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bkuhr

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  1. bkuhr
    dé·jà vu    /ˌdeɪhttp://sp.dictionary.com/dictstatic/dictionary/graphics/luna/thinsp.pngʒɑ ˈvu, ˈvyu; Fr. deɪhttp://sp.dictionary.com/dictstatic/dictionary/graphics/luna/thinsp.pngʒa ˈvü/ http://sp.dictionary.com/dictstatic/g/d/dictionary_questionbutton_default.gif Show Spelled[dey-zhah voo, vyoo; Fr. dey-zha vy] http://sp.dictionary.com/dictstatic/g/d/dictionary_questionbutton_default.gif Show IPA –noun 1. Psychology . the illusion of having previously experienced something actually being encountered for the first time. 2. disagreeable familiarity or sameness: The new television season had a sense of déjà vu about it—the same old plots and characters with new names
  2. bkuhr
    Brushes need to be shaped for 100% contact with armator. New brushes usually come square, and actually only have about 25% contact. Too many amps across restricted contacts causes arcing, and brushes and armature to burn. Place armature in drill, tape 1 layer only of sandpaper to armature-grit out, assemble brush plate over armature with sandpaper, then set brushes in plate with spings behind them. Then run drill to turn armature-sanding armature diameter into end of brushes. does not take much, don't over due it. Disassembly everything, take sandpaper off, and reassemble same setup in drill with brushes. Run drill some more to 'polish' brushes to armature. Disassembly everything again, and clean up all dust good. Put armature back in drill and sand contacts until shiny- again don't over due it. Make sure all contacts gaps are clear, or clear with file, if clearing caused ridges, sand again. Might now also consider doing Dingy's starter mod for greater ground capacity Now completely assemble starter, and run for about 2 minutes (I use jumper cables and auto battery) with no load. Now you can install starter into MC, Gage, etc... and not worry about it again. I do same procedure to new in box cheap power tools. Otherwise cheap tools burn out in no time.
  3. bkuhr
    Likley cold soldier joint or defective reed switch internal CMU sensing no current flow to head light and activating headlight out circuit including reserving lighting unit, turning on white light. You can find info on repair on other posts for CMU in first gen section.
  4. bkuhr
    I would suggest you contact your local Better Business Bureau, and see if a complaint would help you get your warranty honored. After you get the replacement $300 phone:fingers crossed:, you can still take it with you to another provider (most of the time depending on providers network type) and not have to still buy another phone. Maybe buy cheap trac-phone to make due until issues resolved.
  5. bkuhr
    I'll bet your provider was AT&T. How would I guess? If you look at my profile I work for them, except on the wireline side. I would NOT recommend them, even if they write my paycheck. This probably didn't help much, sorry:(
  6. bkuhr
    That is the correct red/white wire you have circled. attached resistor between this wire and battery +, preferably switched 12v, so you do not have current draw when mc not in use. With key on CMS should go thru bootup, then battery warning light should go out. If not....the red/white wire is a direct connection to the plug on the back of the CMS. Could have a broken wire or, yes, cold/broke soldier joint internal the CMS. When you get the dash off and can get to the rear of this CMS, run a long jumper wire from Bat+, to resistor, to backstab the rear for the cms connector red/white wire pin, and try again. If jumper wire works, your red/white wire is broke-somewhere. If still problem, then problem internal CMS, and your almost there....
  7. bkuhr
    How do you test for leaking choke enrichers? I have two cylinders very rich and this sounds like a possibility?
  8. bkuhr
    Thru me for a loop, I would have expected for someone to say maybe 2&3 were not firing, that was my next plan to start checking.
  9. bkuhr
    83 venture, long time in rebuild, 84 miles on new plugs, 29mpg , feels like slight miss at idle, runs fine otherwise. Run 1/2 can seafoam/full tank in this 84 miles. Refilled 2.9 gallons and add second 1/2 seafoam, but have not run anymore yet pics of plugs cyl #1 nice tan, came out slightly wet cyl #2 hardly any coloring cyl #3 hardly any coloring, came out very wet cyl #4 vary carboned My read of plugs, please correct me if you believe otherwise #1 about ok #2 super rich, likely not firing much-likely flooded #4 too rich Due to my concern of flooding, I rechecked float levels-mark with blue tape, bike level on lift. All seem ok to me Due to #4 to rich pulled diaphram, pic of carbon on slider Closed #4 idle screw 1/4 turn, all were set at 2 turns out. At a loss what to check next, reading on needle shim mod, but if I am too rich, seems pulling slider needle out more would be going in wrong direction-is this correct? Have not rechecked other diaphrams, but there were no holes or other problems during assembly. It is possible during assembly, diaphrams were not seated in grove correctly. would leaking diaphram cause my symptoms?
  10. bkuhr
    I just re-read this post, and realized this started with baldjosh with #2 miss. Then breezycricket started in wanting to replace pickups. Not sure what model breezycricket has, but schmetic for #2 coil and tach I posted was for my 83. I am assuming breezycricket is having simular problem that baldjosh had, but IMO most likely cause of dead cylinders is fuel/vacum-carb problems vs electrical problems. Could even be low vacum due to needing valve shim needing done. Maybe we need to start over with new thread with actual problems:confused07: I disagree with cutting wires just to make testing easier. Again, need your model type and someone can chime in how to pull dash if you still want to isolate tach grey wire. Volt meter on my 83 does have 3 posts, but just uses 2 wires. Another problem to figure out why it does not work. What is history of bike, has PO butcherd wiring? Just my
  11. bkuhr
    I was refering to the gy wire from the TCI to the #2 coil input and tach input, and I was incorrect, there is not another system involved with #2 coil input circuit. I was thinking, as Dingy did, other systems involved in TCI running, including fuel pump. I did not have access to schmetic earlier at work. My point was, if having problem with #2 coil, a well as could be caused from TCI or pickup, could also be caused by wiring to tach, or problem within tach. An intermittant short to either ground or power could cause #2 to misfire-non fire, but would also likely show funky readings on the tach itself. Swapping TCI would likely be definitive test, but expensive. May consider disconnect gy wire on back of tach temporarly and tape up to avoid end shorting out against anything. Dont loose very tiny nuts. If you disconnect tach and it clears your #2 trouble, the electronics internal the tach are causing problems, and likely will not be easily repairable-meaning needing a new tach-probably cheaper than TCI
  12. bkuhr
    pick up coils control two igintion coils each. If just one igintion coil not firing correctly, but others ok I would suspect pickup coils ok. #2 ing coil circuit also controls the feed for the tach-o-meter, and I think something else, but can't remember what right now, maybe something is wrong here killing (shorting or grounding) the feed for the #2 ing coil.
  13. bkuhr
    OH well, I tried:crying:
  14. bkuhr
    Not 100% about RSV but I believe headlight for sure, and probably dash lights should go out with starter switch is pressed-by design. If they are not, and the fact your start relay is cycling(buzzing), Then I would very highly suspect your starter button is having flakey contacts. Don't fret-is can be cleaned as DINGY suggested above.
  15. bkuhr
    Rode the venture to work today for first trip. Awsome!! Only about 30 miles on it, have oil leak to track down when I have time, Looks like left hand alternator cover-maybe from center badge-crank bolt access. Also had problem with false tank cover lifting in front-rear secured with proper screw, may try velcro to help hold it down. Slight backfire on decel. Mirrors shake slightly at idle, is this normal? or do I have a slight miss? Not enough miles to check plugs yet. Smooth at RPM and sure wants to gooooo. One thing I haven't seen discussed on forum, and it felt really wierd to me at first-most have probably forgotten about it, but after riding 750 and 350 for years, this is my first ride on a bike with farings, or windshield for that matter. Bothered me that I can not see my front wheel. Sort of got over it after about 10 minutes. Also felt pulling to the rear on my helmet. I'm sure windshield creating vacum behind me and pulling. Went away when I stuck head above windshield. Not to hard to get used to. Topic for discussion for new dressed riders?
  16. bkuhr
    Thanks Mike, PM sent
  17. bkuhr
    This works well, but I had 1 resiovor I had to slot screw with dremmel tool, then tap out with punch at edge of new slot. Need to use worn dremmel bit with very small diameter to avoid also cutting slot into lid.
  18. bkuhr
    Not sure what decal you mean, pin stripe?, Yes I painted pin stripe, gold with metal flake, tan with pearl, and eagle with 4 colors and 4 colored pearls. Final 3 layers of clear with color sanding in between. Removed badges and painted and reinstalled with auto molding adhesive. All this after bunch of plastic repair mostly melting (from inside) with solding gun, adding plastic as needed, and large damage with fiberglass inside for reinforcement, then bondo and sanding to outside scratches-dings, then overall outside sanding to roughen up for painting. Paints not perfect, but neither am I a painter, I'm very safisified. Took about 2 months to get plastic this far, still have bags to go. All this after about 6 months and $1000 parts to repair bike and get running. Glad I only give $300 to start with. Can read some of my old posts, with all the troubles I had, But this FORUM is great. Thank you for comments, and thank you the many members who have helped me with all my problems.
  19. bkuhr
    Been working on this since Oct 09, Finally ready to try out on road-maybe tomorrow. Didn't take before pic, but was busted up plastic all black like bags. Still need to paint bags to match rest of plastic. I can see small problems with my paint job, but for most part I think it looks great. Anyone have a right hand dash vent that I am missing?
  20. bkuhr
    What does inside of rotor look like, if worn on 'inside' of swept area, would suspect somehow that the caliper is not square with the rotor.- meaning caliper bracket bent. Just a suggestion:2cents:
  21. bkuhr
    http://www.fieldandstream.com/photos/gallery/guns/rifles/ammunition/2009/11/expert-gunsmith-jc-blauvelt-over-pressure-rounds-and-e&rct=j&sa=U&ei=g7IvTMOZCcP68AbeluDJCw&ved=0CCIQFjAD&q=exploding+hand+guns+pics&usg=AFQjCNGYfNMO7S1lkbBYnMt6wpyaQhOT0A Vary same pics Field and Stream Nov 4, 2009. Not Chinese ammo, improper hot reloads. Its always amazing how 'truths get stretched'. Still an eyeopener whatever the reasons. I reload my own 9mm and 30-30. My 'experimenting' is always within limits of the 'book'. Leave the untested to the experts:doh:
  22. bkuhr
    Sounds like diaphrams are not keeping up with throttle plates as you open throttle. Read posts on inspecting diaphrams and temp repair with liquid rubber if you find holes, and replace with new when you can. Could also be vacum leak in numerious places, and 83 venture YICS is known to leak. spray starting fluid(lightly) in area of carb boots, YICS chamber, YICS hoses and see if engine speed increases. If so you found a vacum leak. YICS can be completey removed from MC, but need hefty vacum plugs to replace the YICS hoses at the heads:080402gudl_prv:
  23. bkuhr
    The battery light is really a low battery fluid light. If running standard acid cell battery, 1. Need to keep sensor operational as fluid indicator(do not do resistor mod) 2. If warning light comes on check battery fluid level and refill ONLY with distilled water 3. If light comes on and fliud level is correct, likely end of sensor probe in middle cell of battery has deterioted and needs replaced Only do resistor mod if replaced battery to a gell cell type of battery and can not install fluid probe. The resistor mod will then bypass the warning circuit, keeping the warning light off FYI. Probe/warning circuit is designed to be installed in middle cell of 6 cell 12 volt lead acid liquid cell battery. Apx 2 volts/cell and probe installed in 4th cell from neg or 3rd cell from pos=8 volts to ground as detected for warning circuit, Due to resistor values some have used in mod, appears 4-8 volts will work to disable the warning circuit, not sure 1.5 volt battery will work, but it may. Warning circuit really only cares, with in limits, for some volts, or zero volts(dry probe above battery fluid therby low fluid) Battery warning circuit does not give any indication to electrical/charging health of MC, low battery fluid level only. Others state they have burned up their CMS computer displays by hooking probe wire directly to battery pos with out resistor=12v on sensor circuit . Would strongly recommend against this. If you do use a 1.5v flashlight battery, ensure with out doubt that 1.5v battery neg is attached to frame/mc battrey neg. and pos attached to warning wire. To reverse this could put -neg 1.5 below or less than ground, and could have in effect MC charging 14-15 volts to ground(frame) +plus -1.5 volts below ground(frame)=16.5 volts potentional internal CMS. This voltage would be getting a little high, and unhealthy for the CMS:2cents:
  24. bkuhr
    Don't charge MC batteries at too high an amp rate, will boil electrolite out and sulfate the plates ruining the battery. Also not healthy for gel cell batteries. It is possible to add distilled water to boiled battery and it may seem fine, but the damage is done and will not last long. Also as a reminder, never add tap water to batteries. Used only distilled water. Minerals in tap water will build shorts accross the plates I have little "computerized" charger I use for MC battery initial charge. It has settings for 2,4,and 6 amps. I charge at 2 amps until it detects full charge and shuts off, about 8 hours.
  25. bkuhr
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