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bkuhr

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Everything posted by bkuhr

  1. bkuhr
    Suggest dont be in hurry to put plastic back on. After all other work done, fire it up and ride naked-just to make sure everything works, and to bother the neighbors:whistling: After sure no problems then dress it up.
  2. bkuhr
    something like direct led 1157 plug in would be easiest http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Ftail-brake-turn.html%23BA15s
  3. bkuhr
    Hole on right where PO had cig outlet, reinstalled new one Hole on left where PO had a start switch to bypass bad start relay, relay replaced and hole repaired
  4. bkuhr
    Currently have dash out for CMS mod, can provide pics if wanted. Mod I am doing is bypassing current sense warning system for headlight high and low, and tail light running and brake. There is a post here somewhere about this, but I am taking it 1 step further and keeping the warning capability working for future planned (in progress) LED tails, and possible future HID/LED headlight. My mod has been tested to work(at the CMS), and instead of current sense, will use direct light sense( to be designed). Planned to do write up later, but if there is any current interest, I could start write up now.
  5. bkuhr
    Gary, maybe you can fit battery down where TCI was?
  6. bkuhr
    :sign yeah that::sign yeah that:
  7. bkuhr
    Made a balancer from 2x4 using actual axle shaft. (rotate axle shaft back and forth to remove wheel bearing resistance and heavy side of wheel falls to bottom every time). Bought HF stick on weights-problem, my 83 wheels have raised ridge in middle of rim leaving no room for stick on weights, but great for auto type clamp on weights. I ended up using stick on weight until balance found, then removed and find same weight auto type weights. With new E3 ended up using less than 1/2 of the weight that was on it before I started.
  8. bkuhr
    Had to go back to your orginal post http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=567089#post567089 to remember what your problem was. If no problem with flywheel, and timing is off as you posted, then the only thing left is that your overhead cams are improperly set. Suggest pull valve covers and in order of cam install procedure, check and adjust cams. May as well check valve lash while you are here.
  9. bkuhr
    stuD recently had simular problem and found rotor had spun on shaft, check this thread http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=57086
  10. bkuhr
    here is my supposed punch mark, near the last zero in 26h00.
  11. bkuhr
    Earl, thanks for info I got mine back to stock last year and it works great. Suprised me how quick I can stop compared to my xj750. I like the linked brakes, but will be replacing pads some time this year. Be amazed at the time I put into putting this bike back together-PO sure tore it up.
  12. bkuhr
    shaun, when I got my abused 83, the Po had removed the rear master-and was riding like that:bang head: Took me lot of part schrounging, but when I got all back together, still could not bleed rear activated front brake. ended up going to every pipe fitting, in order, and loosening and checking for fluid flow. Found problem was plugged metering valve under steering frame. Bi..h to get out, but it was plugged solid with rust. Not sure my thinking here, but water floats on oil, and metering valve is highest point in system. Would guess this to be likely point for rust in a 'closed' but contanimated system on the model of bike. My system was wide open(missing master) for unknown reasons.
  13. bkuhr
    You are correct if talking about the bypass valve down low center. the screw goes in the slot and the valve can still turn, the spring presses on the missing ball bearing, and the bearing feels the detents (2 holes top and bottom) in the pipe. Normal is with writing upside down, and valve in detent. Guessing but about any ballbearing of about 1/4 inch diameter should work.
  14. bkuhr
    before working on cabrs do a compression check. Low compression due to multiple reasons(valve adj, etc) can cause difficulity starting.
  15. bkuhr
    Been thinking about mod for CMS anyway. Remove all 4 coils and all 4 reeds. Jumper original coil pcb pads to nearest reed switch pcb pad. This allows orginal external IN and OUT wires to work where the reed switch was. External CMS on MC wiring cut each IN and OUT wire and and splice to each other on MC side. On CMS side of cut external wiring, splice to extend all wires cut with small gauge wire(24ga 4 pair telco wire), as these will now be used only for signaling and not carrying load power. With as above, CMS warning lamps effected, H head lamp; L head lamp; tail lamp; brake lamp, will be inop and not display any warning-simular to bypass mod but, now I can install a photocell to detect each of the above lamps is lit, and photocell will drive small signal relay wired to above extended CMS wiring, thereby giving true warning capacity back, even with LED or HID lighting:) A little more specifically, also need to have 12v applied to IN side of where reed switch was when lighting circuit is on, and relay will apply 12v at OUT side of reed switch. If 12v on IN and 0v on OUT=alarm light. 0v In and 0v OUT=no alarm(light circuit off), 12v In and 12V OUT= no alarm(light circuit on and working properly) Watch ya think?
  16. bkuhr
    current passes thru the coils in the CMS to active the magnetic reed switches between the coils for the warning lights. Most likely solder connections melted and can be repaired, but it is such a pain to get the CMS out:crying:
  17. bkuhr
    on 83. Did not notice when last was working (maybe last year), but just finished fuse upgrade and added running/fog light and stebil horn. Running tail light works. Also added 4 relays 1. headlight and acc bypass ignition key switch(at fuse panel){to limit load on key switch} 2. fog light 3. horn 4. spare, not used at this time checked foot brake switch and have 12v on1 side, and 12v on other side when either foot or handle brake applied. 0v when switch normal. CMS no indication of problem. pulled and replaced both brake bulbs, no change removed truck and got to rear 3 wire connector at brake light 12v on blue(running) 12v on yellow(brake) when brake applied//??4v when brake off?? good ground on black temp jumpered power to yellow side of connector and bulbs worked(sockets ok) semi perm installed jumper from rear brake switch output to yellow at brake housing now all works ok, but have CMS fault(tail lts) only when brake applied Thinking lack of current(amps) to drive brake lights due to corrosion or partial open even though I have 12v at brake housing. Unsure why I have 4v when brake off(corrosion )? Probably need to pull seat (if I can remember how) and check underseat harness, but I am suspecting problem with the CMS(such a pain to pull dash) any other ideas?
  18. bkuhr
    While you haave the carbs out, also pull the battey box and pull the TCI out a plan to relolocate it to the top if the air cleaner. You will be glad you did if later you need to work on the TCI, as you could have diode issues(topic for later)
  19. bkuhr
    might suggest take or draw pic of shift links, and mark punch marks to reassemble the same
  20. bkuhr
    That plastic 4 chamber box forward of the carbs is the YICS box, about guarantee it has vacum leaks. Many here suggest get rid of it and plug the ports on the intake where the hoses were with heavy duty rubber plugs. Disconnecting throttle cables at the carbs is a pain, and is easier to seperate at the slider behind the left faring. May deicde if any other issues with bike before starting such at electrical, and if so make the decision to pull the fairings. Many here ready to help as you go
  21. bkuhr
    Thining out loud here, think I misunderstood problem first time, Summary, as I understand it: Bike starts and runs fine but sometimes dies while running and will not restart nor will starter engage and tach shoots up. Question, is there complete loss of electric-ie dash lights,etc? My first impression is a loose ground, big one from battery to engine, and little on from battery, thru connector, to frame. Disconnect and clean all these grounds. My second thought is loss of ignition power either at key switch or igntion fuse. Loss of complete power, suspect switch. Remove ignition fuse and clean contacts and make sure tight, consider replace fuse holder if OEM glass barrel fuse-skydoc17 has kit to replace all fuses with ATC type. My last thought is interconnection relays/sensors such as side stand as you mentioned. Suggest we eliminate above prior to trying to find intermittant relay problem.
  22. bkuhr
    Not sure if RSV has same as 1st gen, but my first guess would be resistor caps corroded causing weak/intermittant spark.
  23. bkuhr
    Not sure how much it applies, but here in Bowling Green we have an OLD subdivision with lot of old retired people that have delivery to the door. Local post master wanted to change route to street side delivery, and sent out letter to all residence to place mail boxes on odd side of street. Needless, people thru a fit and media complained about crimpled people having to cross the street to get mail, etc, etc, etc. Local and state gov reps involved and turns out Local Postmaster does not have authority to change any existing routes or means of delivery, not even sequencly as a house is bought and sold.
  24. bkuhr
    Wonder if someone did head/cam work and got valve timing 180 out? If so I don't think all 4 are hitting correct.
  25. bkuhr
    HF no longer sells the MC changer:crying:. I looked at tire and due to large profile of tire overhanging rim, I am doubtful HF changer clamps could reach the rim anyway. I have auto changing stand simular to HF and made MC changer tifit it out of 15" auto rim. Had to stick 2x4 to raise MC tire for auto bead breaker, but worked great. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=56658 PS, DO add MiCarls 2x2 brace, had nasty lump on head from flying tire spoons-then added brace:bang head:
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