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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    Hopefully both, you have seen my scooter, if it will make it quicker, I'll try it. Gary
  2. dingy
    There is not a lot of hard data on these units yet to say for sure what the overall benefits are performance wise. It could be Yamaha put the optimum program in the stock TCI and there is little room for improvement. I doubt that is the case though. I really think there is room for improvement from the stock TCI's. The first item is these are digital based TCI's with fairly modern technology. The 83-89 TCI's were analog based with 28 year old (minimum technology). Another great feature is these TCI's are encapsulated in epoxy. Pretty much waterproof. Downside is it can't be altered if ever desired. The stock TCI's were put in just about the worst place on the bike possible, right out front where water spray was, and right above the heads with the heat issues. The VMaxs did utilize a better mount area than the Ventures. The stock TCI's have been known to fail from component failures, there are 8 barrel diodes that corrode, fail and kill the TCI. The stock TCI's had no user programing features at all. Since the timing is not adjustable mechanically on these bikes, there was no way to tweak them. The Ignitech unit can be adjusted within a 10x10 point matrix for timing. One axis is RPM's and the other is intended for a Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) but I think most of us that have this unit are using a MAP sensor (or BAR sensor). Based on these two inputs a timing advance is obtained. The software has preset units for the TPS input at 0, 2, 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 60, 80, & 100%. The RPM values can be set in 100 RPM steps. See next chart. At the intersection of these two values the advance desired can then be input. The chart can be viewed in three formats to help visualize the input values. As well as the timing ability, there is a built in variable rev limiter, ability to adjust the coil excitation (dwell time), this is useful if aftermarket coils are used such as Coil Over Plugs. There is the ability to disable the ignition from 1-40 revolutions when starting to help clear cylinders (I use 1 rev). Output for a gear shift light, can be set up to power a fuel pump relay with the time delay, also tach output. If you were a true gear head, there is a clutch shift input, so you don't have to let off the throttle when power shifting. When clutch is pulled, ignition is interrupted for a variable, brief time measured in milliseconds thus allowing the shift. All of these settings are done via a laptop hooked up to the TCI via a built in com port and supplied software. The last picture shows the Bike tab of the software, this is the page that has the parameters for a particular bike style. The same black box will work on a lot of different bikes, the setup for a particular bike model is done on this page and not really changeable, also the adapter cable is unique to a bike model. Gary
  3. dingy
    The TCI's finally arrived today. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/DSC02746.jpg
  4. dingy
    Pinwall has been very good with me in our dealings. I got a radiator grill a couple of months ago that was damaged, and the damage was in the pictures in the listing if you looked for it. They now point to most all damages with a yellow stick, but this was an old listing before they started doing this. I called them and said I was not happy with part, and pointed out another one that they had listed at that time. She stopped the current listing and sent it to me at no charge. Told me to junk the 1st one. I had another instance where I bid on something and before I paid for it I got a much better deal offered by someone on here. I called them and offered to still spend the money I had bid, but asked for a different item, was my VMax rear wheel & tire, They didn't give me any greif and swapped stuff around to help me out. I live about 50 miles from them & have been at the old place, which was nice for a bike junkyard. Gary
  5. dingy
    You trying to slow one of the bikes down a little or what?? I would almost wager they would, cams interchange, so the cam retainers may be similar. Like you said valve cover gaskets interchange. Why not get a set of VMax covers, they do look nice. And they will interchange for sure. Did you see my email about the TCI's are on the way to me? Gary
  6. dingy
    The WD40 may help the choke if you spray it on each enricher on the carbs, they tend to bind up. For the cables, there is a nifty gadget, called something like "Cable Lubricator" Here is a picture of one on Amazon. It clamps around cable jacket on one end and cable wire on other, and with a spray can of lube, you inject it into this gizmo with one of those thin straw like tubes. You would want something thicker in viscosity than WD40 though. I use a chain lube that I have. Gary
  7. dingy
    Coming soon to a Venture near you !! Gary
  8. dingy
    Happy Birthday Dan !! Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/oldfart.jpg
  9. dingy
    How about Oberlin, Ohio. The infrastructure is in place !! Gary
  10. dingy
    Basically, with an 87, you can use from 86-93 forks. The limiting factor is what brake calipers you intend on using. 83-85 have 80mm between mounting holes, 86-93 have 100mm between mounting holes. The 86-93 forks offer the best braking options with either the MKII (86-93) quad piston, 2 piece calipers, or the next upgrade is a set of about 2000 R1 one piece calipers. If you are fanatical about stopping power, there is an adapter available from one of the VMax guys that will allow a 6 piston Hyabusi (sp) caliper to be mounted. There is such a thing as to much front brakes though. I have a set of all three calipers, very good pads, replaced caliper seals and a rear rotor available. Plus as an added, no charge bonus, they are pwder coated super mirror red.!!! Picture is of front calipers. I do not have a set of front rotors, only the rear. I put R1's on front and a VMax set on rear this year. Rear still needs tweaking, but it is a master cylinder change. The anti dives are almost totally worthless with a set of progressive springs. Also energy hogs. Put Earl's block off plates on and trash them. It's the way I went this year and happy for it. Gary
  11. dingy
    Does the Dyna 3000 work with the carb heater circuit & the Engine Warning Indicator Light on the RSV? Gary
  12. dingy

    A wake up

    dingy replied to Black Owl's topic in Watering Hole

    So do you have a release date yet? Can you make it P&P this year, or will you be detained? Gary
  13. dingy
    The reason these two screws are shorter is that if the head is removed with the intakes still atached, the sholder of the head bolt can not pass the longer screw that is now encroaching into the head bolt cavity. This I know from first hand experience. If you have stripped it, your options are limited. Helicoil probably being 1st, 2nd drill # tap next size up, be it SAE or metric, with this option you need to have a clean hole no larger than the minor dia. of the thread you opt for. My last choice would be J&B weld. I have seen this stuff work, and not work. At a minimum, valve cover will need to come off to clean out head bolt cavity off drill & tap chips. Gary
  14. dingy
    The screw on the outer right front head, and the outer left rear head for the intakes are a tad different than the other 6. These two are drilled through the head and into the cavity that the head bolt is in. See the picture, arrow points to where it is at. 2nd picture somewhat shows alignment of this hole. If at some point someone put too long of a screw in this hole it could possibly hit the head bolt and be the source of the shavings. The cap screws into these two holes should be 16mm long, the other 6 are 20mm long. You need to put some black permatex (or similar on the threads of these two screws to get them to seal. As far as the shavings go, the oil filter will hopefully do its job and get those very few shavings out. With the way the oil sump is on these bikes, all of the oil will not drain out on a change, so an oil change, while it will make you feel better, will do little good for this. Gary
  15. dingy
    Whats the weight limit? Sort of wanted to do this, but I am near 270, bone dry. Gary
  16. dingy
    Probably a very small chance of this being the cause, but a loose rotor, caliper or rear axle might cause the shuddering effect. Its' something to check. Gary
  17. dingy

    Am I Crazy?

    dingy replied to skajs's topic in Watering Hole

    1st gens are about 750 curb weight. They are not really a beginner's big bike. They handle somewhat like a beached whale at low speed maneuvering, and they are to much bike to kick back up with your leg. Once they start going, they are down. You add the riders weight, a passenger and junk in the trunk, they can hit above 1100 lbs easily. At cruising speed they are an excellent maneuvering bike. You need to watch where you park them, you don't want to pull into a parking space that is angled down and expect to walk the bike back up out of it. They sit up fairly high and some people that are on the shorter side can not sit flat footed on them Gary
  18. dingy
    This was posted about 18 months ago. Gives some contact info, phone # address & email for Marks Pipes http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44529 Gary
  19. dingy
    Could your use of the non-resistor plug be the root cause of your short life of the plugs? Gary
  20. dingy
    The service manual calls for a DPR8EA-9 NGK plug. This is a resistor plug. It is the same call out in the 83-85, 86-93 & The RSV SM's. See attached NGK chart. I can't think of an obvious reason why a non-resistor plug would hurt the bike. The TCI would be, for the most part, isolated from the plug/wire total resistance via the primary/secondary's in the coil. The thought that does comes to mind is that the effect of resistance in any series circuit is to reduce the current flow & cause a voltage drop across the resistance. Since the plug resistance is back to back with the cap's resistance, there seems to be little electrical benefit to having two separate resistors. When the primary coil field collapses at the point the TCI interrupts the 12v- going to it, there then is a highly amplified build up energy in the secondary coil field as it expands. As this energy climbs past a required threshold, the result is the voltage potential difference causes the spark plug to arc over to ground in order bleed off this energy. As a result of this extremely rapid bleed off in the secondary, its field then collapses and will cause an inverse spike back to the primary coil. I am totally speculating here in that maybe Yamaha wanted the amount of resistance that is obtained from using the two resistors to somewhat dampen the resulting current outrush or limit the voltage potential difference, from the secondary. This would have the effect of then possibly dampening the bounce in the primary coil which would then be applied to the TCI. There could possibly design intent built into the TCI to accommodate this. Otherwise, from a manufacturing cost reduction stand point, it makes little sense to put in a more costly resistor plug wire. The cost of a resistor vs non resistor plug is probably insignificant. All this except the 1st two paragraphs have no basis in reality though. Gary
  21. dingy
    You are nowhere near the stupid post award thingy. That was actually a good question. I think you have to put at least two of your cell phones in the washing machine, then ask why they won't work. Not that this has ever happened, just sayin' Gary
  22. dingy
    It is interesting to see that the wiring diagrams I did and only posted to this site are available there as well. Gary
  23. dingy
    In the off position, only 1 set of contacts are closed. The Br wire feed from the keyed power source goes in the switch and out on the Br/Y wire, into the 41R(Flasher Relay Assy). Top row in the hazard switch (this is the off row)(when hazard sw. is on, the bottom row of contacts are closed where lines indicate, and the top row is opened.) This then passes through the closed contact in the falser relay (in the 41R) then over to the turn signal on the Br/W wire. Attached below is a description of the contact operation in the turn signal switch. It will be confusing, it was for me to write it. Any mildly complex circuit such as this turn signal switch can be frustrating if you try to absorb the whole system, without first understanding how each component functions in the overall system. Gary Brian beat me, see his post above.
  24. dingy
    What are you doing chasing some woman? Just because the Warden gave a bunch of money to your remodeling expert while you off gallivanting all over the country??? I wouldn't give up on Warden that quick now. Anyways, she may know how a taser works. Gary
  25. dingy
    Look at this thread, it may offer some insight into the fuel pump operation. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=617177#post617177 Gary
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