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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. skydoc_17
    Hey Dave, Sounds like the starter solenoid has bit the dust! I have a good used one, and can order you a new one if that would help. Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    Hey Brian, On the hitch installs I have done, I have just drilled the metric nut out and used a 5/16-18 Bolt. Those little screws that hold the bottom of the plastic side bag are not strong enough to attach the frame rails of the hitch to the side bag crash bars. Those "ears" that are welded to the hitch frame and attach to the side bag crash bars are there to control the lateral movement of the hitch frame itself. Remove the metal bushing that is located in the floor of the side bag that passes thru the rubber grommets, purchase a set of bolts and matching washers, drill a clearance hole for the bolt thru the tab on the crash bar, (which will remove the nut) and install the bolt with a flat washer thru the grommet, thru the tab from the hitch, thru the tab on the crash bar, and finish up with a flat washer, a lock washer, and the nut. Earl
  3. skydoc_17
    Hey Frank, If you install a used, stock Clutch Diaphragm Spring from a bike that had a slipping clutch, then you will have a slipping clutch in that bike as well! If the amount of clutch lever pull pressure is the problem, then get a new stock clutch diaphragm spring from Yamaha, and you will be good for a while. (If you secretly have another kind of project in mind, contact me and I will hook you up! Unless you really are going to put a used, stock clutch diaphragm spring in your friend's clutch pac:doh:) Earl
  4. skydoc_17
    The difference between a 1.25 thread pitch and a 1.50 thread pitch is .0099" (That's 9.9 thousandths of an inch!) Or basically, twice the thickness of a human hair! If you would have run a 1.50 pitch tap thru that caliper hole, you would have rendered that caliper useless, so it was very smart to take another run at getting the right bolts. Congrats on getting you bike up and running again. Earl
  5. skydoc_17
    Hey Jay, Here is the link to the Progressive Fork Springs I offer in the Classifieds. This set of springs is an excellent upgrade for your MKII VR. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3768&title=first-gen1983-1993-progressive-fork-springs-21&cat=22 Another excellent upgrade is the Anti-Dive Block Off Plates which allow you to remove the "Battery Hogging" Electric Anti-Dives that are on the Front Forks of your VR. Here is the Link: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3776&title=first-genmkii-vr-s-santi-dive-block-off-plates-21&cat=22 Major Congrats on getting your fork seals installed, I have seen people scrap a perfectly good VR because of leaky fork seals. I have also seen a dealer charge major money for labor on a fork seal replacement. My Hat's Off to ya' for a job well done! Earl
  6. skydoc_17
    Hey Shawn, First off, welcome to the VR.ORG Forum! With a "new to you" First Gen., this might be the best $12.00 you spend on your bike! Now, about those Idle Mixture Screws. Below each of the four Carb. Diaphragm Caps, there may or may not be a brass plug that covers the Idle Mixture Screws. If there is a brass plug, drill them out with a 3/16" drill to expose the screw head. I use PB Blaster on the screws BEFORE I try to move them. Once that is done, LIGHTLY bottom out each screw, (if you get "Heavy Handed" here, you will destroy the Carb. Body, making that Carb. useless) and then turn them out 21/2 turns. This should get the bike running. I would then use a clamp on digital tach. (or an Exhaust Gas Analyzer) to fine tune the Mixture Screws. As far as the Carb. Sync. Screws go, if you didn't move them when you removed the Carb. Rack, then start there. You will need to connect a Manometer to the four Vacuum Ports on the Carb. Intakes, then adjust the screws to "Balance" the vacuum between the four Carbs. If you did move them, turn each screw in three turns, and try to start the bike. There will be two Sync. Screws on the right side of the bike, one for front cylinder to rear cylinder balance, and the other for right side to left side balance. On the left side of the bike, there will be one Sync. screw for front cylinder to rear cylinder balance. Make small adjustments, blip the throttle after each adjustment. It is not as important what the reading on the Manometer is for each cylinder as it is for all four cylinders to read the same. Stick around, you may actually enjoy yourself! Earl
  7. skydoc_17
    I ALWAYS use an Impact Driver when trying to remove metal Allen Heads or bolts from Aluminum Threads. When you install a Steel or Stainless Steel Fastener in an Aluminum thread you get electrolysis, an electromagnetic field surrounds the two metal parts and the softer material corrodes itself to the harder material. You can see an example of this action on many places thru out your motorcycle. The "White Dust" you see collecting on the Allen Head Cap Screws on the engine cases and any where else you have a metal fastener in a Aluminum thread. The white dust is actually "Aluminum Rust" or the oxidation of the Aluminum as it decomposes. I find a single wrap of Teflon plumber's ribbon tape helps with this issue. Especially if you want to remove the bolts in the future, like for caliper removal. Earl
  8. skydoc_17
    Hey All, As was mentioned, I am working a 12 hour a day, 7 day a week, "Death March" shift at my new (Since April of 2011) Job. I am working for a Petro Company involved in the manufacture of pumping and measuring equipment for the Petro Industry. We are currently supplying contractors with equipment for the Marcellus "Fracking" project currently going on in PA. Not to mention that my property has been under water for the last month as a result of the hurricanes and constant rain that has fallen in this area. After my 12+ hour shift, I have been sand bagging the "Little Creek" that has turned into the mighty Mississippi River since the storms started. Since I am basically "living at work", and can't take cell phone calls, and have received so many, my phone is now dumping many missed calls. I promise you that I am not ignoring anyone! There just doesn't seem to be enough hours in the day to get everything done. I haven't even had time to re list the ads in the Classifieds that were lost last month. I have clutch kits in stock, S.S. De Link Line Sets, Fuse Box Kits, Progressive Fork Springs, and MKI and MKII Block Off Plates as well. I can still order parts directly from Yamaha, sharing my Jobber discount with the VR.ORG Members, I just have a VERY SMALL amount of time to do these things because I am up at 2:30 AM and get home around 5:00PM. You are welcome to PM, email or call between 5 and 10 PM, and I will do my very best to answer all of your questions. As will anyone who has spoken to me will attest to, If you can get a hold of me, I will do all in my power to help you with what ever project you are working on. Please be patient with me, and I will do my best to help you. Thanks for thinking of me, it is greatly appreciated. Earl
  9. skydoc_17
    Hey Jeremy, When the MKII Rear Master Cylinder fails, it doesn't leak. Fluid that should push thru the brake lines to the rear caliper, and the left front caliper passes by the Master Cylinder piston, (worn Seal) spirals down the plunger stem, and returns to the fill line to the reservoir. (designed that way) I have the Genuine Yamaha rebuild kit for the Master. A few of the items that cause the Master Cylinder to fail are: AGE, HEAT from the engine, brake fluid that has not been changed, and one or more calipers that are dragging, putting excessive pressure on the M/C plunger seal. A rebuild of the M/C is where I would start, but be prepared to address your 24 year old calipers as well. This could be one of those "Classic Snow Ball effect" type of repairs, where you will address one issue, and the next link in the chain will cause a problem next. If I can help, please feel free to PM me. Earl
  10. skydoc_17
    Thanks Trader, for the kind words and the link! Here are a few pics of the actual kit and install pics. Questions, PM me. Earl
  11. skydoc_17
    Great Job Gary! It is a pleasure to see a vendor stand behind the products he sells. I know that because of recent medical conditions, you are not in the best of shape, so for you to "suck it up" and get out there and find the problem with a fellow VR.ORG member's bike was a HUGE effort. I commend you for this effort, especially when your own motorcycle is in need of completion. GOOD JOB, Earl
  12. skydoc_17
    Hey Jay, Rick is correct, there is no "reach around" for replacing leaking fork seals, except for replacing them! With that being said, here is a trick I use on bikes that are out on the road, on long trips where replacing the fork seals just can't be done until you return home. With your bike on the center stand, and a small jack under the oil pan, snugged up. (this is important!) Remove the Cruise Control cover, and handle bars, (just lay them up by the dash, with all cables connected) remove the two plastic vents on either side of the forks, (the right side vent that has the emergency flasher switch, just leave everything connected and drape this assembly on the Class Controller) Remove the two big plugs at the top of the fork tubes with an Allen wrench. You will need to lower the jack under the oil pan, and remove the fork springs and spacers, then jack the bike back up until the forks are extended fully. NOW ADD 2 ozs. of LUCAS POWER STEERING STOP LEAK to each fork tube, then fill the fork tubes with 15WT. fork oil to the level of 6.0 inches from the top of the fork oil to the top of the fork tubes. Reinstall the springs and spacers, reinstall the plugs in the top of the fork tubes, and then the vents and cruise control panel. This fix will be around $20.00, and should buy you some time. Here is my disclaimer, **THIS IS NOT A PERMANENT FIX** but should get you thru the rest of THIS riding season only. Do not add any air to the front forks as this will only force more fork oil by the seals. If you have trouble following this procedure, feel free to PM me. Earl
  13. skydoc_17
    Hey Ryan, I have been following this thread closely, for obvious reasons! You have done an excellent job with this repair. I have seen damage like this result in the parting of a bike more than once, and for the money you spent to affect this repair, you would have been hard pressed to find another Venture in as nice a shape as yours! There are few things in life that give you as good of a feeling as when you repair your bike yourself, and then enjoy the fruits of that labor by taking your newly repaired bike for a nice long ride! Ride safely my friend, and if you ever need any other parts for your Venture, please feel free to call on me. Your father must be very proud of you Ryan, I know I am! Ya' Done Good! Earl
  14. skydoc_17
    Hey Lee, I offer a Caliper Rebuilding Service here at the shop. The Calipers are disassembled, ultrasonically cleaned, the caliper bodies are polished and repainted, the pistons are polished, all new Genuine Yamaha Seal Kits are installed, pins and retainers are cleaned, and clips are replaced. I can load these rebuilt calipers with EBC HH Sintered Pads If you like. I have attached a few pics. Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    Hey Shawn, I have a good CMS From an 87'VR. If you are interested, let me know. Earl
  16. skydoc_17
    Hey Mark, I live near Altoona, Pa. In Duncansville. You would come down Rt. 219 to Rt. 22 to I 99 go south 1 exit to the Roaring Springs exit, turn left at the light at the bottom of the exit, and I am a half mile on the right. My brother and I will be working in the shop ALL day tomorrow, if you are up for a ride, you are welcome to stop by for a Carb. Sync. My cell number is 814-937-8143. Most weekends I am in the shop, if tomorrow doesn't work for you. Earl
  17. skydoc_17
    Hey Kevin, The FJR that caliper was from does not have linked brakes. As far as my 87'VR goes, I have replaced the side bags with used ones, I have a used tail light installed, used trunk rack, but am having trouble finding a usable trunk in the Elegant/Birch Brown for the 87' model. I did ride the bike to the WNY meet and eat a few weeks ago, and was glad to discover there appears to be no frame damage. I do have some noise in the Final Drive, but have another to replace it with. I dearly miss the extra storage space the trunk provided. I am not bidding on that trunk rack on Ebay, I am not quite there yet. The removal of that proportioning valve will help with the bleeding of the rear brake. Earl
  18. skydoc_17
    Hey Kevin, The progressive engagement technology of the FJR caliper you purchased removes the need for the proportioning valve. The bike that caliper came from does not have a proportioning valve, and that is why the caliper functioned as well as it did for you after you gutted the valve. I offer progressive engagement calipers for the front as well. This mod would require the delink of the front and rear calipers. I realize you are not too keen on that, but thought I would mention it. I am glad to hear that you have solved that issue with the rear brake, once and for all. Good Job, Earl
  19. skydoc_17
    This explanation was passed on to me by a Yamaha regional rep as to why the clutches are weak on the Second Gen. RSV's and RSTD's. (Also the MKII VR's that didn't have the 5 year warranty) It goes like this.... Clutches and brake parts are considered "wear parts" under the 5 year Yamaha warranty. (Which means that they ARE NOT covered) The Yamaha V4 being what it is, very dependable, doesn't leave a lot of Dealer Maintenance work to be done on these bikes. Yamaha is Fully aware of the clutch spring problem, and has been since the introduction of the MKII First Gen. Venture Royale back in 1986. Part of the issue is Yamaha didn't want the clutch to be "Too Grabby" from a standing start which would scare a lot of first time riders moving up to a bike this big. BUT the REAL reason is that a LOT of owners take their bikes back to the dealer when the clutch starts to slip, and this generates a TON of money for the dealers once they point out that the warranty doesn't cover the clutch spring, or the damage to the clutch friction discs and steel clutch plates once the spring starts to fail and allows the clutch to slip. When I added the FJR1300 Final Drive, VMAX Heads, Cams and Carbs. to my 87'VR, within a week, my clutch was slipping. During this time, the PCW Spring was not available. (Nor was my kit for that matter) While working on the VMAX's at the shop, when we did the 1500cc "Big Bore" Conversion, we automatically added a second stock spring to the first. And the clutches did not slip. I solved my problem by doing the "Double D" mod on my 87'VR, and ran that mod for a few years until the PCW Spring came out. (I wanted to ad that the pull on 2 stock Clutch Diaphragm Springs will allow you to "Crack Walnuts" with your left hand after about 6 weeks of everyday riding!) I now have the kit I sell in my 87'VR and to date, it has functioned flawlessly. I can absolutely assure you that I run my 87'VR WAY harder than 95% of the riders on this site. My bike sees a 10,000 red line EVERY day I ride, I pull wheelies, I do burn outs, I speed shift, and I pull a trailer loaded with tools and camping gear regularly with no ill affects to the clutch system. If you feel your clutch slip a single time, Don't Wait! Install a better Clutch Diaphragm Spring, (Or the Barnett Kit) to save the expense of the clutch friction discs, and steel clutch plates. AND if you think your local Yamaha dealer mechanics are the only people in the entire world that can install a clutch in your bike, then you are NOT giving yourself enough credit. I personally think that it is more time consuming to replace the brake pads on three calipers than it is to install the clutch kit I offer. I stand behind EVERY item I offer with Tech. Support by PM, Email, and REAL TIME cell phone communication. OR you can stop by the shop, and I will be happy to install one of the many kits I offer. NO MATTER where you buy your Clutch Diaphragm Spring Kit from, if your clutch starts to slip, BUY the kit. You'll be glad you did. Earl
  20. skydoc_17
    I have a lower profile tire mounted on a front rim for my First Gen. when I go VROD hunting, or to the drag strip. The biggest problem is the speedo is mounted on the front axle, and the 100/80/18 tire throws the speedo WAY off. The other thing is when you bank right or left to go into a turn, you better have a spare pair of underpants, because my 87'VR will lean so quickly that you'll be screaming like a school girl! For straight line, drag race type riding, it helps keep the front end down, and the feel of the road is very positive. BUT it does make the steering a bit "twitchy". (to say the least) Other things to consider would be shorter front bearing life, and I spun the speedo needle off of my gage cluster, and smoked a speedo cable. For touring type riding, this mod would be very hard on the front end of the bike and hard on the rider as well. (with the front end lowered, you are "posting up" on your arms constantly) I'm not sayin' it can't be done, just sayin' it ain't gonna be FUN. Earl
  21. skydoc_17
    I have installed two of Mark's pipes on First Gens. in the last 6 months. Mark works a "day job" but still does the pipes on the side. He makes an excellent product, it's cheaper that the Yamaha exhaust collector, BUT the install is not for the "faint of heart". You will need to "Jiggle that sucker around a bit to get everything to line up properly". If you have install questions, please feel free to contact me. I have attached a pic. Earl
  22. skydoc_17
    Hey Steve, For some reason, that right vent must have an "ejection seat" attached to it because I have seen 50 of those puppies fly off of First Gens. over the years. I will check my parts bikes to see if I have a right one left. If you do find another one, put a small dab of super glue on the tabs, or you will be posting this again in a few months. Earl
  23. skydoc_17
    Hey Jeff, Now I understand why you got the Wing.... To carry your Frigin' SACK! You Da' MAN! Earl
  24. skydoc_17
    Hey Ian, Welcome to the VR.ORG Forum! I have attached a pic of the other area that has coolant and radiator water passing thru the same area. We here on the site call this area the "Twinkie" because of it's shape. This area is exposed to a lot of heat normally, and when a motor is overheated can cause problems if the gaskets and O'Rings are not replaced. Since you have the motor removed, this is a perfect time to address this issue. I have a yellow arrow pointing to the Twinkie area, and this pic is from the parts manual. You will find a listing of parts for this area under "Radiator, Hose" when searching for parts. If you need help with part numbers, please feel free to contact me. This is a very ambitious project, but I am glad to see that you are willing to keep one of these fine bikes on the road. You will not be sorry. Earl
  25. skydoc_17
    Hey Don, Both Jean and I send prayers for you and Eileen during this trying time. My dad often said, "LIFE" is a 4 letter word like "Work", and "Love", not a 3 letter word like "Fun", and "Sex". As you care for the people in your life that you love, and respect, we will care for you and Eileen, because we too love and respect you as well. We will be here when you have the time. And we thank you for allowing us to help you carry this burden during this difficult time. This truly is what friends and family do for each other. Earl and Jean
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