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bkuhr

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Everything posted by bkuhr

  1. bkuhr
    Rap on all 4 diaphram covers with screwdriver handle. Trying to dislodge any debris that got under a float needle. Then replace fuel filter to avoid again.
  2. bkuhr
    Good job tracking this issue down. Could be cause of problems some others are having.
  3. bkuhr
    Gary, Well my diagram a little wrong as matched to my bike, but my corrected diagram still does not match your pdf. I corrected my previous diagram, relocating the release tab on the 8 pin connector. Still does not match your pdf, but does appear to match pics of your harness, now not sure dans is backwards
  4. bkuhr
    Gary, your diagram and mine do not match look at pins 1&10, and 2&11, release tab is reversed between ours Now I need to get up and really go look at my bike
  5. bkuhr
    Just made up this harness wiring diagram, verify yours is wrong as it look like in your pic, and use it to correct yours
  6. bkuhr
    dnparker- just thought of something else, you could try the swap at the actual coils if plastic is off and you have access. swap 2 pin connectors on the coils swap coils 1&3 or org and yellow, and swap coils 2&4 or grey and white. If you do swap here, do not forget for future troubleshooting. Would recommend correcting the actual ingitech harness, them swap coils back to stock, in the event you ever needed to install OE ignition.
  7. bkuhr
    Not the pickup coils, the actual ingition coils are swapped Good news is the 90-93 unit you were helping me & Mike with is running. Great, what was it? dnparker- at the 8 pin connector, you will need to pull pins y/blk & org and swap them, also wht & red below the wht and swap them. It will take some finagaling with a stiff wire to release the pin catch and pull this pins, will never get them released at the 20pin connector. Then set software option back to unswap 9&20 before you attempt start again.
  8. bkuhr
    Gary, double check me and dnparkers pics looks to me like 20 connector pins 1&2 are swapped as well as pins10&11 If I am correct this is swapping coils 1&3 and coils 2&4 Then need to set software switch to off for the 9-20input swap.
  9. bkuhr
    glad we have spark, indication ingitek box works, but I am concerned timing may be way off BECAUSE of the pick up swap we just done, may have to swap it back and think of something else. Gonna look at your harness picks again
  10. bkuhr
    could try and swap the order of the pick-ups in the software bike tab, checkbox says "pickups interchange(pin9a20)"
  11. bkuhr
    Ingitech has been know to miswire the adapter wire harness. This will need to be inspected. There are also multiple versions of tcip4 out, they started at v75, and v80, but we recently had a group buy for a v88 version. We need to make sure what version hardware you have, and ensure you have the correct software for the 84 venture. I will have to wait until on home PC to be any more help, but Gary-DINGY may pop in and go thru some of this with you. You may already have figured it out, but you will also likely need to learn how to open the correct version software, then upload that file to the bike.
  12. bkuhr
    I have been talking to Gary on the side offering a second point of view on these issues. I was wondering if someone who can duplicate cutout, could change software to "no sensor" and try again. I am suspecting a problem with the MAP sensor. btw, I have run the v80 and now the v88, but I am running with an actual TPS instead of MAP and not having a problem. To answer your question, the changed out bike side plugs were suppose to be a match for OE plugs, and should refit OE TCI. Also likely yes-will need stock MAP sensor for 'PROPER' run, but should work without any sensor. Not sure how GM sensor would react with OE TCI.
  13. bkuhr
    Possible theory When master tied back and allowed to sit, any air below master rises up to the master. On master release, pressure from slave returning fluid to master also returns to master any air that was just sitting right there. Vice Versa, with master handle left released, air still rises to highest point, up to master, but when handle squeezed, pressure toward slave also moves air toward slave, and nothing gained. All the sitting time is to allow micro bubbles created to form back into large, bleedable bubbles. Micro bubbles stick to inside wall of tubes and lines and do not move very much. AVOID micro bubbles at all costs! My personal opionion is to operate master SLOWLEY! when bleeding to prevent breaking air bubbles into micro bubbles. Along with vacum bleeder I squeeze 3 times slowley (to build pressure)then crack bleeder. Then again, and again,... Never tried speed bleeders but I will sometime. Thats my story and I am sticking to it.
  14. bkuhr
    Had simular issue, tach 'sticks' at 0 or ~1500(in line with face plate screw) First thought bent needle rubbing screw-NO Then lube mechanix-NO help Then quit responding at all-think lube on electronics DO NOT SUGGEST LUBE Replaced and whole lot better, but rare occasion very late to 'warm up' off zero Thought maybe problem with signal from TCI to BOTH tach and #2 coil. Installed INGITEK TCI and new signal wire from dedicated tach output on TCI to the tach. Have problem again this last weekend, stuck on zero until 'warmed up' Next time I need to check for loss of volts or ground at the Tach! Still trying to pin it down!!
  15. bkuhr
    Unless modified, LEFT FRONT brake is attached to the REAR master cylinder (linked brakes), and also needs to be bleed. Tons of air in the front half could be you problem. Your hand brake is attached to the RIGHT FRONT brake and would from your description to be OK.
  16. bkuhr
    Just have to ask due to problems had identifying item and weird readings. Is this a 2 wire, black/white and black, sensors as wiring diagram indicates? Did you possibly measure 61K "toward the bike"? Print indicates a simple switch, 0ohm & ~ohm, as well as service manual discription. Looking at wiring diagram, the 'start circuit cut-off relay assembly', includes the fuel pump relay. Also many diodes, one of which could be breaking down. Suggest rig a test light that you can monitor(up high) at the fuel pump that will be on when pump on. If light is off when bike fails, you know pump failed and where to start looking, vice versa, if bike fails but pump never did, this rules out a bunch.
  17. bkuhr
    It is the YICS system, supposed to improve mpg but most here do recommend removal. The 4 chambers should be seperate from each other but likely leak to each other or air. Plug the ports at the head with HEAVY DUTY plugs AND spring clamps. They have been known to be blown off. quote from manuel: YICS (Yamaha Induction Control System) To increase fuel economy through more efficient combustion, the engine is equipped with the YICS, and the electronic governor type transistor ignition system with electronic boost control. In this configuration, the YICS consists of a chamber linked to the intake joint by a tube. Upon intake, the vacuum in the manifold creates a vacuum in the chamber; when the intake valve closes, the chamber draws in an air-fuel mixture. When the intake reopens, the mixture in the chamber shoots back out thru the angled tube and into the cylinder, mixing with and swirling the main intake charge. The swirling charge is then compressed and ignited, burn more completely and producing more power than that of a conventional engine.
  18. bkuhr
    I used POR15 on my 83 and it is great. I would suggest light taps on lowest points with scribe or pointed object to see if pokes thru-indicating very little metal left. If so grind of paint lightly, and braze swiss cheese closed&solid first. Then POR.
  19. bkuhr
    Do You Enjoy enough to keep doing it? :witch_brew:nuf said (gary even offered ya one)
  20. bkuhr
    Vance, Glad we finally got the horn! If you did not replace the effected connectors, then mouse pee will corrode the pins continually over time. Good baking soda bath with acid brush, good rinse, and more important then ever-dielectric grease. Plan to eventually replace the connectors.
  21. bkuhr
    1. clean the starter pushbutton contacts, These contacts open during start and sometimes do not make contact when button is released. 2. If 1 did not work, probably problem internal the CMU dash display unit. Power for headlight runs thru here, and cold soldier joints are known issue. Reflow soldier works well.
  22. bkuhr
    sounds even more like fuel pump relay
  23. bkuhr
    I think flyinfool has experiance with the hid country install.....JEFF Second fuse down should be the headlight fuse set for 10A. My first question is, if you disconnected your install from the bikes orginal wiring, will it stop blowing the fuse? Not sure how kit is installed, but suspect relay to bypass heavy load on key and start switches and fuse. You may have relay wired wrong blowing fuse. Double check proper hookup. Also possible you are not bypassing orginal fuse with relay, and heavy load is blowing fuse.
  24. bkuhr
    could be weak fuel pump relay, but I would suspect you are losing +12v on the grey wire at the relay. This comes from the TCI and also controls coil#2 and tach. A TCI swap would be in order if available, but likely an issue with engine cutoff sensor feed to the TCI such as sidestand switch, emergency stop switch, tipover switch... Black/white wire at TCI should NOT have a ground.
  25. bkuhr
    ??what problem are ya having?
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