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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. Squeeze
    Since the Lubrication System is not high Pressure System, but a high Volume System, a Oil Pressure Gauge isn't that important. The Light is a Oil-Level Indicator not a Pressure Warning Light.
  2. Squeeze
    I never heard a final Drive whine. Well, at least for a longer Time that is. They work or there's a loud cracking sound and they won't work afterwards. I seriously doubt that the Pumpkin is the Culprit. The straight cutted Gears of the primary Reduction(Crankshaft/Clutch Basket) whine sometimes on Decelaration. Other than this, there might be a Lubrication Problem on the six Finger on of the Hub Unit in the rear Wheel or on the Spline of the Driveshaft where it connects to the U-Joint.
  3. Squeeze
    I delinked the Brakes of my '93 and mounted R6/R1 Calipers. The stock 14 mm Mastercylinder feeds both front Calipers just fine. I used SS Brake Lines with a T from a Vmax. I also mounted a R1 Caliper on the rear, and this big M/C on the rear leaves Room for Improvement, just like Jimbob mentioned. I dismounted the the Proportioning Valve without any major Upgrade. Changing the Port involved will not make any Difference. I will mount a Vmax M/C the next Winter.
  4. Squeeze
    I think you should undo the Star Washer(the Assembly where the Pins are) or the Rachet Mechanism behind the Clutch Basket. This would give you the Opportunity to check if either the Shift Shaft, it's Linkage or if the Culprit is the Shift Drum/Shift Fork Connection. After you removed one of the connecting Parts, you can move the Shift Lever or the Shift Shaft with a Vise Grip and feel if it's moving. I can imagine the Shift Drum is stuck between Gears due to some Force applied during the Dismount of the Slave Cylinder, but to be honest, i have no 100 Percent Solution to cure that. Probably a second Pair of Hands could turn the Crank over at the Flywheel while you are working the Star Washer to get the Shift Forks moved and the Tranny into a Gear. I would not use the Shift Linkage via the Rachet Mechanism to achieve that, maybe you could use a Piece of Metall or a flat Tools which fits between the Pins as a Lever. Don't over due the Force applied. The Motor HAS to be turned over during this. To make that easier, undo the Spark Plugs.
  5. Squeeze
    Actually, i think Aluminium won't work. Lead would be my favorite Choice. :301:
  6. Squeeze
    I'm not 100 Percent sure about the Characters you used, but the Result would be 23 here in Germany. But it could possibly mean also 16807.
  7. Squeeze
    That's what i thought also :rasberry::rasberry: I also ride aggressive most of the Time, but seldom with my Wife on the rear Seat. Agressive would mean way over the posted Speed Limit and overtake where a Gap is, considering the Road Conditions, Intersection upcoming, Line of Sight and such Things, disregarding what some People think it is safe to run and plant Signs on the Shoulders of the Road. With someone sitting 2nd Chair, i usually go leisurely, slightly above the Limits and no crazy Manuveurs. Well, maybe 90 Percent of the total riding Time, that is :whistling::whistling:
  8. Squeeze
    You might have a little Resistance on the Contacts of the Sensor Wire.
  9. Squeeze
    The 'hot' Reading of the '83 Temp Gauge is a little Bug. They changed something inside the Gauge to have it read lower in the Range later Years, but other than this, your Bike seems to be normal.
  10. Squeeze
    That might be not enough Pressure to disengage the Clutch. Bleeding the Clutch Line is a real PITA.
  11. Squeeze

    Upgrade brakes?

    Squeeze replied to a topic in Watering Hole

    Pegscraper hits the Nail absolutely on the Head. Good Braking isn't just about being able to lock up the Wheel, it's about being able to control more Braking power than you have under any Circumstances without locking the Wheel up AND loosing control. The best Brake Performance you as a Rider can show is brake as hard as you can and let the Wheel lock up just before you loose control. That's what a perfect ABS System would give you, but under given electronic and mechanical Circumstances, a well trained Rider still would outbrake any ABS System sold today. Second important Part of Brakes is to sustain very good Performance under tough Circumstances. The stock Brake leaves a Lot of Room for Improvement when compared to the newer, blue, silver or gold Star Calipers. First off, the designed Dimensions of the Master in Relation to the Pistons of the Calipers are not as good as the newer System. Second, the Style of Fabrication of the newer Calipers is much more stable under hot Conditions. Thats because the old style Calipers are made out of two Halves and bolted togehter. When the Calipers get hot from Braking, the Bolts let loose and there goes the Perfomance. The newer Style Calipers are casted and out of one Piece, and hold on to Performance even under very hot Situations. The R1/R6 Brakes have been Reference Class since 1998 and still are one of the Best on the 'stock' Parts Market.
  12. Squeeze
    If the Brace wouldn't fall in Place. It's absolutly necessary to do the complete Procedure. Which means loosen Axle, and Pinch Bolts on the upper and lower Tripple Tree. Then Install the Brace with loose Bolts, tighten down the Axle first, then the Bolts on the Brace, the lower Tripple Tree and then the Pinch Bolts on the upper Tripple Tree. If you want to go the extra Mile, let the upper Pinch Bolts loose and manoveur the Bike with the front Wheel against a Wall or use a Stopper on the Ground and push the front Suspension down as far as you can. Repeat that 3 or 4 Time, then tighten down the upper Pinch Bolts. Do not use the Brake to stop the front Wheel while compressing the Fork, that would cause false Bindings during the Procedure.
  13. Squeeze
    I'd love to, but Work is really coming in my Way. There's the big Vmax Meeting this coming Weekend near Berlin, there's a big Vmax Meeting in Belgium the next Weekend, there is a wonderful Meeting the next Weekend on an small Island in the northern Sea. I had to cancel all our Plans and my Wife and i will be working instead of two Weeks Holiday.
  14. Squeeze
    If the Noise changes when the Clutch Lever is pulled, the Bearing in the Clutch Pressure Plate is the Culprit. It's a 6003 standard industrial Size but there's no need to hurry up. Just fix it while your doing the Clutch somewhere in the Future.
  15. Squeeze
    There's one of the Pickup Coils bad. We're talking about an '87 here, two Pickup Coils mounted inside the Stator Cover on front left of the Motor. The 5-Wire Connector should be on the left Side, were the Side Cover meets the Fairing. Check the Wires for Resistance.
  16. Squeeze
    Now, this sounds like a really good Plan, if i only could attend the PiP Meeting ... or at least any Meeting at all. :95::95:
  17. Squeeze
    I don't think they sold seperately. You might need to take it out and match it locally or somebody here might have a old Carb Set ant is willing to take it out. I think, the Screw is a M5x16 mm, but thats only a guess.
  18. Squeeze
    No need to open the Bleeder Valve at any Point. You could open the Lid of the Reservoir before releasing the Lever and watch the Air Bubbles coming out when releasing the Lever. When the Lever is completely released, then pump 4 to 5 Times and see if there are more Bubbles coming up. Be careful when pulling the Lever, Fluid can spit out of the Reservoir until the Seal on the Piston has closed both Borings in the bottom of the Reservoir. If you feel this Procedure has helped, do it the next Evening again. If you don't feel any Progress, the Air is trapped in the Slave at the upgoing Portion of the Line, you should apply some Pressure to the Lever and carefully open the Bleeder Valve to let the Air out. Pull the Lever first, then open the Bleeder Valve.
  19. Squeeze
    You need to bleed the Clutch Line. Sometimes it can be very hard to bleed it correctly. You could try to solve this by pulling the Lever to the Handlebar and secure it with a Wire. Leave it there over the Night. Next Morning undo the Wire and let the Lever go slowly back in normal Position, pump four or five Times and hopefully, the Problem is gone. Make sure there isn't a bow in the Line which goes above the Fluid Level in the Clutch Mastercylinder.
  20. Squeeze
    I'd say the Brown Wire is the "Sense" Wire. If it's connected, the R/R operates by the Voltage which is suplied over the Wire. If the Wire isn't there, the R/R operates over the big Red B+ Wire. No big Deal.
  21. Squeeze
    4 to 6 Weeks per Year
  22. Squeeze
    Good Job Mike, i recommend the Ultrasonic Cleaning. The Outcome is really better than anything i've used and done before.
  23. Squeeze
    Undercutting means you shave some Metal off below the Tips of the Dogs AND their Opposites where they engage to in the other Gear. This creates a Ramp Profile, the Meshing of the Dogs ensures that the Gear stays in Place under load, because the Power is forcing the Dogs into the other Gear instead of the Power is forcing the Dogs out of Place because the're only held in Place by the Shift Fork, which is partly misplaced because of the worn C-Clips on the Tranny Shaft.
  24. Squeeze
    The Valve is a proportiong Valve. You may take a Look at the Linkage, being stuck or binding or wrong adjusted or the Relief Hole in the Master may be clogged.
  25. Squeeze
    Condor's right. The Pump will only run for 5 Seconds and will only restart if the Flywheel sends frequent Signal to the Fuel Pump Relay or the Stop switch is worked ON/OFF
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