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bkuhr

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Everything posted by bkuhr

  1. bkuhr
    I think your choices were 1200 or 1300 engine, so the above should be correct.
  2. bkuhr
    Gary, just googled 'ignition coil schematic' every one that came up with neg pulse trigger showns both primary and secondary coils common ground simular to your choice 'A' Would suggest getting a CBR schematic just to be sure
  3. bkuhr
    http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/model_years/5086-yamaha-1984-xvz12dl/assemblies/154008 double check correct model/year/engine size now that was worth $12, wasnt it
  4. bkuhr
    I get about 5 20% coupons every week, have about 30 stocked up. Anyone need one? Don, need to look back thru the adds, but don't think I saw this lift, will check this afternoon.
  5. bkuhr
    glad it worked out:thumbsup:
  6. bkuhr
    All this may be true, but due to problem I just had http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58270 I really believe the AGM, and maybe other types of new technology batteries, are REALLY sensitive to discharge below spec. My best suggestion is to avoid discharge, especially during testing-use a charger to keep battery up during testing. I have my battery back from battries plus in above post, and been running on new tender/desulphite mode for better than 1 week. When I picked it up it was operating at 270cca, may take back and get load tested again to see if desulphate has helped any.
  7. bkuhr
    Thanks Monty new link http://img560.imageshack.us/g/71oil.jpg/ brian
  8. bkuhr
    My account has been down for at least a week with the following message I get at login, I cant do anything except get this message. Member here has PM'd for my pics of progressive fork rebuild-linked to photobucket, and doesn't work. There are 71 pics I had on photobucket. Still have on PC, dont think I can PM 71 pics, and likely limit on #pics/email. Any suggestions on another photohosting site? Any ideas what problem is with photobucket and if likely be restored or pics lost? Brian Photobucket Site Maintenance http://pic.photobucket.com/logos/PbLogo.350.gif New Maintenance Update Photobucket customers, Let me begin by once again expressing my apologies for the issues you have been experiencing, and for the delay in restoring service. We continue to work diligently to resolve the problems and would like to keep you up-to-date on how things are going. The vast majority of you that were impacted should now or very soon notice that your accounts and images are back up again. However, not every user has been restored to service; we still are working to restore less than 1% (0.25%) of our user base. If your account is still not working, please be assured that we know about it and continue to work toward fully restoring service for all users as quickly as possible. We will continue to provide updates as they occur. We hear your frustration and appreciate all of your feedback. Thank you, Jim Goss VP of Operations
  9. bkuhr
    Wonder if there is any way to find out how much ethenol is really in the gas at different filling stations. May be cause of mpg differences.
  10. bkuhr
    Started when I switched dash lights out with LEDs. Suspect issue always there, but unseen with incandescent dash bulbs. I noticed every time I shifted up or down, any gear, neutral light would illuminate for just a fraction of a second. I was at first thinking mechanical, (play in shift shaft against neutral switch) as it seemed to happen just as clutch was re-engaging. Then I remembered that there was a clutch lever switch in the neutral cutout starting circuit. After playing with clutch lever some more, I believe the issue is in this electrical circuit. Does not matter if I shift or not, nor how much I may feather the clutch, always lights at same point just before clutch lever at full release (suspect point for lever switch). Also always just a fraction of a second flash, even if I play aroung the spot of the lever switch, I can not get neutral to stay lit for any more than a flash, unless in neutral of course. Not sure what exactly is happening in the circuit, but as I found out with the RLU dash light, the new LED bulbs will illuminate full bright with less than 2volts stray voltage. Not calling it a problem, and not likely worth time to figure out and correct/bypass/mod..etc. Just interesting fluke from using LEDs.
  11. bkuhr
    Here are some pics of my 83 CMS mod. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58292 I did this to bypass head and tail lights, but also diagram of what pins are what function
  12. bkuhr
    BrianB, I see by your other post you have a bunch of typical problems on your 28 year old bike. Read the tech articles and familiarize yourself with how things work, Then ask questions. The members here have seen and done it all and are very willing to help! The reason I reposted here is when you get the new master reservoir I am sending you, is to make you aware that, in stock configuration, the rear brake is linked to the left front brake, as well as antidive unit. Special procedure for bleeding, and options for delinking. Here a link to get you to the manuals. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=3384 download service and parts manual and keep on your computer for reference
  13. bkuhr
    Don't think my crimper will help ya-sorry Went and checked against spark plug wire gage, with largest setting of crimper and pins closed, leaves a gap between .06 and .08in, about .070. I think your .232 dia ends will go into tool, but .07 crimp on .06 wire would almost completely pierce your new cable ends rather than just crimp then. Did read a couple forums on google, seems most factory ends are molded lead. Maybe make a ceramic mold then pour lead onto cable ends? BTW, I have bunch of Pb/Sb(lead/antimony) from old lead telephone cables.(pretty solid compared to plane lead)
  14. bkuhr
    Brian, PM sent
  15. bkuhr
    Gary, I have an aircraft electrical pin crimping tool. It has 4 opposing crimp pins that move toward center as handle is squeezed. Only problem is the largest diameter crimp looks to be 1/16 inch(for a pin with 12awg wire), gets very small from there, and 1/16 may be too small for you application Also have seen simular ferrells at Lowes in the wire and chain and thimbles. Dont believe I have seen any small enough for throttle cable thou, may check small engine/lawn mower repair shop for thimbles, and maybe tool. I also use at work a hex crimp tool for RG58 coax. The coax center pin crimper would be about the size you are looking for. simular item I use http://www.cablesforless.com/p-667-crimp-tool-hex-ratchet-rg58-rg59-rg62-rg6.aspx, the 3rd hole from the end is the center pin crimp
  16. bkuhr
    I have one from an 83 venture Not best shape but should work, had cover screw broke off, but finally got it out and retapped.
  17. bkuhr
    open the drain just a turn or so will start fuel draining from bowls, rig up a tube on the drain nipple and catch fuel in glass container for inspection for debris. Your problem seems to be stuck floats due to overflow, and it may be more helpful to rap on each carb with screwdriver handle to try to dislodge any debris in the float needle both before drain, and during drain with pump running.
  18. bkuhr
    Well, Batteries Plus just called they were able to recover battery to 270CCA, rated 330CCA. sounds to me like sulphided plates, although I did not think this was a problem with AGM At least it did not drop a plate a someone above suggested. I appreciate the recommendations to use DEKA, but feel trapped into what I have-at least until it comes time to buy another battery. At that time I will get a DEKA. FYI I bought the new battery yesterday for $86, and Earl lists DEKA as $105. Not big difference, but someone stated earlier that DEKA was 1/2 Guess I will go pick the battery up and keep it as spare, better than letting them have it as a $10 core. New tender states it runs a 'anti sulphide' maintenance program (3.26Mhz pulse during float charge)(states if less than 12.2V-25%charge-start desulphate and let it run at least 1 week) Back to my orginal question, what could have cause all this? I am guessing in the dark here, but seems AGM is very sensitve to discharge below ~12v, and I messed up letting it get to 10V during my testing. Apperantly sulphate forms on plates during discharge, then higher then normal internal resistance during charge with my normal charger caused even more sulfide to form until cells were eventually isolated from each other. Complete removal of sulphide should get battery back to near like new condition, unsure if desulphide function of tender will do the job but will try. What have I learned? Assuming my summation is correct, always keep AGM battery on tender, especially during testing, don't let it get run down below 12V, and if it does put on a desulfide charger ASAP! Also never charge any small equipment batteries at a charge rate higher than 2 amps!
  19. bkuhr
    heres my dash 1pic in dark,no flash, long exp key acc 2pic in dark, no flash, long exp key on-neutral light washes out 3pic in light key on 4pic bulbs I used note rlu light dim orange, not normally noticable, but reason had to keep 158 bulb, little voltage lights LED full
  20. bkuhr
    Por 15 stated ok all fuels including high alcohol http://www.por15.com/US-STANDARD-TANK-SEALER/productinfo/TSG/
  21. bkuhr
    Ok,here is my CMS mod. Due to failed tail light I tracked problem to the CMS and decided to complete the mod I had been planning to do... I kept all high,low,tail,brake current running thru the CMS per stock(had considered bypassing wiring external CMS but trying to not modify stock wiring),but wanted to keep the fail indicators working, but change to LED lighting that would cause fail indicators to turn on. So instead of the fail indicators being activated by the reed switches-I extended the reed switch wiring external the CMS for external input 1st pic the corrosion causing my tail light problem First removed all 4 coils and reed switches second drilled oversize holes for 14ga solid copper wire where the coils were third installed 24ga solid telco wire in place of the reed switches then I mounted canabilized RJ11 phone jack to rear cover of CMS, and connected telco wire to RJ11 with screws mounted on rear side of CMS cover 2nd pic schematic of CMS input circuits for these 4 items and modification next 4 pics removed coils and drilled holes next 2 pics RJ11 jack install last pic I sealed board with finger nail polish to prevent future corrosion Simple phone extension cord plugged into RJ11 brings wiring where needed for future direct light monitoring, and allows easy disconnect for future dash removal Now I need to apply a frame ground to keep the warning lights off- easy to build future circuit to open frame ground during a failure of direct light monitoring circuit of hi,low,tail,brake. I also replaced all dash indicators with LEDs from superbrightleds.com found I had to reinstall 1 158 back into reserve light warning, due to small current always on lights up LED full. I put in blue back lights, and white warning lights. Only problem is Green neutral looks blue. Would suggest green LED here. All tested and works as advertised.
  22. bkuhr
    Gary, just though of something, try to put it the left fairing where the radio amp was.
  23. bkuhr
    I used por 15 after brasing pinholes that appeared after sanding external rust Seems to have done a great job http://www.por15.com/CYCLE-TANK-REPAIR-KIT/productinfo/CTRK/
  24. bkuhr
    History, 83 venture. PO battery junk and replaced with AGM dec09 from batterys plus. April 2010 battery blew up like basket ball(case swelled)-likely my fault, charged with auto battery charger at about 10A. Battery Plus honored warrenty and replaced april 2010 Currently working on electrical mods, and about 1 month testing on bike(key on, test, key off....)battery down to 10V, never any power problems during any testing. Mods done and working great, last night decided to charge (4A) and ride in AM. AM charger shows failure, key on and everything dead.(clock display on key off then disappears key on). V check battery=9V, amp check accross battery(20A scale)=.1A try to recharge, and computer charger detects fault and fails to start. Back to Batterys Plus, they test simular readings, are trying to recover battery but likely hopeless-not responding correctly to charger, warrenty expired, purchase new battery and tender(battery minder plus). If they manage to recover will be spare. pictured 1-battery using, 2-computerized charger using, 3- new tender Now the question, What could have caused the AGM to go completely dead overnight while on computerized charger, and it was fine power wise prior to charging? Do I need to be leary of my computerized charger? Fixing to go out and check key off load test, and amp test computer charger(on auto battery) to verify 2-4-6amp readings are correct. will post update. Not having much luck with AGMs, what am I doing wrong? update key off=.6mA charger at 2A=2.7A, at 4A=4.0A, at 6A=5.0A, charges for just 1 pulse then quickly detects complete charge and shuts down charge complete on all 3 cycles
  25. bkuhr
    As I live in Bowling Green KY, I would be willing to go look if you can get a real address, but FWIW, the soil in both the city and county is red clay, and in the pictures it looks like white sand.
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