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I'd take a Look into the High/Low Switch on the left Handle Bar. Those Contacts are often corroded and cause a lot of Resistance.

Gary, my guess would be either a small 3 or 4 Axle CNC Mill or a 3D Printer. I'm also sufferin' A LOT ...

Welllll .... let me think about that ..... NOHHHHH, i'm not gonna do that !!!! I learned, Dog Groomers are not cheap around here !!! :mo money: And the poor Exchange Rate nowadays doesn't help at all !!

Rick, do you mean to say we all have to shave our Heads to get equal with you ?

The Carb Bodies and most internals are the same, and physically fit on the Vmax Intake, but the Jets are way different inbetween Vmax and 1Gen Ventures. I'd not run a Vmax Engine with the jetting of a Venture, it's not just a loss in Perfomance, the Vmax will run way too lean, damage will occur ... You could completely rejet a 1Gen Carb-Set, but when it's all done, you'll have spend a LOT of Money. There are three Jets inside every Carb-Bowl, two on Intake and behind the Side Cover plus the Emulsion Tube (aka Needle Jet) and the Jet Needle.

A great win-Win Situation. He made the record and if Things would have gone south, not much Harm would have been done. The Renault-Truck is .... average at best and this 2013 Lotus-Renault Formula1 Car isn't even worth mentioning. Only the Trailer is worth surviving ...

I'd make contact with Dano and have him upgrade the Starter Clutch while everything is torn apart.

Sorry Carl, but when you ohm out these five Wires, you probably look at the Connector and the Pins to stick the Wire leads in ? :p

My first Look would go at the Ignition Pick up Coil, if this checks out while testing after the miss startes, i'd look at the TCI.

The Vmax Guys in US allways run on 1/4 Mile Tracks, there are only one or two 1/8 Tracks i know of. You might be right about NHRA limiting Track lenght as the Top Fuelers got very fast. Over here, the Top Classes in the european Championship run 1000 ft Lenght, Bikes as well as Top Fuel. The average Joe's mostly race on small Air Fields or a closed Part of an Autobahn, there's only one Occasion a normal Guy can hit a real Drag Strip (meaning a prepped Track), that's public Race in Hockenheim in two Weeks. And that's only because the Dragster have Test&Tune Sessions to prepare for the big Dogs Race the following Weeks (Nitrolympics) and public Race is a Cash Cow and fills the Gaps in the Test&Tune Time Schedule. There are some recent Runs from two Weeks ago on Youtube ... first Run against a Guy on a BMW S1000RR second Run, also against the Beemer Guy third Run against a race modded Cowasaki ZX-10 Those all are slow, 11.4 and 11.5 seconds Runs. I'm not good enough out of the hole and some head wind didn't help either. Even with my big, fat Frame, i should do about a second faster than that, my personal best is a 10.958@200 kph though. Lighter weighted and skilled Riders in US do about 9.8 with similar Bikes.

Sorry Puc, but last time i checked, a 1/4 Mile was still a quarter Mile, even over here in a metric part of the World ... These Days you decribe are still there, unfortunately not so often over here, but still ... I also raced what i brung (my '09 Max), so, where's your Point ?

Sounds like you need to replace the Clutch Fluid and bleed the Clutch very good after that.

Have a Talk with Dano he can fill you in much better than i can. Basically, you send him your Flywheel and he'll mount a much better Starter Clutch Assembly and supply a new 76-th Wheel. The new Clutch works with 18 elliptical coupling Pieces where the 1Gen Starter Clutch brings in 3 Rollers for Duty. One may say, it's not necessary to replace a working Starter Clutch. That might be true, but you never know when Things start to go south and it could happen next Week. It's not a fun job and while you're have the motor apart, it's a good Idea to do this and never think about the Starter Clutch again.

Good Job so far, my sincere congrats !! Please, only use Loctite where called for. The Manual is not wrong on everything. I'd also consider calling up Dano and have him replace the Starter Clutch with the upgraded Clutch Assembly while you have the Engine apart.

Iirc, Mike bought the Shindengen MosFET during a Group Buy Dano set up for us here.

I know, pricey, but i'd take a deeper look into a BMW K 1600 GT or GT/L. It's by far the closest match to 1Gen on the overall Line up on Standard Tourers nowadays. Some of those have Issues, yes, but you won't find any Manufacturer or Model which doesn't have a Glitch or two. I looked and took a test drive on a GT, and if i could talk myself into buying a BMW Motorcycle, i would have bought it. The Mrs. is not absolutely happy with the Back Seat, but most of these Things would have found a Solution. I'd bought a GT ( for the Rider Seating and Steering Position, plus Power (Maps) and mounted the rear End and Trunk of a GT/L for the Convinience of the Back Seater.

Rick, whatever you smoked, i'd like to have a share !!! Except .... well, no Doormats for me !!! :crackup:

Rick, thank you for the Flowers, but really, i feel for you :crackup: Since it's looking like we're going down a nice and romantic Alley at the Moment, how about you take a intense look at the Light at the End of that Alley and recognize not only the V-Shape of the light but also that there are four emiting Points, not only two ... :stickpoke::rotf: Ok, honestly, i'm glad you decided not to fade away. Too much Members have gone dark for one or another Reason. I somewhat understand some of their Reasons as far as know about these, but nevertheless i'm sad for the each and every Loss we had, especially of those who had to left us too early because of medical Reasons or Crashes. I might not have been on the same side of the Fence with them all the time, but anyway, i just miss them all ...

You'd better stay here, even if you made a traiterous Deal on a so called "Motorcycle" .... TWICE !!!! :p:p Who else would i give a nice little smack right between the Eyes every now and then ?

Dan, sorry to read about that dropped Bike. But, to be honest, i'd rather have a Injuries from riding to hard or fast than from dumping my Ride on SLOW Move.

Looks nice, but how'ya getting the Bike inside ??

You also bought a washing machine with a very small opening ?

Congrats !! :happy34: I'm sure you'll like it and hate it for the very same Reasons ... if you love the Vmax, it's not only a Ride, but a Way of Life, pretty much like VR.org. If you need help, register at vmaxforum.us. From what i heard, the Language is not as nice and polite as here, but technically, there's probably not much else in english Language. My 1Gen Vmax doesn't get as half of Attention as she deserves, but even when i'm almost ready to sell the poor Ride, it's one short Ride and i'm sold on it again. Of Course, mine's being far away from being stock, but anyway ... i love it. I recently aquired an oil-eating 1500cc Motor for cheap, looking at rebuilding it and fit a nice EFI with servo-operated 48 mm TB's ... Yah, that should get this Thing (or the MKII) going .... (if i ever find Time to get it done ...)

Oh sorry, i misread your Post. Well, if you can't get the Feeler Gauge inbetween in any Position, you have to change to a thinner Shim before you can actually check and determine the Lash. IF you get the Shim out, that is ... I wish you much of Luck and Coolness, that's not funny at all. If you can't get the Bucket down enough to slide the Shim out, you have to undo the Cam Bearing Caps and loosen the two Bolts on the Cam Sprocket. This should loosen Things up just enough to pull the Shims. Nothing i envy you ... It's nothing unusual, the Way these Engines are made, the Lash get tighter and tighter over Time and there nothing to "hear" at all. The Valve hammer the Seat into the Head and there nothing you can do about it except check and bring in thinner Shims. A good running Bike is relative thing, it will stop running "good" when the EX-Valves and their Seats are burned up enough and start to drippin' into the Headers.

Since this Job is already a done Deal, it's pretty pointless to discuss the Issue afterwards. But anyway, no, it's not ok to MEASURE something in a Place which is not the Reference Point for the Specs of the Manufacturera and rely on the Outcome. If the Manufacturer would have tought it's a good Idea to go for the lowest Point on the Cam, they would have described the Procedure and the Lash this Point. The Specs on Valve Lash are given for the Reference Point, using the lowest Point on the Cam MIGHT give you a close Result, but the Cams might be under Tolerance in the low Area and you have the Lash set too tight with this. Although i never thought about going the easy Way, i don't think there's only a small Difference inbetween the specified Point and the lowest Point on the Cam. I venture the guess to say it's at least 10 or 15 Percent Difference. i.E. ....it's pretty much the same as saying it's 20 Degrees outside ... What Degrees are you talking about ? cold 20 Fahrenheit, nice 20 Celsius or even very cold 20 Kelvins? Same Value, but a huge Difference without naming the Scale. If you say, all Valves are tight, it's might be an Indication of a wrong Reference Point, or did you use metric Values to measure Thickness with an "inch" feeler Blade ?