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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    Did you already have delinked brakes? Benifit of doing it through proportioning valve initially is the same rear brake line will work. If it is moved to the front port, new line is required due to greater distance. Gary
  2. dingy
    On a stock fuse block, there are two terminals at the top of the block. The left one is the ground wire and the right one is the 12v+. The first fuse down (stock setup) will have power on left side with fuse out when key is in run or accy position. Right side of top fuse goes directly to top right terminal in fuse block. I think Earl is supplying two separate terminal blocks for the accy connections from what I remember from his classified ad. Gary
  3. dingy
    If it has sat for that long, your gonna find more gremlins than the turn signal switch. Setting is not good on any piece of equipment. Gary
  4. dingy
    This picture is best I can do right now, PC issues on desktop. The screw circled in red is the left side sync screw, opposite side has 2 screws in same vicinity. The yellow circled hole on right lower side is one of four idle mixture screw holes. Brass plug has been removed. The idle adj screw is below the bar at the bottom of this picture, but not seen. 2nd picture shows parts from inside the jet block, positioned below jet block, float and float needle valve & main tube also in picture. You have mentioned several times that you think PO messed with sync screws. It doesn't matter. When you split carb rack apart they almost for sure needed reset. The sync being out a little is almost for sure not going to make it die when throttle cranked, unless you didn't get them close on bench setup. But they would have to be wayyy out. Gary
  5. dingy
    Idle mixture screws are just below diaphragm cover on each carb. If never adjusted, these will have a brass cap over them, about 1/4" dia. and flush with carb body. Drill small hole (about 1/8", depends on screw size used next) in brass cap to allow a small sheet metal screw to just start in brass cap, then remove brass cap with pliers. Do not allow drill to go in more than a 1/2", idle mixture screws are then under the removed cap. Initial setting for screws is about 2 turns out, after gently seating them. It will take a narrow head, flat blade screwdriver. Get biggest one you got that will just fit in hole. Do not force them, if tight, spray with penetrating lube. What procedure did you do to clean carbs? Did you pull jet block off in behind float bowl cover? (This one is important) Did you replace 2 fiber gaskets & 6 o-rings ? You need to look at each diaphragm with a bright light behind it and see if there are ANY pin holes in it around outer edge (or any where). Do all 4 diaphragm sliders snap back all the way when pulled open with your finger, or do the hang up? Gary
  6. dingy
    Probably should run better than that. Could be a fuel feed problem, fuel filters, or pump issue. There are three filters. 1st is in fuel tank, screens around pickup tubes. 2nd is traditional filter near pump. 3rd is a screen in each carb just before float valve. How many turns are the carb idle mixture screws set at? Is air cleaner seated on carbs fully with air filter in and top on? Gary
  7. dingy
    Strip Poker huh? Was she trying to win or lose? Gary
  8. dingy
    My laptop offered my the choice of downloading an MS convertor to do that. Gary
  9. dingy
    That worked !! Gary
  10. dingy
    The rectangular thing is the CLASS fuse in 2nd picture, it has two fuses in it, one is a spare. Gary
  11. dingy
    Brian, Can you save your files as PDF, my laptop doesn't want to open your .doc files, says they are a newer version. I'm am still on XP, hate giving microsoft more money. Probably more than a few others like this. Gary
  12. dingy
    Pinwall is notorious for not replying to emails, If you call them, they will help you though. Text below is from their website. Gary Please, call us at 330-879-9910 with any questions or concerns about your part. Due to the volume of emails that we receive, emails CANNOT be answered.
  13. dingy
    I do have an 83 stock rim on the bike, which is what I am comparing the VMax rim to. Just have to see if I like it. I have one of Condors super fork braces on which has helped handling. Gary
  14. dingy
    If you just want to power a relay coil momentarily to flash the lights, use of the PTT switch will work. It won't work easily to power them up continuously. Gary
  15. dingy
    If carbs are still off bike look at post # 2 or 3. You start with #1 carb, #2 carb is fixed, #2 is the reference point that others are synched to. #2 is set with the idle speed screw, between #1 & #2, under cross bar. Not sure of the order between #3 & 4, having computer issues, I'm on my laptop without access to all my reference material. Gary
  16. dingy
    I measured outside width on the stock Venture rim and the VMax rim. Stock rim is 3.005" wide Vmax is 2.9005" wide That is .100" difference. I am going to use this thing, my sidewall profile is a 90, which gives the sidewall some more distance to flex in, as opposed to the 70 or 80's referred to. Gary
  17. dingy
    I am confused, I think you are referring to the idle mixture screw when you say you turned it in 3 turns. The idle mixture screw are on each carb body, just below diaphragm cover. The sync screws are on the throttle linkage between the 4 carbs. Gary
  18. dingy
    If you still have carbs off the bike you can get them close. Place a bright light under the carbs and adjust the sync screws until the throttle plate just closes in venturi. At this point the light shining up from bottom will dim considerably, you will see the difference. Adjust the carbs by the procedure that is used when running. OK Carl, you beat me this time !! Gary
  19. dingy
    You are gonna confuse Dan with algebra now, easy there !! Attached is a picture of what floor would look like if someone were to pour it correctly. Gary
  20. dingy
    Not really sure why it isn't on the chart, but the DOT 4 is compatible with DOT 3 applications, so material choices should match. Even if DOT 4 were usable with a wider range of materials, I would not use something that was not compatible with DOT 3. Potential next owner of a bike may go back to DOT 3. DOT 4 is easy to find, DOT 5 & 5.1 are not seen very often. Gary
  21. dingy
    You will get the best responses in the 2nd Gen Venture tech talk forum. The 1st & 2nd gens are quite different electrically, so the most knowledgeable people will see it there. Gary
  22. dingy
    Here is a more readable wiring diagram than the Service manual version. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42357 Two major differences between a 1st gen & 2nd gen are the 2nd Gen (RSV) has forward foot controls, the 1st has a more conventional pegs under rider. 2nd is the 1st gen has a frame mounted fairing, the 2nd gen went to a fork mounted fairing. They are very similar in general engine, drive train design. Gary
  23. dingy
    Attached is a fluid compatibility chart. The material has to be primary determining factor in the O-Ring selection. You can't use one that you find at a hardware store without be sure it won't degrade with brake fluid usage. It isn't going to show being bad in the garage, it going to blow out when you are applying the brakes at a most inopportune time. I have reused the original ones every time and never had a leaker. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/brakefluidchoice1.jpg
  24. dingy
    You do not have to use the front line port on the rear master. Simply take the valve parts out of the proportioning valve on the rear master, very easy to do. The brass colored part and the spring in picture get removed, this is proportioning valve that is on rear master. What you propose to do by running both lines to the master is doable. Another easy option is to get a VMax front splitter. they are on ebay often for about $10. This will mount to the fork lower triple tree easily. Look at your front master cylinder and see if there is 14mm on the casting, lower rear left side, should be on your bike. If there is, master will work. Gary
  25. dingy
    There are about 6 relays in that area of the bike. If you post the wire colors going into this relay I can tell you part number. I most likely have a spare one. Here is a thread with wiring schematics in it for your bike. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42358 This thread will show you how to clean and probably fix the headlight problem. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42433 Gary
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