M61A1MECH

The two top bolts have had their heads drilled off, the one lower left has been sheared off, maybe during an attempt to remove it. The remaining bolt has the punch mark from where it was staked when assembled. I wonder where the top retainer plate is? Those bolt have loctite on them so naturally will be hard to remove. I have never seen this issue before, the will certainly need to carefully drill them out and maybe put a helicoil or timesert in there if they damage the threads. http://www.timesert.com/

Can also be the seals on the water pump, there is a shaft that come out of the crank case to drive the water pump, has seals on one side to keep oil out of the coolant and seals on the other side to keep coolant out of the oil. Many of us have had to rebuild the water pump.

Yes that is the one I was talking about and yes to the best of my recollection that is powered through the ignition and if you need more than 5 AMPs use it to turn on a relay and run fused battery power through the relay contacts. PM me with your mailing address if you need or want the proper pins and seals for that connector.

Here is another way to get power to the USB charging port if it needs more than 5 amps. Use the small white connector to switch on a relay when the ignition is turned on, run a fused circuit from the battery to the Normally Open contacts of the relay to power the USB charging port. Using this method you could actually power up a hub with a couple of power circuits if you wanted to.

That would be correct. If you have not found it yet, here is a link to the wiring diagrams for the Gen II Royal Star Ventures.

Actually there is a small white two pin connector on the left side down by the battery, it is a low amperage maybe 5 amps max, I am pretty sure it is switched with the ignition. When you find it you will see that what you have is a dummied off connector with a seal pug in where the wire with a seal goes, you could also access that. You could do as I proposed above and put a fuse in the circuit going to the USB charger to protect the tail light circuit, you do not want to lose that light because the USB port goes south. Here is link to an old post about that connector near the battery maybe this will help. If you decide to go with the white 2-pin, I have the correct contacts and seals for that style connector.

I do not know if there are any ignition switched power sources with connectors close to the trunk. I do not have a Venture any more so I cannot investigate to find a suitable source of power. I make a breakout harness that plugs in under the seat to access the rear lighting circuits, the tail light circuit has constant power that is switched with the ignition. There are bullet connectors in the triable shaped housing behind the license plate you can access the tail light circuit and ground there, but I am not sure there is an elegant way to get wires from behind the license plate into the trunk. I suspect no matter where you pick power up you are going to need to pull the driver and passenger seat to do the install, so maybe using my under the seat break out could work, it is only a matter of a few feet of wire. I could make a special harness with extra long leads for the tail light and ground to get you back to the trunk area. I know here is room in the existing wire management clips and clamps to where you can lace two extra wires in from under the seat back to the trunk. Here is a link to my under the seat break out harness. Please note there may be a slight price increase as the post office has just raised their rates, I am researching now to determine the impact to my published prices.

Yes, brown with blue stripe or tracer should be correct.

If you have not found it yet, this is the best all round Goldwing forum, https://www.gl1800riders.com/ . I have visited the F6B forums from time to time and managed to get sideways with the owner of one of them, we had a few words and I told him to take a flying leap at rolling doughnut, just beware, wish I could remember which forum it was.

You are going to really enjoy that bike.

Post a picture of your bike, we can then confirm to you what you purchased. I have seen many RoadStars listed as RoyalStars and vice versa on Craigs list and other places.

Thanks, no I have not had a need or any real desire put my foot in it, my street racing days are way behind me, it is enough to just enjoy the machine and admire the craftsmanship.

Dion, if the factory plugs have burned up or melted that tells me that there is not enough safety factor built into the original system, adding connections to that system could further decrease the current carrying capacity due to increased resistance in the system. So to add a bit of safety factor to your system you may want to consider If possible, increasing the wire size on your components to 12 AWG and install a 20 amp fuse. The key bit of information missing here is how much current is normally required for that circuit to work? Is the peak load transient? I am thinking it is probably higher during starting verse normal operation, for short term high current the heat load on the wires and the connectors should be minimal, but if there is 20 or 30 amps running through the circuit all the time the heating could considerably higher. Maybe build a system or two with what ever mods you think would be most beneficial and ask one or two of your previous customers to install them and test them for you to make sure the fuse and wire sizes are sufficient. Any idea what gauge the wires are in the OEM harness on the bike ?

Correct I made same mistake , read relay, but old brain interpreted fuse, so as long as it is fused accordingly for the circuit and wire size it should be good.

14 awg is not rated for 40 amps. Does the circuit draw 40 amps normally? Here is a link to generic wire size verse rated current. http://wiresizecalculator.net/wiresizechart.htm, there is some slight increases in the ampacity for the same conductor size based on the material used for the insulation, if you need to safely carry 40 amps you need to be around a 100 awg.