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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    Starter solenoid circuit on the 1st gens has 12V+ applied to one wire when key is ON and kill switch is in Run position. The 12V- side is switched through the starter safety circuits. Put a ground from battery to the L/W wire with key on and Kill switch in run position. WITH THE TRANNY IN NEUTRAL, this will bypass safety circuits and bike will crank in gear. If solenoid does not click, it's toast. If it does click and no crank, it could still be toast. If motor cranks when you jump two heavy solenoid wires, time for a replacement solenoid. Hope I didn't repeat previous info, didn't read all the posts. Gary
  2. dingy
    PM me, I most likely have a spare solenoid laying around here. Cheap too. Gary
  3. dingy
    Ship them to me & I can ship to you for under $5. Gary
  4. dingy
    Here is a listing that is on ebay now. $75 four 4 kits shipped. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-VMX12-V-Max-Carburetor-Repair-Kits-VMX1200-VMAX-/380375065642?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item58901ee42a The VMax kit is identical to the MKI & MKII in so far as the parts in this kit. It consists of all the O-rings, fuel bowl shaped o-ring, jet block gasket and fuel level needle valve & seat. This is same one I used on a set of MKII carbs. Few pictures attached of dismantled set & some parts. Last picture is of assembled rack with choke linkage on carb rack instead of cable connected. Ultrasonic cleaned to death & Berryman carb cleaner from auto zone. Close to $500 to rebuild almost completely. I did not replace sliders, small diaphragms or choke plungers. Gary
  5. dingy
    PM MiCarl on this site. Ask him if kits he got for me are still avaliable. Had all o-rings, float valve & body, jet block gasket. I would suggest you also replace the pilot jet, 42.5mm, very hard to clean. Also get the choke body gasket. The rubber blocks on the bottom of the jet block can cause problems, even when they look ok. Partshark.com has all these. Gary
  6. dingy
    It's probably easier for you to tell us what kind of bike you have, rather than expecting anyone that may want to help to go looking in your profile for that info. Below is how to do it once and be done with it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58880 Gary
  7. dingy
    Final drive is not really gear dependent. Try snapping it hard into third and see if you notice it. Gary
  8. dingy
    Try it with someone else in the room sometime, besides the pygmies !!! Gary
  9. dingy
    Wo Hoo !!! Gary http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd403/SparklingRissa/Edits/Banner.jpg
  10. dingy
    I have a 14mm on mine with delinked brakes, R1 calipers. I can put full force on the lever with all four fingers and the closest lever gets near the pivot end is about 3/4". Going to a 5/8" master would cause a reduction in available maximum pressure applied to the calipers, though the volume would increase as compared to a 14mm (9/16" approx.) Against conventional teachings, I rarely use all four fingers on the front brake lever. I don't have to, the brakes are that good. I have never pinched a finger with this master, I use index and middle finger for braking, allowing little & ring finger to still control throttle. There are number of occasions where I will reach out and 'cover' the brake lever while still under throttle, especially when I see traffic that may do something unexpected. Gary
  11. dingy
    OK, this is sure to bring on the nay-sayers. I have towed and been around a few towed bikes and the best way I have ever seen it done is to strap the front end down below the upper fork tubes. Soft sided straps need to be used so tubes aren't marred. On a 1st gen, go just over fork cross brace. This allows the lower part of the forks to be tightened down as much as desired. The bike is then able to rebound using the front forks. There is little chance of a strap coming loose when a big bump is hit. The back end has always been done regular way, generally can't get straps in a position to be effective on rear. Gary
  12. dingy
    Tom, I know you gotta trust your doctors judgement, but unless you have skeletal injuries, xrays are not that useful. Try to talk your Dr. into at least a CT scan or better yet an MRI. Especially if your insured and Dr. can justify it to Ins.Co. Trust me, I know back injuries. When I was seven years old I was riding a pony, bareback, it rared up, lost it balance and fell over backwards will I was still straddle of it. I had a good sized animal fall right on top of me. Went to ER and they found nothing. I could barely walk for weeks from that one. When I was about 25, I had a bike wreck and crushed two vertebra like a pop can, one 15% & one 30%. Over the years, I have had a number of xrays, CT scans and an MRI or two. I still have several sets of the Xrays. Attached are a couple of pictures of my recent MRI. The MRI is like a stack of sheets of paper, the body can be looked at at many points & different angles. Also soft tissues are very visible. In an Xray, soft tissue is almost indistinguishable. Between the 4 & 5 vertebra in these two of many shots, the bulging discs stands out like a beacon. In first one there is bulge visible between 3 & 4th. Gary
  13. dingy
    Why don't you build the garage at 38'-4" long x 18'-0" wide? This would be a square rectangle that would fit inside the catywompus polygon slab that you have. Set back one end the 11 1/4" it is out and set the other end back the 9 9/16" it is out. See post #324 Ya, the hanging triangle slabs on the end are going to look wierd, but that is where creative mulching will come in. Let somebody moan about it at the estate auction. If you don't quit worrying and mulling this, it will be a slab in the estate sale. This is based on the idea that the two 40' sides are parallel within reason. Gary
  14. dingy
    Fuel pump response is normal, it will only run (click) for 4 seconds without a spark signal from the #2 TCI coil output. This is a safety circuit to shut off fuel flow in case of wreck. Sometimes you need to cycle key a couple of times to fill bowls. How fresh is gas? Check fuel flow at filter by disconnecting line & turning key on. There is another filter in the gas tank that could be clogged, (it has happened.) Gary
  15. dingy
    To check the float level on the bike, put it on center stand first. Get a piece of clear vinyl tubing that will just fit over the four rubber tubes that come out of rear of carb and pass through the lower cross brace. (about 1/4" dia, maybe 5/16") Turn the key on to make sure fuel pump fills carb bowls completely. Repeat until fuel pump no longer clicks. (2 or 3 times maybe). Turn key off. One at a time put clear tube over black tube and open the bowl drain screw. Hold the clear tube so top is above the top of carb. Fuel should fill the clear tube to about the center line of the diaphragm cavity. Close drain screw and check other three carbs. Check service manual for more accurate height setting, but this is close. Gary
  16. dingy
    No YICS system on an 88, last year for that was 85 I think. Compression check on cylinders may be helpful, will obviously be a cold reading, but they should be near equal. Gary
  17. dingy
    They will work, kinda of. The 83-85 had 34mm carbs, 117.5 main jets, 42.5 pilot jet. The 86-93 had 35mm carbs, 125 mains jets. 37.5 pilot jet. Externally the 84 & 88 carbs are identical. If they are in usable shape, they will run the bike, though not to its full potential. Putting another set of carbs on the bike may narrow down the cause of your problems, assuming bike runs well with the 84 set. It does not address why a set of carbs that have been rebuilt properly do not run the bike. There are a number of things that have been suggested in the course of this thread that you have not responded to as far as your findings or corrective actions. Without this feedback, we are hampered with helping with a course of action. You are far from the first to have this happen, but there can be more than one contributing cause. Without each item being responded to, it is hard for us to help you. There have been two of the top mechanics on this site for the 1st gens (MiCarl & Skydoc_17) make suggestions to pursue. Gary
  18. dingy
    To clarify, R1, HH and MKII's would have made life better. All the above & delinking would make it grand. Jack, you have quite a few good Ventures, and an RSV. Have you actually ridden a 1st gen with delinked brakes to any extent? I don't really think trike or sidecar would make a lot of difference being delinked. Not much chance of the front wheel sliding out from under you on either one. Gary
  19. dingy
    But they have 5 separate listings for this. They will probably combine shipping and save you tons of money. Gary
  20. dingy
    Dan, Try to get along with our fowl named brethren. Next thing, you will be arguing with Penguin or Peacock. And delinked brakes are certainly on of those love them or dumb idea topics, right up there with the darksiders and headlight modulators. And I do not mean this to be degrading to anyone that likes them, but I think the more experienced riders would see a difference if they were to ride to similar 1st gens in the course of a day. One linked and one delinked. I just prefer to have the best brakes I can have, as opposed to an adequate set. I also don't think that linked brakes were a very large manufacturing expense. Only real difference is the metering & proportioning valves, probably under $20 initial manufacturer cost. Trivial when compared to faux finned side covers or a digital dash. Quite similar to the anti-dive valve system, an experiment that never really panned out. Gary
  21. dingy
    An 83 TCI can only be used on an 83 set of carbs due to vacuum port above throttle plates. Any 83-89 bike can use a TCI from 84-89. On an 83, you plug the port above the carbs and use a vacuum source from an intake manifold. Gary
  22. dingy
    You should have ordered TWO. Gary
  23. dingy
    The discussion going on only is pertaining to Linked Vs Delinked brakes on 1st gen bikes. Delinking includes severing the rear rotor/left front rotor conection and ties the two front rotors together, both operated from front master. Delinking the brakes should only be done if you are mechanically skilled. Delinking will signifigantly alter bikes braking charictaristics. Some like it, some don't want to try it. DO NOT remove proportioning or metering valves on a stock setup. Gary
  24. dingy
    Why didn't they make it to the RSV's then if they are that good? Gary
  25. dingy
    Difference between stopping reasonably well, and stopping to its maximum ability may allow you to see the next sunrise. Gary
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