Jump to content

dingy

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    5,403

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    What is the 'recommended' position of the E clip on the carb diaphragm needle valves? Needle valve is similar to one on bottom of attached picture, not exactly but close. I am getting these carbs closer on Speedy, but I stil have a slight popping below 3,000 RPM's & gas mileage is somewhat lower than expected. About 25-30mpg range. Carbs are 35mm mikunis with stock VMax jets in. 150 mains, 90 PAJ2, 170 PAJ1 & 37.5 pilot. Gary
  2. dingy
    I PMed him about a month ago checking on him, but no reply. He took off for quite a while last summer fall at some point, some hussy in Bravaria & dark beer or Jack D. was involved I think. Gary
  3. dingy
    Your compression is somewhat on the low side. Did you have throttle wide open when checking? Was motor warmed up? 160-170 would be more in normal range. Gary
  4. dingy
    I have the video that hcdagen mentioned and while similar, there some major differences between the carbs on your Royal Star and the ones in the video. I attached a couple of pictures from partshark.com to show them. Crappy resolution, but it shows them both. 1st one is 96 Royal Star, 2nd is 86 VMax. The video will be helpful no doubt, but won't be a step by step tutorial. The ebay sellers ID is luci0903 Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/1996RScarbs.jpg http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/86VMaxcarbs.jpg
  5. dingy
    Good Luck and prayers Dan. I'll bet she wasn't homesick at a minimum though. Gary
  6. dingy
    I have an 83 (title says so) 1st gen. I can out handle and outrun two guys that ride a bunch with me that are good riders. One has a Dyna Glide and other has a Road Glide. Actually, I could outrun the Dyna up till this weekend, now we are pretty even (cost him about 5K on top of a stage 4 kit to do it though, 125 RWHP out of a HD.) The 2nd gens (99-present) do not reportedly handle as well, which considering forward controls is to be expected. Curb weight for a 1st gen is about 750#. They are not a crotch rocket as far as handling, but not bad at all. Mono shock suspension makes the handling in curves more predictable than dual shock setups. They do not handle well at parking lot speed, but once you are at a speed where you start counter steering, it's not bad. Gary
  7. dingy
    If it is moving that much it may be the collector is broke. There is a thin gasket/band inside muffler on collector end, but no more than 1/32" thick probably. I would suggest you take the bolt out that is holding muffler on under rear footrest bracket (12 mm) and see what collector necks look like. The grease fittings were installed by a previous owner I think, don't believe that year came with them. Just regular grease in a pump gun will be fine. Lithium soap based I think is a techy term. Gary
  8. dingy
    They are the same thing, sort of. Red line is a mark on the tach that denotes manufactures suggested upper RPM limit. Nothing to stop rider from exceding this. Rev limiter is an electronic way of enforcing this suggestion (or another RPM if it is adjustable) by inhibiting the ability of motor to increase RPM's further. In the Ignitech case, the spark to the plugs is interupted, but not completly shut down, they may kill a couple of cylinders, not sure though. The effect of this is more gentle than some of the HD's I have rode, where they kill the spark totally and it gives the feeling of hard motor braking, slamming rider forward. Gary
  9. dingy
    Michael, Both settings are an easy change, you have the USB/Com cable to be able to hook into module. If you need any help contact me. Gary
  10. dingy
    You should post a new thread when you have a somewhat new question. Often people don't look at old threads even when there is a new post in it. Go to link below & click on New Thread in somewhat upper left to start a new thread in the 1st Gen Tech Forum. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=8 Most always, you will get some sort of help from one of us. Gary
  11. dingy
    There is almost nothing on the bottom that a rebuild will do anything for in the way of leaking. One thing on bottom is a socket cap screw that goes up into the fork damper tube, it has a copper washer on it to prevent leaking. Two other places it may leak on bottom is from the oil drain screw (very small on rear lower side). And the Anti-dive valves could leak around mating surface. If this started right after a hard bottoming, I would be inclined to look for a cracked lower outer tube casting. BEFORE YOU RIDE IT AGAIN, this could cause total loss of any semblance of control if this lower tube were to completely fracture. Gary
  12. dingy
    657 & counting. Short riding window of opportunity. Gary
  13. dingy
    Mileage this afternoon, this many is on the frame and plastic anyways. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/DSC03072.jpg
  14. dingy
    I think that is primarily the stator 3 wire connector to the regulator. I haven't heard anyone doing that to this connector, very little current in it really. It was just dirty and high resistance on contacts. The 4 pickup coils had correct ohms on them and were not shorted to ground. Gary
  15. dingy
    I had an issue with one of the units where it would not start the bike. Bike was barely running with a stock TCI & Ignitech would not fire it. Fortunately bike was located near me and I went to look at it twice. Turned out the connector from the pickup coils to the main harness was very dirty. With this cleaned Ignitech unit fired right up and ran the bike. Motor still needs some attention, to run correct, which I think is carb related. This one really was baffling because I had run Ignitech in my bike prior to it going in this one. I also took a known good stock TCI along and another Ignitech unit to check it with. The Ignitech ties the 4 pickup coils into two inputs for the TCI, this creates a wasted spark setup similar to the 90-93 Ventures. The corroded contacts were bad enough to not allow the new TCI to run. When I separated contact halves there was a fair amount of material similar to sand that came out of it. Gary
  16. dingy
    Saw something on TV about Texas drought and it said the river was a dry stream bed. Kinda gonna take the fun out of this I would think. Gary
  17. dingy
    Found the problem as to why the bike would run with the stock TCI and not the Ignitech unit. The connector from the pickup coils to the wiring harness was very dirty. The Ignitech unit ties the four pick up coils together in to two pairs and uses two inputs into the TCI. This creates a wasted spark input similar to the 90-93 Venture TCI's use. Bike was barely running with the stock TCI and when Ignitech unit was put in it didn't receive signal it was expecting. After contacts cleaned in the connector, new TCI ran as it should. I took it for a short ride and bike felt good in mid & upper RPM ranges. The mechanic that has the bike can now, with it running get the carbs cleaned and serviced & the bike back on the road. Gary
  18. dingy
    Just a note. The 83 is the only year to use this physical configuration, after 84 & up flasher & cancel relays are built into the 41R starting relay. Gary
  19. dingy
    Yes, you still need #2 with the O-ring. Gary
  20. dingy
    Here is some more info on bike above. James (buckeye29) has one of the Ignitech TCI I am selling. He came to my house and picked it up. It was in my bike and running when he was here. The mechanic says bike needs a new TCI to correct rough running. Bike will start with old TCI, but when Ignitech unit is put in it won't start. One thing I thought of was that maybe at some point in bikes prior life was that the motor had been changed from the 87 to a 90-93 version. If it has been changed to 90-93, the Ignitech can be modified to work, but not as it is now configured. I have not heard back from the mechanic on verifying the serial number of the stock TCI. If it has a prefix of 41R, it is still a 4 pickup coil motor, but if it has a 3JJ prefix then it is the single pickup. James says he has the service manual that has what appear to be a log of work done to bike and no indication of a motor swap. Gary
  21. dingy
    Since they are dual piston calipers there may be a way, not real easy, but a way. With caliper off bike, put some type of clamp so only the piston OPPOSITE the brake line port can move, maybe a 'C' clamp. Hook caliper to brake line and see if you can develop enough pressure to force unclamped piston out of caliper. If this works, 1 down, one to go. Split caliper in half by removing the connecting bolts. There are 2 pass through ports between the caliper halves. You need to place some thin sealing type material over these 2 ports and rebolt caliper halves back together with enough tension to get material to seal off the pass through port. This will keep pressure in the side with the piston still in caliper body. Reattach to brake line and try to pump this one out. Long shot if this will work, but it is an idea. Gary
  22. dingy
    Look in this area on this site, there are full wiring diagrams in hers that I did. Somewhat easier to read. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=68 Gary
  23. dingy
    Verify that all the choke (starting) plungers are going in all the way when choke is off. The actual fuel filter is the second filter. There is a fine mesh screen in the bottom of the tank that is around the pick up tubes. After the fuel filter, there is another fine mesh screen in the carbs just before the float needle valves. Gary
  24. dingy
    Look at thread below to repair throttle side switch. Contacts in it are probably dirty, rather than ignition switch. If you give me a little better info on relay(s) he needs, I might be able to help. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42433 Gary
  25. dingy
    One of the two sets of contacts in the start switch cuts the head lights out when the starter is cranking (or supposed to be). Separate circuit, from actual starting circuit. On the 83, there is a two wire connector leading into the start solenoid. Disconnect this connector. MAKE sure bike is in neutral or on center stand. Put 12v power to this connector on solenoid side. Polarity doesn't matter. If bike cranks, there is another problem, if it clicks & bike doesn't crank, solenoid is probably bad. If solenoid clocks but bike does not crank & as you said in first post, it cranks when you jump terminals on solenoid, it is defiantly bad. Attached are the 83 starting circuits. Gary
×
×
  • Create New...