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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. You may be right Dan, you got me ! I better should stop messing with that EFI and renew my Particulars about the Carbs.
  2. you adjust #2 to #1, then #3 to #4, then both right to both left Carbs. Speaking in Screws, that's left Screw, then right rear and finally right front Screw.
  3. I don't know Gossey and i find it very nice when you keep such 'nice Articles' for yourself. That's what the Internet and such Boards are about. To exchange Informations and Opinions. What you stated first sure doesn't say anything about what you've 'meant' to say. You stated that setting the Floats at any Point where they're not too low or too high would be good enough as the Floaters are just a fill/stop Switch. If that would be a Fact, Yammi would not insist on accurate Dimensions for the Floater Valves during the Procedure. Not to mention what Goose expierenced with wrong Settings as a Lot of other Guys on a Lot different Bikes and Motors.
  4. Nonsense, eh ?? OK, you're right.:bowdown::bowdown:
  5. The Overflow is sitting so high this is only for Emergency Purpose. A correct Float Level will ensure the proper filling of the Bowl at any Circumstances and it will provide the proper Environment which all Jet Dimensions are adjusteted to. These is for both, Fuel Jets and Air Jets. Main or Pilot Jets, fixed or exchangeable Jets. I'm sorry, but if you believe it or not, i can't think of explaining the Function in an other Way. Only Thing i can add, the Sizes of the Jets sure adjust how much Fuel or Air goes through them, but the Amount of Fuel which is actually going a Jet is under Influence of the Speed the Fuel travels and the Amount of Pressure which is operating this Flow. With a High Fuel Level the positive Pressure (by Gravity) is higher in the Float Bowl. If you put Vacuum on the other Side of the Jet, more Fuel is moved through the Jet on the same Amount of Vacuum. These Differences are very small, but nevertheless this adds up on the Fuel Consumption and Throttle Response. Pegscraper once wrote about a Car Engine which sucked Fuel through the Main Jets on Idle, because the Factory has had the Idle Circuit on the Carbs too lean.
  6. There's nothing weird about that. Yammi brought the Venture in '83, used this Bike and the Motor for getting the Vmax on the Wheels and later, they cross used the Vmax Parts on the Ventures. Crank, Waterpump, Cover, Clutch, Carbs ... The 34mm Venture Carb share the same Casing as the 35mm Vmax Carbs. The 1300cc Crank and Con Rods are 1FK, Clutch, just about anything inside the Motor except Pistons, Tranny Gears and Cams and possibly the Valves. These Carbs have been used in other Bikes also, the Half ot it takes use in the 535 Virago, i'm not sure how this Bike is called in US. As long as your Yelling does make me completely deaf, i don't mind being yelled at. I hope you can hold up to my Answers :rotf::rotf:
  7. Regarding the Hub Spline and Brake Disc Mounting Area, i think the Measurements are exactly the same and will fit bolt on. I don't think the Vmax Load Index, even at higher Speeds will compare to the Loads of a 1Gen. You're comparing Apples and Oranges here. Only Answer would be to ask Yamaha about the Vmax Rim tech Specs. Other than this, it's all about Tire Diameter. If you lower the rear on the Venture, you will have to have a Lot of persuasive Power to corner the Bike.
  8. The Height of the Fuel Level is significant for the Fuel Consumption. That's just because of plain Gravity Force. The Higher the Float sits, the higher the Level in the Carb Bowl, the higher the Level, the more Fuel is in the Jets. More Fuel in the Jets without any Vacuum Force needed to suck it into the Carb Throat, means more Fuel than needed is sucked into the Motor. Rich Mixture at any State below Full Throttle means less Mileage.
  9. The Change on the final Drive was not only cosmetic. They changed the Lubricating System of the Spline onthe Drive Shaft. From what i did read here, i think the Shaft and final Drive as a Unit from a '83 would interchange to a later Model and vice versa. The Swingarms may be different, but the Drivetrain Parts fit.
  10. what are the first three Digits of the Number ?
  11. Vmax Rim is 3.5x15. But i'm not sure about the laod Index of the Wheel.
  12. The earlier Venture have different Sliders than the later, regarding only the Lifter Hole Boring. May be different Carb Springs also. Not sure about the Year of Change. The '85 Tranny is not a Vmax Tranny, the Vmax Ratios are completely different. The '83 and possibly '84 final Drive and Drive Shafts are different than the later Diffs. Easily to decide when you look at them. The newer Housing has a clean Look, whereas the earlier Casing had more Stripes to see. Gear Ratio 33/9 stayed the same on all Years up to present. Not sure if the Swingarm is different. I heard someone say they are different but that unconfirmed. TCI was changed in 1990 to the newer single Coil Pickup.
  13. here is it ... You need to unzip the Font File and drag into the "Fonts" Folder on your System. Usually this would be "C:\Windows\Fonts\"
  14. From my Knowledge, all Parts except the Throttle Plates and Carb Bodies are interchangeable between Vmax and 1Gen's. The Vmax has (from '86 to '07) 35mm Carbs, the Venture has 34 mm Carbs like the first Year Vmax. There are Differences between the Air Lifter Holes on the early Sliders, maybe different Springs and Vacuum Ports in the Bodies, but other than this the are all the same. So i dare to say, the Vmax Floaters will fit your Carbs.
  15. I've got two Toyotas with Mica Colour and two Audies with Pearl. I liked them all. I'd say both a nice, but it depends on the overall Goal. The Work with a Pearl Tone is more and it's very easy to screw up. Mica is just a metallic Tone and easier to spray.
  16. On my '93, the Toolkit is in the right Saddlebag. Don't know where is should be on the MK I. The Quality of the Tools is not bad, in Fact better than anything from a Manufacturer i saw before.
  17. 8,10,12,14,17,19,24,27 mm are the basic Dimensions you will need. 3,4,5,6 and 8 mm Allen Head Wrenches, ball headed might be a worth a Look. The Spark Plugs are mostly 18 mm , deep Socket needed.
  18. The Limiter is because of the 'weaker' Valve Springs of the 2Gens.
  19. If you find your rear Brakes sensitive or even too sensitive, you might better choose the standard, organic EBC Pads for the rear. The HH are sintered and may add too much Brake Power on the rear.
  20. Good Job !! Put a Piece of Wood under the left Leg of the Centerstand. About 6/8 or 1 Inch thick might do the Trick. It will help you keeping the Axles of the Gears and the Axels itself in Place until you got the Stator Cover on. There's no need to ask how i came to that Conclusion.
  21. I made a Spacer on the Lathe inside Diameter a little more than the Bolt's outside, outside Diameter a little smaller than the Rotor's inside and about 4 mm high. Put the Spacer between Bolt Head and Crank. Perfect Stopper for the flying Rotor and. Other than this, i second Mike's Statement. you know the saying here ... Mighty is the the Wrenchers Force if he works with Cheater Tubes (maybe a bad Translation, but TRUE!!!)
  22. I'm not 100 Percent sure about the 2Gens, but on the other Yammi Bikes, the Red/White Wire is on every Coil and is the + Lead. The TCI is switching Ground, so the other Side(yellow/orange/grey/white) would be your Sensor Wire.
  23. Wouldn't THAT qualify for an Oxymoron ?? Riding CT on a Bike and act like an Adult ? :rotfl::rotfl: No Offense, just kidding ....
  24. What are you looking and researching for ? I'm quite familiar with both Bikes.
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