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bkuhr

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Everything posted by bkuhr

  1. bkuhr
    1st thought was a dropped shift segment pin, BUT I think your 93 has the upgraded segment that can't drop a pin, and I know a missing pin will prevent an upshift, but not sure about preventing a down shift. Here I link to thread where I learned where the splined washer goes-thanks Rocket http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48414 SO, I think only likely other option would be something jamed in, or bent the external shift arms/links. Maybe a ball joint froze up.
  2. bkuhr
    The starter bush button on the right grip has 2 sets of contacts. 1 set N.O. and closes when pushed to apply ground to the start relay to start engine 2 set N.C. and opens when pushed to remove power from headlight RLU (reserve lighting unit, powering the headlight) and dash lights 99.9% sure your problem is the second set of contacts are dirty and not closing when starter button is released. The grip can be opened and contacts cleaned. Thread about cleaning here somewhere. Found the cleaning thread http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42433
  3. bkuhr
    here's front view of my 83 dash
  4. bkuhr
    If it helps, here is a pic of my 83' dash pins count like: ---- O ---- ---- - ----
  5. bkuhr
    Looks good enogh to me. Missing the misc tab pic. Your advance map is a bit different than mine, but I have been playing with mine for better performance. I am running v88 with actual TPS sensor, rather than MAP sensor. Attached pics of mine. If your is running better than stock, then that is all can be expected. You can make slight improvements playing with settings as you learn how they work. Can send you my .ing file if you would like to try it, send PM with email address.
  6. bkuhr
    Pull the radiator cap and make sure radiator is topped off. Also overflow bottle should empty thru the opened cap, if not the hose is plugged and preventing the overflow bottle from servicing the radiator, keeping it topped off.
  7. bkuhr
    I would suggest you will need to pull the carb rack and inspect for bent linkage. Also while it is out on the table you can play with the sync screws and seeing how they work with each other will help greatly when you are ready to do the actual sync. If you suspect you may have issues with the carbs, it would also be a great time for teardown and cleaning, but some gaskets will be required new. I had a simular problem, and notice in my pic how the 'L' shaped link is 'twisted' and not a square 90deg. This was my problem. edit: here is the thread where I tracked down the bent link holding throttle plates open http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=47349
  8. bkuhr
    Yes, that is actually how DINGY actually loaded all units he sent out, but even better, you can play with the program without even being connected to the TCI hardware. Just run the same driver program that matches the version TCI you have. Make all the changes you want in the program then save it as a new file name. When ready, you can carry pc out to bike and load your saved .ing files pretty quickly.
  9. bkuhr
    Each version has its own driver program. If you managed to program once before, you likely have the correct driver on your pc, and then swapped that program with the other when you wanted to program again. -v80 TCI should use program called 110817a_tcip4A_v80 the first #s may be different -v88 TCI should use program called 120201a_tcip4A_v88 " " The .ing files can be loaded into either version TCI, but the correct driver version must be used. Hope this helps, if for some reason you do not have the correct driver, send PM with your email address to either myself or dingy, and we can email you the correct driver.
  10. bkuhr
    Was right about MAP sensor line but did not realize had restrictor in line, thought restrictors was just for sync sticks/gages. To answer friesman question, restrictor used to dampen vacum pulses seen buy the ignition advance sensor. As my stock 83 did not have a restrictor, I think you could get by with just a plastic union to join the 2 tubes back together, or a 1 piece new tube from end to end. MAP sensor to #2 carb boot. You could, and at a minimum need to, just plug the end of tube with vacum with a screw to prevent vacum leak, but, your TCI will not provide ignition advance based on engine load until the MAP sensor is hooked back to the tube. With the MAP hooked back into the line, with either new union, or 1 piece new tube, should be nearly satisfactory, but you may find you will need to add a restrictor back in the line.
  11. bkuhr
    hard to tell for sure, but the brass insert looks like you may have broke the nipple off the MAP sensor used for adjusting ignition advance. MAP sensor mounted upside down on same plate TCI and coils on near left side corner. Is this hose comming from the #2(left front) carb boot nipple fitting?
  12. bkuhr
    good job getting it fixed. If it is just a 1 wire housing, then the broken black wire was the hot wire (exception to black color being ground), and YES, the bar would get its ground from the bolts to the bike.
  13. bkuhr
    blk wire may be ground (black color ~usually~ is), but it is likely pinched, or otherwise shorted with the hot(red or white) wire, maybe at the left signal light housing. Also maybe center contact of a bulb socket is not correct and touching the socket wall. Remove bulbs to inspect
  14. bkuhr
    You have power to and THRU the bulbs all the way back to the case of the light bar indicated by test light lighting when touching the case of the light bar. The case of the light bar is not grounded...... check/adjust the hardware attachments. I would add a seperate dedicated ground wire from case of light bar to frame ground. Maybe (likely)you have power skipping a bulb and going straight to the case of the light bar. (short of bulb socket to case). If so, when you ground the case of the light bar you will blow a fuse again. Pull bulbs back out and inspect center contact of socket not touching case of socket.
  15. bkuhr
    Assuming you disconnected and tested the Stator and RR as seperate items, not wired to each other, then Yes, you appear to have bad both Stator and RR.
  16. bkuhr
    I might replace the one I have.
  17. bkuhr
    GaryZ, its not the new IAP sensor causing the problem. its the new software option called IAP in the new v88 version. We seem to have had some success switching the software the was first sent out and preloaded from IAP to TPS, still using the new IAP sensor hardware installed per dingy's instructions as a TPS input. That should be clear as mud
  18. bkuhr
    float valve stuck due to debris. 1- replace fuel filter-debris had to come from somewhere. Could also be bad fuel hose between filter/pump/carb breaking down. all below 1 carb at a time.... 2-drain float bowls (drain screw and side drain tubes, into clear container to see if debris came out) 3-with drain open and fuel pump running, tap on diaphram cover with screwdriver handle-trying to jar carb and dislodge any debris under float needle loose 4-with fuel pump running. close drain valve. Pump should pressure up and stop, and should have no leak from overflow tubes. 5- if problem cant be fixed like this, carbs will need removed for cleaning
  19. bkuhr
    2 red wires directly on the battery. large one to starter relay, and smaller one to inline 40A main fuse-then everywhere. although checking the frame ground and starter main connections as dingy said, there is also the starter relay. Attached to the left side of the battery box and tucked under left fairing. Follow large red wire from battery. You can jumper across both top screw terminals with a screwdriver and starter should crank. If the clicking heard is coming for this relay, then it needs replaced. If battery connections are known good, the I would begin to suspect a worn starter. Try jumper cables from car battery directly on starter wire bolt(plus) and starter casing(minus){car NOT running}
  20. bkuhr
    My first suggestion would be to actually disconnect the wire terminals from the battery, sand them and the battery posts shiny, and snuggly put all back together. Even tight, clean looking connections can have corrosion that allow limited current to pass, but not enough to crank a starter. Very common problem.
  21. bkuhr
    This is stolen from the vmax site. Good description of ports and breakdown. http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/shotgun.htm Based on this I would suggest to blow compressed air from PAJ1, to remove a possible broken needle point or other debris
  22. bkuhr
    I found that after you get the seal in the groove, reach into carb throat and hold slide out in normal relaxed position, while installing spring and cover plate. After cover plate is pressed finger tight, slide can be released to free other hand for installing screws.
  23. bkuhr
    disconnect, clean and reinstall cables on the battery
  24. bkuhr
    WILSON whole house cell phone amplifer system is probably what you are looking for. I have a mobile version in the truck and allows the phone to continue to work where it used to drop in a 50 mile dead no tower zone. Works with any cellphones, just amplifies radio signals, so if you swap companies sometime will still have benefit. http://www.wilsonelectronics.com/ProductDetails.aspx?Product=38&title=DB+Pro+(801262)&Category=10 Look at the optional package option including everything needed. They are a bit pricey. Once you decide on item number look for better prices on ebay.....
  25. bkuhr
    Twat ya starin at?
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