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Showing results for tags 'knob'.
Found 25 results
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Trying to clean the carbs but I'm stuck on step number one. It says remove the choke knob. Now I've tried twisting it off and pulling it off but I really didn't have any luck with it. Tried taking a short cut but i would really like to follow the book. Sooooo. Does anyone know how to get that knob off of there?
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I'm sure I should have known this but..... I was installing my new ClearView screen which requires removing (at least partially) the front fairing piece. I've had that off once before but this time I notice that there is a knob on the left side way down near the bottom of the fairing for adjusting the headlight. Don't know why I never saw it before.
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I'm needing the control knob for the Squelch Control on the CB. I think the Off/On volumn CB control knob is the same. If anyone has one to sell please PM me.
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Hey guys, I need your input on an idea I came up with to provide a total seat solution that will allow you to remove both seats without any tools. For some time now several of us have come up with seat nut solutions that allow us to remove the driver seat without any tools. These have ranged from plastic nuts, wing nuts and my solution of using a nylon locking nut pressed and glued into a Press-Fit knob. But, this solution requires some extra assembly work where I have to drill out the center of the knob, tap threads into the nylon ring in the lock nut to the point of just the right friction on the seat bolt, and then glue and press this nut backwards into a press-fit knob, where the glue I use requires overnight to dry properly. Right now I have been selling my seat thumb nuts for $6 which includes postage to anywhere in the US. So for another $2, I could also provide a set of stainless press-fit thumb bolts. And putting these together is just a matter of pressing the stainless allen bolt into the same knurled knob and it's ready to go. So with both of these, you would have a total tool less seat solution. So if you don't mind, let me know what you think of this idea. I have attached a picture of both sets of seat nuts/bolts. Thanks, Rick And FYI 1st Gen owners....I already provide a total tool less seat solution for your bikes -
Here is some footage from the Knob Creek Machine Gun Shoot last night. Fast forward to about the 50 second mark to skip the safety talk. I was lucky enough to be against the fence behind the shooters, the front row. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-UffaVss64]100_2652.MOV - YouTube[/ame] And here's some footage I caught of a Mini-Gun being shot during the night shoot. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9gWs_Rh3g7g]100 2653 - YouTube[/ame]
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http://www.shtuffforbikers.com/index.html Found this site while looking for polishing tips. I ordered the Knob Polish.
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If you are looking for a very inexpensive way to chrome your Choke this could be the answer. They want around 30.00 to 40.00 for a chrome piece that covers the existing choke knob. I wanted to get around that cost so I started to look for a plastic chrome bolt cover that would fit on the existing choke knob. It needed to be 5/8 inch in diameter. They have them at several auto parts stores, napa, petboys,walmart and etc. I then took double sided 3M brand tape and cut a perfect round piece to fit on the back of the plastic chrome cover. I slightly angled the back of the scotch tape that presses on the existing choke knob. This way you can not see any of the tape and only the nice chrome piece. I then pressed it on the existing choke knob. I really like this better than buying the type that you have to connect to the choke knob with screws and etc. Its easy to remove if later you wish to remove it and your right back to stock. It also saves on fuel do to the weight difference!! ha ha :rotf:Hope that this helps someone who is poor like me. Not everyone can affort REAL CHROME!!! DanC:cool10: The tape is 3M two sided tape, not regular scotch tape, needed to carify the tape used, and it will stay forever until you "really" want it off and then it will take some effort!!! If you do need to remove it for some reason I would recommend useing GOO GONE, or GOOF OFF to help remove all the sticky material from the Choke knob,.
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I know there's a few other threads on this but figgured I'd start a new one to get some feedback on what ya'll may have done with your Choke Knob... Here's what I did... Got a "plain jane" drawer knob made of aluminum, cut the threaded extension off and JB welded it to my choke knob. Whatcha'll think and whatcha'll done if'n ya done it???
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I got an email from Sean that he is now offering a new choke knob that matches the key cover that several of us have on our RSVs. I think it looks great and will be ordering one soon. He says that they are not yet on his website so to use the information in this flier if you wish to order one. http://www.venturerider.org/images/starparts.jpg
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83 fuel petcock valve
DesertRider posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I changed out my fuel filter this morning - hate lining up that set-screw that holds the clamp to the fuel tank. When I went to open the fuel valve back up, the little plastic square knob on the fuel shut-off valve shattered like glass. As a temporary measure to get the gas turned back on so I can use it, I'm going to try to jb-quick weld a make-shift knob onto the sheared off plastic that's fairly flush with the metal valve body. If that don't work, anybody got any other ideas ? Also - when I cut the gas off, the indicator in the knob was vertical for on. I think I turned it one/quarter turn to the left to turn it off. Before I put any turning pressure on a glued on know, I wanted to ask if anyone with a working petcock can check and make sure that as you face the valve from the right side of the bike, that the valve needs to go 1/4 turn to the right (if it was a screw that would be the tightening direction to turn it on). Anybody got a petcock valve for sale ? -
It seems my volume knob quit working. The speakers beep when I change FM stations. No display when rotating the volume control. This is true for radio, cassette and aux. All other displays work and I can cycle through every selection. There is sound when CB is on but I cannot control it with the colume knob. SP is selected not HS. Just wondering if anyone else has had this propblem before I begin tearing things apart. Semper Fi Mark
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Ever since I bought my 99 venture the choke knob will not stay out keeps pulling back. I have to hold the choke knob, not sure if I need to tighten a screw but had the tank off and everything looks ok. Screaming Red:nanner:
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Just bought an 88 VR and see some things I have questions about. A while back, I asked about rev limiters on first gens and seemed none had them like the 2nd gen do. Well, I was looking at the 1st gen (86-93) service manual and saw something electronic that said it's putpose was to limit engine revs. Can't remember what part it was and don't have that with me. So, do 88s have a rev limiter? Also, (looking at photos because I haven't picked the bike up yet) I see what looks like a lumbar adjustment cable for the passenger backrest. Is that what that cable does? Looks like it is managed from a lever on the right side near the passenger's grab rail. One more question from a photo: I see a black, kinda round, notched, 3 or 4 position knob with a red arrow over it on the left side in front of the fuel pump. But I can't read what is written on the knob. Is that a fuel tank reserve valve or something or do these bikes just have a low fuel warning light that tells you it's on reserve? Thanks for any info. I could find out Monday when I go get the bike, but I am just too curious (and bored at work) tonight. Rusty -
i notice that people are changing the bolts inside their bags to knob bolts for eazy removing. i have found a supplier that sales a snap lock star knob that you can use the same stock bolts. if you are interested the web site is www.hartvilletool.com. you can get a package of 10 for 7.99 + shipping. item #41813 or you can use keyword knobs.
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Hey guys I am looking for a volume knob for my radio on my first Gen. not the tone (outer) but the volume (on/off) knob. Does anyone know where I can fid one or does anyone have one they would like to part with? I was going to post this in the classifieds but figured more people would see it here. Thanks in advance, Paul
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Does anyone have an extra knob that fits the CB radio on a lst Edition? I am missing one and would gladly pay someone for whatever it may be worth to them (PayPal). I probably could find a replacement at an electronics place, but I doubt it would match. T Thanks
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Does anybody have a broken radio control unit laying around? I lost (broke) the volume knob off of mine. Of course, you can't just replace the knob, you need to replace the whole unit - to the tune of $600+!! Any help is much appreciated!
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After searching and reading over the searched items on this forum, I didn't find a quick homemade fix of a fuel petcock knob replacement for an '84 Venture. Understanding that most just leave it on reserve and forget about it because: -too awkward to reach while riding anyway -who needs prime when you have a fuel pump -$36 to replace with an OEM plastic one I still would like to make it functional and am thinking of things to thread in the existing petcock, such as a bolt with some kind of flat headed bolt to have enough leverage to be able to turn on occasion. Mine is missing the knob altogether. Metal would hold up better anyway, right? Any thoughts?
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My speedometer neddle is resting on bottom of the instrument panel. Been this way since I bought the bike. I thought I would open up the instrument panel and see if i can re-attach the needle. I have the instrument panel out of the bike (using the great instructions found on this site). I've removed the 6 pan-head screws located along edge of the back panel. The illumination knob seems to be preventing a complete speration however. There doesn't appear to be an obvious way of removing the knob externally. Am I missing something (probably)? Any help help or suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks, Vince 84' Venture -
Thank you for taking my question. Are the headlights on a Venture "remotely adjusted" while setting on the bike from somewhere on the fairing or done somewhere else on the front of the bike? This option is listed on the features page of the bike on the Star website but I can`t find any knob or electric switch to make this work. Excuse my ignorance and any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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My 87 VR doesn't have a knob on the reserve valve for the gas tank. Anybody have one extra or can tell me where I can get one? Kevin
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First let me say that I am not the originator of this information. While at Don's maintenance day, one of our members was running around with a pair of needle-nose pliers adjusting the carb linkage tabs on various bikes. I am very sorry that I do not remember who this was, as I was concentrating very hard on syncing carbs and trying to keep from wilting in the heat! I did hear enough about it while he was working on a bike next to me that I remembered to check my own bikes when I got home. Glad I did. So let's get the real person identified here so he gets proper credit! Background: Our chokes are really just an enriching circuit that makes the bike run rich while the knob is pulled out. If you look under the tank at the choke knob, you can easily see the linkage and how it moves. In this first picture you can see that linkage on the left side of the bike, and just above the throttle spring you can see the tab the goes up to engage a brass plunger: [ATTACH]18696[/ATTACH] Here is a closeup of just that tab and plunger. You can clearly see how the metal tab is touching the inside shoulder of the plunger, forcing it all the way closed when the choke knob is pushed in. This is the correct position for the tab when the choke is closed: [ATTACH]18697[/ATTACH] As you begin to pull out the choke knob, those tabs move through that notch and begin to push against the head of the plungers to pull it out of the carb, activating the enriching circuit and making the engine run better when it is cold. The free play afforded by the notch probably just makes the bike less sensitive to slight position changes of the choke knob. Those pictures were from my 07 RSV, and all four choke tabs looked fine. Now here is a picture of what I found on 3 of the four carbs on my 05 RSV: [ATTACH]18695[/ATTACH] Besides the fact that it is dirty and nasty, notice how the tab is touching the head of the plunger while the choke is supposed to be off. At the very least this is not ensuring the plunger is all the way in, and worse, it is probably actually preventing it from closing. In that case, the result could be poor fuel mileage, rough idling in the heat, fouled plugs, etc. Those tabs are very soft metal, so if any of yours do not look right, just use a pair of needle-nose pliers to slightly bend the tab to rest up against the inside shoulder of the brass plunger when the choke knob is all the way in. If you have the Yamaha chrome carb covers on your bike, you will need to remove them to see all four tabs. I do not yet know how this fix has affected my fuel mileage, but I will report back after I have had a chance to run a tank or two through it on the open road. Goose
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My low beam went out on me last night, but the high beam still worked. Had two things in my favor, 1) I was only 15 minutes or so from home and 2) have the driving lights, so I had a low beam for oncoming traffic. Looked up in the manual for some info on changing the bulb and it's an easy procedure, as long as the fairing isn't in the way. I don't have real big hands but it was a challenge to get at it from behind. Anyways got the bulb out. Came out here to see if there were any little secrets to the install, seems like everything I found online, was what I was experiencing first hand (no pun intended). I have an '01 RSV, so I'm going to assume that all the 2nd gens are the same. The adjusting knob for the the headlight slides off easily, you'll pick up some extra room to slide your hand in, install the new bulb and hook everything back up. Then just push the adjusting knob back on, it's just like a knob on a stove, has a flat side so just make sure you put it back on correctly.
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Help! Need a Volume Control Knob!!
JoeFab posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Hey All - Last week I picked up an 02 RSV Midnight Edition that was involved in a low speed wreck. It messed up the forks pretty good and some left side plastic. Other than that it looks like it's in great shape! I think that I have the plastic back in order, my new forks should be here on Monday, front fender on Tuesday. But the one part that eludes me is a volume control knob for the radio. Does anyone have out there have one? I'd be happy to pay for it. Looking at the parts book, I cannot just buy the knob from the dealer. Here's a pic of where I'm at with the repair... http://www.tomatojoe.com/Personal/no-nuthin-02.jpg I hope to have this sucker on the road this weekend! Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Joe -
The “Butler Mod” Installation Instructions Click on pictures to see larger versions. The components of this device are basically a Galfer steel braided brake line attached to a Speedway Motors compact adjustable proportioning valve (APV). The technical name for this is a “flow control valve” and it will allow you to "fine tune" the rear brake system and thus prevent severe rear brake lockup under moderate-to-heavy braking. If you can replace your OEM rear brake line with a steel braided replacement brake line then you can easily install this line. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image002.jpg So let’s start first by evacuating the brake fluid. Take the lid off of the reservoir and then either use a MityVac at the bleed valve on the caliper to suck out the fluid or attach a clear hose that will empty into a bottle or other container, and pump the brake pedal until the reservoir is empty. Now you can disconnect the brake line from the caliper and the master cylinder. At the caliper, remove the 12mm banjo bolt and use a rag to catch and brake fluid drips. Where the line goes toward the master cylinder, you will see one hose clamp on the side of the swing arm and then another on the underside of the frame next to the AIS valve. Use an 8mm socket to remove these clamps. The hose now goes forward toward the engine behind the horn on the right side of the engine. Remove the horn so you can get to the frame hose holders, where the one to the left is up under the frame swing arm housing. This spring-like holder is not removable where the rubber line grommet can be pushed out away from you. The second line holder is a heavy round rubber grommet that is held by a frame holder that looks like a large wire. You can grab the end of this wire holder with a set of vise grips or pliers and pull the end open to where this circular grommet will slip loose. Then when you put it back in with the new line you can take a flat blade screw driver and press the end closed to tighten up on the grommet. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image004.jpg One quick note on assembly. When you take this line out you will find 3 flat rubber grommets and one thicker circular one (above), all of which can be taken off and used on the new line. Just slit one side and then just peel it off the rubber brake line. The replacement steel line is a smaller diameter, so just cut about ¼” off one end and then place it on the new line and wrap it with a couple of wraps of electrical tape. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image006.jpg Now you are at the frame line cover just under the right foot board. This cover is taken off by removing the two 8mm bolts that attach this cover. You now are at the adapter going into the master cylinder. The short adapter that goes into the master cylinder is a spinning collar and when the line is held by a 14mm open end wrench, you can loosen this collar with another 14mm open end wrench and it’s off. Now when you put the cover back on when you are finished, it works better if you cut the front part of the cover back 1”. You can see from the picture below that you cut it down to about 3/8” from the bottom and then across from the front mounting hole. This cutout allows room for the line coming out of the valve so that there is no pressure on this connection. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image008.jpg Now you are ready to install the new line. For now just work with the line off of the valve and start by threading the line back toward the rear from the horn area at the rear of the engine. Remember there are two flat rubber grommets that go on the swing arm with one flat one that will slip into the spring holder and the round one into the wire holder, where you can press it in to hold the grommet. Once you get the line threaded through to the caliper, attach the 30 degree end to the caliper and tighten the banjo bolt with new copper washers on both sides of the line banjo hole. On the rear line, I usually use the stock steel banjo bolt just because it’s stronger than the brass one that comes with the line. That way you can torque the bolt to 20ft/lbs (the manual says 22ft/lbs which I haven’t been comfortable with). Now attach the two line holders on the swing arm. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image010.jpg Don’t put the line cover on until you are finished bleeding the line and making sure there are no leaks. Next attach the proportioning valve to the master cylinder by threading the spinning collar on the master cylinder to the front adapter with the knob turned down toward the ground. The adapters on the valve side with the copper washers are already tightened. The end that goes into the master cylinder is the adapter with the course 10mm X 1.25 pitch thread. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image012.jpg Just snug this spinning collar to the point that if feels firm. Now thread the end of the line to the output side adapter on the valve and snug it up. Now with a 16mm open end wrench, hold the valve and with a 14mm open end wrench tighten the collar on the master cylinder until it feels tight. Do the same thing to the spinning collar on the line end. The threads on the line collar are a finer thread so do not over tighten. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image014.jpg Now it’s time to bleed the line, but first open the knob on the valve all the way open by turning it counter clockwise (like a faucet). I usually use a MityVac at the caliper bleed valve to get the fluid started to the caliper. Then I use the conventional method of (1) closing the bleeder (2) pumping the pedal a few good times (3) hold the pedal down (4) release the bleeder to let fluid through and then (5) close it. Now go back to (1) and start over until all the air is out of the line and the pedal feels good and firm. Now check the spinning collars at the valve to see if any fluid is seeping at the connections. If so, snug them up just a bit more being careful not to strip a thread. Wipe the fluid that has seeped and then pump the pedal hard and let it sit for a few minutes to see if it is still seeping. Once you are assured there are no leaks, attach the line cover. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image016.jpg Now turn the knob clockwise until it stops. At this point the valve acts like a shutoff valve, so turn the knob back out two turns. You can see the color rings under the knob, which indicate how many turns you have made. If you see 2 colored rings, then the knob is two turns out. This is only a starting point because from here you need to take the bike for a ride on a good concrete surfaced street to test the braking. It’s best to use a street with not much traffic on it Get up to say 40mph or more and gently apply the brakes pressing down more and more until (1) the bike comes close to stopping or (2) the rear wheel locks up. If it locks up, release it quickly. The latter condition means that you need to close the valve more by turning it clockwise. Adjust the valve to the point that you feel comfortable with the amount of braking resulting from how far you have to push down on the pedal. When it is right, you should be able to come to a complete controlled stop at 30-40mph with just the rear pedal. Of course remember that it’s very important to use both brakes when stopping, so in addition to the rear brake, be sure to apply an ample amount of front brake to help slow the bike down the most. But I have found that just as you are coming to a complete stop, release the front and use only the rear brake to come to that complete stop. Sometimes when you use the front brake at a complete stop, it may off balance the bike as you are putting your foot down. The rear brake now becomes more settling and comfortable at stops. Once you are comfortable with the feel, it’s time to lock the knob down. I first did this with a piece of safety wire which worked well but required a small hole be drilled through the knob. But since I started working with this valve, I have found the product information on this valve from the manufacturer (Deltrol Fluid Products) where it described a set screw in the side of the knob that could be used to lock the knob in place. This set screw can be turned in with either a 1.5mm or 1/16” hex allen wrench and will keep the knob from backing off. However, I still have drilled a small hole in the knob and have included a piece of safety wire as a secondary safety measure to make sure this knob stays where you have set it. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image018.jpg If you have any questions concerning this installation, you can reach me by either e-mail or phone: Rick_Butler@verizon.net 972-442-9840 Home 214-926-3905 Cell
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