sargergp
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Posts
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Yes, I have the manual and I printed the test pages for the coils. That is where I was referring to regarding the lack of information about reconnecting the primary wires before testing the secondary. It just says to test the secondary from the ignition wire to the frame of the coil. But as my updated post says, the factory rep says this was a change in the coil for the Venture that was left out of the manual. That's why it confused me.
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updated info edited to original post.
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I'm spending a little time tinkering and tuning while I'm recovering from a knee surgery and discovered something really strange. While testing my coils according to the manual you unplug the primary wires and test the primary first and then then test the secondary. My discovery is that unless I reconnect the primary wires before testing the secondary I get an open circuit reading on the secondary. I've never seen this before on any coil. The two windings should be completely separate from each other. When tested with the primary wires connected I get the proper reading on all secondaries. I talked to a technician at the dealership where I bought it and he thinks I'm right but he is going to call their techline in the morning and get back with me on it. I'm just wondering if anyone on here has experience with these coils and whether I'm right or not. If I'm right I have some bad coils. OK everyone, here's the latest from the factory rep. The manual doesn't mention that on the Venture the secondary winding of the coil doesn't get it's ground from the coil frame, instead it gets it from the negative terminal which means the primary wires, or at least the negative wire from the harness must be connected to get a proper reading on the secondary winding. I just got the return phone call from the dealership technician. He said he was happy to check on this for me because it would be helpful to him as well.
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I know what you mean about a big head, I wear a 7 3/4 hat. I live in Texas and wear open face in the summer and full face/modular flip up in the cooler months. Both of mine are Fulmers and I love them. It's the only brand I have been able to find either that were big enough in the 2XL to be comfortable. But you can only purchase them in person at a dealer. They don't sell mail order or on the internet at all. My modular cost me about $150 and the open face cost me $80. You can however view them on the Fulmer web site.
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Hey Steve, I have the black one off my '05 that I replace with the chrome one. It's in perfect condition. If you need another one for any reason, let me know you can have if you'll cover the shipping cost. Roy
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Steve, if you haven't found one yet, I just got a notice this evening from my ebay adds list that someone has a front seat and rear seat (pillow top) for sale separately on ebay for $89 each. Good luck
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I second this suggestion. I just bought a pair of lined chaps from leatherup.com a couple of months ago. The fit is true as long as you follow their suggestion to buy one size larger than you normally wear in pants. They are excellent quality and much cheaper than I found anywhere in the stealerships.
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I ordered it direct from Morgan in Belfast, Ireland. The transaction was the best I've ever done with anyone. I paid online with credit card and it was in my mailbox nine days later. Ordered it with the case to store everything in and at the current exchange rate with the conversion fee it cost me a total of $95. That's about equal to what it would cost to have the sync done one time at a dealer.
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Well, for those of you who were watching this thread before, heres a new post. The carb sync worked great and with the new tires to get rid of the tar snake/line seam wiggles the wife is finally happy with the ride again. But as some of you have seen in my post in the tech forum, it appears that I still have problems, most likely either floats or coil or both. It just don't purr like a V4 should (and I wear hearing aids) and the mileage seems to be worse than before. Well, I'm too hard headed to give up on it and too tight to take it to the stealer until I know for certain if it's warranty or not. So I'll just keep testing as time allows and I'll keep you guys posted on the progress. Has anyone had good luck using the colortune system? I'm not new to mechanics, but I'm still a little wet behind the ears on motorcycles.
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Thanks Squeeze. I had the evens and odds grouped, just got the engine backwards. #2 & #4 were slow with #4 being the slowest. I've just gotta find more time to finish my tests.
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Ok, I went out and started her up and checked the exhaust warm up. I found out that both front cylinders were slower to warm up than the rears and the right front (#3 if memory serves me right) was slowest of all. After about 3 minutes of idling I could also detect a small difference in the rythym of the pipes from one side to the other. I guess from here I will proceed with checking the plugs and testing the coils. If I find a considerable diffence in the coil on #3 they are covered by the warranty aren't they?
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Thanks Goose, I don't why I didn't think of that already. Just gotten too used to working with fuel injection and diesels at work on the job I guess. I used to use that method to check older cars all the time. I'll give it a try. I did find your post about float levels not being equal on these bikes. Is it fairly common to see that problem?
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It's a '05 midnight RSV.
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Ok guys, I've searched and searched threads on this site and have gotten some good ideas (like setting the floats from V7Goose), but one thing I suspect and haven't been able to find any info on is testing procedures for the coils. The problem is after syncing the carbs my gas mileage went down and it still seems like the cylinders aren't all firing evenly. It's got new plugs in it (original NGK#) and all vacuum lines and plugs are good. I also run a can of Sea Foam regularly. Can anyone help with more suggestions?
