Jump to content

bkuhr

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    951

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by bkuhr

  1. bkuhr
    OE should not have resistor or diode in the probe wire, but what you are likely seeing is bullet style disconnect under faded clear tube. As stated will need to clean end of probe hopefully to clear current battery icon. Otherwise try 2k-4k ohm resistor as stated in place of probe tied to battery plus. If still does not clear icon, then maybe someone blew the cms for you, there are options to try repair.
  2. bkuhr
    Ohm out the plug caps, removable resistors internal the caps could be open. If so could try cleaning, but would recommend replacement of caps.
  3. bkuhr
    1. Headlight circuit cuts out at the start pushbutton switch. Known problem these contacts dirty and do not make contact when switch released.-easy to clean http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43027 2.Headlight circuit runs THRU the CMS computer dispaly to monitior for headlight failure. known problem with broken solder joints internal the CMS-easy fix, once you get it out reflow solder joints http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33328
  4. bkuhr
    With cover off observe clutch plates releasing. Does not take much. I measured .071" stroke when I had my problem. If you have the stroke, but still will not disengage clutch then I would suspect improper assembly. If you do not have the stroke, I would suspect air in slave, missing pushrod ball, or improper mounted slave.(gap in stroke)
  5. bkuhr
    Intermittent is the worst!- but doable, may have to think outside the box! First and foremost suggestion is disassemble/clean/reassembly tightly, battery wiring connections, and frame ground connections. Connections that look and feel tight can have corrosion that causes connection problems. Second, if issue popped up again-which it may not: I think I would rig up a test light to monitor both safety cutoff at TCI (power to light, ground from safety circuit-turns on if safely circuit activated), and main power to TCI (ground to light, power from TCI-always on unless power failure). Both would tap into wires near TCI. 12v leds would work great, but would need to be mounted high in vision to notice sudden problem that corrects itself. Should at least rule out electrical, if failure continues with no change, and if lights did change should indicate electrical system to work on. Not tested with this 2 light rig, is ground failure at the TCI-coils. but ground should be able to be tested static ohm test from battery-frame-ground wires of TCI/coils.
  6. bkuhr
    Looking over your other clutch thread http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67887 I have to ask if you had the clutch pushrods out? There is a ball between the long and short push rods that may be missing. pg 3-50 service manual.
  7. bkuhr
    Not familiar with RSTD, but those tubes look like fuel overflow from each carb to me. Would VENTURE a guess you have/had a stuck float. If not pouring fuel probably ok, but would run some seafoam and run hard to clean out jets/needles. Then wipe clean and watch for additional leaks. Just my opinion.
  8. bkuhr
    With the pin fixed, can you now operate thru all the gears? Just having trouble finding neutral light? might check neutral switch.
  9. bkuhr
    Radio on acc, but not in ing position almost gaurantees a bad main (key) switch. The brown wires at the fuses on the headlight, ignition, and signal should have 12v with main switch on. Radio comming on in acc proves power too the main switch is ok.
  10. bkuhr
    DASMA 1300 Sumner Avenue Cleveland, OH 44115-2851 Phn: 216/241-7333 Fax: 216/241-0105 E-Mail: dasma@dasma.com
  11. bkuhr
    I assume the 4th gear problem was a propped shift pin, and you had to remove the clutch basket to repair/replace the pin. During basket reassembly, I will bet you put the washer/spacer back on wrong, thereby locking up the clutch. Here is the thread where rocket set me straight http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48414
  12. bkuhr
    Should have just left it at...
  13. bkuhr
    Pic looks weird with truck on the back seat, is this upsetting balance? Also agree replace rear tire before getting carried away
  14. bkuhr
    During testing of signal cancel design, I placed a switch across reed, and actuated by hand to simulate distance. It worked, but required about 600 switches during about 5 minutes. Wore me out. Anyway this tells me that signal cancel counts total pulses=distance I would guess that cruise counts pulses per second=speed, and software internal cruise module controls max-min limits
  15. bkuhr
    Got mine, works great, if actually logging in to play with software dont forget to set com ports in the ingitek program for your computer, I had to use com 13 with usb-serial adapter.
  16. bkuhr
    probably too much too long my guess-battery
  17. bkuhr
    Probably should have just keep quiet and stuck smiley stickers on boobys
  18. bkuhr
    I have been operatiing an actual Throttle Position Sensor with the v80 TCIP4 form the last buy with, IMO, better preformance than the MAP sensors on TPS inputs. I have been working with dingy to confirm my opinion that TPS is better, then the v88 option popped up that IS designed to use MAP sensors. Was hoping to trade my v80 plus a few $ with someone buying a new v88 , so I could continue to experiment both ways, but so far no takers. My TPS interface with the carbs is not the safest setup, and currently working on safer install that could be installed by other v80 owners.
  19. bkuhr
    hole and tap for helicoil would likely be larger than hole in cover, making you unable to leave cover on as suggested. I usually stuff cylinders, etc with shop towels, blow out when done for larger clippings, then the fine stuff comes out with the towels.
  20. bkuhr
    While WAGing it, at least on the 83's, I would like to add, that the cylinders timing is NOT symetrical, meaning that they do not fire at equal intervals between cylinders. If you recall setting of the cams and chain the timing procedure- too lasy to look it back up, TDC is not symetrical. Therefore it will never (with out VERY fancy electronics) be possible to reduce all 4 cylinders to just 1 pickup
  21. bkuhr

    At wits end

    bkuhr replied to Marcarl's topic in Watering Hole

    :sign yeah that:maybe slipped timing cam chain. Try to verify TDC and I&E valves closed near same spot as breaker points
  22. bkuhr
    Not really an answer, just observation for discussion It seems that your battery gauge, and assuming the battery, acheive a higher voltage when you have higher loads applied. Keep in mind that the stator, when above ~2000 rpm, puts out a relative stable ac volts and amps (does not change with load). The regulator monitors the voltage NEAR the battery and adjusts the amount of the total available power the stator puts out to the battery and shunts (shorts) the rest of the stator power to ground. The regulator is factory set to try to maintain the battery at about 14v. The higher the load you have on, the lower the battery volts gets, to start. The regulator see this lower battery voltage and shunt less voltage to ground. During battery recovery it seems the regulator is late in switching back to 'normal' shunt volts to ground, resulting in higher than normal volts to the battery. I think I would suspect an issue with the regulator/rectifier unit, be it the unit itself, or corroded connectors-wiring causing it to sense improper volts levels NEAR the battery. This could also be corroded wiring AT the battery. Could also be during high load, regulator is actually over heating, causing slow/late response. I would ensure cooling fins are clean and in good airflow. I would be conserned about the high output, as IMO it can damage either a wet battery (boiling electrlyte) or a agm battery (breaking down membranes). Might consider carrying spare battery during your trip, even after you repair the above issue.
  23. bkuhr
    NO, we do not have CDI (Capacative discharge) on 1st gens heres a good article I found explaining the difference http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/IgnitionFAQ.html#a7p2
  24. bkuhr
    Afraid to ask, because then I may want one, but do you have any pics of the kit installed? What years designed to fit?
  25. bkuhr
    Did not state what kind of battery, new AGM or lead acid. If lead acid, possible you are low on electrolyte-simple fix adding ONLY distilled water to the full line of each cell. Then need to check charging system while running as described above checking for OVER charging, greater than 15v. I also did have 1 AGM baattery fail due to over charging (my error-placed on high rate charger) but the actual battery swelled up like a basket ball. Other than my error, I also am sold on AGM types.
×
×
  • Create New...