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bkuhr

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Everything posted by bkuhr

  1. bkuhr
    The 4 coils are for brake light, tail light, headlight high, and headlight low. All current for each circuit flows thru the coil for that circuit. The coil acts as an electromagnic to activate the reed switch in the middle of the coil/s. The reed switch actually activates the fail icons on the display. It is possible you can still save your CMU, because the high current was restriced to only the coil and seperate from the rest of the circutry. If the high heat was bad enough to burn the PCB or other nearby components, then CMU is probably toast. The PCB traces, coils, and solder connection is only rated for x number of amps. If a higher than normal wattage lamp installed, could have overloaded. Also if resolder job was not done very well(preferable with silver solder vs rosin solder) could have left a higher than zero ohm solder junction, and resistance plus amps = heat. Repair melted/lifted PCB traces with wire soldered to the traces. The surface area of the repair wire needs to be at least the surface area of the traces. Use only silver solder and ensure good solder flow. Make sure you leave no solder bridges to other components/traces. Scrape green or blue coating of traces first to get down to the copper. If using higher than stock electrical loads(lights), use relays rated to handle the high loads. Relay control can be run thru stock controls. Same applies to current run thru grip switches-use relays, and headlight current does run thru starter switch. High headlamp load can cause starter switch to arc and spark until it fails.
  2. bkuhr
    Still need to check for vacum leaks, you probably good on most items when you removed carbs, but YICS chambers are VERY prone to leak. Most here recommend remove them and plug ports.
  3. bkuhr
    Oil Stator cooling kit BTW, can be had $20+shipping
  4. bkuhr
    Thanks for all replies, aware of bypass-even has new o-ring, have not tried to run with bypass open, but once this calm down I seem to run just above 1/2 of green scale-seems about right. Coolant tank at 1/2 low and full. Fan appears to be working at correct temp-just at red, (BUT does fan actually help with cooling if thermostat is closed and no/limited flow thru radaitor) Question is, is it normal for temp to run all the way up to the red? I am thinking the thermostat is sticking when opening, but when it gets open everything is as it should be. Should thermostat be replaced? If so with what? OEM/auto(type?)
  5. bkuhr
    83VR STD On cold start, warms up at idle or cruise until temp on gauge reads right at red/green line. Fan also comes on at red/green line, even at 50degF. Then suddenly starts to cool down to about 3/4 middle green. Then starts to rise all the way back to the red/green line. Does this cycle apx 3-4 times until finally cools to just above 1/2 middle green. Then it stays here rest of cruise, unless stopped in traffic, where it climbes back to red/green, fan cools to about 3/4, and cruising again cools to 1/2. Thinking thermostat sticking when cold, and takes over high temp to get it to open. Opionions?
  6. bkuhr
    Check for air leaks under carbs, with engine idling -with choke on if necessary, spray carb cleaner around carb boots, YICS box, all vacum hoses, sync plugs, etc and check for change in idle rpm. If idle changes, you have an air leak. It needs fixed before you will run normal .5ma drain with all off and charge 13.5 seems like your electrical system is going to be ok. I think you should be closer to 14 volts charging, when you get to 3000-3500 rpm.
  7. bkuhr
    Congrats on the electrical system, as far as getting it running lets try a base line sync. Back off idle screw, With air cleaner off, look down in carb throat, hold sliders open and work throttle-see how butterflies work. Now adjust sync adjust screws in accordance with sync procedure, except you are trying to adjust butterflies until they are completely closed in the throats. Now adjust idle screw until butterflies just barley crack open. Also good practice of how doing sync later with sync sticks/gages Now start it up and adjust idle screw enough to keep it running, unless there are other problems such as no fuel.....
  8. bkuhr
    Now I'm thinking maybe clutch basket bushing broke and basket jammed shifter cam at the same time disenagaing clutch drive gear. Suggest pull clutch cover & inspect. Others may have other ideas
  9. bkuhr
    When I put mine back together I made the mistake of getting it backwards. Forget excatly how, and as I am traveling for work I don't have my scoot to take a pic. I think the push rod from the pedal needed up, or down, I don't remember. Any way, I found kicking down would shift up-to 5 and stop. (sounds like yours), kicking up shifted down. was easy fix, just take pedal back off and reverse.
  10. bkuhr
    While you have your meter out and bike apart, on the assumption you may have charging problem, check your stator windings. If bad will need replaced, and what better time than when bike is already apart. Stator windings are the 3 white wires in 3 pin connector mentioned earlier. Open this connector and test 3 white wires toward motor with digital OHM meter. (Your Fluke should be fine). Set meter on lowest ohm scale, short meter leads and see what meter reads, .1 or .2 ohms make a difference. Subtract this reading (lead resistance and meter error) from test readings. Test each white wire to each other. A good reading is .42 ohms +-15% @ 68degF. Lets round this off to .4 ohms. .2 ohms is bad, don't ask how I know! We can deal with possible bad RR(regulaor/rectifier) when you have motor running. There are some ohm tests we could do to RR, testing rectifier portion only, but a good test only means part of RR good but regulator portion could still be bad. Best wait till running, then we can do proper volts checks.
  11. bkuhr
    You can snap retaining clamp off valve, pull valve body, and reassemble in on position. Have a catch can to get gas that comes out during. May tear up oring in process though.
  12. bkuhr
    Did same thing and had to replace valve. I marked new valve operating range with blue paint marker. Bottom of valve operates 1/4 turn from slot straight down(on) to left (off). I tried to cut slot into old valve to work screwdriver, and worked 1 time before broke again.
  13. bkuhr
    Alright, I checked my 83 strd and I got .567mA which is .00567A. Are you sure your meter didn't read .5 on the mA scale? If you really have 500mA, then we still have a problem to find.
  14. bkuhr
    Good meter, Anyone else have idea correct key off current? Sounds like good test, now we need to decide if 1/2amp is to much to keep troubleshooting. I'll check mine tomorrow and post back.
  15. bkuhr

    Loctite 249

    bkuhr replied to heatonmt's topic in Watering Hole

    Mike, This ones for you. You can't spill it on the plastic if you tried
  16. bkuhr
    500ma is 1/2 amp, and while not a whole lot, seems a bit high to me for the keep alive circuit of the clock, and even though other circuits are wired to 40A main, they should not be on and drawing any current. Seems to me clock should be in area of 5ma. Maybe you read/converted scale you were on incorrectly. Anywho, I agree with you, and we need to check charging circuit when you get it running, and maybe come back to current with key off later. Suggest keep battery unwired from bike, until needed, as 1/2amp draw will probable kill battery in under 1 week. If you have plastic off, recommend keep it off until everything fixed, some connectors/dash/etc will be difficult later if needed, with plastic on.
  17. bkuhr
    In Bowilng Green KY, There has for the last 4-5 years been a St. Jude raffle for a NEW HOUSE. Bunch of local business, and building contractors donate to build house. This years house was appraised at $400,000 and this year they have an option if you won to instead take $200,000 cash. Tickets have always been $100 for a chance to win, and they limit number of tickets issued. This year I think limit was 7,500. Other smaller items also given away. Drawing this year is over, but if they do it again next year, I will post internet address to purchase tickets.
  18. bkuhr
    Played with HAM long time ago in high school electronics. Never got much into it, but seems to me ground plane was important. Hows this works on scoot with next to nothing for sheetmetal as in cage? Also would be a little concerned of effect of 100watt HF transmitter within feet of unsheilded scoot electonics such as TCI in plastic box. We (telco) are infrequently fighting ham operators causing interference on copper phone lines. Usually operator need to re-adjust antenna. Good job getting it working, would make good mobile base for local emergencies:thumbsup2:
  19. bkuhr
    Sniff..Sniff I know that smell
  20. bkuhr
    Something as low current as the clock will show 12volts in the manner you have meter hooked up. Need to measure for amps/milliamps, and find the high current draw, if you have one. Haven't mentioned yet that you could have a different problem such as alternator not charging battery, but due to your suspision of current draw with key off, this needs to be eliminated first. Most meters have a different port for the red lead to hook into when measuring AMPS, and typically have a fuse in this port, and give no indication if fuse is blown. So if you have a zero reading, need to verify fuse before trusting meter. Best way I found to verify meter is to place red and black leads accross flashlight or 9 volt (low amp) battery and see if meter moves, yes meter ok, no check fuse or meter setup. Do not do this accross MC or auto battery or you will blow meter. MILLIAMPS typically use same port as volts, and if volts meter works, milliamp meter should work, try flashlight battery again very quickly to verify meter. The reason we start this test with highest AMP scale, is we suspect current-enough to drain battery, but have no idea how much, and with a meter set up for measuring amps/milliamps runs ALL the suspected current THRU THE METER. If there is too much current for the meter setup/range selection, the meter can be burned up/fuse blown. Question how to use meter, check your documention, or send pic of your meter.
  21. bkuhr
    Not trying to belittle anyone, and I personally do like circuit breakers. My whole point is that thermal circuit breakers, by design, can allow higher than rated current to be passed without opening for extended periods of time. Just providing info, for those who may be interested. The most critical electronic component on our scoot IMO is the ignition TCI, And would hate to needlessly burn on up. Now to be fair, any fault we would normally experiance that would blow a fuse, would be a hard short, and a hard short WILL open a circuit breaker in milliseconds. Also, if there was an internal TCI fault that would blow a fuse, probably makes no differance if a circuit breaker was slow to open, because the TCI has a fault!
  22. bkuhr
    FYI Society of Automotive Engineers Standard SAE J553 Standard J553 defines testing and performance requirements for circuit breakers up to 50A for 6V, 12V, and 24V operation. It defines the three types of reset: Type I, Type II and Type III. Conforming circuit breakers: Must carry 100% of rated current continuously for a minimum of 1 hour Must open at 135% of rated current within 1 hour Must open at 200% of rated current within 1 minute The specific current capacity of the circuit breaker is a function of the particular electrical system being utilized. It is recommended that the actual performance be verified through testing experimentally in the proposed application.
  23. bkuhr
    Meter needs to be set to measure milliamps, start with highest A or mA scale you have, with all fuses etc hooked up normal and key OFF, and if no or low reading, scale down. Disconnect + wire from battery and place red lead of meter on battery+, and black lead from meter on the + wire you disconnected. If you truly have something ON when the key is OFF, you will have a meter indication of some milliamps, meaning current is flowing even when the key is off. Then start pulling fuses, until you find the one when your meter indication drops to zero. This is the circuit causing problems. It is possible for multiple circuits to cause problems, and meter would drop 'a bit' for each circuit fuse you pulled. If this is the case, keep track of how much each 'trouble' circuit dropped. Need to start troubleshooting with the worst one first. There are a couple of circuits that work directly off the main 40A fuse, ie:clock,hazard,audio,and rectifier. Of these the rectifier is a likely culprit as they can short out. There is a wire harnes down low left side near footpeg with, I think, can't remember off hand, a 6 wire connector. It has 3 white wires coming from alternator and other wires from rectifier and bike. Opening this plug with take rectifier circuit off for your check same as above. Also check this connector for signs of over heating/melting/burning. It is common, but needs fixed. Let us know what you find, and if you think helpful, take pics. Looking at wire diagram I am wrong about which 6 pin connector for the rectifier. It is the 6 pin connector with 2 red, 2 black and 1 brown wire. The 3 pin connector with 3 white wires is the one that burns frequently, and comes from the alternator to the rectifier. The rectifier is mounted inside the left frame between the frame and the swing arm.
  24. bkuhr
    Mil-spec 3320 aircraft circuit breakers, that these appear to be, are thermal breakers. A good breaker will open a 1000%(rated amps) in .1sec, but a good breaker will not open a 138%(rated amps) overload after 1 hour. This means a 10amp breaker will not open with a 13.8amp load. I would suggest putting a fuse back in the TCI circuit, or install underrated circuit breaker.
  25. bkuhr
    Also while preforming Dano's test, disconnect regulator-rectifier
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