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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    I feel your pain on the losing a write up. I have been there done that. I now copy the longer ones I do once in a while to a text file and keep it on my desktop till I get done. It's annoying to try and do it over. Very nice job on this one. Gary
  2. dingy
    It isn't the voltage that will get you, it's that tiny bit of current that will stop your heart. I had an old timer on the railroad show me something that I thought he was crazy when he did it. I worked in signal dept. and one of the things we always had to do when we were done working in an equipment case was to verify the A.C. power was back on. Going to have to go out to my truck when he was with me one time to get meter to make the check. He said don't bother and with one hand latched onto the 110 AC buss. Nothing happened, he looked at me and said power was on. After explaining to me about only using one hand and not touching metal or anything with other hand, I tried it. It was only a moderate tingling sensation. I knew power was on because I could hear the battery rectifiers humming. Since then I have done this quite a bit. I also have several tools that have deep burn marks in them by bridging the same AC circuits, low resistance in the metal is what makes the difference. It is just a matter of the high resistance in the hand and not just lightly touching the terminals, because the initial 'shock' will cause you to jerk back. This same thing can be fatal if tried with one hand on each leg of the AC due to current then passing through the heart. Never attempted on anything other than 110VAC. Also the safety book frowned upon this. I have worked with 17,000 live and am very respectful of electricity, just don't fear it. It isn't that all different than plumbing in the sense of flow and pressure compared to current and voltage. Gary
  3. dingy
    Don't have an RSV, but if it like the 1st gen, the negative cable will attach to the motor block on the right front side. 1st gen uses one of the bolts that hold case together. Probably be near your brake pedal/master cylinder area. This is just a guesstimate till someone that knows what they are talking about can reply. Gary
  4. dingy
    Outside chance the bleeder screw was loose and the bleeding process fixed this. Gary
  5. dingy
    I have one from a 83 bike that only has the neutral pin on it. Same size & shape, but only 1 contact. You can have it pretty cheap if you want it. Gary
  6. dingy
    OK, for anybody that gives a rodents rectum, this is what speedy looked liked when I called it quits tonight. Over the 4th weekend I got the VMax rear wheel & brake setup in place. That was a lot of McGyvering. I don't think this type of mount has ever been done on a Venture, had to go where it is to clear saddle bags and frame. Front R1 brakes are in place. Exhaust, radiator, gas tank & rear sub frame got mounted today. Mr Percocet was involved in my doing all this. Back is painful but I am going to ride this sucker before my surgery, and pending divorce if I do accomplish this. It should have been done two months ago. Gary
  7. dingy
    CLASS stands for 'Computer Leveling Air Suspension System' It is the on board air compressor and controls that royales came with. Gary
  8. dingy
    Jeff, Would check if I could, bike is on center stand for a few more days to a week. I don't think I could get it back a center stand if I took it off to get measurements for you. Don't know if it will help any, but attached is a picture of bike on side stand in my garage. This was without progressive springs or any real modifications to it at the time picture was taken. 1st picture is of current 83 on side stand. 2nd picture is of my 1984 MKI on side stand. Both of them have a pretty good lean to them. Gary
  9. dingy
    Attached is an excel spread sheet that was started by lilbeaver and I expanded on the concept. It is set up when opened for a 1st gen Venture with a Venture final drive and a 140/90-16 rear tire. Any of the tan fields can be modified to see what different parameters would do. Gary
  10. dingy
    I'll send you a picture you can look at while you are there, about the best I can do !! Gary
  11. dingy
    Some pictures of the indicator. It is behind the middle drive cover, and back in about 5". In 1st picture lower left is the gear shift shaft that sticks through the stator cover. You don't have to remove stator cover to get at it. It has 6 wires going into it. Grounds each wire as shift cam is rotated. Last picture shows pin on shift cam that makes a contact to ground. Gary
  12. dingy
    But it got the point across, now we can be more helpful without having to look at his profile to see if he has a moped or a Venture. Gary
  13. dingy
    I actually have a good spare fan, if you want it I will part with it. Make me an offer. I even tested it today. Shipping to Canada takes a while. Specially after they just got off a strike. You can figure out how you would want it shipped. I don't deliver that far. Zip code is 44905, Mansfield Ohio. Gary
  14. dingy

    Speedometer

    dingy replied to Barlow's topic in Watering Hole

    You can use the 83 to 85 speedometer in your MKII cluster housing, it will fit. I swapped out the tach & speedo head on my 83 when I put the 88 cluster in. I wanted to keep the mileage accurate as far as an honest title report. As you said the graphics on the face were changed. The only difference in the tach head, other than graphics, I have seen is a cruise equipped bike had a light in the tach face for a couple of years. Might have been the 86-87 models, but I am not sure. At some point they went to the housing that surrounds the key switch for the cruise indicators and eliminated the tach face light. Gary
  15. dingy
    The secret to check them often. If loose, screw them in some more. Gary
  16. dingy
    And while you are at it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58880 Gary
  17. dingy
    At least one, maybe two members has one on the single pickup coil 90-93 bikes. One was saltcreep. Takes a different setup file when it is programmed. Ignitech supplies a harness that mates from the module to your bike, this harness will vary on the bike. It would also work on an RSV if someone wanted to. Gary
  18. dingy
    Here is what it looks like mounted on the bike. Brake line will get replaced with a S.S. one now that I can determine a length. The one I put on last year won't reach this caliper. Also replaced the MKII rear master cylinder (17.46mm dia.) with a Master from a VMax (12.7 mm dia.) this should help out with the stopping power. I had to give up the MKII system I put on last year to make the wheel work. If I don't like this setup I can go back to my stock setup. I didn't modify anything that would prevent returning to the MKII style. Just have to buy a new rear tire for the 16" rim. Few bolts need tightened, brake needs bled, then tank and rear sub frame can go back on tonight. Gary
  19. dingy
    My back has not been in good shape for about 3 months now. Just the last couple of weeks I have been able to work on the scooter. I have surgery scheduled again on the 25 of July to fix it. Gary
  20. dingy
    This is one of the things I agree with Goose's position on, car tires are not made for bikes. Unless it is a trike, on the rear. But I will put up some pictures tonight when I get it on bike. Right side clearance is good, left side looked to be about 1/2" with the 150-90 tire. The rim is J 15 x MT 3.50 DOT I am not doing this because of the car tire option, I wanted the smaller rim as it will improve acceleration ability about another 5%. Gary
  21. dingy
    Some what appropriate timing, asking this question. I am finishing up this afternoon putting the VMax 15" stock rim on the bike. I was told by a member that he had done it and all he could recall was something about a shim. I think his memory was clouded. I got a good stock rim from Pinwall and a brand new 150/90-15 Pinelli Route 66 tire for $150. At some point in the process of mounting this I realized that it was going to take a little more McGyvering than a shim. The VMax rim is about 5/8" wider at the axle hole. What this means is there is no way an unmodified Venture caliper mount can possibly fit between the right side of the hub & the swing arm. Not only the caliper mount arm but the MKII floating 320mm rotor is impossible to fit on due to its offset design. The VMax brake mount requires a 280mm rotor, same as what is on the front of an MKII. So I start looking at VMax pictures and how they mounted the caliper on a stock bike. The VMax attaches the caliper basically at the top of the rotor and use a torque arm to restrain the motion of the caliper arm. So I acquired a VMax caliper mount, a brake caliper, a torque arm and a rear brake line. After getting these parts there was still not room to get the VMax caliper arm in the swing arm. I talked to a guy modifies VMax's for a living and he told me that they have to thin up the caliper arm whenever they mount custom wheels to a stock swing arm. So I take my VMax caliper arm and get it modified to the needed width. I am comfortable with the modification to it, and that it is still strong enough. Required removal of almost 5/8" at the axle line. At this point I get the wheel fitted in with the caliper and arm mounted and realize that it is not going to clear the saddlebag as I had hoped it would, so back to the drawing board. Last night I came up with a plan to mount the caliper underneath the swing arm as far forward as it could be rotated. This has required some modification to the stock torque arm in order to get it in a configuration that it would be mountable. This plan has one drawback, it will be a little annoying but I can live with it. The caliper is now mounted upside down from its original designed position, it is in the position that FJR calipers are. The drawback is the bleeder screws are on the bottom of the housing, so in effect about as useful as tits on a boar hog as granny often said. What I will have to do to bleed brakes is to remove caliper from mount arm with brake line attached, invert it so bleeders are now topside, put a spacer between the pads, bleed brake, then remount where its new home is. Sounds like a PIA, it will be, but brakes don't get bled that often so I will accept this as a necessary evil. There are a few pictures attached, I will put some more up tonight when I get this back together. Gary
  22. dingy
    If you want, send it to me and I can go over the soldering. If you ship it priority, I should get it in three business days, 1 day to check and 3 days shipping back. You pay shipping both ways is all. No sure I can fix it, but I can try. I have done two of them and a couple of TCI's, and a CLASS module and they lived. Gary
  23. dingy
    The part numbers for the fan look to be the same from 83 to 90 (didn't check to 93). So you should be able to find a fan fairly easily. The 1st gen VMax's also have the same P/N's for the fan motor & blade. Gary
  24. dingy
    Today is a busy day for electrical issues. First, to possibly answer your question, the stock horns run through the signal fuse (20a). This is the 3rd fuse down in the glass fuse block on a stock MKII. You say you hear and feel the relay clicking, this would indicate you installed the horn the recommended way and did not run the horn circuit itself through the push button. Now, if the relay is clicking it would indicate the horn button circuit is working. I have no clue as how you wired this in. If it was me I would have used the stock button circuit to activate the relay, then ran a separate circuit from the battery with its own fuse through the relay contact to the horn. If this is close to what you did, then you probably going to be the only person on the planet to know were that fuse is. It could also be the ground side has an issue to. Gary
  25. dingy
    Since the light on the switch is going out and it is the 3 wire style, I would believe that the problem is between the power source that feeds the switch and the switch itself, on the positive side. It could be a bad fuse, try a different one. Or connection to battery, fuse that I would hope you have or connection to the switch. The light in the switch going out at the same time, seems to rule out anything downstream of the switch being the cause of the failure. Gary
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