Jump to content

bkuhr

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    951

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by bkuhr

  1. bkuhr
    I realized same when I switch all dash lighting to LED and had to switch RLU back to incandescent bulb. I think all is fine with yours.
  2. bkuhr
    Earl, just my opinon, but I feel either an AC or DC motor being run slow enough would be suspectiable to overheating, and I think I would see if it would be possible to install staggered belt pullys simular to a multi speed drill press. Think you will get into bunch $ for 1/2 hp DC motor/controller and DC power supply. could consider multispeed AC motor with 3-4 speed windings.
  3. bkuhr
    Just read interesting article about oxygen sensors. Did not know about rear access to ambient air, and need to keep the 'normal' gunk off the sensor. Automotive Trivia http://www.rockauto.com/Newsletter/images/triviaPlate2.jpg The core of a typical oxygen sensor is a zirconium dioxide (zirconia) ceramic. Oxygen ions flow freely through this ceramic after it is heated to 600 deg. F (316 C). What else is zirconium dioxide used for? A. imitation diamonds B. thermal barrier coatings for diesel engine parts C. foundation for dental crowns D. all of the above Answer below http://www.rockauto.com/Newsletter/images/bar.gif The Other End of the Oxygen Sensor http://www.rockauto.com/Newsletter/images/RAmech.gif Oxygen sensors thread into the exhaust system where they obviously face extreme heat and harsh exhaust gases. Oxygen sensors fail when the bulb inside the exhaust pipe is exposed to lead, silicone, antifreeze, engine oil and other contaminants. Many people are not aware of the role that the other end of the oxygen sensor plays. Surprisingly, the visible end of the sensor with the wire pigtail is just as important and sensitive to contamination as the end slugging it out in the exhaust pipe. Nearly all oxygen sensors are designed to measure the difference between the oxygen level in the exhaust with the oxygen level in the outside air. The sensor generates a voltage based on the difference in oxygen levels that the engine computer uses to continuously adjust the fuel mixture, etc. The outside air the oxygen sensor needs for its comparison enters the sensor at the end with the wire pigtail. Depending on the sensor design, the air might enter through a dedicated hole or through the wires. http://www.rockauto.com/Newsletter/images/2212TomStory.jpg The oxygen sensor ambient air inlet is likely to be protected by silicone boots, porous PTFE (Teflon) or some other means. A routine splash of water is not likely to hurt an oxygen sensor, but leaking chemicals (engine oil, power steering fluid, etc.) can clog or enter the oxygen sensor air inlet and damage the sensor. Efforts to “protect” oxygen sensors by spraying them with lubricant, covering them with insulation, etc. can backfire if the sensor’s air inlet is blocked or contaminated. Oxygen sensor installation instructions emphasize that the entire sensor, including the wiring harness, is part of an integrated system. Routing and connecting the wires is as important as carefully threading the sensor into the warm exhaust pipe. I just read installation instructions for a Bosch oxygen sensor that had just two steps covering removing the old sensor and screwing the new sensor into the exhaust port. The instructions had ten steps covering the connection and routing of the oxygen sensor’s four wires. The oxygen sensor bulb buried in the exhaust pipe is on its own, but you can maintain the other end by making sure the wiring harness is never torn, rerouted or covered with goop. Tom Taylor, RockAuto.com
  4. bkuhr
    Brass plugs need hole drilled in them, then they are pulled out of the carbs and discarded. Spring loaded idle needle is under these plugs. Count and record turns until needle is bottomed(not hard or you will damage needle)(for each carb), then remove needle for cleaning. Starting point for reinstalling needles will be what was recorded earlier, probably 2-3 turns from bottom.
  5. bkuhr
    But you should have-for a proper cleaning
  6. bkuhr
    Maybe they got the twinkie fixed, but I would also look behind the fins for dried coolant on the freeze plugs.
  7. bkuhr
    here ya go http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65782&highlight=shifter check second pic in post #5 I would suspect the short lever on the shaft is "up" rather than "down" Been there - done that
  8. bkuhr
    find neutral to confirm (1 up from 1st)or(1 down from 5th) I would suspect shift lever on wrong, very easy to do- pics here somewhere.
  9. bkuhr
    Dont forget to check for batt and ground on the other tach wires. Also may help to loosen then retighten tach wire nuts, just to rule out corroded connection. I had simular issue- sometimes tach worked, sometimes only fraction actual rpm. I took tach apart and lubed thinking corroded mechanics. I ended up making it not work at all:doh:. Finally replaced it.
  10. bkuhr

    OBD 1 scanner?

    bkuhr replied to frankd's topic in Watering Hole

    Likely wont work in this fashon, as when you unplug a sensor, the ecm senses that circuit out of range and switches into open loop mode, disrequarding all the sensors-kind of defeats the purpose, although it should set an ecm code for the circuit sensor pulled from, if you chance accross a sensor that did not set a new ecm code, that may be a defective sensor. Would still suggest an actual scan tool-maybe pay dealer $50-60 just for scan and printout? Offer still open to send my autoxray.
  11. bkuhr
    Shots did not work at all. Had partial Plantar Faciitis separation surgery, completely removed the 'nail in the heel pain' but moved pain to the arch. More bearable in the arch(with support), and decreasing pain with time. Now nearly completely pain free except on very long working days.
  12. bkuhr

    OBD 1 scanner?

    bkuhr replied to frankd's topic in Watering Hole

    Frank yes, autoxray 6000. can watch sensors real time during operation, can capture current and pending fault codes, displays codes both number and english, resets all codes, also time frame event capture. probably have to play with it a bit to figure it all out, but should show what you are looking for. pretty expensive, but will ship with insurance if you ship back same. PM address
  13. bkuhr

    OBD 1 scanner?

    bkuhr replied to frankd's topic in Watering Hole

    heres the one I have http://www.2toolguys.com/axr6000 pm address
  14. bkuhr
    I agree with dingy that you checked incorrectly, you numbers would seem to indicate that the w/r coil is shorted (105 ohm orange + 0 ohm w/r=105) and the rest of the coils would be about correct (105 ohm orange+105 ohm w/g(or grey)=210 ohm). Orange to black should have been 105 ohm. For these low level ohm specific readings make sure you either zero meter, or short the meter leads and subtract any reading (lead resistance) from test readings. Best using digital meter.
  15. bkuhr
    Have had OOMA about a year now-GREAT. Only $3.00 fed tax and fees/month(actually about $2.58) Installs right behind modem, (modem-OOMA-router-computers)computer does not need to be on, all normal house phones wired and work like normal, even caller id on dish tv. E911. Able to log into account and see/rename all calls made/received/missed, additional premier account($20/month?)(i dont have) will allow call blocking of any and all numbers selected in account list. even keep current number($40) and second line number. Only bad is I was unable to get my fax working, but suspect because of old style machine. OOMA has my vote, wouldn't touch Magic Jack with 10'pole. $3.00 sure beats my old LL $50/month=basic+area wide+caller id, and current cable (broadband)provider wants to add $20/month for phone.
  16. bkuhr
    Jeff, already did this for 83 flasher. Should be able to do simular in the 41R assembly. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63802 For that matter, if difficult to find replacement 41R assembly, could possibly remake entire 41R circuitry using off the shelf relays(future replacable), and if the contact base of the 41R was saved, it could be used for an OE fit of the bike harness in a remade assembly
  17. bkuhr
    Did I mention that vented Ni-Cad aircraft batteries release HYDROGEN during both charge and discharge. Battery shop has massive venting hood. Hate to think about the pressure in a sealed battery!
  18. bkuhr
    This appears to be just a CD to explain how to charge Ni-Cad batteries, and even spelling errors:I saw Ni-CD listed once. Wouldn't touch it with a 10 foot pole. As for charging Ni-Cad batteries, I actually have a lot of experience in an aircraft Ni-Cad battery shop. Ni-Cad batteries deliever great amounts of power, vs "lead batteries", but have bad problem with 'memory'. Battery assemblies REQUIRE the individual cells to be drained then shorted for 24 hours to stabilize the memory at zero volts. This is not normally possible with 'packs' such as drill battery packs. You could short the pack for 24 hours, but then if you inspected the individual cells you would find some with + volts and some with - volts. (although pack manufactures do recommend a procedure to completely discharge the pack prior to recharge, as it does help, although not perfect) after a time the + volts and - volts have added up, and the available capacity to recharge has diminished. We typically removed/replaced cells that fail to zero after 24 hour short. After slow controlled recharge, Assembly is load tested for controlled load and time, and cells inspected for balanced drain. Failed cells removed and replaced again(and all zero'd out again, the charge-load test again). Then final recharge. When we had time, we would build a battery assembly with failed cells, and try 3 times thru charge, short 24 hours, etc to recover cells. Typically less than 20% recover. Picture of aircraft battery: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel%E2%80%93cadmium_battery_(vented_cell_type) Can't speak much for sealed cells such as drill packs but suspect they are simular, and the gimmick he is selling on the CD would have no effect in a bad pack, and if manufacture procedures were followed to start with, you would have acheived max life.
  19. bkuhr

    How much Data?

    bkuhr replied to bkuhr's topic in Watering Hole

    Is there any way to looking into the modem or router to see what my average current data use is?
  20. bkuhr
    The following post from Freebird got me thinking. How can I determine how much data I currently use, to determine future options? I am possibility looking to change jobs, and the new employeer is asking me to be within 45 minutes distance, which would require moving. This weekend I looked at an interesting place, but severly lacking internet wise. ATT telco but no DSL, no CATV. Only saving grace is in sight of, and 5 bars of ATT 4G cell tower. Currently 4 computers at home running on catv 6meg service. Never download movie or music, but sometimes large document files. Lot of ebay and VR.org:). What would be options for home based cell internet? How can I now figure typical data use at current home? Any other suggestions-I know find different house.
  21. bkuhr

    Sum Ting Wong

    bkuhr replied to SilvrT's topic in Watering Hole

    Had sort of same problem. Freebird set me straight here http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=62900
  22. bkuhr
    I would suspect that the drain hole in the side of the bottom of the slave drain valve is rusted shut. Completely remove valve to inspect, holes can be cleaned out with wire, but would recommend replacement. Also rust on valve indicates water was in system and should consider remove/rebuild of slave itself.
  23. bkuhr
    You did not state what bike this problem this is on, but I assume it is your '83 listed in your profile. Thw 'white' headlight indicator is an indication that the RLU(reserve lighting unit)has detected a problem and is trying to switch to the other light beam from which you have selected. Power for the system first runs from the headlight fuse to the released contacts of the push button starter switch (so the headlight turns off during starting), corrosion here is possible, but usually the contacts fail to make connection and headlight does not work at all. Next power goes to the RLU. The RLU monitors the power output to the dimmer switch(later) and the power output from the CMU(later) and if it detects a failure, it switchs power to the other headlight beam. Not very often, but a failure of the RLU can cause you symptoms. It could be removed and bypassed for testing, but is difficult to get to behind the right hand fairing. After the RLU the power goes to the High/Low dimmer switch. From the dimmer switch, either the high, or the low, as selected, power is sent the to CMU (computer monitoring unit dash display). Internal this unit are heavy coils that the power is run thru and back out to the actual headlight filiments. The purpose of the coils are to serve as an electromagnetic to active a reed switch internal of the coil. This creates a 'current' sensing failure detecting system. There are actually 4 of the sensing sytems internal the CMU. They are for 1-Headlight High, 2- Headlight Low, 3- Tail running light, 4- Tail brake light. The high current running thru these coils are known to melt the soldier connections on the pc board internal the CMU, but are usually repairable. This problem internal the CMU is your most likely issue. I would suspect that first high, and now both high and low coils have gone open, and the RLU is doing as designed and is opetating both beams at lower power. There are numerious posts on repair/ or bypass of the CMU, but all will involve removal of the dash. The last possible problem could be a corroded connector directly at the headlight. I think I would pull the windshield and dash cover and touch a bypass wire from cmu in to cmu out for each high and low beam from the rear connector(backstab) of the CMU. If beams came back full brightness then you could be sure you would need to repair the CMU, and now the dash is nearly out.
  24. bkuhr
    Suggestions on best way to scan documents for email? Using lexmark software that came with scanner, document scans come either .jpg or .pdf A single 8.5x11 page is typically 3-5meg, a bit large for email.
  25. bkuhr
    Think that this might be the clue. I would suggest to CHECK, DISASSEMBLE, AND CLEAN ALL the grounds. (Also get the AC phase wire connections). I am suspecting due to this volt spike, that a corroded ground is acting like a high resistance open, unloading the regulator for an instant-causing the spike, until the spiked voltage is high enough to 'burn' thru the corrosion, completing the regulator circuit. Also the high resistance -corosion, remaining in the circuit causes the less than optimal normal voltage (13.4 vs 14.1) 2 years of these spikes could also have damaged to regulator, but would not even think about replacement until grounds are repaired, and no more spikes. The 13.4v is close enough that maybe the regulator is ok, and a clean system will operate at specs. All this assumes your Honda uses AC generator. I had a Honda CB350 used brush type DC generator. Same cleaning, connections should still help.
×
×
  • Create New...