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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. Well, my Congrats on keeping the Blow Out under Control !! Whatever happened afterwards is a Piece of Cake against what could happened when you would have lost the Bike. Thanks to the Guy who helped you out. I love to hear those Stories, makes my Day, always !! In all Honesty, i would not ride a Bike like this. Suspension is major Thing on every Bike, even more with our heavy Rides, and i would not trust my Bike, my Hide and my Money to a questionable rear Suspension. I would get another Swing Arm and all other tweaked Parts and mount those, lined up as they belong. Period.
  2. There's a Safety Device in the Bike, called Fuel Pump Relay. It controls the Operationof the Fuel Pump, based on Spark Signal Input. If the Motor stops, the Spark Signal stops, so does does the Fuel Pump after 5 Seconds or so. What you see at the Vent Tubes is normal, like it should be. My first Impression is, there's a Float or the Floater Valve stuck. Drain the Carb Bowls while the Key is off, then turn the Key on and hit the Carbs carefully with the Grip of a Screwdriver or a Piece of Wood. Shut the Key off and On again until the Fuel Pump stops on it own, not by time.
  3. Also, if i remember correctly, Pegscraper elevated the rear by flipping over the triangular Bracket at the Shock or in the Suspension.
  4. The outer Bearings of these tapered Roller Bearings will just fall out once you carefully removed the Oil Seals. I don't think it's possible to push the inner Race deeper into the Swing Arm. As long as both Collars which go through the Oil Seals are in Place, i can see no Reason for the Pivot Bolts not catching enough to allow any Sideplay. Maybe there're some Parts missing beyond the Oil Seal or the Swingarm is bent for whatever Reason ?
  5. If there's only minimum Contact between Tire and Swing ARm, one could put the right Side Washer in between the Rim and the Final Drive and gain 2.5 mm of Distance in doing so. The Vmax Guys over here have to do that often, because 190 or 200 Tire won't fit into the Vmax Swing Arm either. There's no Damage done, just a bit of Inconvience getting the Washer in Place and the Axle going though it. But a Dab of Grease goes a long Way in that.
  6. The uncompressed Springs are hindering your Effort. Try to sit on the Bike, switch to manual, then lower the Pressure to Zero. Worked for me.
  7. Check the Starter Button. There's a normally closed Switch in there which disconnects the Front Light during starting. If teh Button is hed bck by gunk or the Contacts are corroded. the Light won't come back on after you started the Motor.
  8. Maybe it's because some People think, it's not a good Idea to hit the Crankshaft and all the Bearings within with a BIG Hammer.... at least, i'm thinking that. I didn't see it mentioned, but when you didn't change the Oil, there's a Chance there was some the Fuel in the Oil, which evaporated over the running Time. Just top the Oil off and check the Level often until you you gathered reliable Data. You could also check the Coolant Reservoir if there's some Oil in the Coolant. Unlikely, but happens.
  9. I'm sorry to say, but a Lot of Folks who could give you Input are at the MD at Freebird's Place, so please, don't feel ignored. The Opinions will come, just takes a bit longer than usual. On a second Thought, at least i for one, can't really see your Questions in your Posting. You aren't happy with the Mileage the Tires provide, Ok. I get that, but other than this, i don't understand. I'm sorry, really.
  10. You could dismount the Pedal from the Axle and relocate it at a lower Position. Just don't go too low, and check if the Master has a little Freeplay when the Pedal is not in use.
  11. FJR Rotors of any Year won't fit on a stock MKII without Bracket for the Calipers. MKII Rotors are 282 mm in Diameter, earlier FJR has 298 mm, later one are 320mm. And yes, R1 Calipers are a upgrade for the MKII Ventures.
  12. Scott, while it might be a good Idea to replace the TCI, but, if i'd be in your Shoes, i'd check the Resistance of the Pick-Up Coils when the Bike dies.
  13. Exactly what Monty said. In Regard to the Explanation, creating a Vacuum also clears the Shavings in between Cylinder, Piston and Rings
  14. I'm looking forward to the Outcome !! Thank you Gary, you're one big Asset to all of us !!
  15. skydoc_17 should have them, http://www.partshark.com too as well as several others Vendors carry the
  16. Not maybe, it WILL cause the Axles of the Reducer Gears to bind.
  17. Did you use a Gasket between Stator Cover and Casing ?
  18. skydoc_17 and other Members here carry them
  19. A non-fitting Clutch Lever can keep the Clutch partly open, so would a blocked Relief-Hole in the bottom of the Rservoir. Fluid expands when the Things get hotter, there's not Way to get the created Pressure out of the Line, so, the Slve will start to expand. Chech the Lever at the Contact Point to the Piston in the Master. You should find a Little Slack there. Then undo the Reservoir-Cover and look in the Bottom and fiond the Two Holes, carefully and slowly move the Lever and see if the Holes get closed by the Piston on Movement. Normally, you can see the Seal through both Holes.
  20. You gotta see, you're reducing Oil Flow on the Crank Bearings by creating a larger Hole. It may not make much of Difference on the a normally riden Venture, but, especially on a hot ridding Bike or a Vmax, i for one wouldn't do that. We need all the Lubrication where it belongs to, and that's the Main Bearings.
  21. So, a third of the upper Area doesn't look bad but from there on all the Way around even where Lots of Oil is. I don't think Stator Cooling is the Problem here. Check the Bore in the Bolt anyway, but i venture to guess that's Ok.
  22. Can't see it in the Pics, is the burned Area in the upper or the lower Area when mounted ?
  23. There's a small Bore (1mm Diameter) inside the Bolt which holds the Flywheel on the Crank Shaft. Inside the Bolt is a Wire. This was an early Upgrade on the 1Gen Ventures, called Stator Colling Kit. I'm not saying your isn't there or the Hole is blocked, but you better take look at it before you get the new Stator installed.
  24. May be so, but the 2Gen's are way overgeared, and the FJR/Vmax Final Drive will compensate for that. 400 RpM doesn't sound much, but it makes a noticable Difference. The Harely have what, 90 hp or less, and the "Gen has a hundred. How in the World would a Harley pull better if it's not the Gearing.
  25. Just put a 2x4 flat under the left Leg of the Center Stand and keep the Oil in. Some Oil will escape through the middle Drive Gear Cover and maybe a Coffee Cup full out of the Stator Cover, but's that's it. Also helps later while mounting the Cover, the Axles of the Reducer Gear will stay in Place. Also, watch and notice where the Knuckle of the Shift Linkage is at, you need to place the Linkage this way later.
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