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bongobobny

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Everything posted by bongobobny

  1. bongobobny
    You may be having a problem with one of the wiring harness connectors like the one that sends the TCI output to the coils, etc...
  2. bongobobny
    YAH!!! What Ray said!! Also upgrade your battery cables to a higher gauge (thicker) wire!! Huskier cables, both positive and negative, alone can make a difference! There waqs a member that made upgrade kits but I don't think he is doing them any more...
  3. bongobobny
    Ummm,he is refrerring to my first post! I would have to look at the proportioning valve again, I was going by memory of how it worked. I thought it triggered the rears a few milliseconds prior to the front but I have been known to be wrong. No, I am NOT pulling Goldie's brakes apart to look at it again... Didn't mean to start a pi$$ing match about whether linked is good or bad, just expressed my opinion and preferences, as stated, in my second post...
  4. bongobobny
    Buy a can of seafoam and put it in your gas tank and drive it like you stole it! Also have a set of plugs as the seafoam will remove a lot of accumulated gunk from the carbs and the upper cylinder area and foul up the plugs in mo time! Yes, it will smoke big time as well. As far as the battery probe, it is probably all corroded. Just remove it and sand it with some fine sandpaper starting with some 260 grit and finish up with 400 grit. If the battery needs replacing, then buy a DEKA AGM from Skydoc17, he is a distributer and gives us ventureriders a great price. To eliminate the probe you take a 2K to 4Kohm resistor and tie it to the battery plus terminal. It then tricks the computer by sensing about 6 volts, which is about the voltage at the probe when it is working. Do NOT hook it up directly to the battery plus as it will blow out the circuit for battery sense. Very important, check the date code on the tires!!! Even if it looks brand new, for your own safety, do not use tires more than 6 years old! This is recommended by the tire manufacturers for your own good! The xdate code is a 4 digit number on one side of the tire inside an oval shaped section. The first two digits are the week of the year, and the last two are the year of manufacture. The number 1308 would mean it was manufactured on the thirteenth week of the year 2008. If you find a three digit number immediately replace it as it is older than 12 years old!!! As mentioned, Earl, Skydoc, also sells aq replacement fuse kit for 1st gens. He also has some other stuff he sells that you may consider at a later date. Welcome aboard!!!!!
  5. bongobobny
    Ummmmmmm!! Burgers...
  6. bongobobny
    I'm thinking you're gonna love it! Good luck and enjoy!
  7. bongobobny
    OK some more pictures, these of the mockup trial, it JUST fits!!! Now, just how much more shiny can I make the piece???
  8. bongobobny
  9. bongobobny
    Dang Tom, you sure got that looking purdy!!
  10. bongobobny
    Hey Jay! Well, the paint on the MC is drying, the adapter bracket is all shined up and looks like a chrome piece, and I just sent out the brake line to have it magically converted into a SS jacketed line about 1 1/2' shorter and SAE threads on the end that screws into the MC. Next step is to find out what year Honda I need to get parts for. I am now thinking I will have to go to a junk yard for the caliper brackets...
  11. bongobobny
    Hmmmm! Looked at a couple of items and liked what I saw...
  12. bongobobny
    Uhhh, sweet talk Carbon1 into fabricating a set?? If he does I guarantee they will be top quality... Other than that, Brian, I don't know of any source of new ones that would be a direct bolt on. They do show up on Fleabay once in a while but not often...
  13. bongobobny
    Yes, that will affect some more than others...
  14. bongobobny
    Hey, uhhh, Peggy, has Ron had his testostrone level checked lately? Maybe his levels are low and that's affecting his desire to ride, or do anything for that matter..
  15. bongobobny
    What, retirement is not the bed of roses you were hoping for??? Bored already??
  16. bongobobny
    Hey Bubber, look at it this way, you doubled your money!! I'll take an investment that yields 100% any day!!!
  17. bongobobny
    I already won the money I didn't spend on the lotteries...
  18. bongobobny
    Gee, I feel the opposite about delinking, I wish the 2nd gen was linked, that way the rear tire would probably not have as great a tendancy to kick out if you hit just the rear. I guess it's all just personal taste,,,
  19. bongobobny
    Ummm, the way I see it, the biker was out of line first...
  20. bongobobny
    Yes, I remember ole Lester and Earl from the old days...
  21. bongobobny
    Hi Jay, I build and test flight control systems myself, a senior electrohydraulic tech at Moog, Inc. The function of the proportioning valve is two fold. First, it requires a certain pressure buildup to overcome the spring rate before any oil can flow to the front brake. This means the rear brake starts to close and brake slightly before the front so you don't nosedive as much. Secondly it is an oriface which regulates flow rate and pressure so that the front brake won't brake harder than the rear brake. That being said I do not know of a source for the seals, so unless it is torn, you have no recourse than trying to recondition what you have. You can try soaking them in solvent and wiping them and then baking them for a short while, but as you know, once a seal has deformed, it is almost impossible to recondition them. I would concentrate on your rear master, the front and rear caliper, and the anti dive plunger. MK1's brakes are anemic at best, converting them to MK2 is a lot of work but worth it in the end...
  22. bongobobny
    Good info!! Glad everything is fixed, now get out and ride!!
  23. bongobobny
    WOT = Wide Open Throttle. Something 2nd genners have to do to keep up with 1st gens that are just cruising along... Hack = a trike conversion to a regular 2 wheeler The Boss = Freebird, or at least that's what we let him think... MD = Maintenance Day. There are several, but the biggie is the one in June at Freebird's place M&E = Meet and Eat. We are an eating club with a riding disorder Boomerisms = a comment with dubious wisdom generally found at the end of a post by Boomer CPO Mods = either Moderator or Modifications
  24. bongobobny
    Holy crap KIC, grab those chrome air vents!!! The aftermarket radiator cover is also a good pick...
  25. bongobobny
    Whatever that thing is, it's not stock!!! Follow the wires and see where they go. My best guess, looking at the wire colors, is something for a trailer hookup. Also looks like you have the battery warning light mod done, it would be a resistor under the shrink wrap goi8ng from the sensor line to the battery line. That Odessey battery will serve you well!!
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