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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. I finally got to ride the scooter today, actually took it around a few blocks Thursday to check it out. Somewhat rushed getting it together so I could ride with my cousins and other friends to a bike show at a HD dealer near here. Didn't know they were going to have a dyno setup, for free none the less. I really wasn't ready for a dyno run yet, but the price was right. I haven't synced carbs on bike, mixture screws are close & the TCI still needs dialed in, but I went for it, how embarrassing could it be in front of a 100 HD riders. Was a slight problem hooking dyno up to bike. I don't have plug wires anymore so they couldn't hook tach sensor in. I went to Coil Over Plugs this winter. Without the VBoost activated it hit 97 RWHP, that sucks, last year I had 96 RWHP. Activated the VBoost and it hit 108.96 RWHP. That's 11 more HP with pressing a button. I think with tuning and getting it dialed in 120RWHP is doable. I have located a guy that will bring me into his shop & work with me on setting jetting and fine tuning this thing on a dyno for a reasonable rate. I am close to that point. Didn't get a print out of the dyno, they didn't have a printer set up. I got a mostly unreadable cell phone picture of screen, my cousin is going to email me his attempts at picture when he gets home. At least I didn't embarrass myself totally. My cousin said some of the HD guys were in disbelieve of the numbers. Also, got caught in a hail storm while we where out. Dove for cover in a strip mall under a over hanging store front. Gary
  2. Attached are a few pictures of what the installed unit looks like, I just let mine lay in the radio pocket. I have an after market radio, that is very short, no cd player and it works out fine. The 1st picture is of just the adapter cable shows a MAP sensor similar to the new ones I will be getting. I am going to use the 3 pin stator style plugs I got to make the MAP sensor unplugable. 2nd picture is of system in bike. 3rd is of it hooked up to laptop USB port. Gary
  3. Found the english button on the web page in the 1st post. They are H3's 55 watts. Not near what the 90's are. Still probably an improvement though. Gary
  4. I see what you mean, the 90 hellas have a square mounting profile for the 4 retaining screws, these are rectangular. Probably not near as good as the 90's. They are like aircraft landing lights. Gary
  5. I have the same set up as Snaggletooth & I have rewired it to run both lights on high beam & have not seen a heat issue. No melting of the rubber boot or anything. This adapter plate is a different version of what a few of us have. I think I am concerned by the single mount point on either side. If it is up against the existing headlight bucket it is probably fine, but I can't tell. As far as I know, what Snag & I and a few others have can not be done to an MKII. Attached are a few pictures of this. First picture doesn't have the cover plate installed yet, just the adjustment plate. This was originally Tim Grey's idea, that I pirated and made a set for myself and one I sold one ebay, then made a few adapter plate pairs for some members. This is just a design I came up with after seeing Tim Grey's mock up of 2 hella's setting in the headlight housing. Gary
  6. I have a final drive from an FJR1300 on my 83 bike. The one issue I encountered, and was helped with here, is the spacer 'bushing' did not come with the rear end. Not realizing I was missing it, when I bolted it up and torqued rear axle the assembly bound up. Go to partshark.com 2004 year FJR1300 tab, Driveshaft Tab. Look at P/N 32 callout. It is shown as dashed between #4 & #5. It is shown with a call out # at the top of the view. Very important piece that is 'loose' need to make sure you have one when you put it together. You are going to have to have it machined for the pickup that mounts in it. You can see the boss on the attached picture. I think pegscrapper was doing this, maybe Dano also. Otherwise it is an exact fit for a VMax rear end. Gary
  7. I have corrected the drawing I posted above of the wiring harness adapter. Some wire color call out changes. He did have the two blue wires flipped as usual. I will make Ignitech aware of this problem, so they can fix it before I order the units in the group buy. Gary
  8. Whose your Daddy. Never having laid hands on an RSV. That ought to quite the naysayers. Gary
  9. Can you email me a picture of both ends of harness? gary(at)dinges.com remove (at) and put in @ (this keeps spam crawlers from finding my email address, they don't see the wrong format) Or call me, I'm home now for rest of night. Gary
  10. Attached is crude wiring diagram of adapter harness for a 83-89 Venture - 85-89 VMax. The two Blue wires have been wrong before, from Ignitech. If you are not sure, ask me, or call me, phone # is in my profile. Gary
  11. I think it is the one the red arrow is pointing to. Verify this, as I don't have an RSV to verify this. It should be in a six pin connector, the wire on opposite side of connector should be a Blue with Black tracer. To verify this put meter on a scale higher than 12VDC, hook black lead to a good ground. Take a paperclip and straighten out (or something similar) clip this to red lead and insert paperclip into side of connector the red/yellow wore goes in. You should read 12vdc (mabye a little higher) with the KEY ON. Turn KEY OFF and voltage should drop to 0vdc. One more check you can do to verify it is right wire is with KEY ON and reading 12VDC, pull the signal fuse out of fuse block. Voltage should drop to 0vdc. Looks like this is in fuse box #2, #4 fuse. See thumbnail picture attached. As far as your wanting them all the time and others telling you not to, whose making the payments or whatever on the bike, listen to that voice. I personally would put a switch in, just in case you ever got into a low battery condition and you need to conserve power. It has happened to some with this bike. The relay you are putting in is probably going to pull less than 250 milliamps, (1/4 amp). Any circuit on a somewhat stock bike should handle that. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/rsnred-yellowwire.jpg
  12. I think it has been mentioned that you have to redo it from the original place you got map from, then save it and reattach new version. Or there is always the Microsoft paint option. And this thread would help when you have a bike related question. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58880 Gary
  13. Now that is some SERIOUS McGyvering, best i've seen in a while. Either he didn't have big enough wire, or he had to big an eyelet to attach wires to. Will carry a bunch of current though. Have I mentioned before how much I dislike crimp style wire connectors,2nd & 3rd pictures are good examples of why. Exposed circuit conducting metal exposed. I might suggest that you look at every bit of the wiring on this bike. I see several things in the first picture that are going to possibly bite you in the ass at a very inopuertune time. The yellow twist on connector at left side of page, this can vibrate loose. The white connector at the bottom center looks like it is wrapped around some metal, I think this is possibly a 12v supply. The obvious melted connector. The crimp connections. There appears to be a bare eye ring behind the ATC fuse connector. Gary
  14. Craig, Thought of something to check on your Ignitech adapter harness. Problem is I am at work, and don't have the info I need here. I just got another Ignitech unit last week and the pick up coil & common ground wires were flipped. The module will not work with this error. I will send you pins to check around 5 this afternoon. This is not related though to the bike not cranking. One way to check starter is to take battery jumper cable and jump from positive post on battery to the positive stud on starter. MAKE SURE BIKE IS IN NEUTRAL OR ON CENTER STAND. If starter, battery & ground path is good, this should crank motor. Gary
  15. It would be very functional between bikes. Not as perfect as it could be with some tweaking, but at least as good as a fully functional stock TCI. It will only be able to be swapped from an 83 to an 89 in your case. The 90-93 will need a different wiring harness & software to function. I will provide that for the year needed, dependent on # of pick up coils in motor. This is the driving difference. The TCI electronics is identical between the different models. 83-89 have 4 pick up coils & 90-93 have 1. This will also work on the RSV's, just a different adapter harness and a different program. This same thing will work on Triumphs, some Hondas, some Harleys, some Kaw's, some suzuki's. It's what makes it so attractive. Everything can be adjusted via the software & adapter harness. Gary
  16. The stock boost seems like it will work, but not as well as the 1 bar map sensor. The stock boost unit does not have as wide a voltage difference as the bar sensor, the wider range is more useful. Also if the stock unit were to fail at some point, it might put 12 volts into the Ignitech unit, which is 5V based. It has 12v input, but then regulates it to 5v, much like any modern auto. It will be plug & play. It will be completely tunable by those that want to with a laptop to hook into it, but not required. Gary
  17. After a lot of searching, I finally found a supplier that will sell me a quantity of new MAP 1 bar sensors with the wiring harness. I have been hesitant to do this with having to find that many sensors at a junkyard, not knowing what condition they were in and not having every one alike, so that people can swap info & know that the other person has a very similar setup. I scoured ebay and almost countless web sites. I could find some sensors only that were cheaper, but no wiring harness. Without the harness I would have had to find correct terminals, make the harness, and possibly epoxy fill the cavity. I have gotten a decent reading on the stock Venture Boost sensor, from GaryZ. He said it had a low reading of 1.66v and a high reading of 2.4v. which is an offset difference of 0.74v. This is a lot less than the sensor I am using. It has a low of about 1.37 and a high of 3.45 which is a differential of 2.08 volts. A much nicer range to work with. The Ignitech software will let user adjust high & low voltage on an attached PC to calibrate the exact output of any given motor. See 1st attached screen shot (note this is taken from version 75 software. these units will be version 80 software.) 2nd picture attached is of the Bar sensor I found. 3rd picture is a dimensional drawing with millimeter dimensions. I have placed inch measurements on picture at critical dimensions. wiring harness is probably close to 1" additional height added to the 2.1" dim. 4th & 5th are some specs and views of map sensor. I can get the TCI and matching cable & software to match up to either a 83-89 Venture with 4 pick up coils or a 90-93 Venture with 1 pick up coil. The TCI is identical with either model, only adapter cable & software will change. I am also going to get enough pins so that any one that wants to can cut the ends of the Venture harness and replace with the somewhat special pins so eliminate the bulk of the adapter harness. This paragraph is not intended to scare anyone away or influence you to get in on this buy. I received my unit last weekend. This is at least the 10th one that they have sold to a Venture owner and it still had a wiring mistake that I know they have been informed about. They had the pick up coil common (4 coil unit) and the ground connector swapped. This is one of the the things I checked for before hooking it into my bike. Swapped connectors prior to plugging in and it started right up. Ok, in order to get the new map sensors I will need $15 more per unit, which a new cost of $240 per unit plus shipping of probably $8 for US priority mail. If you want to use your own map sensor or go with the existing one on the bike now, it would be $220 plus shipping. Between the people here that said they wanted to do this and the Venture people I have enough lined up if most every one commits. I will need a fairly sizable down payment from every one with the balance due upon shipping. I am just a regular worker bee like most of you so I don't have the free capital to bankroll all this. I have about $500 to invest in it. What I am trying to do is make a little profit each one sold and I am going to get the Racer 3 TCI they have to experiment with. It has Nitrous retard functions. I will need at least $175 down to do this Total payment is better yet. I will PM each one that has expressed an interest. If you can please commit ASAP. I will get the MAP sensors ordered right away as they are about a week shipping from China. I will not order TCI's until the 14th of August. That would be Monday morning in Czech Republic. The reason is to give people a week plus to get funds together. I would need payment to my paypal account, money order would be great or personal transaction on paypal so I don't have to pay a 2.9% fee. I would hope to receive them by Friday the 19th. Allow the weekend to prep them & test then ship out Monday 22nd. One final note. I work for a sensor manufacturer in the R&D department. I am the mechanical engineer, one of the electrical engineers thinks he can come up with a low cost, low complexity circuit to drive the servo motor. This will entail boosting the TCI 5vdc to 12 VDC to run the servo. This will MAYBE be a future upgrade. For now the standard VBoost controller or what is on the VMax now will drive servo. This is just speculation at this point, but I have a lot of resources available to do this & test it if it can be done. Any thoughts or suggestions either PM me or post here. My email is gary(at)dinges.com remove (at) and insert @ Gary
  18. Checked both starters. 1st with a Simpson 260 analog meter and both were .25 ohms on average, reading went up a little as brushes crossed commuter. 2nd with a Beckman 310 digital meter and both were .3 ohms on average. I trust the Simpson a little more for low readings like this. Since it is analog, I know it is right at zero when I start and scale has more definition than the digital. Digital only displays one decimal point accuracy. Gary
  19. From his profile, it looks like he has an 87 Venture. The 83 unit won't work correctky due to its vacuum port requirements. He can use a 84-89 Venture or a 85-89 VMax unit. Or the Ignitech unit. I am still working on the group buy for the Ignitech TCI's. Finally located a source for the 1 bar map sensor with cabling last night that was a reasonable price. I will post to the group buy thread tonight. I don't know of anyone that repairs them, one member that passed away had looked into it quite a bit and I think he came to the conclusion that the two large IC's in the TCI were propritary to Yamaha, and thus not avaliable. Gary
  20. I have two good spare starters I can check tonight and see what they read. You are looking for resistance from positive input on starter to case ground? Gary
  21. The Ignitech TCI will require the same checks as I posted above. This is due to it using same inputs as the stock TCI. PM me an email address and I will send you a IGN file for the ignitech that is much better than what they supply. Als, with the Ignitech TCI, do not upload a program to it while motor is running. Gary
  22. Tell me you didn't just say you paid this guy to more work and he hasn't finished the garage yet. If you did, I'm thinking you need an intervention. Gary
  23. What year was the 'new' TCI from? Yours can use anything from 84-89 Venture or an 85-89 VMax. Attached is a layout of a 83-89 TCI that one of our members made up. Couple of points to check, pull the 6 pin connector on the TCI. Put meter on lowest Ohms scale and see if there is any continuity (0 -5 ohms) from pin 'D' to ground. This is the TCI kill circuit, the 'Fall over sensor or side stand can make this pin read ground. Key can be 'Off' for this one. If it is grounded, this will prevent TCI from operating. Pull the 8 pin connector on the TCI and check pin '8' and see if there is continuity to ground. Should be 0 ohms or close to that. Again, key 'Off'. This is the negative power side of TCI. Turn the key 'On', and with meter at 15VDC scale or higher, ground negative probe to battery and check for 12VDC on pin '1' on 8 pin cable on TCI. This is the power circuit to run the TCI. If all this looks OK, check the pick up coils. There is a 6 pin connector on left side rear, near the shock damper knob. This connector has 5 used pins. The Black wire is common to all 4 coils. The Black wire is the one in the slot that has the empty space above it, sometimes this connector is so dirty its hard to tell wire colors. You should read about 95-120 ohms from the Black wire to each ot the other 4 wires. If they are all close to the same reading and in that range, they are probably OK. Gary
  24. Just about $70 on partshark.com, each. Gary
  25. Do you hear the engine turning over, or just the low volume of the starter only turning. This will sound stupid, don't mean it that way, if your not sure pull a plug, put your finger near spark plug hole and crank it, sounds like you know the difference though. Two totally different set of problems if is the starter, or a no fire condition. Gary
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