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bkuhr

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Everything posted by bkuhr

  1. bkuhr
    OH NO! I bet you feel sick Quess we was right about broken pink wire, but I would have never guessed broken in such a manner. Gary, DINGY, on here has some OE type 3 pin connectors that he got from INGITEK. Ingitek also offers other connectors, and I would guess they have OE matching 6pins you will need. Maybe Gary can ID type of connector and search for a USA source (digikey...) I would recommend cut damaged wires back, and solder splice and shrink sleeve wire extensions, then attach new pins, and insert into new connectors. Try to find matching wire colors and gauges to use for extensions. May be easier to get OE wire harness for wreck yard or ebay, cutting connectors off with long enough wire to make soldier repairs.
  2. bkuhr
    i added info to previous post but do not know where the 20 pin connector is.
  3. bkuhr
    Ok, 11 volts on PINK wire at horn but not on PINK wire at horn button. This pink wire is broken somewhere between the button and the horn. Not sure but there may be a disconnect somewhere, will have to look at specific wiring diagram appears to run thru 6 pin connector end of handlebar controls, and a 20 pin main harness connector, I have no idea where. backstab a ground wire into each 1/2 of these connectors on the pink wire with key on Horn should blow, if not the connector half that does/does not will isolate bad section If no blow at either side of 20 pin connector(closest to horns-electrically), then the pink wire is broken/burned between 20 pin connector and horns. There is also a 3 way splice in the harness between 20pin and 2ea pinks to each oe horn. Could have problem here but unlikely.
  4. bkuhr
    I do not have cruise on my strd 83, so not real famiular with operation, but I would advise against "tricking" cruise into working in a manner that could not be disengaged in an emergency. Having said that, and not examining wiring for 83 cruise, I would think it would be possible to "hook both cruise wires together" in the switch column, and cut them further down in the wire harness where you would have room to mount a relay. A relay could be wired with the 'cruise' wires accross the N.C. contacts, and the front brake switch activates the relay coil. This would allow the relay to preform the same action during front brake activation as if the switch actually had 2 sets of contacts 1-N.O. for brakes 2-N.C for cruise (assuming these are the contacts of the 4 wire switch, diagram unseen) edit- cant find wiring diagram of 83 w cruise so looking at 86 You could connect the N.C. wires G/Y and B/W together Then find the B/W wire on the way to, or at, the cruise switch and cut it Then wire both sides of cut B/W to N.C. contacts of relay Y wire from front brake in harness would be + on relay coil, add wire to frame ground for - on relay coil Take and save good notes of mod for future troubleshooting
  5. bkuhr
    Brown should be 12v from battery Pink should be ground from the push switch Apply a ground jumper wire from frame or battery minus to pink, while still hooked to horn suspect OE&stebil horns will blow and prove problem from button If so take button back apart again and apply ground jumper from pink wire at button. horns blow Y-pink wire ok down to horns, N-pink wire broken down to horns apply ground jumper from black wire at button, and press button horns blow Y-broken black wire to frame, N-problem contacts of button, clean
  6. bkuhr
    Is this the OE horn or the stabel? -Volts on both wires of OE horn indicated open(missing) ground, that should be comming from the button and wires -Volts on both wires of stebil horn also indicates missing ground, Is the relay contacts wired on the horn minus side? Still suspect problem from switch
  7. bkuhr
    Posts appear to indicate wiring as pictured. I would suspect problem with horn button circuit. Try a ground jumper wire on the OE horn-make sure to get the -side or blow fuse, probably set of the stebils also.(key on)
  8. bkuhr
    There are actually 2 cam chains, 1 in each forward and rear bank. each 1 chain operates both the intake and exhaust cams in that bank. Not sure what you are hearing, mabe mechanics stethiscope would help pinpiont location, but I doubt I could pick out cam chain noise. There are mechanical adjusters for the cam chains. They can be removed and reset, then reinstalled and then automatically set proper cam chain tension. If in fact you are hearing the chain, I would not expect it to be normal, and would require further invesigation. I did have a 75 honda cb350, where the chain wore thru the chain guide and actually cut thru engine casing. Our ventures have simular guides. I think I would drain oil looking for both metal and plastic/rubber bits(parts of guides), and if anything in oil, then pull valve covers looking for sharp ebdges on chains.
  9. bkuhr
    Welcome to the nuthouse Yes, green/red is the sensor wire for the gauge. To test, with power on, apply either open or ground to this wire, gauge should be zero(open), max(grd). The sense unit with bullet connections should be a variable resistor that you could mointor resistance change during warmup. The other sense unit with spade connector should be a temp switch that will normally be open, and will close at set temp, would require removal and place in boiling water to test switch closing. YES This should be going to the ground side of the fan relay coil. Appears PO bypassed with a switch, maybe relay also bypassed??? yes it should, see testing above
  10. bkuhr
    This appears to be another chip that would substitute- no guarantee http://www.mitsubishielectric-mesh.c.../m63803p_e.pdf Lots available on google search, but all providers appear to be china or hong kong.
  11. bkuhr
    There is a post somewhere where someone found a replacement chip for the TD62504p. Will look tomorrow unless someone finds it first. May be easier to find replacement CMS. Prior to reinstalling a repaired CMS you need to inspect the battery fluid sensor wire. If running an AGM battery, there is nowhere for the lead acid probe, and battery warning light is always on. I would suspect PO tied probe wire direct to battery PLUS, and this is what blew your chip. It should have a resistor (apx 2.2kohm) installed between battery plus and the wire. This is called the 'resistor mod' you can search for. Can you send pic and better location discription of connector with red and black wires? OK-found many posts about the chip Heres the one I was thinking off: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63495 In the many posts it appears we are not really sure where to actually get a replacement chip This appears to be another chip that would substitute- no guarantee http://www.mitsubishielectric-mesh.com/products/pdf/m63803p_e.pdf Lots available on google search, but all providers appear to be china or hong kong.
  12. bkuhr
  13. bkuhr
    Thats good, you could install the resistor mod, but as long as you use a lead acid battery, I would suggest you keep the probe system working. Real easy for charging system to boil acid out. Also keep in mind many of the segments are on a time delay so they are not flashing over sudden changes then back. When testing systems give them about 30 sec to respond before calling good or bad.
  14. bkuhr
    No mystery, OP said in post #9 it is the Battery segment. Now FWIW, after you placed probe into the battery, and still did not extinguish the light 1. fluid is low in your lead acid battery-add distilled water 2. wiring problem or damages probe 3. a previous ower tried to bypass the circuit and hook the probe wire direct to battery + this would have fried the battery circuit internally the CMS, and nothing you do with the resistor mod will help. There was a post somewhere where someone located a replacement IC chip that could be replaced, but it would be easier to locate a replacement CMS
  15. bkuhr
    To settle where blame lies, I will admit it was ME, MESELF, and I. Sure wish I knew back 10 years ago what I know now! Anywhoo, here is status so far.... -Cut 6x6 at bottom of pad base board. Rot continued up so cut 6x6 at level with pad. 95% rot free except far inside corner. -highjack 6x6 up -installed roof felt tar paper on bottom, then placed metal end cap -cut recess into 6x6 and installed inverted fencing 'T' post driven into existing pole pour. t post secured with bar thru 6x6 and rear flange, and screws front flange to 6x6 -found footer form and layed flat on existing pole pour(4' deep) -expanding foam under pad to restrain concrete -drilled and installed threaded rod to pull base boad back after pour Now pending, -to form box for pour -pour concrete to level with existing pad -set 6x6 just on new concrete while wet to set 't' post -angle bracket post to pad Thanks for the many suggestions
  16. bkuhr
    My first question would be do theheadlights and tail/braked lights operate correctly? If not no doubt about removing CMS, as these circuits run into, then back out to the said lamps.
  17. bkuhr
    here is copy of legend
  18. bkuhr
    Should have one of the 6 segments also illuminated. That will help determine which system to help you troubleshoot.
  19. bkuhr
    Looks like good idea, but I do not have easy access to inside of 6x6 for mounting bracket, as floor pad is poured around 6x6's- see pic At this corner I have 2 sides of 6x6 I can work with, but on mid wall posts I will only have 1 side of the 6x6 to work with. This sounds promising inserting ibeam into recessed 6x6 like I planned 4x4, have to see what scrap yard has. Good ideas, keep em comming
  20. bkuhr
    Discouraging find this weekend. My 24 x 48 garage has a serious problem, at least 1 6x6 post is rotting out. These posts are rough cut true 6in x 6in popular, set about 4' deep in concrete. Then walls were built, then pad poured inside. Not easy to inspect other posts and will work just 1 at a time. Does not appear to be any wood left in concrete pour under 6x6-seems to be just rot and dirt. Looking for suggestions of how to repair. My first thought is to start carving with the chain saw a 4 x 4 recess into the 6x6, auger as deep as possible in the concret pour, then jamb a treated 4 x 4 into the augered concrete pour and recessed 6 x 6. Bolt the 4x4 to the 6x6 and repour concrete to set 4x4 and pack concret up to support bottom of remaining 6x6. Any other ideas?
  21. bkuhr
    Is shift lever bent and jamming against frame-could be preventing actually hitting N
  22. bkuhr
    Those look just like the springs I removed when I upgraded to progressive. pic old spring, old spring 17-3/4, progressive 20-3/4 here is pics of my fork rebuild http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49226
  23. bkuhr
    Have a meter or test light? Test for 12v at horns with key on. If so indicates stock wiring, apply jumper wire from frame ground to NEG of horn(be VERY sure not to touch + side of horn or will blow signal fuse. Diagram indicates NEG wire at horn is PINK, + wire at horn is BROWN). Both horns should sound. This confirms problem up to and thru horn button to ground.
  24. bkuhr
    Assume for 86 venture in your profile. OE horn does not have a seperate fuse, it is on the same 'signal' fuse with gages, neutral light, etc.... Continous power to the horns from the signal fuse, Ground from the horn push button completes the circuit. Many have upgraded horns, requiring a seperate relay and maybe a fuse. Maybe you can hear relay clicking to help track it down as you press horn button. Likely wiring direct from Battery +, thru inline fuse, to relay, then to aftermarket horn + Hope this helps
  25. bkuhr
    My first thought is maybe you cracked or blew off a vacum cap, or some other vacum leak. Many items sprayed under carbs and around manifolds listening for change in rpm. I prefer start fluid-but have fire ext handy. Second, water cooled engine will warm all CYLINDERS evenly. Need to test exhaust pipes 2-3 in from cylinders
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