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bkuhr

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Everything posted by bkuhr

  1. bkuhr
    The front and rear brake switched are wired in parellel, either one will turn on circuit. Then they run thru the CMU dash computer, and should provide and indication of brake light failure. If no indication of failure and circuits works with rear switch, I would suspect that the front switch is defective-most likely the button is dirty/jammed. You also stated 'no tail lights'. Does this also mean no running light?
  2. bkuhr
    Thanks gary, deleted history and cookies prior to post. Don, had not knowingly made any changes, but per your instrucions, found it was set to 'automatically' and changed it to 'every time I visit' and working fine now Thank you.
  3. bkuhr
    Normally after reading a post, upon refresh of browser that post is grayed out indicating has been read until a new post has been added. For the last couple of weeks, this greyout has only been happening speratically, typically after dropping off net then back on. This issue is only with my home PC, as still works fine at work. Ya, gota get on site every available chance:thumbsup: Using IE8/Vista. Appears some setting on my PC has changed. Not sure where to start. Suggestions? edit, started up firefox, and hove no problem, so issue is with IE8.
  4. bkuhr
    As the flasher is wired before the turn switch, the only way for lights to flash is to make connection after the flasher and the lights itself. The turn switch is what makes this connection, and the inability to cancel or change at the turn switch almost gaurantees the problem to be with the turn switch itself. Most pinched wires are pinch to frame, and would short out the flasher circuit, likely blowing fuse, but for sure preventing the lamps from lighting/flashing normally. Turning on hazard, will remove power from turn flasher circuit, and activate hazard flasher. Then all 4 corners should flash normally eliminating wireing issue. Suggest take turn switch apart.
  5. bkuhr
    Does the brake light actually flash or just dim, I'm thinking shorted/pinched wire/s.
  6. bkuhr
    Removing fairing required unmounting of amp/tuner. Wonder if something not remounted tightly, and jars enough when just standing bike up from stand?
  7. bkuhr
    My first thought when reading this was starter clutch, I know-left side.
  8. bkuhr
    I think I would order new plastic water pipes/orings between the heads, think they are called joints. Will likely break them trying to remove, and could be the source of oil in water.
  9. bkuhr
    Gary, How much to make it right so you are not out of pocket?
  10. bkuhr
    Did you turn the fuel back on after pulling the bowl? Just saying
  11. bkuhr
    I never considered my flasher cancel an issue, even though I agree they are, some times on to long, it has been a simple solution to 'thumb them off'. I consider the canceler a lot better then my old cb350 that did not auto cancel. I would also like to point out that the auto canceler is also not perfect. On my way to work I turn from a stop light onto a left Y, and it is not enough turn to cancel my 2010 car. Many times following others who do not cancel their turn. During lane changes, I hold car turn signal short of locking on, then just release it when done. How many times have you followed behind a car for miles, wonder when are they going to turn? I doubt a steering sensor, or a bike lean sensor would be able to satisfactorily cancel turns in all situations, and think time and distance sensors are the most piratical, although still not perfect. Other than mind control sensor, maybe could be improved by adding bike lean sensor to the time and distance sensors, all three with user adjustable parameters to suit individual preference.
  12. bkuhr
    If taking readings expecting 10s-100s-1000s ohms, the lead resistance is insignificant, likely less then .1 ohm. However when looking for very low reading or perfect shorts/continuity, then the lead resistance must be taken into account. Some meters have a function to 'zero out' the meter and leads prior to preforming tests. I had similar problem on my xj750. meter showed about 13.5v, but every few weeks bike would die at most inconvenient places, and not have enough power in battery to restart. Ran thru all tests and replaced reg/rect, did not help. Installed 30a auto direct read amp gauge in line with battery and could watch my drain, even though I have 13.5v. Retested stator. Originally figured .2ohm was 'close enough' to spec .4ohm. Guess not. Replaced stator and cured problem. Only 1 winding of the 3 windings was lower than spec, The way I figure the 2 good winding were producing enough power to regulator to produce voltage, but the shorted winding was placing excessive load on the regulator, causing regulator to generate a net loss in power. Keep in mind the xj750 uses a brush and slip ring alternator, different than our ventures, but work on same principle and pretty sure .4ohm spec is the same. Also check each winding (white wire) to battery neg(frame ground)-should be ~(open-no reading even on highest scale)
  13. bkuhr
    Suggest pull battery and take to auto/battery store for load test.
  14. bkuhr
    Close Jeff, actually both a timer set for I think 10 sec, and a odo hookup set for 150m.(10s/150m spec of top of my head) Both timer and odo must complete their cycles to cancel the turns. Think like this, -If high speed lane change the 150m odo will trip quickly, but turns will stay on until 10s done -If stopped at light 10s will trip, but turns stay on until 150m. Actually, IMO, I think its pretty ingenious. As for changing it, my thought is you may be able to rework the current canceler with different parameters. Maybe user adjustable timer and odo counter. FWIW When the canceler completes both cycles, it APPLIES 12v to the 3rd "control" terminal of the flasher, causing the flasher to shut off. If hand control is used to turn off turns, 12v is completely removed from the flasher. This 3rd "control" terminal is the reason that it is difficult to use non OEM auto type flasher as one work like to low current LED type turns. On most auto 3 terminal flashers the 3rd lead is a pilot output, as opposed to control input I have managed to construct a replacement flasher that will work with LEDs and auto cancel. If any interest can do a writeup, but basically took 2 terminal auto led flasher and added relay to accept 12v "control", then relay removes voltage from flasher.
  15. bkuhr
    Ohm out the 3 stator white wires to each other (a-b, b-c, c-a) about .4 ohms is good, anything less is bad(.0-.3) Use a quality digital meter, and first short the leads. subtract any lead resistance displayed from above stots ohm tests.
  16. bkuhr
    Think maybe still problems going on, was also 200 active users, refreshed screen and only 3 active users-2 members and 1 guest. Starting to climb back up I suspect as users refresh/click new screens.
  17. bkuhr
    some air will escape around the rings. thats what you need to do "leak down test". apply continous air source and monitor how much pressure drops of other end of leak down manifold. then you can crank air up at manifold, listening for where air is leaking. also adding oil will form temporary seal around rings. If with oil, pressure shoot way up then it is rings, if no change then likely valves/head. somewhere here I have a post with my leakdown readings, I will try to find it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46640 One thing to remember is the compression pressure is highly dependant on the timing of the valves. If a valve opens or to early or closes to late in the compression cycle, you will NOT build the full compression. A likely reason for for valve timing to be off is valve gap being too tight(not enough commpression) or too loose(too much commpression). With our bikes, the valve shims are known to wear causing less gap there for less commpression.
  18. bkuhr
    I had a bent valve and paid $200 for valve job, but I would not expect that to be normal as PO had seriously abused motor. I would more likely suspect you need to do a valve shim check, common reason for low compression, especially when on more than 1 cylinder.
  19. bkuhr
    I would also suspect the YICS system. The plastic 4 chamber box under the battery forward of the carbs with 4 hoses going to the intake manifold. This YICS system was for fuel economy but really does not do much, but is prone to cracking in the sealed seam and causing loss of control vacum for the carbs. Suggestion is to completely remove it and the hoses, and cap off the ports on the intake with very sturdy rubber caps/clamps
  20. bkuhr
    SECOND COLUMN IS RHYM I LEARNED LONG AGO FOR COLOR CODE 0 BAD BLACK 1 BOYS BROWN 2 REAM RED 3 OUT ORANGE 4 YOUNG YELLOW 5 GIRLS GREEN 6 BUT BLUE 7 VOILET PURPLE 8 GIVES GRAY 9 WILLINGLY WHITE TOLERANCE GOLD 5% SILVER 10% NONE 20% 1ST COLOR=1ST DIGIT BROWN=1 2ND COLOR=2ND DIGIT BLACK=0 3RD COLOR=MULTIPLIER RED=2 ZEROS ALL = 1000 =1K 4TH COLOR=TOLERANCE
  21. bkuhr
    Gary, I'm in PM sent
  22. bkuhr
    Heres some scope readings I took a while back. I used standard lead backstab into TCI. Used old 1 channel, 2 channels would show differances better. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=502850&postcount=10
  23. bkuhr
    Just a random thought may give you idea to test. Have a scope handy? Might monitor primary's during both hot skip and normal with a thought ignition unit may be dropping spark when hot, also might try same monitoring input coils controlling ignition box.
  24. bkuhr
    Sounds like a problem I had on mine. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=47349 post #16 shows where I finally found the bend link.
  25. bkuhr
    I have followed the Ingitek thread with intrest, had my hat off to all work completed so far with outstanding results. My thought is that the unit is DESIGNED for TPS, and the BAR workaround while works fine, could be better using TPS. The TPS senses requested throttle, and while monitoring RPM the ignition unit adjusts advance until RPM=request, during both fast and slow accel. The BAR simulates requested throttle, lagging behind actual throttle request based on engine load, therby advance lags, but can be compensated in unit programming-again outstanding job making it work as well as it does. My thought is to use linear position potimeter simular to pic on throttle cross bar. I have also considered possibility of using both TPS and BAR, with results to a digital 'summing' circuit which would feed TPS input of Ingitek. Gary, I would be interested in the complete unit & used BAR, but would also like spare pins to experiment with TPS.
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