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bkuhr

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Everything posted by bkuhr

  1. bkuhr
    12v on solenoid r/w is after all cut off relay safety circuits. 12v on r/w=no issue with safety systems, and 12v on L/w indicates that the coil internal the solenoid is not open(defective). Still possible for solenoid to not operate correctly though. Due to measuring 12v on L/w, and it does not change when start button pressed indicates problem with ground side of circuit thru start button to solenoid.
  2. bkuhr
    The r/w is the +12v from the battery reading 12v also on the blue/w means that volts is going thru the coil of the solenoid, meaning that the coil is likely good. Main ground (black) is applied on 1 side of the starter push button switch, and when the switch is pressed, the ground should be applied to the blue/w side of the solenoid, completing the circuit and energizing the coil, causing the main contacts of the solenoid the close, completing a circuit to the starter. Do to the fact 12v on blue/w is not changing, you are not getting the ground from the starter switch. As a quick test for the solenoid, key on, neutral, with solenoid connector connected, run a jumper wire from battery minus, and backstab into the solenoid connector blue/w. Solenoid should energize, and the starter should crank. This proves solenoid is not defective. Now most likely problem with ground from the start switch is the contacts of the switch itself. Take switch apart and lightly sand contacts. While apart repeat above quick test jumper from battery minus to blue/w contact. This will prove no wiring problem from switch to solenoid. The repeat test again with jumper from blue/w contact to black contact.(be carefully not to touch the other red/yellow or blue/black contacts with any jumper, these are the headlight cutout during starting contacts and WILL blow a fuse.) If all is good reassemble the switch and you should be good to go. If something still does not work let us know.
  3. bkuhr
    Check the stator disconnect connectors for signs of overheating, melting.
  4. bkuhr
    I think the first thing to try would to perform a commpression check on all 4 cylinders. This is primarly to prove that your valves are closing correctly, to ensure each cylinder can create enough vacum to draw fuel in thru the carbs. Can maybe get compression tester from auto parts loan program? I do remember it is a non-standard metric thread, but adapter usually comes with it. Also inspect spark plugs while they are out for how they have been running. Tag each one to keep track of the cylinder it was in. If real low pressure readings, don't fret-as it likely just needs valve shim adjustment.
  5. bkuhr
    Under edge of left fairing, follow big red wire from battery. Split fairing or pull entire battery box to replace, but pry boot up with screwdriver and short accross top screw terminals to turn starter. Will arc and spark- don't do it to much or will melt screw terminals to point they can not be removed. Could be solinoid, but still betting corrosion under battery connection will pass enough amps for lights, but not enough for starter. Reason volt gage goes up, as start switch turns headlight off, decreasing load-increasing volts.
  6. bkuhr
    Loose battery connection. Dont just jiggle it, take it apart,plus and minus, sand fittings and posts shiney, and put back together. Also same for main ground lower right engine.
  7. bkuhr
    After reread, 1 thing I do not see mentioned is checking for vacum leaks. Does the '88 have YICS, anybody? If so remove it and plug the ports. Also suggest check all rubber plugs/hoses for sealing. Make sure when carbs are out they are exactly flat/ inline with each other while reassembling the rack. Then make sure there is no pinch/wrinkle in the manifold boot during rack install. Is the little o-ring behind the diaphram cover present? I think I would screw the idle screws about 2 more turns out (4 total). Install sync gage/manometer on all 4 ports, and looks for gage to respond during cranking/starting (making sure vacum present). If no vacum, could be waisting money on another carbs set, as the problem could be that the valves are not closing for multiple reasons, and would need to be fixed prior to any carbs working. Other problems for poor running could also be fuel and ignition related, Just because PO said has not run for 1 month, what was reason quit? Could be anything. What do plugs look like? As was stated above many suggestions have been made without response of results. This just leaves us to throw wild suggestions out. It would be very helpfull for others to help you, if you could go back over the above suggestions and indicate weither or not you completed the advised suggestion and the result of such. I think you will be amased how quickly to problem can be narrowed down then. I previously recommended to do a float level check. Although not normally an issue unless messed with by someone, if floats are set to high, you are already running very rich with choke, and any throttle will flood the cylinders (stall). Now with carbs back on this check can still be completed on the bike, just a little difficult to get to the drain nipples-but doable with needle nose.
  8. bkuhr
    Mike, Found something interesting while doing this. The OE face has many layer of silkscreen, with a yellow screen behind all the white numbers/lines, and most of the numbers and lines are blacked out except a 10moh segment at about 60-70 mph and 1000rpm segment at 1500-2500 rpm. by OE design, these are about all that is designed to light up, and nothing on the temp and volt gages. My method, of vinyl over CLEAR face plexiglass would allow the whole face to light up even with your stock bulbs. Pic is later model 91? tach rear, but you get the idea. 83 blackout yellow screen was worse
  9. bkuhr
    Made white faceplate labels for 83 dash similar to Reddevilmedic http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63342 Difference is I completely removed the face plate, Not for faint of heart pulling needles. Then I used the dreaded brake fluid to completely removing the original silk screen printing from the faces, leaving clear plastic glass. Then applied the white vinyl labels, and reassembled. Now my blue LED back lighting shines thru the vinyl label completely lighting up the gages. Major improvement IMO.
  10. bkuhr
    Might also order your credit reports and make sure no funny business there.
  11. bkuhr
    No personal experiance, but I would think you could contact the affected sites and have them pull down the imposter accounts.
  12. bkuhr
    check fuel float level
  13. bkuhr
    It was reddevelmedic that worked it out with that company, but note, the pattern they have on file is for '86 venture, 5mph off '83 venture speedo.
  14. bkuhr
    yes, here is an overlay option http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63342&highlight=gauge+color I am also working on a simular option, waiting for vinyl label material to come in to print with my laser color printer. Will see how it works. Been thinking to either completely replace faceplate with new plexiglass, or wipe existing faceplate completely off front and back, then apply vinyl label. My blue back lighting should show up very well thru the vinyl.
  15. bkuhr
    So its fixed, Class running 4000rpm:bang head: Just kidding, Actually I think you may have unhooked a ground wire somewhere.
  16. bkuhr
    I might suggest that while carbs are out again the you preform a fuel float level check, while on the bench.
  17. bkuhr
    Your wish is my command
  18. bkuhr
    Here is a diagram should allow what you intend
  19. bkuhr
  20. bkuhr
    Heres the wiring diagram http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/86-87%20Yamaha%20Venture%20DS%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20D.pdf
  21. bkuhr
    Might suggest replace engine oil same time, may have wrong oil started all this problem, hate to ruin new clutch.
  22. bkuhr
    . Assume still OE wet cell battery. Pull cell caps and make sure fluid above plates, if any doubt pull battery and look thru the side and full line. If low replace ONLY with distilled water. If gel cell type battery, make sure it is not swelling, had one swell up like basketball. If so get it out now and put in a tub/bucket of water.
  23. bkuhr
    I had simular issues, finally got fed up and installed auto radio. Then still had issue with left speaker cutting out, removed and found cold solder joint between elec lug and cone wire. Repaired this and sounds like cr@pp. Think cone is warped. Never had headset cords on 83 strd, or tape deck, so never tried either. Plan on sometime getting bluetooth comm system, but have not found one that will operate dash/helmet, with inputs for radio/mp3/gps, cb, cell, etc. Anyway currently looking for new dash speakers, not sure what size short of pulling them again, thinking 4" 4ohm, anybody? I do have the tuner/amp and control head with dash insert for shipping if wanted. I did cut the 8 wire plug off the turner to reuse for the auto radio, and will likely keep the key lock set. But I now think all my issues were with the speakers, and the radio was fine.
  24. bkuhr
    He did, 1 cut dividing 24x48 in 2ea 24x24. no cracks here, just everywhere else! No wire no fiber. Wish I knew better at the time. 1 of the cracks is displaced so much, 1 side is 1" higher than the other side. Pretty sure I can get it fixed when I win the lottery:mo money:oh well life goes on, and still better than dirt floor. Ever realize how hard it is to take a pic of concrete?
  25. bkuhr
    Guess that explains why my 24 x 48 garage floor 3-1/2" thick without wire that I paid $2500 for is all busted up, never could find that guy (contractor) again either. Just have to live with it for now, still better than dirt floor.
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