Jump to content

bkuhr

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    951

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by bkuhr

  1. bkuhr
    Ohms Law circle http://www.hvacwebtech.com/images/pie.gif
  2. bkuhr
    :sign yeah that:Made same mistake on 1st gen, had little arm/link wrong direction on splined shaft
  3. bkuhr
    Just a guess, but 1156 turn bulb are rated at 6.0 Ohm, and pull a load of 2amps per bulb on a 12v circuit. (ex: left turn front and rear bulb=4amps, 4way hazard=8amps) Your equalizer is pulling 1.6 amps per bulb(ex:left turn front and rear bulb=3.2amps,4way hazard-6.4amps) I would guess that the turn flasher, which used a thermal bi-metal contact requires almost all of the designed 4 amps, and 3.2 amps is not enough. The Hazard is a different flasher and seems ok with 6.4 to 8 amps). Suggestion would be to replace turn flasher with a different one that requires lower load, maybe the same part number used on VStar, maybe generic 2 pin flasher from autoparts, could also consider solid state flasher that would not require any load resistors. Finally could use different load resistors. Superbrightled.com has some here http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Ftail-brake-turn.html%23flasher Just looked at Superbrightled.com again and they have the solid state flashers at same link above. This would be my first option, as you would not need load resisters at all and you "give back" 4 amps of power to your bikes electrical system to be used for other toys.
  4. bkuhr
    Suspect loose or corroded connection, motion of 'changing fuse' jiggles wires enough to make the connection. Disconnect wires at battery, sand lugs and posts, and reassemble tightly.
  5. bkuhr
    Lot of Boot Strechers on eBay, #190503501480 insteam riser looks promising http://cgi.ebay.com/Mens-Western-Boot-INSTEP-RAISER-SHOE-STRETCHER-FREE-/190503501480?
  6. bkuhr
    the "link below" must be the same place as the ebay link:witch_brew:
  7. bkuhr
    Had a giggle. Last time I worked on igniters, it was on turbine helicopter engines-interesting idea, turbine engine on a venture The ignition system on the 83 venture is called a TCI (Transistor Controlled Ignition), as stated above only the 83 TCI will work properly (without mods) on the 83 venture, but your intermittant problem sounded to me like be it may be diode related, and there is a repair for the diode problem the you could complete inexpensively. Start with this thread http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51767&highlight=diode
  8. bkuhr
    Heres what I got http://www.harborfreight.com/13-piece-high-visibility-12-drive-deep-wall-metric-impact-socket-set-67904.html Covered all the VR bases so far, including fork caps, axle nuts, etc.
  9. bkuhr
    Years July 1 falls on a Friday-to get 5 fridays in a month 2011, 2016 (leap year), 2022, 2033, 2039, 2044 (leap year), 2050, 2061, 2067, 2072 (leap year), 2078, 2089, 2095, 2101, 2107, 2112 (leap year), 2118, 2129 Does this solves the 823 year $ troubles?
  10. bkuhr
    TIRE SPOON: A tool to pop out of a half mounted tire, flying into the head, to much blood in the eyes to find the SON-OF-A-B*^%H TOOL. Just done it:crying:
  11. bkuhr
    Sounds like you already isolated intermitant problem to starter switch. I would recommend disassembly and cleaning- watch for small parts, get all the old grease out.
  12. bkuhr
    Keeping in mind that #2 coil feed is also feed for the tach, and I think maybe the fuel pump control on the 85, there may be partial (high resistance) short to ground-likely thru a component.(wire shorts are typically hard shorts) Fuel pump seems to work, but tach does not, may suspect defective tach circuitry. Since you seem willing to dismantle the dash-"to check for stuck needle", I would disconnect the grey wire from the rear of the dash tach, isolate with tape, and do your voltage checks again at the TCI
  13. bkuhr
    reinvolved in electronics after longgg hiatus
  14. bkuhr
    :sign yeah that:I loved my Mil issue Nomex Flight gloves- very thin deer hide on palm and finger bottoms, stretchy nomex top. Fit like a glove-no pun-fit like second skin, and nimble enough to work small screws, etc. Not sure where to get them any more though.
  15. bkuhr
    I agree, took some time with your helper:whistling:, but looks like you did a good job.
  16. bkuhr

    tires

    bkuhr replied to warriorhoneybee's topic in Watering Hole

    Just received E3 to the door $117 and date 4510 from Dennis Kirk
  17. bkuhr
    I think there is only a timing mark for #1, as I scribed marks for 2-3-4 when I did mine. As I recall your start valves at #1 then count deg of rotation ( wierd #s in book but correct) for subsequent valves- and don't forget, rotation is CCW on the left side
  18. bkuhr
    Who knows what a PO did, possible coil primarys are plugged up wrong(little yellow connectors at the coils), could verify wire color per schematic to verify correct primary to correct coil. Warning- very hard to get to- remove battery and get good light and inspection mirror. Also verify correct coil secondary spark lead to correct cylinder at this time. If ALL plastic is off, should see coils easy. Number connectors 1-2-3-4 to aviod future confusion. I have also had problems with resistor caps- but you say you have good spark.
  19. bkuhr
    With tire changer I made. Have had for long time auto changer simular or same as HF. pic 1 Only permement mod was to weld a 5/8 nut to top. pic 2 Cut hex to fit 5/8 nut in 1/4 plate and welded to old 14-15 auto rim(anti rotation). pic 3 Just set rim over nut on stand. pic 4 Tread 5/8 all thread into nut to tight(notice hole at top for screwdriver shaft). pic 5 Another piece of 1/4 plate with 5/8 hole and 5/8 jam nut secures auto rim to stand. pic 6 Split rubber tube on edge of auto rim protects MC wheel. pic 7 MC wheel placed down all tread. pic 8 5/8 washer and another nut secures MC wheel to auto rim/stand. pic 9 Piece of plastic water pipe protects all thread-threads when tire spoons pried against. pic 10 Final view. pic 11 Also built balancer with lumber. Appears to work, same spot of existing tire/wheel always stops same. Now I just need to commit to do it.
  20. bkuhr
    Aside from the battery, I would be very concerned about the starter brushes. If the starter windings survived the heat of the long run, the brushes are probably very well worn down, and I would recommend at the minimum, a disassembly inspection, with thoughts toward brush replacement. Running a starter with worn out brushes WILL destroy an otherwise servicable communitators (armature)
  21. bkuhr
    I remember what the 'special' trailer is for, should be able to modify the topper for 'the tail' I have about 10 20% off harbor freight coupons cut out of paper-if you would like one-PM
  22. bkuhr
    Well, looks like all except trailer can be done 5.3 hours, 2 nights, and 3 beers. trailer adds 348.6hours and 53sec
  23. bkuhr
    double check your meter is set to read AC volts, 20vac could read a fluxuation 4vdc. also do the ohm tests before you condem the stator
  24. bkuhr
    Just to clarify a point, the ohm and ground test between stator coils is completed with the 3 white wire connector opened up. You are testing the connector to the front toward that stator cover. The rear connector goes to the regulator/rectifier mounted inside rear swing arm. If you are backstabbing pins with the connector together, you are also reading thru the regulator/rectifier and the readings are useless. Never tried to check AC voltage with connector opened up, but magnetic field ac generator- it should work and show the +-20VAC Dingy stated between each white wire. As a possible test assuming you have the 20vac with connector open, backstab the pins with the connector connected to the regulator/rectifier, (never make or break this connector with motor running) and the 20vac should be unchanged, if 1 or more white wires drops the 20vac a siginificant amount, may indicate a shorted rectifier diode
  25. bkuhr
    On my 750 I had a stator with shorted windings (not to ground). Book called for, I think point4(.4) ohms per winding, and I had about .2 per. At first though tolerance error, but after replacing everything else, it was a bad stator. Not sure what book for 83 calls for, might be the same (.4), but as frankd said, ohm out your windings and right them down. First read your meter with leads shorted to each other, and subtract any lead reading from winding readings(3 white wires to each other). BTW, need decent quality digital ohm meter for this test. If readings about ok, check connector (3 white wires) real good for burning/overheating-corrosion. There is a test in the book for testing the diode(rectifier)section of the voltage rectifier/regulator, but there is no test for the regulator section. Kind of expensive, need to eliminate everything else before buying one, and may start with battery, as yours is likely on last leg.
×
×
  • Create New...