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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. Sound like Heat causing a Rotor to warp. A partially plugged return Hole wouldn't let you feel any Pulse while braking.
  2. 22mm or 7/8 Inches
  3. Maybe he's refering to the lowest 6 mm Bolt on the left rear Cover. This is a Drain Plug for the angeled Gears. But there's not much Oil to drain, maybe a Coffee Cup comes out there.
  4. I haven't done by myself, but i that's what i've heard. They will come out through the Bearing Path after removing the Needle Bearing and Spacer.
  5. I second Freebird's Statement. I've expierenced the same. A Friend of mine virtually seems to use no Tire at all. Even when we ride a larger Trip and i come home with a noticeable Loss of Tire Diameter, his Tires aren't used at all. Once we measured his Tire before/after a 1200 km Run. He had exactly the same Numbers for a 1/10 of a Millimeter when we were back. I just don't get it, but i've seen it with my own Eyes. Also, he has a Lot Less Fuel Consumption than i do. It depends a Lot on the riding Style, be it Tires, Fuel Economy or Brake Pad Wear.
  6. Been there, done that, once .... a Day my whole Life .. :whistling::whistling:
  7. If Condor's say's the 4200 RpM sound about right, there's no Way that you might have 7,800 RpM at the same Speed. Because of the elevated Level, you should have around 4700 RpM at that Speed. When you calculate Speeds and gear Ratio's the different Ratios at a given Speed change the RpM for about 440.
  8. 1st Gen and 2Gen aren't different in final Drive Ratio, both are 9/33. But i'm with you, it seems, there's something wrong with the Bike.
  9. Thanks Jeremy, for expressing my Thoughts in a Way better Language than i come up with.
  10. If you're talking about the Rubber Dampers which the 6 Fingers of the Drive Hub engage to, you need to push them out with a Shop Press. Reinstalling the same Way using Hairspray as a temporary Lubricant.
  11. Good on you, but i'd check and clean the Stator Connector anyway.
  12. You can't lower the RpM by using a Vmax final Drive. But, i think you could probably have a Vmax final Drive already mounted. 4200 RpM at 75 mph seems a bit high to me. Rpm's should be around 3200-3400. But other Members will chime in here and state their Facts.
  13. Bob, how do feel your Consumption ? If you feel you Mileage is good for you, just let it go. If you think there is Room for Improvement, you might do the Hassle and go through this. You adjust the Floater Hight by bending the Tab on the Floater which operates the Floater Valve. Take the Floater out, insert a Slothead Screwdriver between Floater and Tab and bend it slightly to expand the Gap. Reinsert the Floater, watch out for placing the Tab between the Valve Pin and the small Wire and retest the Floater Hight.
  14. Well, i've to admit, the Venture's are not my primary Interest, so i did not research any Aspect of the Ventures. But i'm sure, if i keep on reading here and research the Questions which arise in my Head due to Questions asked by fellow Members :thumbsup2:, i'll do better over the Years. :lightbulb: But even then, i won't claim anything in the Line of a 'walking Library'. There are a Lot other Guys out here and there, which would cover my Knowledge with only 10 Percent of theirs.
  15. Rick, i'm sorry, i can only answer what i know, primary Question was the Difference between DT and DTC ... which i answered to my Knowledge. You brought up these different Model Codes, which i don't know how to answer. I agree, there should be a Difference. May be the CB ??
  16. The 'C' Model stands for California Model. Other than Emission Control Devices, there nothing different to a non-'C'-Model.
  17. This has to do with the internal Pump Effects which every Motor has. When a Tuner starts to soup this Thing up, one of the first Things is to increase the Windows between the Cylinders underneath the Sleeves. But, if you look into this V4, you will find not so much Possibilitiy to do that. In Fact there's nearly none. A higher Oil Level will shorten these 'Windows' almost to nothing, without having the Crankshaft plunging in the Oil and foaming it up. This is also the Reason why these Engines easily start to pump excessive Oil into the Airbox when the Oil Level is high and the a certain Amount of Power is demanded.
  18. 16 or 17 mm might be the best shot. Everything else seems a bit too low ot too high.
  19. Place the Carb in a Bowl, put a Hose on the Fuel Port of the Carb and blow Air into the Hose, fill the Bowl slowly with Fuel until the Floater Valve shuts. Measure the Level, adjust the Tab on the Floater, retest until the Level is fine. You can leave the Floater Bowl off during the Procedure. Time consuming, but the only accurate Way i know.
  20. Search the Bike on the left Side for a Wire Connector with white or yellow Wires. It should be about where your Knee is. Take your digital Multimeter, set it on AC and 20 Volts Range and measure the Voltages between these Wires. With a fully charged Battery all three Readings should be around 15 Volts with the Bike on Idle. On higher Rpm, the Voltages should rise a Bit, but not over 17.5 Volts each. The Voltages Readings are not that important, more important is that they should be equal. If this checks out fine, mostly your Battery is shot. If the P/O did replace the Battery more recently, the Regulator/Rectifier could be the Culprit.
  21. I had this on my '93. Once i go over a Bump or into a Pothole, the Bars would start shaking. I found the Forklegs moving different on their Travel. One Leg was stickier than the other. I replaced the Legs with another Set ond the Shake is gone. The Reason for moving differently is yet to determine. There are two Possibles, first, the Bushing of the inner Tube are worn and add a Lot of Friction or one Leg is slightly bend.
  22. Too low Oil Level and weak stock Springs. Put in Progressive Springs and be done with it.
  23. www.sourceforge.net/projects/bom
  24. Please open the Pinch Bolts on the lower Fork Yoke before tightening the Steering Head Bearings.
  25. You will ruin the big Ball Bearing on the outgoing Shaft of the Tranny. That's behind the left rear Cover on the Motor. You need to dismount the Motor and disassemble Motor and the the Shaft. Don't do it ! No need to ask how i came to that Knowledge.
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