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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    I am not saying not to install the zerk, just that it is not something I would do. These are sealed bearings if Yamaha original p/n used. If you raise the nose and can feel notcheyness in the bearings, you are about 5,000 miles past when they should have been replaced if you push the bike in corners much. That level of wear will affect handling adversely. IMHO. Gary
  2. dingy
    Brian, Found the spare hazard switch for the 89 bike & starting circuit relay (41R). If you find you don't need them before tomorrow night let me know, otherwise I will get them sent to you priority mail Monday morning. Gary
  3. dingy
    Here is a thread detailing how to disassemble and clean the throttle side switch on your bike. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42433 Gary
  4. dingy
    The hazard switch/cable is the first thing I see in the schematic that ties the turn signals & hazard circuits together. The flasher circuits are in the 41R relay, about the size of a pack of smokes, black with about a 9 wire connector going into it, in headlight bucket area. The headlight is powered through the dash monitor. The things that may be causing a problem there is the reserve lighting unit going bad or the dimmer switch dirty. When I talked to you earlier, you said your tail & running lights were OK, and they also go through the dash monitor. Are your meter lights working, these are powered by the same circuit that powers the reserve lighting unit then the headlights. Gary
  5. dingy
    User CP, then Paid Subscriptions Looked at mine, appears like I am about to get cut off. Gary
  6. dingy
    Wheel bearing grease would be my choice for this. It will never see the temps. that a wheel bearing does though. Fairly sure some guys use just regular grease on them. Lithium soap based cartridge stuff. I am not a believer in the zerk fitting idea, doesn't seem like it would help top bearing out much, and that is a lot of grease to clean out when you decide to check the bearings again. Gary
  7. dingy
    Have you gotten the lower bearing off the triple tree stem yet. Heating that one may help to drop it on. Then you could pack it after it is on stem. I am assuming you have lower tree off bike. Send wife out shopping and put it in freezer to shrink it as well. Get an aluminum pie pan and put bearing in it. Also consider smell put out from grease when heated. Top one does not need heated. It is a drop in. Gary
  8. dingy
    I sent an email to the guys that might have one, to let them know you are looking. There are a number of them that have 83 bikes & that TCI will not work correctly on yours. Also the VMax guys that are in on this have a different programming in the stock TCI, would probably work, but not great. Actually, looking at my list there are only 4 VR guys that have an 84-89 which is what you need. Problem may be that the TCI is a chore to get off bike due to where it is, and until people get confidence in this TCI they may leave the old one on as a backup. Also I can still get you an Ignitech unit if it gets to that point. Gary
  9. dingy
    Yupper, but it was still better than IE8 Gary
  10. dingy
    I have had issues in past & been told to clear cookies, which is a PIA, cause you loose some stuff you want. And to delete browsing history. Don just helped me & convinced me to upgrade to latest version of firefox cause my search engine did not work right with older version I was using. Gary
  11. dingy
    Talked to Brian on phone, I think he may be moving again. Gary
  12. dingy
    Few pictures of the gas sniffer ports on the 1st gens attached. ID of the hole with the screw removed is a tad over .190" Gary
  13. dingy
    The shrouds purpose seems to be to direct a thin layer of air right across the valve covers, and if I remember it opens up at the back side of the front head. Then restart on the rear head. Attached are a few pictures of them and the YCIS baffle. It is extra weight, get rid of it. Your not going to fry your tush off if these shrouds go away. As far as my motor, it is a lower end out of a 88 Venture 1300cc, VMaxs never came with a 1300, better pistons in the VMaxs though. This block has been modified by milling .040" at head face surface, raised compression from about 10.5:1 to about 12.2:1. Also completely rebuilt, every rubber item replaced this winter in it. The top end from the air cleaner all through to the heads is stock VMax. The carbs are off a Venture but have been rebuilt with VMax jetting & choke linkages, 35mm mikunis. The VMax emblem below the carbs is after market. As far as appearance, it has about 2 cans of elbow grease in it to look like that. Gary
  14. dingy
    Here are some pictures I have of the case in that area. These pictures do not show every thing bolted together in most cases, reference only. Gary
  15. dingy
    This is an HD Road Glide backrest I McGyvered onto my 83. Still the best thing I have done for comfort to the scooter. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49041 Gary
  16. dingy
    Iridium NGK @ .032" Bike starts within a couple revolutions with half choke when cold. Ran them 6,000 miles last year and gap was unchanged when pulled out. Last year was with stock coils. This year is with Coil Over Plugs, so it will be interesting to see if that changes gap any. I will be pulling plugs this weekend to inspect due to jetting issues, which are not a suprise really. I sort of threw a dart when I rebuilt 35mm carbs over the winter as to jet sizing. I am running rich, almost for sure. Used a VMax stage 1 jet kit. Gary
  17. dingy
    If the water pump bearing is the cause of the noise, there is the possibility that the contact between the ceramic face seal and the carbibe lip in the water pump may allow oil & coolant to mix. This may not happen if the shaft does not deviate much from intended center line. But if there is oil/coolant crossover, that would narrow it down quite a bit. Gary
  18. dingy
    Prayers are with you & Eileen, Don. Caring for an ill loved one is a very trying situation for anyone. Gary
  19. dingy
    Here is a picture of rear one, can't find a picture that shows the front one, probably more like 3" ahead of collector. Gary
  20. dingy
    The 1st gens have a port on each exhaust header. The front ones are about 6-8" ahead of collector on lower outboard side. The rears are just past the clamp that connects down pipe to extension from rear head. #10 mm metric head. Be gentle they can be twisted off, but then no harm no foul, threaded portion still keeps hole closed. Gary
  21. dingy
    Good grief charlie brown.... Air deflectors, closed off side covers, next you will be wanting air conditioning. Grow a set !! OK, slap me, I'm just kidding. Yes the scooter is a little warmer when sitting at a light or whatever. But it does look nice. Hopefully this winter I will get plastic painted as bright a yellow as I can find. Canary #800 is a good start. 2nd picture is the hardley view before 2nd gear. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/DSC02369s.jpg http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/DSC02374s.jpg
  22. dingy
    I had a doctor ask me once what kind of exercise I got. I told him I get out and ride my 5 speed bike every night. He said that was good. Then I exlained about the 1 down & 4 up - 5 speed bike. He did get a chuckle. Gary
  23. dingy
    Sent you a PM. Gary
  24. dingy
    There ya are. Gary
  25. dingy
    The shroud is an air deflector. I should be able to be pushed up and out of the way to reach plugs. It slips over valve cover bolts. Gary
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