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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. Squeeze
    Hey jt, this sounds as much as Catch 22 ....
  2. Squeeze
    The Vmax Unit would work also. But this Unit has higher gearing and you would ride at 500 RpM higher on a given Speed.
  3. Squeeze
    I guess you need another Bulb. The Buld you have installed seems to be somewhere out of Alignment. This happens.
  4. Squeeze
    I think the bare Engine would fit into a Venture. It's not larger than the old Motor. Not sure about the U-Joint Connection though. But i seriously doubt that the Throttle Bodies and the Airbox would find it's Place. Next, there are 4 Computers on the Bike, 3 of them should go into the the Bike. Where should they go, when you want to keep the Trunk and Saddlebags Space available ?
  5. Squeeze
    No Test Rides all over the World, yet. For what i've heard, there are four of those in US, but only two of them even have Oil in the Motor. But someone even mangaged to drop the Demo Bike and ruined one of the Scoops.
  6. Squeeze
    Definately, the 1Gen MKII Diaphragm are the same as the Vmax Parts. Even the Part Number is 1FK-, which indicates VMX as first appear of the Part. The MKI Diaphragm is smaller in the Lifter Hole Boring Size, but not different on anything else.
  7. Squeeze
    Sounds like a Ground Problem to me. Maybe you forgot a Wire Connection during the mounting of the Parts ?
  8. Squeeze

    wierd wave

    Squeeze replied to dynodon's topic in Watering Hole

    Does this mean you don't dream about the next Wild Hogs Movie ?? :rotfl::rotfl:
  9. Squeeze
    You can carry a spare Set and change it somewhere down the Road. It's a 15 Minutes Job and needs not that much Tools to get it done. But, if the Riders would start to use the front Brake a Lot more than the rear, the wear on the rear Pads would go down dramatically. It just makes no sense to operate mostly on the rear Brakes, when the best what you can get out of it is not more than 20 Percent of the overall Brake Performance of the Bike. And when the some Riders would update their front Brakes with R1/R6/FJR Calipers and the fitting Mastercylinder, i'd be in Heaven, knowing my fellow Members have the best possible Performance and Equipment for slim Bucks. Just one time Investment in Safety Blue instead of Safety Chrome would do the Trick.
  10. Squeeze
    Brad, i have to add a big "BUT" here. If one is feeling the rear Brake on a 2Gen as sensitive or too sensitive, he'd better stay away from the HH Pads and use the standard organic EBC Pads instead. These HH Pads really bite and with the reported rear Wheel Lockup's it may be better to go with the less agressive Friction Material on the rear.
  11. Squeeze
    I recommend EBC HH Pads and other than checking the Rotors for wear and Cracks, there's nothing to do on them.
  12. Squeeze
    Sounds like the Pilot Fuel Jets in the Carb Bowl are clogged.
  13. Squeeze
    Dan, forget about the synthetic Stuff. Use a standard, mineral Oil and be a happy Clutcher, ahhhrgg Camper ....
  14. Squeeze
    Both Engines interchange and will fit bolt on. You need to watch the Year, they changed the Pickup for the Ignition (and the Flywheel) in 1990 from two Coils to a single Coil. Different Carbs have been mentioned.
  15. Squeeze
    IIRC, that was three Marks with a centre Punch where the Motor Number is. The Number is located on the left rear of the Casing, just behind the #1 Cylinder when looking from left and above.
  16. Squeeze
    I don't know the actual US prices, but here in Europe it sure would wind up more than 20 Euros.... 20 Bucks worth of good Beer :D
  17. Squeeze
    Jeff, i didn't wrote "his" Crack, i wrote "the Crack" !! :scratchchin::scratchchin:
  18. Squeeze
    Do you mind posting a Picture of the Crack ??
  19. Squeeze
    You won't get them out without ruining them. Scrap Metal is worth a Lot these Days. Give them a next Life like the Wheel.
  20. Squeeze
    Brake-Calipers are different for sure.
  21. Squeeze
    Mike, would you consider 2 psi as an Oil Pressure ? What you talking about are 'Pressure on the Reference Point not the real Pressure in the Main Feed Line. But we have been through this Discussion and i won't do again. If there is no Oil Flow, the Bearings woudn't last more than some Minutes. The Pressure Buildup in the Main Feed Line is a Sideeffect from the Oilflow the Pump creates, not the designed Goal of the Lubrication Design. Dan, get over your Worries, as long as you keep the Oil Level half Way on the Glass, there is nothing to worry about.
  22. Squeeze
    Bob, i mounted a 4-Piston R1 front Caliper on the rear of my Venture. The stock R1 rear Caliper is a 1-Piston floating Caliper and good for the small 240mm Rotor but not for our heavy Bikes. The rear Brake with the 4-Piston Caliper is ok for me, but there is Room for Improvement left. I'm not sure if i need to bleed the Line a second Time or if the Master has too much of Displacement but there will be more to investigate. See, i don't take much use of the rear Brake and frankly, as long as there's any Kind of Deceleration, it's fine for me.
  23. Squeeze
    There is no "Pressure" you can loose. When you loose the Oil-Pump and notice that, you'll be too for late shutting down the Engine. On my Max, i currently have a Motor which has an 1 Liter Oil Pan Extension mounted. The Light comes on constantly above 6.5 k RpM. Only Thing you can do about this, is to undo the Sensor and mount it in backwards. Or just plain check the Oil Level regularly and ignore the Light under Acceleration.
  24. Squeeze
    Guys, with y'all Friends pulling for Dan and back him up, i'm very glad that he doesn't need any Enemies. or, as an ancient Saying tells ... God should safe me from my Friends, i will take care about my Enemies on my own ...
  25. Squeeze
    Hey, that's all in all wonderful. But where's the Fun in that riding Style ??
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