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Marcarl

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Everything posted by Marcarl

  1. From your description I don't see how you would have damaged the needle screw or the carb threads,,, maybe you got a piece of metal stuck where it shouldn't be.
  2. When I bring stuff to my shop, first thing they do is to plug in the code reader,, and then go from there. One shop charges me $60 for that service and $90 hr there after, the other shop charges nothing for the reader but then charges $50 there after,,,, go figure,,, guess who gets my business.
  3. Or you could use side cutters to get them out. Jaws of side cutter at top and bottom of screw, pinch down real hard to get some bite and then turn left. Trick taught to me by Muffinman.
  4. Now you guys went and HYJACKED this thread,,,, did you get the help you needed D4klutz?
  5. As mentioned tire pressure is of choice. I run an 8" tire on my trailer with about 15lb pressure and the center is wearing out of the tread, indicates that I could run less pressure, but I do want to keep enough in there to hold the bead. It's important to have both tires at the same pressure, otherwise one will drag a little and so cause problems. It's also important, as mentioned, to realize you are towing a trailer and to not to overdo it, keep your speed down, 60mph is plenty fast when it comes to making an unexpected maneuver, so much so that a slight tweak at the front can have drastic results 12' behind.
  6. Prayers for you,, that the surgery will be helpful.
  7. Our prayer is for all of you to receive the comfort that only He can give.
  8. Now that's a Spyder,, real nice!!!
  9. Well if there is fuel coming out of those tubes,, that's a good place to start to fix. Run some Seafoam, and see if that helps,,, a whole can in half a tank or less might do it for you. The float valves are sticking or you have some dirt in the needle of the valve,,,, worst case scenario would be a bad float, but do the cleanup job first and then see.
  10. I guess the first thing that has me stumped is your comment about fuel coming out of the overflow,,, can you explain that a bit?
  11. The little tab goes at about the 1 o'clock position, with the hole at the base and outside of the slider going to the bottom.
  12. So I've contacted the BBB, and the scale manufacturer. BBB is email only, but the rep seemed to be ready to dig in,,, we'll see what happens tomorrow.
  13. Try pushing that red button a couple of times,,, it tends to get sticky, and then that overrides the direction buttons.
  14. Looks good for the sight glass part, but I would try to clean the rest of the rust out of that master, and flush lots of clean fluid through the system. Don't know what others might think of the following, but I might think of flushing the system with some brake cleaner first.
  15. Sorry about that, but I can't quite feel ya.....'pose I will when I get old and go grey, but until then you'll have to go it 'alone'!
  16. Sounds to me like I would pull that apart to find out what's causing the problem, doesn't sound like anything normal to me.
  17. I think I can,,, I think I am,,,,depends on Rockin Robin and if she remembered to check my registration.
  18. Can't you JB weld it together?
  19. Hi, anybody live in or around Fullerton California that wouldn't mind bringing a message for me? Got somebody down there that I bought a scale from for $371.00, they charged my account, but somehow didn't get the order and now they seem to be impossible to communicate with. The place is called StarLight Digital 1945 W. Commonwealth Ave Ste J Fullerton, CA 92833-3036. Let me know if you are interested. Thanks Carl
  20. My guess would be Tazmocycle
  21. I was looking the other day for diaphragms, and came up with this site, JBM Industries in Kent Ohio. So I ordered a set of 4 for sometime when I or somebody else might need some. Well, Ben (Saddlebum) now has them on his scoot and went to MD with them. He says they seem to work just fine, but then he is a diesel mechanic so what does he know about carbs. Any ways, the install is a whole easier and the science seems good to me. I have another set on the way, just in case. The web site is not very user friendly but with a little patience there is a lot of info there, and they seem to want to be helpful to us. I'll give you 2 links, one to the main page and one to another interesting page. The rubber we need is the 73mm #BS34CV Listing page: http://jbmindustries.com/Dimensions.html Home Page: http://jbmindustries.com/Yamaha650.html
  22. There you go,,, I knew it,,, and now he's proved it,,,, he's a two-timer,,,,,,,don't even know if I ever want to see him again,,, and I was sooo good to him,,,,, no more train rides with you big boy!!!!
  23. Don't worry all,,, it's not all that it's cracked up to be.
  24. Marcarl

    i give up

    Did you change the plug? Did you buy the plug from a auto parts store? Have you tried to add carb cleaner to the gas? When you have about 1 bar left on the gauge, add 1 whole can of spray carb cleaner to the tank and then let it run for about 1\2 hour. Shut it off and let it sit for some time,, over night is ok,,,, then let it run for another 1\2 hour,,, just at idle. Seems the idle circuit might be a bit dirty or plugged and running it down the road will not do much for the idle circuit,, and neither will seafoam do anything for a plugged circuit, but carb cleaner might,, but it needs to be a strong mixture.
  25. My daughter had a similar problem, but that was with a chevy. Turned out to be the wires going into the distributor, not the ones connected to the module, but the ones coming up to connecting to the module, the wire was broke inside the insulation,,,,,, but the other guys are probably more knowledgeable than I am.
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