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dingy

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  1. dingy

    Computer help

    dingy replied to Bubber's topic in Watering Hole

    How many documents you have, or is this an ongoing thing. If you don't have a DVD full of 10,000 of them I could lock some down with the version of Adobe I have. It would turn them into a PDF format, can lock out standard printing and even require a password to open. Screen shot of security settings below. But as mentioned, if it is on my monitor, I can copy it, don't care what it is. It's even built into windows 7 now, called a snipping tool. Though if it is copied this way it is a picture, not editable text. Gary
  2. dingy
    Remind me, when you wear those bearings out, I will sell you wrench at today's price and waive any possible future increases. The place I get them raises the price every other order on me. Gary
  3. dingy
    And I will help you as much as possible in the endeavor, they are multi purpose tools. And have a convenient hole in the end for a nice necklace to go through. More Yamaha bling !! Gary
  4. dingy
    They are still available for that next set of bearings. And I have had them take up 3 weeks for Canadian addresses, so order soon, order often. Gary
  5. dingy
    When you have CMU head apart, there is an rubberized type connector that connects the LCD screen to the main body. Clean both sides of this contact with rubbing alcohol. Gary
  6. dingy
    I am not aware of a CLASS equipped bike having schrader valves in a stock configuration. Someone may have modified it due to CLASS not working & bypassed compressor system. The compressor is under trunk, remove trunk and cargo rack, then plastic compressor cover and see if lines have been disconnected. Gary
  7. dingy
    I have pushed an 83 chassis about as hard as you can with no issues. It is an uncommon event. It can be corrected and inspected for. It would be rare that it caused a catastrophic failure. The 83 is a little unique among the early Ventures. Some small differences, but nothing that is a show stopper. If you want a large bike, frame mounted fairing with standard foot pegs this is a good choice. Gary
  8. dingy
    Set fuel cock lever to off position and unhook fuel line if you want to move it very far. Gary
  9. dingy
    I know you said you weren't good with schematics, but here are some basic views of a few switch configurations. These are only a few very basic switches, but a good place to start. Picture below shows several switches in different configurations. Left side is a SPST (single pole single throw, means single set of contacts, only conducts in one position), top is shown open, bottom is shown closed. Middle is a SPDT (single pole double throw, means single set of contacts, conducts in one position or the other position), top is shown one way, bottom is shown switch flipped. Right side is a SPST lighted switch, both upper and lower views are shown with the switch in the open position. The difference between the upper & lower views is the operation of the light inside the switch. Top view shown such that light will only be on when switch is flipped & in the closed position. Lower view is shown with the light being illuminated whenever power is supplied to switch, irregardless of position. This might be desired for ease of locating some switch at night. Sorry for the crappy information in my first post Kids, there, that didn't hurt at all. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/switches1.jpg
  10. dingy
    Three connector pins have a light built into switch. Depending on how you wire them, either switch can be lit all the time or only when turned on. Gary
  11. dingy
    I just had to fiddle with mine due to a slow return of the throttle. One reason is due to the Vboost the carbs are 3/4" higher and the pull cable is against the frame. But I found two other places that had issues. One was the pull cable at the throttle was frayed, replaced it. Other was a misalignment of the cables into the junction box. This one seemed to clear up the slow return the most. Also, verify cruise portion of junction box is reassembled correct, it would be easy to assemble wrong. Gary
  12. dingy
    The intake o-rings are 45mm x 2mm Maybe you can find them locally. One of my motors had permatex along with the o-ring and it seemed to work, not recommending it, just mentioning. Do what you will with this nugget of info. You won't find it in the owners manual. Gary
  13. dingy
    Attached is an NGK plug reference chart. Gary
  14. dingy
    I'm sorry, I passed 7th grade reading comprehension. Two pictures linked from 2002 RSV service manual. 1st Picture "The main fuse box..." 1st picture "Fuse box 1 is located..." 2nd picture "Fuse box 2 is located..." Granted, Yamaha has a strange numbering designation, but 2nd grade math was 1+1+1=3 I think your pea stream is a little short here. Gary
  15. dingy
    You are so correct. The owner's manual clearly identifies All THREE fuse box locations, both with descriptions and pictures. One behind panel A, one behind panel B and one behind panel C. Correcting wrong information is always helpful. Heard this somewhere else, seems like. There are those rare moments when I wish I had an RSV, just to be on top of this info. Gary
  16. dingy
    I have some spare coils you can have for price of shipping. Gary
  17. dingy
    Being helpful was what Darthandy posted in #5. Being a troll is what you posted in #4. Your turn. Gary
  18. dingy
    That was VERY helpful information. Gary
  19. dingy
    Below is a response I posted on VMax site in regards to using stock boost sensor. If someone could make some voltage checks on a stock boost sensor and see if its output ever exceeds 5vdc, it may be possible to use the stock unit. The stock booster is a 12vdc based system. If someone could check a couple of things with a meter, there is a chance they can be made to work. What I need to know is does the stock boost sensor ever put out a voltage of more than 5VDC. Is the voltage output at a given RPM & load like idling steady when the battery voltage changes. This could be checked by reading the output voltage of stock sensor then turning on all the accessories on the bike like lights, running lights whatever. If the out put voltage varies then it is not a good candidate to use. The Ignitech module only has a window of voltage that it can read from 0vdc to 5vdc on the TPS input. I have attached a picture showing the high and low range that is settable. The procedure to set the TPS output is to have unit hooked up, bike warmed up and idleing. On the Miscellaneous tab there are two Voltage modifiable setting points. You run the 0% TPS number up to the lowest voltage that the Bar sensor puts out. Then by cracking the throttle and seeing what the highest voltage output is the upper range is run down to this number. With these to numbers set somewhat close to actual output, the TCI then is able to calculate and use the full spectrum of the bar output. In the Misc screen on the right side, there is a TP=--% field. This field will show the percentage of bar output when bike is hooked up to TCI. In the ignitech module there is a 5vdc regulated power supply, this is used to drive the General Motors style 1 bar senor that we have been using. Actually, Ignitech assumes the a Throttle position sensor (TPS) will be used. The TPS is not a good indicator of load on the motor as a Bar sensor is though. Plus mounting a TPS is much more complicated to do. I have on, and was considering at one time mounting it to the crossover bar between the right & left carb banks, but decided to go with the bar sensor. Another advantage of the Ignitech TCI is that it has a variable dwell setting that can be used when COP's are used to compensate for the lower primary coil resistance. This setting is on the Misc. tab, left center block titled Dwell, I have it set to manual in this view, so some other options for settings are displayed. The Ignitech software, manual, stock IGN file & IGN file I am running are attached in the zip file below. You can run the 110523a_tcip4A_v80.exe file and see the programs ability. It will run fine without being hooked to a TCI. When program is running, load either the stock IGN file or my IGN file via the file open command. There are a number of other options that are discussed in the manual that is attached below. The files in the attached Zip file are: 110523a_tcip4A_v80.exe - software programming module manual_sparker_tcip4_v80_en.pdf - Ignitechs supplied manual v-max old venture.ign - Ignitechs supplied timing IGN file GDD V80 map.ign - IGN file as I ran it last year Below are links to 3 videos did whhile experimenting with the Bar sensor. They show the Advance screen and the effect that putting a small vacuum canister in the line achieved. These were taken last year when I was using the prior version of the TCI, Version 75. I just got my new module (V80) Friday and haven't got it in yet. Any TCI's purchased will be the V80 units. I tied all 4 vacuum ports together when I was using canister. First one shows the TPS value varying without the canister installed. Second one shows how canister smoothed out TPS value. Third is showing RPM's being varied. Gary
  20. dingy
    The Throttle Position Sensor is what the Ignitech was designed for. For those that don't know, The TPS is just a variable resistor device that is hooked to either the throttle cable system or the carb linkage to determine the amount the carb butterflies are open. It is a much more difficult task to mount a TPS to a bike that doesn't have one. On the Venture, it could possibly be attached to the crossover bar that connects the right & left carb banks with a suitable bracket. The Bar sensor mimics the TPS's output but this output is based on motor vacuum instead of throttle position. The bar sensor, in my opinion, is a better benchmark of the demand be placed on the motor at any given moment. The motor will have a different need for advance when you are cruising along at half throttle, than from a stop where you are under an acceleration mode up to the half throttle position. The bar sensor will output a higher voltage while the motor is accelerating, thus able to advance timing. The TPS is going to read the same under both different conditions and apply the same advance to both. The TCI will also read RPM change and adjust timing accordingly. In this case picture a bike that is accelerating gently as opposed to a take off where there is rapid acceleration. Each has a different advance need based on load on motor. Gary
  21. dingy
    I am checking to see if there would be enough interest from members to make it feasible for me to buy about 10 (or more) of the Ignitech TCIP4 V80 TCI ignition modules. These units would be a 30 minute or less job to install & be riding with. I would get these units from Ignitech, pre-load a Venture program setup with mileage and performance balanced. The adapter harness would include the wiring for the pressure sensor that the TCI uses. The stock Venture boost sensor is not compatible with the Ignitech unit & can't be used. I would supply either a brand new boost sensor or one from a auto recycler, the second option being much more economical & would be fully tested by me. I will be able to supply unit in either 83-89, 4 pickup coils or 90-93, 1 pickup coil versions . Ignitech Site link: http://www.ignitech.cz/english/aindex.htm I can get these units and resell them with a gently used boost sensor, fully tested and ready to go for $225 US plus shipping. If a new boost sensor is wanted the cost would increase by about $50 (subject to change). I would need a partial prepayment in order to finance this. Balance of payment due when ready to ship by me. Turn around time would be about 2 weeks. It would take me about a week to get TCI's and some time to wire & test them. And being upfront about it, this is about $25 less than the unit can be purchased from Ignitech and the cost of a used boost sensor factored in. All that would be needed by user to utilize this unit would be to unplug the 2 cables from the existing TCI & plug them into the adapter harness. Then mount the TCI, which is slightly larger than a pack of smokes & mount the boost sensor. Connect the hose from the #2 intake boot to the boost sensor. Mounting of TCI can be on air box lid or left radio pocket. The TCI can be hooked up to a laptop that either has a com port or one with a USB port & an adapter that will be made available. It will not be necessary to have a laptop hookup if you do not desire to modify the program I would load in it. With the use of a laptop connection, the user can customize settings as desired. The Ignitech thread is located at link below, there is a lot of info in it. I will supply an electronic manual with the TCI. I will also put on the CD any useful info I have collected while using this unit. Each CD will have additional info such as bike wiring schematics and other items not supplied by Ignitech. The Ignitech manual, TCIP4 program and initial module program will also be included. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40414 1st picture shows the TCI, wiring harness, a used pressure sensor and the software CD. Also are extra pins Ignitech supplies if user wants to add other non-utilized features of TCI, such as fuel pump relay control, shift light, inputs for shut off features. 2nd picture shows an boost sensor. 3rd picture shows end view of TCI 4th picture shows adapter harness with boost sensor leads. 5th picture shows Miscellaneous settings screen 6th picture shows Bike settings screen 7th picture shows 2D advance map example, would be different in supplied format. 8th picture shows 3D advance map example, would be different in supplied format. Last picture shows test screen. Gary
  22. dingy
    If you have to little tension on the right side screws it can not pull #2 closed fully and there is nothing that will close it in the way of adjusting the left side screw, throttle screw or cables. I just experienced this same scenario this week, with the carbs on the workbench. When I was bench setting them, same symptoms you are having with no cables hooked up at all. And I even just went out in garage and duplicated the #2 holding open with too little tension on #3 and/or #4. Had to snap throttles open to see #2 hold open, it wasn't forced open just not enough spring pressure to close it. By running 3 & 4 in a little more #2 pulled closed. Gary
  23. dingy
    I have acquired a replacement for the plug in connector at the stator (generator, alternator, magneto etc.) These are a direct replacement for what is on the 1st gen bike from the factory. Not sure about the RSV's. General recommendation is to eliminate this connection, I am aware of that. However, I prefer to have mine unplug-able. The connection is a problem if the pins become corroded or fatigued with age. A new replacement set will be good for a long time if soldered in place. This is a direct replacement for the existing plug so it is possible to only replace one side of connection if desired, not recommended. A set of these is $12.00 including US & Canada first class shipping. This includes the male & female side of the plug and 3 each male & female connector pins. From experience, Canadian postal service takes at least 10 days and at times 20 or more. Picture shows several sets of connectors, so they can be seen from different sides. Paypal is gary(at)dinges.com replace (at) with @ They will also be in classifieds. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/DSC02347.jpg
  24. dingy
    This picture may help, note the model # in upper right corner. Numbers & letters show where wires & traces are coming to around board. I can email a higher resolution picture if it would help. PM me address. Gary
  25. dingy
    This should fix it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43027 Gary
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