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bkuhr

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Everything posted by bkuhr

  1. bkuhr
    front middle of engine behind radiator:)
  2. bkuhr
    I'll second, or third the stator. My XJ750 had simular problem. Book called for .4ohms accross windings, and I had .2 ohms. Thought good enough, found out otherwise. Replaced stator fixed problem.
  3. bkuhr
    http://www.harborfreight.com/portable-wheel-balancer-39741.html
  4. bkuhr
    I remember asking same question-complete kit. Answer=NO. I got out parts diagram and ordered all gaskets and rubber orings, figured if not already damaged, would be damaged upon disassembly. Planned on any other parts found needing replacement would be ordered as needed. Forget excactly, think this alone was about $80 Soaked all parts in can of carb cleaner, gallon kind comes with little parts basket. Also wents thru 3 large cans of spray carb cleaner-making sure every jet and passage was clear-Wear eye protection-spray will come out in unexpected directions. Also used little brass wire brush (rifle cleaning type) to get off some stuck on gaskets renments.
  5. bkuhr
    Can take a bit (few tries) for any air trapped in lines to work out to the bleeders. Suggest keep trying:2cents:
  6. bkuhr
    Went ahead and pulled dash again, lubed tach gears and all OK now. PS, used electrical contact cleaner/lube,non-conductive very light oil does not cause shorts on electrical circuits. Have not got O-Scope out yet, may still go ahead any get readings just to see what is normal- if anyone interested? Thanks for replies Brian
  7. bkuhr
    Think I would try swapping ing coils before considering getting/repairing TCI. If problem moves with coils, likely TCI ok.
  8. bkuhr
    Got 83VR non running, lot of work later runs great but tach reads low, and slow to respond to throttle changes. Dash was FULL of ants, disassembled, and flushed ants out with water, then dried with aircompressor. Any way to verify tach signal at rear of dash correct? Volts?, Ohms? Think this signal is pulsing ground/vs 12v behind coil#2 @2xRPM?, May put o-scope on just to see what it reads. Haven't used my scope in long time-hope it still works. Suspect tach gears/springs may have light corrosion needs lube (pull dash again:(), but would like to verify everything else first.
  9. bkuhr
    This reed switch is just snapped into top/rear of head, Mine had popped out and I hot glued it back in. If you lost both speedo and cruise, I would suspect your problem in the mechanical cable or the worm gear in the front wheel hub. I have seen cable cores break, but when you press in and turn by hand you provide enough friction across the break to make you think it is ok.
  10. bkuhr
    First suggestion would be to clamp timing light around spark plug leads of effected cylinder, fire it up, and verify you are really loosing spark in RPM range, by timing light quit flashing. If in fact not loosing spark, likely fuel/vacum problem at RPM range. If really loosing spark-below. Dingy's wiring diagram states pick up coils should be 93.5-126.5 ohms. 1st would verify your meter = 0 ohms with leads shorted to each other. If your meter is sensitive enough, you will read .1-.2 ohms across the leads. Subtract this reading from any test results. Read all pick up coils from 6 pin connector removed from TCI. One side of meter always on Black wire, and other meter lead 1 at a time on pickup coil as follows. You are measuring thru another 6 pin connector down near middlegear cover Cyl#1=orange cyl#2=grey cyl#3=white/green cyl#4=white/red I think this sequence is correct, but could be wrong If you still have all pickups still in 500ohm range, I would suspect you have corroded wiring problems, possibly at middle gear connector. If just 1 pick up out of range (2 cylinder per pickup-I think 1&2=one and 3&4= the other), I would suspect defective pickup worth trying to replace). Only other thing in pickup circuit is battery 12volts on each coil connector. Make sure 12v not going open at RPM for some reason on effected coil/s. Other than this you just have coils and TCI. Could try swapping coils and see if problem moves with coil. Just had a thought. 2000 rpm would be in the range where pressure sensor is ordering TCI to advance spark, maybe pressure sensor is hanging in a dead spot, either defective or vacum leak, but would expect all cylinders to be affected by late spark. Just my thoughts:2cents:
  11. bkuhr
    Improper to read volts with meter in series, ie between bat neg and neg lead, although this is the proper setup for reading current(amps). Place fluke black lead on bat neg post, and fluke red lead on neg battery cable (disconnected from battery). Some meter also require red lest lead in different AMP port. Start with meter on highest amp setting (20A). Then work down your amp scales until you have a reading that does not exceed the scale you are on. Most meter have a fuse in the amp section and it is easy to blow if you exceed rating. If fuse blows, amp reading will be zero( same as if everything was good with no current draw-and you will not be able to tell the difference. To test short leads accross AA flashlight battery. If meter good should show 2-3 amps. If meter good, and zero amps or milliamps, then you do not have a current drain.-Likely internal short in battery-replace battery. If you have any kind of amp reading, then start pulling fuses until reading drops to zero to isolate draining circuit. Bst guess is you will see amps in the 40A main fuse. If so I would disconnect plug from voltage rectifier, as in my mind rectifier or alternator are most likely. There are many circuit accross 40a main fuse, and they will have to be tracked down seperately Come back with results:080402gudl_prv:
  12. bkuhr
    My first guess for intermittant as described on multiple systems, is charging system. Although I have had CMS problems on 83 VR repaired with resolder, Your problems sound very simular to problems I had on 82 XJ750. After replacing volt-reg,++, finally found problem to be shorted winding on stator. The XJ CMS would intermittanly start a reboot sequence, and kept I killing batteries, although showed 13-14v charging. Finally installed amp meter to ride with, and proved shorted winding was drawing more current than other windings were producing, with a net result of battery discharge. After replacing stator all problems fixed. PS. 83 VR known for CMS problems due to broke/cold solder joints on PCB. Usually with headlamp ckt. You may have multiple problems. Suggest start with stator winding Ohm check, and there IS a difference between .4ohms=good and .2ohms I had and thought good enough-not. PPS. Lot of info on this site for your bike, search under 'first generation' Every procedure I suggest listed in detail.
  13. bkuhr
    Based on what I read with instructions from Progressive Springs, I figured I needed to put in oil until there was about 5" of air gap. I ended up overfilling-hard to tell, then stuck mity-vac hose 5" into fork and sucked all out down to 5" level.
  14. bkuhr
    Attached pics of my fork air leak on 83 with no class. Bad fork seals, but air chambers were fine.
  15. bkuhr
    I would backstab pins of cmu for voltage in and out before anything else. Dingy has some good easy to read schematics http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/83%20Yamaha%20Venture%20TK%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20C.pdf 1st check for 12v into cmu on Green for low beam and Yellow/red for high beam. Then check for same 12v out of cmu Green/red for low beam and Yellow/green for high beam. If you have voltage in, but not out you have the broken solder joint problem internal the cmu. Likely the reason it was bypassed to start with.
  16. bkuhr
    Reminds me of trip I took on airforce c5a while in army. Rode up front, leaning on pilots backrest during aerial refuel with kc135. And it was my birthday-best ever.
  17. bkuhr
    I looked at 88 parts list in link Dingy provided, item numbers do not appear to match up with diagram, but all parts numbers look to be the same as what I used on my 83. I ordered from parts list on 85, to include bushings not listed on 83 list. My link of fork rebuild pics includes parts listed I ordered. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49226. If you can't read it let me know and I will got get my paper and type in here. I also got the progressive springs from skydoc17. I think you are safe to use the same parts I ordered, If anyone knows different, please chime in. PS, it took 1-1/2 week for parts from partshark.com. Skydoc was 2 days:)
  18. bkuhr
    pics of my fork rebuild on 83 in reverse order at photobucket, start from last http://s767.photobucket.com/albums/xx318/bkuhr/fork%20rebuild/ sure rides great now, thanks all and this forum for all the advise. heres new link as photobucket has problems http://img560.imageshack.us/g/71oil.jpg/
  19. bkuhr
    Just replaced mine today also, Thought same thing. First two pics, stock at 17-3/4", last pic progreessive at 20=3/4"
  20. bkuhr
    Just found this in tech libarary, suspension... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12536
  21. bkuhr
    Do you have documentation for new LED switch? Maybe you need to step down 12vdc to 1.5-2vdc with resister in line with ground. Just quessing here:2cents:
  22. bkuhr
    Try this vin# link http://www.motoverse.com/tools/vin/yamaha.asp
  23. bkuhr
    Is rear brake pedal return spring bringing pedal all the way back up against the stop, or is there slack in pedal. May need to disassemble pedal and correct spring placement.
  24. bkuhr
    Couple years ago my xj750 worn thru batteries. no volt gauge, but cms showed no problems. Every time I checked with dmm, showed 13-14 v charge. Finally permemently installed amp gauge, which showed discharge. After replacing regulator to no effect, tracked problem down to 1 shorted winding in generator armature. Test called for .4ohms, and 1 read .1 ohms and thought ok at the time. Many posts here of better way to check armature, and replace with better ones if needed
  25. bkuhr
    Curtis, Ordered progressive springs from SKYDOC17 on this sight for $68+shipping and rest from partshark.com per skydoc's recommendation. Included detailed part numbers of what I ordered. FYI, I ordered everything for 85 xv1200d, even though I have 83 xvz12 as all part #s same, but 85 part list included bushings Also Condor has brace, but not sure I need it yet. Looks like i'm in about $250 total. PRODUCT INFORMATION: Mfg Product Number: 1NL-23145-00-00 Description: OIL SEAL for 1985 YAMAHA XV 1200D Order Quantity: 2 Unit Price: $17.76 Total Cost: $35.52 Mfg Product Number: 3JJ-23125-00-00 Description: METAL,SLIDE 1 for 1985 YAMAHA XV 1200D Order Quantity: 2 Unit Price: $16.05 Total Cost: $32.10 Mfg Product Number: 26H-23144-00-00 Description: SEAL,DUST for 1985 YAMAHA XV 1200D Order Quantity: 2 Unit Price: $12.56 Total Cost: $25.12 Mfg Product Number: 26H-2319L-00-00 Description: WASHER for 1985 YAMAHA XV 1200D Order Quantity: 2 Unit Price: $4.15 Total Cost: $8.30 Mfg Product Number: 26H-2319M-00-00 Description: SPRING,VALVE for 1985 YAMAHA XV 1200D Order Quantity: 4 Unit Price: $3.99 Total Cost: $15.96 Mfg Product Number: 3JJ-23171-00-00 Description: PISTON,FRONT FORK for 1985 YAMAHA XV 1200D Order Quantity: 2 Unit Price: $14.60 Total Cost: $29.20 ORDER TOTALS: Item Total: $146.20 Tax: $0.00 Shipping: $14.50 Order Total: $160.70 Thank you for your purchase and please feel free to contact us with any questions you may have regarding your order. PartShark.com 386 State Road 37 North Martinsville, IN 46151 USA Toll free: (877)-999-5686 Email: Info@PartShark.com
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