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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    Look at the wrench that is scanned, then the wrench that is produced. The new one has a D ring in the handle. Gary
  2. dingy
    Let's review, A 23 year old motorcycle (notoriously dependable one though) A car, bus & train journey. Bought on Ebay from a person you didn't know existed until that Submit Bid button hit. Hopefully the pictures weren't from a hundred feet back. I appreciate a fellow human being that trusts their fellow man. (At least till Thursday afternoon) Gary
  3. dingy
    I have a 12 Technical Bulletins and do not see any thing about the bent shaft. Probably more, but this is all I have located. Think they are all 1st gen related. Gary
  4. dingy
    Oh, Bobby, you mentioned this a couple of months ago when I was searching for a rotor for my VMax rear wheel project. I ended up getting one from digitaldemise (ebay name). They said they were getting out of the salvage business, BTW. Gary
  5. dingy
    Where you reading AC or DC volts? If you were reading AC voltage at the battery, ypu probably have a shorted diode in the Rectifier. You must have had the battery disconnected to read that high a voltage? I see what you may be referring to in the service manual about the voltage, if I am correct, they are referring to a battery charger output and varying the chargers setting. See the 1st picture, 1st block on the right side, 'By turning the charging voltage...." 2nd & 3rd pictures are checking charging system 4th picture is specs for the R/R. Nothing I am seeing indicates an acceptable voltage above 14.8vdc. I am looking at the RSV manual. Gary
  6. dingy
    There are some differences from the 83 to the 86. Rear luggage & racks totally different Front forks brakes & rotors different. Rear brakes & rotor different. Both brake masters. Carbs. Engine block & pistons. Maybe the rear shock. Wiring harness. Most of the electrical controls. Probably instrument cluster. These are the main ones that come to mind. Gary
  7. dingy

    Carbs

    dingy replied to Sailor's topic in Watering Hole

    Fairly common on the 1st gens. It would take a lot to get all the way through, this is tough rubber. If you are concerned, start bike and spray WD40 on cracked area and see if RPM picks up, if it does, they are cracked all the way through. Gary
  8. dingy
    I don't think you can rotate the rotors 90 degrees, you have 60, 120 or 180 choices due to 6 bolt pattern Just that you may confuse the heck out of someone trying to do that. Gary
  9. dingy
    Why can't a right rotor be mounted on the left side and keep the slot orientation? What is the difference between them. These are not offset rotors like the MKII rear. The service manual does note the R & L designation though in the brake section. Just looked at front MKII rotor I put on rear wheel of my bike and I think it is a left rotor on the right side. Mounts up and centers perfectly. Gary
  10. dingy
    What is your cruise doing/not doing. Any symptoms you can give will help narrow down solutions. Gary
  11. dingy
    I made these up for my 83, little farther forward than the guard mounted style & more rigid. Gary
  12. dingy
    Interesting, the MKI cost $25 to ship and the MKII costs $110 to ship. Gary
  13. dingy
    Below is a thread I started last year and a seemingly permanent fix (maybe) for the side stand bolt, at least on the 1st gens. I don't think this will work on the 2nd gens. Different bolt P/N in parts fiche. Takes a little work to get done, but it is a better overall solution. The Yamaha design is inherently weak with the shoulder style bolt. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48342 Gary
  14. dingy
    The special screw drivers mentioned above are technically called JIS screwdrivers. Primarily we need the phillips type driver. Only place I could find them at was McMaster-Carr. Went to 4 auto supply stores, Sears, Harbor Freight, Lowes & Home Depot, none had them http://www.mcmaster.com/#jis-%28japanese-industrial-standard%29-screwdrivers/=d703y3 I got the 3 piece set for $26, plus a reasonable shipping amount. I had them in 2 days I think. 3-Piece Standard Screwdriver Set—Includes tip sizes #1, #2, and #3. Per Set 53325A61$25.95 After using them, I don't know why I waited so long to get them. They have a much better grip on the screw than American standard phillips. Gary
  15. dingy
    Larry, Wouldn't the air bubble tend to rise to the top of the caliper piston pocket? The way the bleeder ports are laying at about a 45 deg downward angle. 1st picture below. Imagine the entire caliper and arm rotated around the axle center line to where it is at the top of rotor. Then the bleeders are at the top of the piston pocket. 2nd picture is of swing arm on bench upside down. The bleeders are seen here. Torque arm not yet attached or mount welded on. 3rd picture is with torque arm attached. I don't think a speed bleeder would make a difference. Could be wrong though. I am very happy with ANY suggestions though. Gary
  16. dingy
    This may be an off the wall thing to check, look at the plug from the stator to the wiring harness. It's a 3 pin plug, 2 pins over 1 pin configuration. Also look at the rectifier to harness plug, 6 pin plug 2 x 3 configuration. I just found something tonight at Radio Shack that could help clean connectors some. It is an Abrasive Fiberglass Pen. It has a brush that comes out the tip that is small enough to get into the male pin side of a connector and clean contacts. Can't get into female side though. I had these when I worked on railroad and they were handy to clean contacts. $7 Gary
  17. dingy
    I wonder how many clutches and engine guards they went through getting to that skill level. You can hear them dragging some. Hell, I couldn't even remember the course pattern. Gary
  18. dingy
    It could, but it may also be slowly vibrating out and take some time to clear. If you ride it with starter engaged, the starter will be destroyed. Bearings can not take the stress. It might also be the starter engagement clutch and rollers behind the flywheel is not releasing right. Haven't had this issue, but I remember some related posts about it. Gary
  19. dingy
    The RSV is a nice machine. If it suits you, excellent. Us 1st gen guys got to amuse ourselves somehow. Nice thing about having a 20 year old bike is we don't really have to spend so much time polishing the chrome and such. People expect just a little less show from a 2 decade old bike. In reality, I like the standard footpeg setup and the frame mounted fairing on the 1st gen compared to the 2nd gen. The 2nd gen would be more difficult to get the performance out of it and still maintain the appearence, due to the VMax heads would be fugly on the RSV. The 1st gen is also a unique looking bike, I know one from a hundred yards away. To me, I see nothing that stands an RSV out from an HD aside from side view of motor. Going down the road and passing an oncoming bike, I don't have a clue if it was an RSV. Gary
  20. dingy
    Check the start switch on right handle bar. May be dirty and not releasing. Link below is how to properly clean it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43027 Gary
  21. dingy
    Attached pdf is from the 86-93 service manual.Pay attention to all of page 3-69 and especially item #6 on page 3-70. Maybe this will help some, not sure. The plates and friction discs do have a little bit of wiggle to them when they are slid into the basket. Another occasional problem is the clutch bearing (item #8), they are known to fail. When you put friction discs back in, line up the notches on the plates in the stack. Can be seen in very top right segment of clutch pack in picture. The long clutch push rod goes in with the dimpled end towards the clutch side. Do not over tighten clutch spring hex head screws (6 of them) something like 5.8 ft lbs. Over tighten and you will get experience with an easy out. Check steel plates for any signs of overheating or bluing. Check friction discs are within thickness spec of .114"-.122". Rarely go bad though. Gary
  22. dingy
    I really don't know what it would take to do the work on an RSV. Other than what the service manual shows. The cut attached is from the manual for the 13TFL model. Looks fairly easy, but I have never done it to a 2nd gen bike. Gary
  23. dingy
    Jack, You bought one of my wrenches last year. Don't resort to doing it the amateur way and beating on your motorcycle with a hammer & screwdriver. Say it ain't so, you have the tool !! Unless you lost it, in which case I have a replacement. 1st gen or 2nd ? Gary
  24. dingy
    I did use a front rotor from an MKII, think it was an 88. It matched the look of the front rotors I had on with the cooling slots in the pad area. 282mm dia. Same as a VMax rear rotor. Little different thickness than the VMax, think it is 1mm thicker. All the 1st gen VMax rear brake & wheel parts are essentially the same. None of the parts I used are from the same year VMax. Pistons are close to an MKI 1st gen. It uses a two piston caliper. My original intent was to use a 12.7mm vmax rear master, but I could not get the one I had to bleed the system, probably plugged small hole in it. I had to make an adapter plate to get it to mount in place. I will revisit using the VMax master at some point after riding it and getting a feel for the rear brakeing power. The smaller VMax master will increase PSI at calipers a bunch. I ended up using the MKII master I had on last year. Way to big of a bore dia. I think though, around 17.5mm. I could not mount the caliper in the 'normal' position as it would have interfered with the saddle bags. I had to modify the torque arm a lot to get it to work. Shortened it about 4 inches and bent a curve in it. The torque arm was hitting the casting on the caliper bracket when I swung it around 180 deg from its designed position. I welded a mounting tab to the swing arm in the area where the gussets are for the shock mount, I wanted to keep this new tab short, so I had to put bend in torque arm to get stuff to line up. Caliper mount bracket was narrowed by about .62" at the axle line boss on the outboard side. There was still plenty of material left that I feel it is still safe. At this point I have a VMax brake line on it, but will get a S.S. steel line once I see if I like this setup. Nothing I did would prevent me from going back to the MKII setup I put on last year. The main disadvantage of the caliper being mounted below swing arm is location of bleeders. They are now on the bottom of the caliper. I unbolted caliper from mount arm and set it in intended position on top of rotor and bled it, then remounted it at its new home. Twigg mentioned about tapping caliper for new bleeders, that might be possible. The existing bleeders are tapped into bosses on the casting now and there wouldn't be a place to do that though. Also the VMax caliper has two bleeder screws, one on each side of caliper. the inboard one would be almost impossible to get to if it were to be relocated. I only figure I would bleed brakes at the most once a year so I will put up with this setup. Gary
  25. dingy
    Here is one. http://www.customdynamics.com/motorcycle_brake_light_flasher.htm Gary
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