can't keep up with what is required, and you get the POP with the late spark. Maybe reason same issue with OE tci is maybe OE sensor is bad, and you have not installed another sensor to wotk with the aftermarket tci. My thoughts:2cents:
  22. bkuhr
    Here is part list from my 83 rebuild last year. Dont remember for sure but I think I ordered for either bikebandit or boats.net. bottom bushing 3JJ-23171-00
  23. bkuhr
    Yes, For the most part, ignition maps were made (by us) to try to simulate the written maps that could be located in the books, which, at best would be a replacement for OE. No promise that the map even matches what the OE TCI did. Other than the current cutout glitch, which appears to be related to v88 IAP option, temporay corrected by loading old v80 maps, I think Gary and Todd, and Tim did great work creating maps that would work as well as they do. Now that we have programmable units, we have the opportunity to fine tune units to our bikes. For those who are willing to play with the programming, changes of just a couple of degrees advance at noticable trouble spots will likely make a world of differance overall, and when a great map is created, it can be shared to others with simular setups.
  24. bkuhr
    Garyz, I see you have the big vmax cams. I would suspect your ignition map needs a little bit of adjustment. If you are able to get into the programming, you could advance your timing a few degrees around 3200rpm & 10-20% throttle or IAP(cruise)
  25. bkuhr
    that plastic elbow is the bowl drain. The large screw in that port is the drain screw and should be closed snug. As well as draining carbs, is is used to check float fuel level. As in my pic, with clear hose attached to plastic nipple, and curved up above top of carbs, drain screw is opened and fuel level shows in the tube, should be about the level of my blue lines on diaphram covers. Also in my pic is the idle needle screw you seek, it my be unber a brass plug that needs drilled out.
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