Jump to content

V7Goose

Supporting Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,588

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. V7Goose

    carbtune

    V7Goose replied to hairman's topic in Watering Hole

    That four gauge set is what I use, and it is excellent. IMHO, FAR better than the Carbtune. I have used several Carbtunes, and they stick incessantly. One was way out of calibration, with no way to effectively fix that problem. Whatever you use, make a small manifold that allows you to hook all four together and to a single vacuum source to verify equal reading. And don't even think about trying to do a decent job with only one or two gauges - a few people will try to tell you that is fine, but ain't no way. It is even hard to get some bikes into perfect sync with four gauges where you can see all of them together - totally impossible to effectively do this with less than 4. The reality is, if you can't see them all together, you have NO idea if they really are pulling the exact same vacuum at the same time under the same conditions. And you cannot make ANY change to one that will not affect at least one of the others at the same tme. Goose
  2. V7Goose
    Just go to the Advanced Search and change default to "Find at Most" 0 replies. Don't need to enter anything else. Works fine. Goose
  3. V7Goose
    Cowboy boots are all I wear, and I have been riding with heel/toe shifters since the early 70s with ZERO problems. I know the choice of shifter types is personal, but I would NEVER accept riding with floorboards and not having a heel & toe shifter. The floor boards position the foot high enough that it is difficult for me to use the ankle to raise the toe enough to up-shift, meaning I would have to use my thigh to raise the whole leg enough while keeping my ankle stiff. In contrast, raising my heel and just sliding my foot back a hair to let it down on the shifter is effortless and natural to me. I have noticed that when downshifting through several gears I often unconsciously rest the inside of my heal on the shifting lever just above the pivot bolt. I guess this just makes it easier to keep my foot in place for the next down-shift without having to move it again. Bottom line, for ME anyway, is that I would NEVER accept a touring bike without floorboards and a heel/toe shifter, and the only boots I wear are cowboy boots. And with size 13s, I still have lots of room to move my feet around on the floorboards for different positions during a 1,000 mile day on QuickSilver! Goose
  4. V7Goose
    I used to wear a full-face, but after going to the Nolan modular helmets, I won't wear anything else. The N102 and N103 have the option to mount a headset in them without modification (and J&M makes a headset just for these that is better and cheaper than Nolan's headset). I currently wear the N102. The N103 is a newer version that moves the extra dark visor inside instead of outside the main visor. Goose
  5. V7Goose

    vibration

    V7Goose replied to yamatime's topic in Watering Hole

    You don't say what RPM you are at, but the term "crank it" sounds like hard acceleration. This engine is known to shudder and pound if you grab too much throttle at too low RPM in high gear, but it usually doesn't do that in 3rd or 4th unless you are REALLY lugging it. I'd say it is almost certain you need a carb sync (and check that all cylinders are firing correctly). Goose
  6. V7Goose
    As everyone else has said, the problem sure sounds like it was caused by the wrong oil. But if you bought Yamalube as you think, that almost certainly was oil that met JASO-MA spec for wet clutches and would NOT have caused the problem. You really need to be certain about what oil, exactly, was put in. Even using energy conserving auto oil probably swhouldn't have caused the slippage as suddenly as you describe, but I would be at a loss to suggest another cause with the information you have provided. If you did use energy conserving oil, then changing it out for JASO-MA oil may or may not solve your problem - the friction modifiers in the energy conserving oil probably will adhere to the clutch plates for quite some time, causing the slippage to remain. So here is what I suggest: First, since your bike is so new and you bought an oil specifically on the recommendation of the dealer, try to make him do whatever is necessary under warranty to stop the slippage. If for some reason you are left to fix this yourself, then changing the oil is a logical first step. If the slippage continues, you might try removing the clutch pack and thouroughly washing each plate in karosene. But the real solution would be to change out the weak stock clutch spring for a PCW Racing spring. The kit will cost you about $85 and is very easy to put in (about 20 minutes). It may seem like you shouldn't have to replace anything in the clutch so soon on yoru bike, but I personally recommend that anyone that is going to put over 30,000 miles on an RSV put in an upgraded clutch spring ASAP - you are going to have to do it sooner or later, so the sooner the better. Goose BTW - I am moving this thread to the 2nd Gen tech forum - I will leave a redirect in the Watering Hole for a week in case some folks are looking for it here.
  7. V7Goose
    Just straight Jack and ice for me, thankye. I might use a little coke to clean rust, but I sure wouldn't drink the stuff!
  8. V7Goose
    I stick to beer when I have the tools out - the good stuff is for bench racing after all the wrenching is done!
  9. V7Goose
    Simply do a Google search for PCW Racing and give them a call. Tell them you want a clutch spring upgrade kit. He'll offer you the standard kit or one with all new clutch plates too. IMHO you don't need to waste the money on the new plates. I just ordered a standard kit for my brother's RSV - cost $85.85 delivered. Takes about 20 minutes to put in. Goose
  10. V7Goose
    Just makin' an offer here - If there are a couple of members that want to get together at my place near the DFW airport to do a little maintenance, we can do kind of a mini carb clinic. Things like set float levels, sync and fuel mixture. Synching carbs only takes 10 minutes or so, but if we set float levels that would be 3-5 hours, depending on drinking and bench racing time. I enjoy working on bikes, and especially with good company. I suggested a couple of members just because I'd like to maximize the efficiency - we could do two or three bikes at the same time, but not much more than that. All you need to bring is some beer and a willingness to work. I'm not offering to be your mechanic, just help you and provide some experience (but if you want someone to do it for you instead of with you, we can negotiate a fair charge)! Just lemme know if anyone is interested, Goose Oh, I also have a standing offer to help members change tires . . .
  11. V7Goose
    The float issue is that they are all set too high. On the three RSVs I have personally done, all the floats were set close to the same level, but all were way too high. I have heard from several others that they found the same thing. I have yet to hear from anyone who checked the float levels on a 2nd gen and didn't find them high. This is not scientific, of course, but that at least suggests that the problem might be common. And it might also explain the very common complaint of poor fuel mileage on these bikes. Goose
  12. V7Goose

    repair work

    V7Goose replied to Dav's topic in Watering Hole

    Yeah, it is kinda hard to figure out what think is wrong. There aren't any hoses up there at all except the overflow tubes, but you couldn't see those unless you already had the tank and air plenums off. The air filters feed two large plastic tanks above the carbs (the things I call "air plenums"), and these tanks are connected to the top of the carbs by short rubber tubes. The entire air intake above the carbs is relatively easy to dismantle with the tank off, but watch those hose clamps holding the the intake on the top of the carbs - the screws are REAL soft and often stick. I have had the philips head screws strip out quickly on several bikes. Goose
  13. V7Goose
    First, running 4th like that will hurt nothing at all, but no way should you ever have to! 5th gear is great for cruising from 45 on up, but you really need to be at least 60 before you try and jerk the throttle open or it will hammer and shake a bit until the RPMs get up. But if you have trouble holding 75 MPH in 5th gear, no mater what the conditions, you have a serious problem. Sounds to me like you are only running on three cylinders. Goose Oh, BTW - I weigh 240 alone, do a lot of touring two-up and loaded to the gills (sometimes hauling a trailer too), and I have NEVER ever had any problem holding 85 in 5th, no matter what winds or mountains. In fact, I have never even had the throttle held wide open unless I was passing and the needle was pegged.
  14. V7Goose
    There are two relatively simple things you can do to see if all plugs are firing without any special equipment or technical testing. First, withing about 30 seconds of starting the engine, briefly touch the header pipe near each exhaust valve (the real pipe, not the heat shield). You will be able to tell instantly if one of them is not heating up like the others. If that test shows all seem to be firing, but you still suspect some type of intermittent coil that isn't pulling its weight, pull the plugs and read them. None of them should be wet at all, and if they are all the same color, they are all firing the same (and the fuel mixture is the same). If one or two look significantly different, then you can do a bit more research on possible causes. Goose
  15. V7Goose
    Riding with high beams on with oncoming traffic is not only obnoxious and insensitive, it is dangerous to EVERYONE on the road - even the people who do it. It is also illegal in every venue. And it is illegal for a reason - it is dangerous and wrong. No matter how much you try to rationalize it, you are putting other people in danger, and it is wrong. The most unfortunate thing is that so few police actually try to enforce the laws against it. I guess that is because it is difficult for them to prove. I know I'm not going to change anyone's mind, but I really wish everyone would show a little more courtesy to others and stop the "I'll do what I want and screw you" attitudes we see so often. OK, now that I have said my piece I'll shut up. I won't inflame this thread any more than I already have by responding to any other posts or responses. Please ride safe, Goose
  16. V7Goose
    The thread is in both the 2ng Gen tech talk forum AND the tech library. A search on float level finds it. Here is the link: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24246
  17. V7Goose
    I use the ShowChrome radiator cover and like it. I have put several on, and it will fit any RSV. The tabs do need to be bent to align with the bolts, and the installation can be difficult. Biggest problem is getting the lower bolts back in - sometimes they don't align well with the holes. Take your time and think about what might need to be shifted to make the alignment. Goose
  18. V7Goose
    I do not believe there is a rebuild kit available for these carbs, but that is immaterial to your problem. Fuel overflow is ONLY related to the functioning of the float and float valve. There was another recent thread on this subject where I provided detailed suggestions, so I won't repeat them here. In short, you need to pull the carb assembly, inspect the float valve needle and seat, and properly set the float level. Your problem will be fixed. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    That bike just has character - the VMax is absolutely the ugliest bike ever! Even much worse than the old Suzuki Wankel! Goose
  20. V7Goose
    This is not a good idea, for several reasons. First: Light fixtures and lens/reflector designs are different for LEDs compared to incandescent bulbs. Regular bulbs emit light in all directions, and a fixture must redirect and focus that light in the specific direction and pattern needed for where the fixture is mounted. LEDs typically emit light in only one direction, so the existing lens does a terrible job with it. Even the LED "bulbs" made with LEDs pointing all over the place to mimic a normal bulb do a poor job in many fixtures. Second: Our specific tail light mounts the bulb at an angle. All LED replacement "bulbs" are designed to either point straight out from the socket or at a 90 degree angle from the socket. Neither is acceptable for this fixture. Third: Most LED replacement "bulbs" are not as bright as incandescent bulbs. This is quickly changing, but you can rarely be sure of what you are getting in this respect. Plus, see the two problems listed above that make the brightness problem even worse. Fourth: Your tail light must emit white light straight up to illuminate the license plate. Again, this will be a big problem for just about any LED "bulb" in this fixture. Read more about it here: http://www.superbrightleds.com/carbulb-notes.htm BTW - I have done a lot of business with Superbrightleds.com, and I find their prices and service excellent. Goose
  21. V7Goose
    Waitaminut - lemme wipe this stuff off my shoe . . . Ya know, I was certain that bike couldn't get any uglier - I was wrong.
  22. V7Goose
    Wrong. The RSV starts and runs fine on the side stand. The switch only comes into play when the bike is in gear. But if any of the various interlock switches are defective in some way, or if a wire is shorted out, it certainly can interrupt the ignition circuit; that is why I pointed out the two test that anyone can perform to quickly see the difference between how the bike feels if it is starving for fuel or if the ignition is cutting out. Goose
  23. V7Goose
    Like I said in the first post, nothing wrong with those that just show up to meet and visit (or even to go ride). Last year the majority of folks who came were not there to work on bikes. But some are. I am not sure how to give anyone "a little more time to ride and visit." There are just 24 hours in a day, and you are free to use all 24 hours to ride and visit with anyone else who wants to do the same. This isn't supposed to be a rally, so we are not trying to plan for rally type activities. For those of you who want more time to visit, why don't you just plan on showing up a day early or staying another day? That's the only way I know to add time. And feel free to make your own plans for rides and whatever else you want. But for those that actually want a little help on some maintenance tasks on maintenance day (NOT major mechanical work!), I'd like to help as many as we can. That's why I wanted to get a handle on the various desires and expectations. I look forward to seeing y'all there, Goose
  24. V7Goose
    This is a great start on a list of things to do. Carb sync can be done anywhere, so we'll set up an area to line up outside the garage for that. Last year I spent hours just being grabbed and taken from one bike to the next to sync 'em up. That worked, but it was almost impossible to keep track of everyone tugging on my sleeve asking to be next! That's why I'd like to set up a focal pointng for that specific task. And a carb sync doesn't require any prep other than having the engine warm, so we can get started as soon as folks start lining up. Tire changes and a few other things require a bike lift on concrete, so we can have two lines going for those (assuming we have two lifts again). Some other things, like plug and fluid changes and electrical work can be done anywhere, but being in a garage and near tools is nice, so we'll play that by ear depending on how many workers we have and how many things are on the list as time gets closer. Goose
  25. V7Goose
    This is probably a bit early, since maintenance day is still so many months off, but maybe we can start the discussions now and just bump the thread later as the date gets closer? I do not want to over-complicate things, but it seemed to me that we could have gotten a lot more done last year with just a little more organization - we spent half the day just milling around before we even started work! Of course, not everyone was there to work on bikes. I think that, at most, 1/3 of the attendees actually wanted to do that - the rest were just there to meet and socialize. Nothing wrong with that, but if we missed out on some who really needed something done, I'm sorry. I'd like to start collecting a wish-list of what folks would like to do this year. Just post away here. Maybe we can group them into three or four main tracks for us to organize around on THE day. For example, one item I KNOW will be a main track is carb syncing; always lots of interest in having that done. I am not sure what other subjects will be of primary interest this year. Another item I can suggest might be tires - I know Don has a tire changer, and I am happy to change or balance tires. If you think you need new skins around that time, either bring 'em or drop-ship them to Don's and we can get 'er done at no cost to you. So that's a start - let's hear what else you might be thinking about for maintenance day. Goose
×
×
  • Create New...