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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    Did you by any chance put 12v directly to the battery probe wire. You don't need to answer. But if you did, you allowed the factory supplied smoke to escape from the CMU. Your assessment that you need a new CMU is very accurate, should the above guess have actually happened. Gary
  2. dingy
    The good news is you know where the fuse is at, the bad news is something made it blow, and only the fan & thermostat is on this circuit, so you probably still have an issue. The 'pulsing' could have been due to the low coolant level. The water pump may be at the point of just getting enough water to be effective, as soon as it pumps some water, then it runs out again till that water cycles back through radiator. This would happen rapidly, but could cause the pulsing. Gary
  3. dingy
    Any mechanical/electrical component can fail. Is the failure a complete type failure or are they flickering? By this I mean do they go out for a period of time then pop back on. Does cycling the switch have any effect on lights when failing? The switch light is probably not going out when the lights go out, am I correct. Do yo know if the switch has three wires going to it. If it does, then one of these wires is a ground to make the switch indicator light function. What happens downstream in the circuit won't then show up at this indicator light. If the failure is intermittent, I would suspect some connection past the switch, assuming indicator light is consistent. Reason being, I have opened up the common auto style relay, and it would seem if this device were to fail it would be a permanent type failure. Did you solder the connections or use a crimp type connections? Try wiggling each wire and connection while observing the lamp, if one makes it flicker, it needs attention. Gary
  4. dingy
    There is a second fuse block on the MKII bike. It has ATC style fuses. But, I don't know where it is at. I barely remember where stuff was supposed to be on my MKI, which doesn't have this fuse block. The fan fuse is in this 2nd block. The pulsing you mention seeing in the hose is interesting. I don't know what would cause pulsing other than a blown head gasket. The water pump should be a smooth flow, no pulsing. Gary
  5. dingy
    The Yellow and Red w/Yellow stripe is the high beam indicator. The Blue and Green wire is probably the RLU bulb. 1st two are related to the RLU/headlight not plugged in. The Blue with Brown wire socket is probably the Neutral light. This would probably not be related to 1st two, does indicator on dash show all the gears as you cycle through them? If it does, then I would suspect the diode pack is malfunctioning. This is a black item about 1" square and 3/8" thick. It has 5 wires coming out of it hooking up to a 6pin (2x3 layout) connector. Located on left side of frame somewhat ahead of starter solenoid. Check the connectors on it. Gary
  6. dingy
    I also have a spare CMU that might be easier to get to you since you are in US and Brian is in Canada. Not really looking to get rid of it, but will loan it to you to test your system. It will fit in small priority box, shipping time 3 days. It is also untested, but came from a working bike from a reputable seller on ebay. If you are testing the bulbs with only part of the wiring system hooked up, that could be part of the problem. The RLU is going to be hard to predict how it works with some of the wiring not present. The CMU is going to give warnings without the RLU functioning properly. Gary
  7. dingy
    From some of the past experiences dealing with the TCI's and related diode failure, it has been the general feeling that once the diodes fail completely, they take out other parts of the system & the TCI is beyond repair. Since this is a TCI & not a CDI, my thought is the lower voltage cap will suffice. Another option if this does not work for you is the Ignitech aftermarket TCI. Link is below. I am very glad I went to this unit. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40414 Gary
  8. dingy
    The easiest way to wire in a bypass switch would be to do it at the thermostat switch itself. This is the larger brass body switch in my 1st post that red arrow pointing to connections. All you need to do is install a switch between the two wires going into this thermostat. This circuit already is protected by its own fuse. No need for a relay. From schematic these should be a one brown & and one blue wire. All the thermostat does is short these two wires together, a switch will do the same thing. I would not eliminate this thermostat from circuit. To test the fan, turn key to on position, and connect a jumper between the two wires on this thermostat. The fan should start to run. If does not, then connect a jumper from the blue wire to the positive battery post. If it does run, then possibly a bad fuse. If it still doesn't run You can go to the two pin connector coming out of the fan itself. You will need to put two jumpers on this on, one positive & one negative, for a test and with connector apart, it doesn't matter on polarity to fan. You said this switch was loose, but not leaking which is concerning. As mentioned earlier, a bad radiator cap could be possible, but another item would be a failed or bad condition water pump. Are you needing to add coolant to the system often? How full is the overflow bottle? Do you ever see coolant on ground under bike? Gary
  9. dingy
    It is near impossible to tell from a schematic how grounds are shared normally. In the cluster head though it may be possible to accurately guess at them due to the confined area. The 4 dash bulbs & the temp & volt meter appear to share a common ground circuit. The cruise speedometer sensor also appears to be on this ground wire. This sensor is also utilized in the turn signal self canceling circuit. There is also a line going into the tach from this ground wire. Also, the two turn signal indicators and the cruise indicator light are on this common ground. There are three light circuits in the cluster that are independent of this ground, first is the neutral/gear position indicator. This circuit has a ground path that starts at the switch. The reserve pilot light & the High beam also both originate from the reserve lighting module (RSL). The reserve & high beam indicator appear to share a common ground at the the RSL. If the neutral light is involved, it could be the diode pack has issues. If you would post which bulbs are having problems, it will help me narrow down a cause/solution possibly. Also do you have a gear position indicator in the CMU? Gary
  10. dingy
    Not sure if this is what you are asking but here goes. A stock setup does not have a fan switch, a switch that can be operated by the rider. On the right front side is a 'Joint' yes that's the official name. It is a housing where the upper radiator hose, both hoses to the heads, a hose to the twinkie, all connect, and the two thermostats reside. One of these thermostats operates the temp. gauge, it is a variable resistance type of sensor.The other controls the fan, this one closes it's contact at a preset temperature to start the fan. If either of these two are loose, you should be leaking coolant. Picture attached of this housing. Some riders are concerned about the indication on the temp gauge and have wanted to install a manual fan activation switch, there may be other reasons they have done this also. Gary
  11. dingy
    When you say the clutch cover, I am 100% sure outer cover will fit on MKII or MKI motors. That I have done. The MKII cover can be used on either motor. The MKI can only be used on the MKI motor due to the wider clutch stack up on the MKII. The internals of the clutch have the same primary driven gear, or what I would call the 'Basket' part number. The clutch boss and pressure plates are different. The friction discs & steel plates are the same. The interface part between the long clutch push rod and the pressure plate is different. While you are into it, whichever path you choose, it would be a good idea to get rid of the half width friction disc, one of the full size extra plates can be used in place of it. Reason I say go with the MKII style clutch is there are at least two options for increasing the clutch 'grab' with this system from stock. First is the PCW upgrade, Skydoc17 sells them in classifieds, in the Member Vendor section. Then if you need more, you can double up on the diaphragm spring plate, you are not going to slip with this option. Gary
  12. dingy
    Clutch plates and friction disc came be swapped out. The 86 used a diaphram spring in the clutch. The 83 uses 6 helical springs. Pressure plate is different. My choice was to use the 86 style. It is easier to beef up the diagphram type spring than it is the helical spring style. If you do go to the 86 style you have to change the outer clutch case cover. It is about a 1/2" deeper to accommodate the 86 style clutch. Unless the 86 is trashed, it would be a more powerful motor than he 83, 100 more CC's. Most every thing except pistons & rods can be interchanged. Carbs are a little different on 86, but I ran my 1300 all last summer on a set of 1200 carbs. Gary
  13. dingy
    One thing I see to ask about is the driver backrest. The mounts are there for it. This will make a nice bike with a little work. Gary
  14. dingy
    It would seem more logical (per Mr. Spock) to put the grooved pad on the side that doesn't wear down as fast. Reason being the grooved pad has less wearing surface and will wear faster than an equal sized pad without grooves. Gary
  15. dingy
    What did you use to tint it with? I bought a new one for scooter this winter & this would make a nice change to the old one. Gary
  16. dingy
    This is one that Snaggletooth posted about a while back. The permanent fix is to splice a 12 gauge wire into the wiring between the rectifier plug and rectifier body and run this to a 40 amp fuse on the positive side then to the positive battery terminal. Negative side doesn't need a fuse. The regulator/rectifier has two red and two black wires coming out of it. Tie the two reds together to the line to the fuse at the battery and tie the two blacks together to the negative post. This will eliminate the small wiring in the harness and also avoid any crimp connections buried on the harness. I got a piece of two conductor 12 gauge without ground stranded cord at my hardware store for this. Sort of like heavy lamp cord, Has a black heavy, round outer insulation. Also got a heavy ATC fuse connector at O'riely's Auto Parts and 40 amp fuse. Gary
  17. dingy
    Has there been any comparisons done to a 1st gens braking distance with & without the linked brake system. I don't believe that an experienced rider could stop a linked brake system in equal or less distance than a delinked system. The majority of the braking power is in the front brakes. Having both front calipers under control of one master cylinder seems to give an experienced rider more control. I do agree for less experienced riders the linked system may have its benefits. It also has it's inherent downfalls for a lesser experienced rider. There are times I don't want to use the front brake (gravel roads, wet slick intersections) but you always have to use a front brake with a linked system. Gary
  18. dingy
    2 and 4 brush starters have different brushes, not interchangeable. One way I think I have found to tell a 2 brush from a 4 brush on the outside is the winding screws that are only present in the 2 brush starters. In the 4 brush starters the windings are epoxied in place. Attached picture shows a 2 brush starter on top and the housing from a 4 brush starter below. The screw I am referring to is the one below & to right of 12V terminal on top starter. There are 4 of these around the mid line, one in each coil. 1990 & newer VMax's have the 4 brush starters in them. Gary
  19. dingy
    Bite me and go for it. There is always the PM option. Gary
  20. dingy
    It really wasn't my upgrade it was Snag's. I just refined it a tad & took pictures. I am the self proclaimed 1st gen picture fairy. Gary http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46890
  21. dingy
    Can you get the top bolt out without removing tank? I haven't tried it with tank on, you may be able to reach in there though. Had the bike stripped all the way down when I replaced it and thought it had to come off. As I look at the second picture I posted, you are right. The tank would set on the two rubber pads just above the shock top. My bad. I edited my previous post, I hope he isn't out in garage pulling sub frame out right now !! Gary
  22. dingy
    Sorry Ruffy. I have never had to do it. Was going to do it this weekend but I decided mine were in good enough shape and put it back together with the old ones. I have a new set of OEM head bearings for sale now. It seems like it would take an arbor press to accomplish. Gary
  23. dingy
    Attached is a YouTube video I did related to the TCI. You can hear what it sounds like with a stock set of gutted mufflers on a 1st gen. I thank God almost every time I start it that it doesn't sound like a Harley. Gary
  24. dingy
    Here are some pictures of the rear shock assy on an 83 bike. The shock setup is from an 88 donor bike. You wouldn't need to remove the swing arm to replace shock. Another picture of some grease zerts that were installed. There are 6 total on swing arm now. There is a write up in tech section on doing this. I didn't follow it exactly though. Gary
  25. dingy
    It can be. What would need to be done is to support the front end so that when the fork caps are removed, the forks springs are not 'ejected' due to the weight on the front end. Attached are a couple of pictures as bike is sitting right now. I pulled wheel and forks off bike like that. It is fairly stable. 2x6 is right at 14" long, this cleared front wheel from ground and allowed rear wheel to not contact. I have a 15" VMax rim on rear end, so you may need to shorten board slightly to keep 16" wheel from hitting. I used a jack under frame to raise front up. Center stand is supporting weight of bike. I think this is doable with pipes & radiator on, but may not be. 2 x 6 is on the removable frame cross brace. Pipes & radiator just haven't been put back on yet due to motor work. They do not have to be removed to work on forks. Gary
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