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The Cheese

Expired Membership
  • Posts

    18
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10 Good

About The Cheese

  • Birthday 04/01/1980

Personal Information

  • Name
    Michael

location

  • Location
    Alto GA, United States

Converted

  • City
    Alto GA

Converted

  • Home Country
    United States

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  • Interests
    Motorcycles, video games, being lazy.
  • Bike Year and Model
    83 Yamaha VR
  1. Bike has been sold. Maybe the new guy can get it going. Shalom
  2. I played around with it yesterday. I have no spark at all to #1. I have spark to #2 until I give it gas. It then cuts out at 2.5k. The tach cuts out at the same time. I found some wires chewed for the radio. So I took the fairing apart hopeful to find some important ignition wires cut. So far, I find none. So I switched the coils around to see if the problem switched. No. It remained the same. I have put it up for sale. If I can figure out whats wrong before it sells, I would like to keep it. I really do want to ride this bike. Thanks Michael
  3. I wanted to update this thread. I still have the bike. It still is in the same condition. I hav'nt worked on it since my last post. I have started it every now and again. I have also found out it really is a 1984, title is wrong. Sorry. I need to get this bike going or sell it. Either way I'm getting off my butt now that it is warming up here. Michael
  4. Thank you all for the suggestions. I will start with the pick up coil plugs, clean up the right switch housing, then dig the TCI out. That 32* is not too inviting. But, I gotta get it ready by spring. P.S. Pressure washing is not on the not to do list! Michael
  5. I did give it a good hosing at the car wash. But that was a month ago. It has been raining alot here as well. Its been dry for a couple of days now. I am so close to bringing it in the house! The tach will read when its idling. As long as engine speed does not change to quickly, it will keep it. Up to a certain point. When I slowly feed it some throttle, it will go slowly down. I will have to take a vid to describe it well. I think you are right about getting tach signal from number two. The right side jugs fire well. I mean the exhaust is really hot. But the left side not so much. Maybe It runs on three when idling, then when I try to rev it, num 2 cuts out. That would explain both. Now to find the y? Michael
  6. Hello All. Thanks for taking a look. Little history first, 83 VR. Less thank 6k miles. New to me. Has spent the better part of its life sitting in a yard. So far, I have: Pressure washed Full carb overhaul Bleed the clutch Re soldered the CLASS thingy Changed spark plugs Checked gas tank for rust Some other odds and ends not related After getting my carbs finally done. Put em back on and it ran. Much improved than before. I have not synced yet. The tach is non responsive. I rev it up. It goes down. Let off it goes back up. Thought it was strange. Bike will not rev up past *k RPM. I do know that #1 is getting a spark when I push the starter button. Then as soon as it starts, the spark goes away. Of coarse I am letting off the button when it does start. However, if I tap the button while it is running I can see it get a spark. I know I should not do that. But it was a thought. If I hit the kill switch, I can see a weak spark. If I turn the IGN. switch off, I swear I see a weak spark again. I have checked the plug cap. It was clean. The place it mates with the wire was slightly corroded and loose. I have since cut off till I got good wire and reinstalled with no effect. As I type this its 26*. Its a bit cold to go dealing with it much. I have not checked out anything else. I plan to take the right hand controls apart and clean it. I also plan to check out the fuse holder on the bat. What else should I look at? And how should I do it? I was under the impression that coils either work, or dont. Is it safe to assume that? If she needs a new TCI, I will have to move on. I do not want to give up that easy, but buying a used on on eBay looks out of the picture. Michael
  7. Condor, These carbs have spent 48 hrs in Yam. carb dip. After that were ran in an ultrasonic. A very big industrial one. All brass bits look brand new. I have no idea why the aluminum looks bad still. It is a lot cleaner than it was before. Anything rubber or gasket was replaced. bkuhr, Either you have super powers, or one hell of a lucky guesser. I was a bit hasty in joining the two banks together. As the below pics tell. http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt264/The--Cheese/th_2010-11-28180119.jpghttp://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt264/The--Cheese/th_2010-11-28180107.jpg All butterfly's were bench synced. The fuel ench. valves are now acting as one. No play at all. Now I gotta do it all over again. Bummer. But very glad it was caught now. Michael
  8. I just bent them to correct the imbalance. All valves are closing fully. It seems one side does not open fully. I am calling it good enough. Time to put these things on, and get on with it. Enough stalling. Michael
  9. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uxg-nWmSQW0]YouTube - video 2010 11 28 12 01 18[/ame]
  10. Good idea. Vid is uploading to youtube. Here are some pics for now. http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt264/The--Cheese/th_2010-11-28121451.jpghttp://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt264/The--Cheese/th_2010-11-28121438.jpghttp://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt264/The--Cheese/th_2010-11-28121402.jpghttp://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt264/The--Cheese/th_2010-11-28121335.jpghttp://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt264/The--Cheese/th_2010-11-28121311.jpg If you want another shot of anything, let me know. Michael
  11. Plastic bushings are accounted for. I am really beginning to think that while they were apart, the rod got bent. It just makes no sense to me to have one side come on late. The right side does not even pull all the way out. That has to be wrong. Michael
  12. I'm sorry to say its not that simple. Each choke, or Fuel Ench. Valve does have a set screw. However it sets into a dimple on the shaft. Adjustment that way is simply not possible. Thanks for trying to help. Michael
  13. Greetings from N. GA. I have my carbs put back together after an extensive cleaning and part replacement. It went well for the most part. No left over parts and what not. I have run into a small snag now. They are completely assembled. The choke linkage doesn't seem to be synced with both sides. If I turn the choke like the cable would, the left (cable attachment side) side will actuate the left side chokes first. Then the right side follows. Its about an eight inch off. The only way I see to adjust this would be to bend the choke linkage rod. Which I suppose would be no problem. However, I would like to confirm or deny if I should first. Is it normal for it to activate side before the other? If someone would please take a peek at theirs, I would be most grateful. BTW, sorry to be so long winded with just a small question. Michael
  14. Thanks. I have went and updated my profile some. Planned to join today as well. But time has eluded me. I would like to start a thread for my progress. That way its easy for me to keep up with it. Which would be the proper forum? A little off topic I know, but didnt see the need in starting another thread just to ask a question about starting another thread. Follow that? Michael
  15. It felt like it would stay. Was a little dificult to put back in. This is my first time running into plastic slides. My Hondas had metal. I didnt steal it, but came close. Sometimes I m in the right place at the right time. Michael
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