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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. It isn't a 2nd gen IH by any chance??? Gary
  2. If it is bike only doing this, then I suggest you inspect every inch of the added wiring. Did you solder or scotch lock (crimp style connectors or similar) ? Reason I ask is if you soldered them, I have seen a failure where the individually taped connections were then taped together in a bundle. Due to the soldering, sometimes a stray wire may poke through the tape and contact another wire taped right up against it. Point is, don't assume because the joint is taped, it can't be failure point. I am not a fan of crimp style connectors, but this isn't an issue with those style connectors. Also, it is the bike side plug covered when not hooked to trailer. The contact pins could possibly touch a ground point even though they appear to be inside the rubber plug housing If it is bouncing around, anything is possible. You need to look at everything like this to eliminate it as a possible failure point. Gary
  3. Circuit was originally designed at a 15 amp rating. Is it possible that you have overloaded the circuit with the additional lights. If it looks like a Christmas tree from behind and they aren't LED's the answer may be yes. If you have a meter with an amp range of 20 amps or so, it would be prudent to check this first. When checking amps, the meter leads can be placed where the fuse would go. Positive side towards battery, negative side towards load. Fuses don't fail immediately as soon as you pass current rating. There is a time interval at a given over-amperage for them to blow. A 15 amp fuse being loaded at say 17 amps may take a couple of minutes to open, but same fuse at 30 amps will open in a much shorter period of time. Depends on heat build up in fuse element and the time it takes to get hot enough to melt. Gary
  4. Now that was a very sexist comment, shame on you. Earl said it was a young man. Wait till some of the ladies see this one, theres gonna be hell to pay. Come on Mini, show him what you got girl. Gary
  5. Absolutely, You should use a heat sink when you solder them in, like a pair of forceps clamped to lead. If you look at component side of board in picture I posted above, you can see where I didn't put diodes right against board. A circuit board like this in manufacturing is run through a pool of solder that only touches bottom of board usually. With the leads as short as they are on the existing components, the transistors, diodes and IC's would have a high failure rate if they were individually soldered. The pool method is quick , so not much heat is wicked up the leads. If you did overheat diodes, this could be the cause of the hot running condition, maybe. Gary
  6. A Burgandy, The quickest color, To check for progressives in the front, let all the air out, if it squats down much at all it probably doesn't have progressives, anything more than an inch. Also try setting on it with low air in front, apply front brake and lean hard and fast into handlebars, progressives won't give much. Nowhere near bottom, which worn out stock springs may do. Gary
  7. Compare the 1st picture and the one mbrood posted in prior thread. Will show correct before & after diode orientation. I doubt it is diode orientation, it wouldn't work hot or cold then. It is very easy to lift a trace on these old boards, you may have damaged one and it will be a chore to find if you did. I had to put several of jumpers on the back of first one I did to get it right. 2nd picture is back of board, Not pretty, but it worked well. Jumpers are just to left of SCR mount screws. These were needed due to damaged traces. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT4844s.jpg http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT4845s.jpg
  8. try partshark.com If you are engaging 2" out from bar, I don't think slave is problem then. I would think with a bad slave you would be engaging very close to bar. With that much travel before it engages seems to indicate slave is holding. Slave has to build pressure to dis-engage clutch. Have you checked small hole in bottom of master? Also deteriorated rubber lines, there are two rubber lines in the clutch system. Gary
  9. That bearing & push rod, damn percocets. Need to focus. What point do you start feeling any pressure start at, not release, just firming up of lever? If you use your old slave housing, look at bore with a bright light on it. Mine looked more like peeling of a layer than pitting, sorta hard to describe. Gary
  10. Who said anything about a 'Stock' bike. I know you weren't talkin to me. And fastest and quickest aren't the same. Most of my effort has been aimed at the 1/4 mile type performance, not the 130 mph stuff, to old for that. Probably both, but screw it. Gary
  11. If the warning light stays on with no icons (7 of them) lit that indicates low fuel condition, no bars on right side of CMU. If bike has full tank, then sendor needs adjusted. Gary
  12. Think your looking at a slave cylinder. Is level in master dropping any? I would really suggest you just put a complete unit in rather than rebuilding it. I have two slave housings that have degraded bores on them from water and debris laying in there. I know its more money, but it may be easier in long run. It isn't real hard to get the slave out if the two bolts cooperate. Replacing seal for push rod could be a PIA with motor in frame. They are $64 bucks from part shark. I doubt you would need a new push rod. If you do I have a good one you can have. Also have a pressure plate that was working fine in the 1200 motor when I decommissioned it. Gary
  13. Hope you are OK Earl. Wish mine was running, I could be the quickest Venture on the site if it were, at least while your out of commission. I don't have much of anything on the rear end. I do have an MKII swing arm, that has been cleaned up. Got a pair of turn signals, but if you didn't drop it those are probably OK. I do have a complete tail light assembly, and a rear rim, about all I can think of. Any of this you need is yours for the shipping cost. Gary
  14. Look at service manual for torque specs on tightening swing arm down. Torque is set by right hand bolt & lock nut. Only left side gets the lock washer. Gary
  15. Yes. Sensor in front & rear brake master, none in clutch. Gary
  16. dingy

    SomeTimers

    Can you pick yours out of a line-up?? I don't think so. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/wrenches.jpg
  17. Looked at the parts fiche and it shows top bleeder was added in 86. But the manual has been wrong on more than a dozen occasions though. Gary
  18. If you could find out what the size of this hole is, that would be valuable info. It will be a tiny drill, but Yamaha had to have one to drill it when manufactured. Gary
  19. I don't think the MKI's have the steering head bleeder. I know the 83 doesn't. Thought this was added on the 86-93 bikes. Gary
  20. This may help. There are a couple of posts I made to this thread that details putting pictures in. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44037 Gary
  21. Here is the 86-93 service manual cut on adjusting the steering head bearings. Same procedure for the MKI's, but the MKII manual has a better write up on doing it. 1st one is adjusting bearings. 2nd one is replacing bearings. I don't think you could tell if the bearings were bad without pulling upper bearing out and inspecting it. They would have to be awful bad before you could get a feel for the race being indented. I did buy a parts bike that had less than 30k on it and when I tore it down the upper bearing was bad. I had ordered a set for mine and when I got into it they didn't need replaced, sold them to a member here already though. Gary
  22. We're there for you. Could have saved your life !! Gary
  23. We had our local branch closed about 4 months ago. I could see it out the window. Not as convenient, but there is a main one 2 1/2 miles away. Gary
  24. I am back home. Surgery went fine and the original pain is GONE. I have some new short term surgical related pain. All I have is an incision about 1 1/2" long near my spine on left side about belt line. Dr. said he pulled out disc fragment. Missed you guys !! Gary
  25. Are you sure it is the oil light? 2nd down on left side is brake fluid. 3rd one down is oil. The oil level indicator is on very bottom of the motor near the front. A single wire leads to the rear and up the left frame near the air dampener control knob. If this wire is grounded on the wiring cable side it should turn indicator off. Gary
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